track/street gauge readings
#151
Originally Posted by BlueRenesis82
so revving above 8k really not worth it? I have heard that before, but if YOU say it.....
Rotor - I read your comments with great interest about the temps that dino oil breaks down. Sounds like you have real lab experience in this matter. It sounds like with the stock system we are just fine and not needing to worry about the oil breaking down.
#152
Originally Posted by r0tor
i tested too many oil samples in a particular oil companies research lab to know otherwise. If we were in a hurry we use to bring the oil up to 250 just to boil the water out of the oil that got absorbed while sitting in the drums in the drum field.
#153
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From: macon, georgia
As TA says-- if he didnt stay in 4th it would cause a shift that would get things to busy and end up not to be to his advantage. That is one of the reasons I went with a smaller tire. To dial the car in a little better for me and my driving style. Easing the work on the engine a little. Everyone knows that proper gearing for a track is very important. For our daily driven 8's it is a little harder to do--I just got lucky with my decision on the 17's. Some people have dropped to 35 size sidewall in the 18 inch tire to get a shorter gear. The more on the track the more we learn.
remember you can overdrive an engine just as you can overdrive a car. If I remember correctly Speed Source shifts before 8K or maybe a little afterward. Course they are dialed in!!!
Also on the MOP--I do run a premix. I believe on track days and higher than usual engine speeds our stock MOP is inadequete in relation to long engine life. You may not need it for everyday driving(i do it anyway--makes people at the gas stations ask questions-- hehehe). Isn't it strange that on some track events I use more oil than others and it seems the demand on the engine is not that much differant between the events. TA has noticed the same thing.
At this point I am not concerned about temps on the track. If I didnt have gauges so that I could monitor them I would be more concerned. This engine has the potential to overheat(like all do) and it will not give you much warning--- and a rotory will not tolerant any overheating. I encourage anyone doing regular track days 3-4x's a year or more---get gauges.
Jay----- I bet you get really GOOD oil pressure readings with that 20W50! I am thinking about going to a 10W40 RP the next event --just to experiment a little. By the way we THINK some of us are turning sub 1:30 at Roebling--which ain't bad.
Swoope ---thanks a lot for the oil changing hint --makes sense and I will be sure to use it.
olddragger
remember you can overdrive an engine just as you can overdrive a car. If I remember correctly Speed Source shifts before 8K or maybe a little afterward. Course they are dialed in!!!
Also on the MOP--I do run a premix. I believe on track days and higher than usual engine speeds our stock MOP is inadequete in relation to long engine life. You may not need it for everyday driving(i do it anyway--makes people at the gas stations ask questions-- hehehe). Isn't it strange that on some track events I use more oil than others and it seems the demand on the engine is not that much differant between the events. TA has noticed the same thing.
At this point I am not concerned about temps on the track. If I didnt have gauges so that I could monitor them I would be more concerned. This engine has the potential to overheat(like all do) and it will not give you much warning--- and a rotory will not tolerant any overheating. I encourage anyone doing regular track days 3-4x's a year or more---get gauges.
Jay----- I bet you get really GOOD oil pressure readings with that 20W50! I am thinking about going to a 10W40 RP the next event --just to experiment a little. By the way we THINK some of us are turning sub 1:30 at Roebling--which ain't bad.
Swoope ---thanks a lot for the oil changing hint --makes sense and I will be sure to use it.
olddragger
#154
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From: macon, georgia
Razz--yep upgrading the MOP is a good idea for us track addicts. Until I can get around to that(like end of warrenty) i will use pre mix instead.
heres a hint if you want to use A/C on the track to activate your fans. Just take the a/c belt off(takes maybe 2 minutes to do that) and when you want fans just turn the a/c switch on. Just remember to turn it off once up to speed.
olddragger
heres a hint if you want to use A/C on the track to activate your fans. Just take the a/c belt off(takes maybe 2 minutes to do that) and when you want fans just turn the a/c switch on. Just remember to turn it off once up to speed.
olddragger
#156
What I like about adding oil is the choice to use Snowmobile/Motorcycle 2 stroke oil.
Whether it be regular oil or sync., it's made to burn so you can be safe it won't clog the fuel system and when it hits the chamber it will burn.
I like the above approach.
I use to use Marvel Mystery oil in my Harley.
Whether it be regular oil or sync., it's made to burn so you can be safe it won't clog the fuel system and when it hits the chamber it will burn.
I like the above approach.
I use to use Marvel Mystery oil in my Harley.
#158
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From: macon, georgia
Be sure you DO NOT USE any 2 stoke castor based oil. It will ruin your cat. What i use is a blend. I mix Lucus Top cylinder lube and injector cleaner 50/50 with Yamaha blue(their best 2 stroke pre mix synthetic oil). I add at NO MORE than 1/2 oz per gallon. Anymore you start reducing octane etc. This mixture will not hurt your cat, looks purty and it works well for me although I cant really prove that. It is just very lodgical too me.
There are a lot of differant pre mix's out there that will work fine. Just pick one.
Olddragger
There are a lot of differant pre mix's out there that will work fine. Just pick one.
Olddragger
#160
Can you guys with the gauges post your ride height?
I would think ride heigh will play a big factor on the track.
for example 2" lower than stock vs 1/2 "
Track temps are real hot. If your closer your gonna get hotter. Right?
I would think ride heigh will play a big factor on the track.
for example 2" lower than stock vs 1/2 "
Track temps are real hot. If your closer your gonna get hotter. Right?
#161
umm, not really. It's more a factor of the air that you are picking up over your oil coolers and radiator. If the radiator was on the bottom of the car, then you might see a pretty big diff due to it facing a small area that supplies air. I think we can all agree that the front of our car has some pretty decent size openings for air intakes for cooling.
#162
No idea of the last comment but my car is 20mm lower in the front and roughly 15mm lower at the rear (Tein's spec).
With the Mazda appearance package the front lip is 11mm off the ground
With the Mazda appearance package the front lip is 11mm off the ground
#163
I installed a Koyo radiator last Saturday. I’ve been watching my water temps over the past two days with an ambient around 80-85 deg F and high humidity. Little disappointed, haven’t really seen much of a difference. I am still seeing slightly over 200deg under acceleration and around 175 when cruising at 60mph. Idleing at a stoplight I see about 195.
#164
Mate....
Idling of course it will increase! There is no wind to cool it
The thermostat does not open until 82 degree C. So 93 C (200F) is not that bad.
How thick is Koyo? Any details? The radiator is judged by their thickness, layer and the material used (like aluminum, brass, or copper).
Idling of course it will increase! There is no wind to cool it
The thermostat does not open until 82 degree C. So 93 C (200F) is not that bad.
How thick is Koyo? Any details? The radiator is judged by their thickness, layer and the material used (like aluminum, brass, or copper).
#165
Originally Posted by takahashi
No idea of the last comment but my car is 20mm lower in the front and roughly 15mm lower at the rear (Tein's spec).
With the Mazda appearance package the front lip is 11mm off the ground
With the Mazda appearance package the front lip is 11mm off the ground
#166
Originally Posted by takahashi
Mate....
Idling of course it will increase! There is no wind to cool it
The thermostat does not open until 82 degree C. So 93 C (200F) is not that bad.
How thick is Koyo? Any details? The radiator is judged by their thickness, layer and the material used (like aluminum, brass, or copper).
Idling of course it will increase! There is no wind to cool it
The thermostat does not open until 82 degree C. So 93 C (200F) is not that bad.
How thick is Koyo? Any details? The radiator is judged by their thickness, layer and the material used (like aluminum, brass, or copper).
Mainly I was hoping to keep my temps under acceleration a little lower. Around 185 or so.
I didn't measure the thickness of the radiator. Next time I'm under there I'll get it.
#168
did you measure the diff in the amount of coolant before and after???
the thermostat controls everything going on here.... it will act the same no matter what rad you have on it.....
what you got should give you that extra to keep it cool in the ugly times.... and i think it will...
the temps for the thermostat you are running are inline...
to make it run cooler you will have to change the thermostat.
beers
the thermostat controls everything going on here.... it will act the same no matter what rad you have on it.....
what you got should give you that extra to keep it cool in the ugly times.... and i think it will...
the temps for the thermostat you are running are inline...
to make it run cooler you will have to change the thermostat.
beers
Last edited by swoope; 05-31-2006 at 01:18 AM.
#169
Originally Posted by takahashi
Mate....
Idling of course it will increase! There is no wind to cool it
The thermostat does not open until 82 degree C. So 93 C (200F) is not that bad.
How thick is Koyo? Any details? The radiator is judged by their thickness, layer and the material used (like aluminum, brass, or copper).
Idling of course it will increase! There is no wind to cool it
The thermostat does not open until 82 degree C. So 93 C (200F) is not that bad.
How thick is Koyo? Any details? The radiator is judged by their thickness, layer and the material used (like aluminum, brass, or copper).
2 1/16"
http://www.mazdatrix.com/8cooling.htm
#171
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Street temps for me in Georgia at 95ambient are so far no problems. coolant arount 190-195 with/without a/c on, oil temps 190-200. This is normal driving stop and go/interstate/neighborhoods type stuff for 30mins/1 hr. Aggressive driving does put the "flame" on and temps will go up. If you drive aggressively(like from red light to red light stop and go) and DONT have a cool down streach/run then the temps I believe will get too hot. Something factory gauges would not show.
I wonder if my underdrive pulley is actually helping the pump do a better job?
Olddragger
I wonder if my underdrive pulley is actually helping the pump do a better job?
Olddragger
#172
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From: macon, georgia
Ok I am going to do a little experiment also. I dont have the RB radiator/a/c condensor screen and I have home made oil cooler screens. I am going to remove the oil screens to see if that makes any differance. I will do that this w/e. They may be blocking some flow.
Olddragger
Olddragger
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