Hi all,

I'm new to this "Track" stuff and want to get started in the right direction. I would like to know what size of wheel(s) what make and size of tire(s) you run and why?
Also whats your Autocross/Track ect Wheel & Tire size?

Also where is a good place to get started? links books stuff like that. I'm asking cuz someone told me Autocross and "Roadracing" are not the samething
So whats the difference with Autocross Time Attack Roadracing and Track ect?

Why ask why? Well I guess this would help a lot of no0bs like me that are interested. Where is a good place to start reading up on stuff like this?
This serves for a great discussion to

Discuss!

 

Hm... my personal view on this would be..
Autocross has more sharp quick turn-ins and slaloms. Hitting above 75mph is Uncommon on most events.
Kinda like a place to start out since its one at a time and learn the limits of your setup, tires, how to take a line, etc.

Track events are something similar but like more on a larger scale with speeds of 100+ is very common.
Also on a track it is possible that they have other cars out there. So your goal as a driver is not to be just the quickest but to be safe for yourself and others alike.

As far as set up, I think 18x9 all around should be sufficient until more power in introduced.
Then the stock tendency of understeer our 8's have... your going to have to figure out a setup. Sways, Coils, Springs, and wheel size could alter this.

A good starting place would be stock wheels with some nice summer tires and a set of springs that have a stiffer spring rate in the rear paired with a nice set of adj. shocks/struts.
Stiffer rear would encourage more oversteer to counter the understeet issue. Oversteer is the faster option while understeer is not as scary?? if that makes any sense

Read, read, read... theres alot to be learned and only way to better oneself.

 

As I only do HPDEs, not time attack or Autox can't comment on the others - but here's a start for you on 'track'. So to specifically answer your questions: 17"x9" 45mm "HotWheels" with Nitto NT-01 DOT R-Compound 245/45/17. Why? Lightweight 17" wheels go faster, ride better, are cheaper, and the 17" tires you use are way way cheaper (esp. considering you need to replace the tires regularly) Why NT-01s? Compared to the 'fastest' R-Comps, NT-01s are 1/2 the price, give up only a sec or so on a track circuit compared to the say, a Hoosier, but last maybe 6-8 track days, rather than a day or so. Also things difficult or impossible on other R-comps - you can drive NT-01s to the track, and are extremely forgiving at the limit for an R-Comp (not the norm).

Lastly, don't get R-Comps if you're new to things, 1st, most clubs won't allow you to use them, and second, it'll be safer to use whatever you have to get started (ultimate grip is less).


for reading.....

http://www.nasaproracing.com/hpde/index.html AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE has a set of articles that covers technique concerning driving. You can google and find lots more, but this is excellent material. It's a lot to take in at once, so I recommend just keep reading it over and over as you understanding of your car and how car's handle increases as you do more tracking yourself. What doesn't make sense on paper or initially can become amazingly crystal clear after you do it on the track yourself!

Oh yes, when you start signing up for events there is usually a manual for the event, and often online material as well. These are typically pretty decent and can give you alot of help. BMW club has some good material avail as well, look around, you'd be surprised how much you can learn.

 

Or you could save a lot of time and money and just get a good alignment. It makes a world of difference.

Most autocrossers are running B-stock and are limited to a stock diameter and width with a 1/4" variance in offset. Most people are running either the 245/35/18 Hoosier A6 or Kumho V710. There are a few people out there that are able to mount a 285/30 on the 8" wide wheels, but not many.

Autocross and track driving/racing are two totally different animals. Try both and see which you like.

 

Good generalizations.

As for the understeer comment- a simple decent alignment pretty much dials out the understeer and takes the car towards neutral. The rest of the stuff is nice to have.


AutoX - Very competitive events. Courses outlined by cones. Focus on technical driving. Goal - learn to win within the rulebook.

Open Track Days (HPDE) - Noncompetitive events on road courses. Advanced groups run with little to no point by rules. Novice and intermediate groups run with restricted passing zone and point byes. Goal - learn to go fast, don't crash yourself or others, learn track basics (flags, etiquitte, etc.). Many race teams use these events to dial in their cars.

Time Trials - HPDE on steroids (timed laps). Cars are usually semi prepared in terms of safety gear and harnesses, though I see many harnesses strapped to harness bars only (I wouldn't do that). Goal - clock quickest lap you can, however, this is not wheel to wheel racing......

Road Racing - Competitive wheel to wheel racing on road courses. Licensed drivers in fully tech inspected vehicles for safety gear and rules compliance. Goal- all of the above goals.

 

Thanks
Hmm.. I'm currently running for Auto-x:
Front -1.2 Camber
Rear -2.1 Camber
Not to sure about my caster and toe at this time, have the specs in my car and I'll post later.

I'm still having some understeer problems when pushed to the extreme point.. well I'm running staggered wheels so that doesn't help either.

Whats your align setup?

 

First off...

It will cost you money.

If you are not prepared to spend it don't consider it.

However if you want to do it once, maybe twice a year it's a lot less expensive.

Just use your stock car and change the brake fluid. Be safe and have fun.

Then make a judgement next as to what you want to do in the future.

I recomend doing both HPDE and Auto x as they are completely different.

 

Sort of like dating women

But you are so right, I don't even dare tally up the costs....

 

Too much negative camber at the rear. Bring it within .2 degrees of your front. So, -1.2 Front, -1.4 Rear should have you rotating a bit better.

 

Hmm.. the guy that was working on my car's alignment said that he couldn't get anything under -2.1 So i just stuck with the lowest he could get. I think I need to get adj. arms to change it up.

Sorry about hi-jacking your thread...

 

No offense, but perhaps you’re not the best one to be offering setup advice.

Your car understeers because you’ve got way too much of a camber differential from front to rear. If the tech can’t get less than -2.1 in the back it’s because you’re running lowering springs, and you’ll need to up the front camber to around -1.9 to match. Then you need to ditch the staggered tire sizes.

 

Dominion,

Here’s what I would suggest: Before you buy any wheels or tires for autosports, give autocrossing and/or a track day a try. First off, you can try both with nothing more than stock wheels and a set of OEM tires that are above the wear bars. More importantly, you can then make a better decision as to what you want to focus on. Do you want a competitive autocross car that you can sometimes take to the track? Do you want a fun track car that you can occasionally autocross? What you decide may have an influence on what wheels and tires you want to buy as you become more serious.

Your first step should be to log on to the Las Vegas SCCA website, find out when the next local autocross is, and sign up. Most Regions have a good program to help walk a novice driver through their first event. Give autocrossing a try and see if you like it, before you throw money at the car.

 

Wow thanks for all the info guys. There is a "event" coming up and this is why I was asking;
Sounds like fun By the time this event comes around I will have a racing seat and head gear and my car droped. I just dont know if I want to "get into" this just yet. But there is another event being held at the Spring MTN track in Nov as well. Maybe I'll just go to see what gos on Sat. Then make up my mind.

 

1st rule: DON'T mod your car to start - really- esp something like dropping it. It will likely HURT the handling and balance, not to mention the overall adhesion of the car. (I'm assuming you're meaning springs)

Just take your stock car out and see what it can do - it'll be just fine. save your money, learn, listen to the instructor, drive many many many days or weekends with the car in its stock state. You'll learn what it can do - and it can do a lot just the way it was born. Later...much later...think about how you can improve any part of its behavior YOU discover to be less than you want.

You'll have a blast - remember K.I.S.S is the best! And don't wait - do it! In novice group you really can't hurt yourself or your car. It's only FUN!!