Track day/TT3/SM Build LFX v6
#76
Do you have the magna flow round bro a flowmaster?
what flow master did you use and how much quieter?
You have your Penskes? Still waiting on mine, sounds like it'll be soon though.
what flow master did you use and how much quieter?
You have your Penskes? Still waiting on mine, sounds like it'll be soon though.
#77
I used that round passthru one and add this. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-11229
It's a good bit quieter and killed a lot of the rasp.
No Penskes, eagerly waiting. Got my AC lines, extended shifter and hood vents today.
It's a good bit quieter and killed a lot of the rasp.
No Penskes, eagerly waiting. Got my AC lines, extended shifter and hood vents today.
#78
the honey moon is over.
Go to start the car and move it for some tinker time. It cranked but didn't start. Seemed like no spark.
Checked all the fuses and whatnot. Looks good.
Flip the breaker between the battery and car and throw a charger on it just in case. Try again after some time passes, the damn immobilizer is keeping the car from cranking. Stupid little car/key light fast flashes.
The stock ecu runs my gauges, power steering and of course, the damn starter.
Go to start the car and move it for some tinker time. It cranked but didn't start. Seemed like no spark.
Checked all the fuses and whatnot. Looks good.
Flip the breaker between the battery and car and throw a charger on it just in case. Try again after some time passes, the damn immobilizer is keeping the car from cranking. Stupid little car/key light fast flashes.
The stock ecu runs my gauges, power steering and of course, the damn starter.
#82
#84
Registered
#85
Have the Penskes installed
An unexpected benefit is my tire no longer rubs the spring at full lock. Lowered as much as possible on 8" springs puts the car at 13.5" I haven't verified this myself but I'm told I should have 8" of total travel so the use of an 8" spring would allow for more than the full compression stroke to be used.
I'm thinking of going to a shorter spring.
6" spring. It's nearly a pound lighter and 3.25 travel
7" spring, 1/2 pound lighter and 3.83 travel
I went with 800/550, it's stiff but not overly so.
I have a route is take for tuning my rx8 that had various shitty road conditions with 2 RR crossings and the Penskes do a good job at making the bad roads disappear.
Quick adjustment? The rear is fine, Not so much in front.
im thinking I might make a remote adjuster for the compression side but the sweep style rebound adjuster is probably going to require wheel removal to adjust.
An unexpected benefit is my tire no longer rubs the spring at full lock. Lowered as much as possible on 8" springs puts the car at 13.5" I haven't verified this myself but I'm told I should have 8" of total travel so the use of an 8" spring would allow for more than the full compression stroke to be used.
I'm thinking of going to a shorter spring.
6" spring. It's nearly a pound lighter and 3.25 travel
7" spring, 1/2 pound lighter and 3.83 travel
I went with 800/550, it's stiff but not overly so.
I have a route is take for tuning my rx8 that had various shitty road conditions with 2 RR crossings and the Penskes do a good job at making the bad roads disappear.
Quick adjustment? The rear is fine, Not so much in front.
im thinking I might make a remote adjuster for the compression side but the sweep style rebound adjuster is probably going to require wheel removal to adjust.
#87
I was wondering if there is a known tool (besides a bench press) to push the lca bushings out. Snapon used to have one for Honda's, you didn't have to even remove the arm.
schley 6100.
Team did you notice the front shocks are inverted also?
Anyone care to know why this is a bad idea with double adjustable Penskes? Rebound adjuster is a sweep style adjuster and it's behind the wheel and hub assembly. Not easily accessible.
schley 6100.
Team did you notice the front shocks are inverted also?
Anyone care to know why this is a bad idea with double adjustable Penskes? Rebound adjuster is a sweep style adjuster and it's behind the wheel and hub assembly. Not easily accessible.
#88
I guess I'm good on the tool, still open to suggestions but I guess a few washers, the proper bolt and a pipe will probably work.
I'm wondering how you keep the lca camber/caster bushings from accidentally rotating. They don't look like they will be particularly easy to adjust either. More reading to do I guess.
I'm wondering how you keep the lca camber/caster bushings from accidentally rotating. They don't look like they will be particularly easy to adjust either. More reading to do I guess.
#90
Registered
My car arrived today. The driver of the delivery rig called ahead to tell me the battery was dead and he couldn’t find the battery. I told him it was in the trunk. When it arrived I put a meter on it and it was around 3 volts. I was able to get it jumped and it was fine, but I think there is a drain. I checked it after driving it tonight and I’ll compare in the morning to see if that is the case.
Wow, this thing is tail happy! It was totally controllable, but easy to light them up going through the gears. The first major problem is a huge loss of power at around 5200rpm. It feels like I’m losing 3 cylinders and doesn’t really want to rev past that. I’ll talk to Andrew and get his take. The car is definitely very loud inside, but it sounds mostly like the engine bay/intake and not the exhaust. Any engine braking at all sounds pretty rough. It is also bringing out even more rattles in the car. The transmission is definitely not as smooth as my stock RX8, but maybe I just need to get used to it. The gate to reverse is not very strong, so I fear I might go past first when downshifting sometime. Those are the main issues. Overall though this is a blast to drive, and It will only get better as I get through some of the teething issues. I really want that full power band. I’m looking forward to getting more seat time.
Last edited by Skinless; 05-24-2020 at 02:47 AM.
#91
Sorry to hear of the trouble.
If you purchased a whole car like I did, keep in mind your also inheriting previous gremlins. I recently had issues with an alarm system causing some issues with the immobilizer.
I reached out to Andrew and even though it's not really his problem, he sent me some write-ups and fsm diagrams to help me diagnose the issue.
Your power problem is interesting. You should feel extra power hitting, the gm tune doesn't allow the throttle plate to go fully open till higher in the rpm range. Have an OBD2 reader?
I used https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx for my ratio/mph data.
If you purchased a whole car like I did, keep in mind your also inheriting previous gremlins. I recently had issues with an alarm system causing some issues with the immobilizer.
I reached out to Andrew and even though it's not really his problem, he sent me some write-ups and fsm diagrams to help me diagnose the issue.
Your power problem is interesting. You should feel extra power hitting, the gm tune doesn't allow the throttle plate to go fully open till higher in the rpm range. Have an OBD2 reader?
I used https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx for my ratio/mph data.
The following users liked this post:
Skinless (05-24-2020)
#92
First post. There's a 3500rpm fuel cutoff if the ECM thinks it's in neutral. In HP Tuners its under Engine/Fuel/Cutoff, DFCO/RPM Limits/Fuel Cutoff RPM (In Gear).
There's also a torque limit in Engine/Torque Management/General/Trans Default Torque Limit. If you're running an automatic ECM, that one kicks in at 4k rpm.
re: no spark. LFX uses a boost circuit in the ECM to power the injectors to 48v. This boost circuit (because reasons) doesn't like a weak battery. Doesn't help that the alternator outputs default 13.8v without a BCM, which results in a slightly undercharged battery. A lithium boost box helps get a little extra umph and will let the injectors fire.
There's also a torque limit in Engine/Torque Management/General/Trans Default Torque Limit. If you're running an automatic ECM, that one kicks in at 4k rpm.
re: no spark. LFX uses a boost circuit in the ECM to power the injectors to 48v. This boost circuit (because reasons) doesn't like a weak battery. Doesn't help that the alternator outputs default 13.8v without a BCM, which results in a slightly undercharged battery. A lithium boost box helps get a little extra umph and will let the injectors fire.
The following 2 users liked this post by gooflophaze:
hufflepuff (10-26-2020),
Skinless (05-24-2020)
#93
Registered
Sorry to hear of the trouble.
If you purchased a whole car like I did, keep in mind your also inheriting previous gremlins. I recently had issues with an alarm system causing some issues with the immobilizer.
I reached out to Andrew and even though it's not really his problem, he sent me some write-ups and fsm diagrams to help me diagnose the issue.
Your power problem is interesting. You should feel extra power hitting, the gm tune doesn't allow the throttle plate to go fully open till higher in the rpm range. Have an OBD2 reader?
I used https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx for my ratio/mph data.
If you purchased a whole car like I did, keep in mind your also inheriting previous gremlins. I recently had issues with an alarm system causing some issues with the immobilizer.
I reached out to Andrew and even though it's not really his problem, he sent me some write-ups and fsm diagrams to help me diagnose the issue.
Your power problem is interesting. You should feel extra power hitting, the gm tune doesn't allow the throttle plate to go fully open till higher in the rpm range. Have an OBD2 reader?
I used https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx for my ratio/mph data.
I hooked up my ODBII today and there is one code: P062F - Internal Control Module EEPROM Error.
I'm not sure if that is expected or not and I haven't asked Andrew yet. Do you have the same code?
I had a chance to go out and do a quick test this morning. I revved freely in first and second, but repeatedly hit the same problem in third. I had my odbii hooked up and I could see the timing jump all over the place every time it happened. I'll have to look at the logs more closely when I have a chance later. Right now I need to get the family out of the house for some fresh air.
First post. There's a 3500rpm fuel cutoff if the ECM thinks it's in neutral. In HP Tuners its under Engine/Fuel/Cutoff, DFCO/RPM Limits/Fuel Cutoff RPM (In Gear).
There's also a torque limit in Engine/Torque Management/General/Trans Default Torque Limit. If you're running an automatic ECM, that one kicks in at 4k rpm.
re: no spark. LFX uses a boost circuit in the ECM to power the injectors to 48v. This boost circuit (because reasons) doesn't like a weak battery. Doesn't help that the alternator outputs default 13.8v without a BCM, which results in a slightly undercharged battery. A lithium boost box helps get a little extra umph and will let the injectors fire.
There's also a torque limit in Engine/Torque Management/General/Trans Default Torque Limit. If you're running an automatic ECM, that one kicks in at 4k rpm.
re: no spark. LFX uses a boost circuit in the ECM to power the injectors to 48v. This boost circuit (because reasons) doesn't like a weak battery. Doesn't help that the alternator outputs default 13.8v without a BCM, which results in a slightly undercharged battery. A lithium boost box helps get a little extra umph and will let the injectors fire.
Teething issues aside, this thing is a beast! This is the power the car always needed!
#94
Registered
Andrew thinks he knows what the problem is. In the tune there is a setting for wheel revolutions per mile, and it looks like it is likely way low in my ECU. There is also a setting that cuts fuel when the speed reaches 255mph, so since the wheel revolutions per mile is way off it is hitting this limit around 5200rpm in 3rd gear. That is the theory anyway. He has seen this on one other car and fixing the wheel revs per mile fixed the issue. I confirmed that the ECU is reporting the speed as many times the actual speed. Andrew is mailing me his tuner so I can fix the value and test.
The following users liked this post:
hufflepuff (10-26-2020)
#95
Registered
the honey moon is over.
Go to start the car and move it for some tinker time. It cranked but didn't start. Seemed like no spark.
Checked all the fuses and whatnot. Looks good.
Flip the breaker between the battery and car and throw a charger on it just in case. Try again after some time passes, the damn immobilizer is keeping the car from cranking. Stupid little car/key light fast flashes.
The stock ecu runs my gauges, power steering and of course, the damn starter.
Go to start the car and move it for some tinker time. It cranked but didn't start. Seemed like no spark.
Checked all the fuses and whatnot. Looks good.
Flip the breaker between the battery and car and throw a charger on it just in case. Try again after some time passes, the damn immobilizer is keeping the car from cranking. Stupid little car/key light fast flashes.
The stock ecu runs my gauges, power steering and of course, the damn starter.
#96
Ill get more track oriented now that things are opening back up. I recognize the need to start a lfx swap issues thread/group though.
I installed the the Supernow camber/caster bushings this weekend, well one side at least. I have some gripes that are likely due to my lack of knowledge.
having some kind of marking to show adjustment gain if installed and clocked a certain way would be nice. It seems like I'll have to get on an alignment rack and see what my min/max adjustment range are in their current position.
I can mark this and if I choose poorly I'll at least have a reference point to work from. I don't relish taking it apart again but it should be much easier now that I've done it.
At 40 I'm surprised how little my hands enjoy doing this kind of stuff now. I figured I had a few more years before my joints hurt from doing moderate levels of work.
Posting picks of how I pressed the bushings out.
I didn't use anything fancy.
this 12ton hf press was barely up to the task. It seemed like the bottle jack jack bypassingwbypassing pressure when things got difficult.
This was before I figured out I had to press these in using some intelligence, the 2 Allen bolts are lined up with the length of the arm now and pushes the control arm forward a reasonable amount. With it as pictured it was wayyyy to far forward.
I installed the the Supernow camber/caster bushings this weekend, well one side at least. I have some gripes that are likely due to my lack of knowledge.
having some kind of marking to show adjustment gain if installed and clocked a certain way would be nice. It seems like I'll have to get on an alignment rack and see what my min/max adjustment range are in their current position.
I can mark this and if I choose poorly I'll at least have a reference point to work from. I don't relish taking it apart again but it should be much easier now that I've done it.
At 40 I'm surprised how little my hands enjoy doing this kind of stuff now. I figured I had a few more years before my joints hurt from doing moderate levels of work.
Posting picks of how I pressed the bushings out.
I didn't use anything fancy.
this 12ton hf press was barely up to the task. It seemed like the bottle jack jack bypassingwbypassing pressure when things got difficult.
This was before I figured out I had to press these in using some intelligence, the 2 Allen bolts are lined up with the length of the arm now and pushes the control arm forward a reasonable amount. With it as pictured it was wayyyy to far forward.
Last edited by Mike D; 05-30-2020 at 08:57 PM.
#97
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Well I think they have to be aligned in the maximum inboard position to push the ball joint outward for increasing negative camber and then you still use the OE cam bolts to adjust it from there? So in the pic it looks like the rear caster insert needs to rotate approx. 45* clockwise to sort of align with the C-L plane of the other bushing
Give it 20 more years
.
Give it 20 more years
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 05-31-2020 at 09:41 AM.
#98
I ended up doing what your pic shows. This morning it made sense to just line up the horizontal axis. After fighting with it all day yesterday today did both sides in 2-3 hours.
Off to the alignment shop next week.
Off to the alignment shop next week.