Perfectly legal.

Correct, that would not be allowed.

Looks good. I really need to get up there for one of the NNJR locals now that we don't have FedEx anymore.

 

You doing the tour, John?

 

Assuming I can get in, yes.

 

I did diff bushings in my car after some wonderful missed shifts at Summit Point and VIR and just generally crappy driveline feel even with poly motor mounts.

The guide here worked well for being lazy and not dropping the diff: https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-di...cement-264285/

Apparently not a problem, haha.

 

Other than the usual MSR slowness, yeah, no issue.

Looks like I need to find a co-driver.

 

I’d recommend the rear subframe mounts too, not quite as simple of a job though ...

 

Yeah..... Ugh. My car is reasonably low mileage but still. I'd need to bug someone to make delrin mounts or something and deal with the NVH too. Not sure it's worth it for a "not seriously prepped" car, tbh. I've purchased all but two things for my car prep from amazon/walmart/ebay, so... (shocks and camber bushings were not, haha) I wonder if I could just fill the stock bushing voids with poly like the inserts that Whiteline sells for the Twins.

Might be a next winter job. I might do an OS Giken too, my stock diff is functional but they're just not very good.

 

A few RX-8s at the Las Vegas Champ Tour this weekend! Good luck to them

 

nice shots, those tires are about to pop off those wheels ;-). What tires are you running, seems like a lot of sidewall squirm?

 

it’s a good thing that wasn’t your fastest time with all that space/time off the cones

 

Turns out my diff is broken so I ended up having to run the tour like a Formula D practice. Hoping to make this up at the next tour.

 

Yokohama A052. They do have a lot of squirm.



Boo. Was wondering what the deal was. Lots of classes seem to have weird results and Scroggs did Scroggs things. Sadly, I'm in a similar boat. I think my diff is "broken" in the sense that it doesn't lock up for ****, I think an OS Giken is coming next winter but we'll see. I'll need to chat with Lugod to sort out the tuning so it behaves like my ND diff.

 

Anyone know what "normal" coolant temp is in an autocross run? I'm seeing 212-216F in 70-75F ambient temps with the OEM sensor at the end of a 55-60 second run, but I don't know how that compares to the Racing Beat gauge adapter that a lot of folks use. I saw ~221F momentarily when really pushing hard at VIR, but going from 194F at the start line to the mid 210s F seems a bit silly.

I have an under driven crank pulley now and it seems to have helped a bit, I recorded the lower radiator hose and it's not collapsing at high RPM, upgraded Koyo Series 2 radiator with foam around all of it (except for the header side, like stock).

Thoughts? Obviously not "dangerous" in an autocross run but it seems a little high, especially in track use.

 

I don’t believe in running foam, never have, and have warned people about it repeatedly because one net negative effect is no cooling air then goes to the engine bay and will only make the engine bay run hotter including the intake

a lower thermostat will provide a lower temp starting point, which adds capacity before it reaches that high temp, whereas the OE t-stat runs it right up to that range

also a fan of Evans coolant, but it might be more trouble than you want to deal with getting all the water/coolant out for it to be effective

I had the original S1 radiator too; lighter and was always sufficient for me. I did upgrade to the slightly larger S2 OE radiator for my DSP build.
.

 

Logged IATs were fine. Just issues with coolant temps.

 

that’s logged at the MAF sensor ...

 

In any case, I want to get my coolant temps down unless I'm "fine". IATs are a different matter.

 

perhaps the overall point you’re refusing to accept is that foaming the radiator is doing nothing positive to assist you in achieving that goal

edit: I can accept that we have a different experience then, hope you figure it out.

 

I had the same temps before and after foaming the radiator in autocross use. On track the coolant temps were massively improved with the foam so it stays in place.

 

I can only relay my own experience, just as I have to accept yours at face value as well. Whether S1 vs. S2 matters I can’t say. I’m not sure why you didn’t just say it in the first place anymore than I can account for my own poor choice of words in the prior reply.

My only intention was to try and answer your inquiry within my own understanding and experience of not having such high coolant temps despite being in a much warmer climate. Mazda did increase the S2 radiator capacity/thickness, so perhaps there is a difference from the S1 in that regard that is beyond my understanding.

Hope you can figure it out. Or that there isn’t something else going on internally creating the issue for you.
.

 

I know the S2 water pump is different, but it *should* be a lot better than the S1 water pump in regards to cavitation.

I just don't know what sort of temps are normal/expected. After a quick chat with Tamra it sounds like they ran into really high coolant temps and with a few changes (Speedsource Pulleys & foaming their Koyo rad though they also don't know that the foam did anything at autocross speed) they're under control now. SpeedSource pulleys aren't an option for me in STX, so I'm not sure what to try next. I've recorded video of my lower rad hose at full temp and high RPM and it's not collapsing, the radiator is new, the engine is new and the tune isn't crazy (less timing than stock but way leaner as you'd expect) and otherwise the car seems fine.

Does the ECT sensor just read high versus aftermarket gauges or something? I will gladly ignore ~220F temps on the engine sensor if an external gauge in the heater core line would be reading 10 degrees cooler. I just *really* don't want to be rebuilding my engine after hurting it. It's *very* strong and I'd like to keep it that way.

 

I'm pulling my temp off the lower hose, and I see about 205/210 at autocross when really pushing it on a hot day, but the fans immediately get it under control. At the track, I don't think I've ever seen it over 200.

Full disclosure, I have the Ron Davis Mazmart radiator and a 170 thermostat

 

I ran the Speedsource pulleys in STX. The trick is double up the front pulley with longer bolts, which allows running the AC belt in underdrive. I never used the AC; it had the freon removed.

 

Curious how a temp sensor there correlates to the OBD ECT sensor... Hmm. Those sort of temps seem perfectly reasonable.

My fans bring the temps back down quickly, especially with the lower fan settings in my tune, so I know they're working and the cooling system seems to have capacity.

 

The ECU gets it's information from the sensor on the thermostat housing - my sensor is about 4 inches downstream from that, and the difference between the two is never more than 2 degrees. When I had it coming off the heater line per the Racing Beat kit, the temperature was 10 degrees off.