Car Storage Tips
#1
Car Storage Tips
Hi,
I plan to store my RX-8 this winter (in an old barn warehouse with a cement floor).
Any storage suggestions?
Some ideas:
- Park on top of cardboard (this helps to reduce rising moisture to protect against rust). Also leave the windows open a bit.
Also, I'll need to disconnect the battery (since I will not be able to enter the complex to start the engine every once in a while).
I do not plan to put the car on blocks.
Thanks for any advice.
I plan to store my RX-8 this winter (in an old barn warehouse with a cement floor).
Any storage suggestions?
Some ideas:
- Park on top of cardboard (this helps to reduce rising moisture to protect against rust). Also leave the windows open a bit.
Also, I'll need to disconnect the battery (since I will not be able to enter the complex to start the engine every once in a while).
I do not plan to put the car on blocks.
Thanks for any advice.
#2
1. Fill the fuel tank to the top to reduce chances of condensation adding moisture to the fuel. The fuel will not deteriorate over a 6 month storage period so fuel stabilizer isn't really needed.
2. Change the oil just before storing to ensure it isn't contaminated with acids.
3. Make sure the tires have enough air in them - I like to pump them up to the higher of the recommended pressures on the door post as they will loose a little air during storage.
4. Keep the windows closed to ensure you don't get mice inside.
5. Rust from moisture is usually not much of a problem, unless the space doesn't go below freezing. Even if it doen't, the rust will be less than if you were driving it.
6. I like to remove the battery and charge it once every two weeks with a good quality charger (low current but good voltage control).
In the spring, reinstall the battery, clean the inside of the windows (plastic outgassing builds up on the glass), check the oil and coolant visually, start the car, reset the Power steering (turn all the way to the right then all the way to the left then centre as per the manual), and drive away.
2. Change the oil just before storing to ensure it isn't contaminated with acids.
3. Make sure the tires have enough air in them - I like to pump them up to the higher of the recommended pressures on the door post as they will loose a little air during storage.
4. Keep the windows closed to ensure you don't get mice inside.
5. Rust from moisture is usually not much of a problem, unless the space doesn't go below freezing. Even if it doen't, the rust will be less than if you were driving it.
6. I like to remove the battery and charge it once every two weeks with a good quality charger (low current but good voltage control).
In the spring, reinstall the battery, clean the inside of the windows (plastic outgassing builds up on the glass), check the oil and coolant visually, start the car, reset the Power steering (turn all the way to the right then all the way to the left then centre as per the manual), and drive away.
#3
Thanks
It turns out that the barn has a dirt floor (cement barn was full), but I placed cardboard under the car anyway. Also used a car cover.
I will have access to enter the place after all...so my question is now am I better off to disconnect the battery or start up the engine periodically? There seems to be differences of opinion on this. If so, how often to start it up and for how long?
Note I have the module installed that provides an "electrostatic charge" around the vehicle for rustproofing.
And temperatures fall below zero for way too long over here in the winter...
It turns out that the barn has a dirt floor (cement barn was full), but I placed cardboard under the car anyway. Also used a car cover.
I will have access to enter the place after all...so my question is now am I better off to disconnect the battery or start up the engine periodically? There seems to be differences of opinion on this. If so, how often to start it up and for how long?
Note I have the module installed that provides an "electrostatic charge" around the vehicle for rustproofing.
And temperatures fall below zero for way too long over here in the winter...
#4
This is what I recieved from the dealer about storage. This was said for a Miata...but they gave it to me cause it applies to all cars anyway, including the RX-8.
1. Put Plastic down under car (non-heated floors only)
2. Put 45lbs of air in each tire
3. Put a small piece of plywood under each tire
4. Fill gas tank - add Stable gas
5. Change oil before and after storage
6. Disconnect battery cables and use a trickle charger once a month
7. Don't start engine at all during storage
8. Wash & Wax car before using a car cover
9. Crack window 1/4" and put a cup of baking soda on the floor
10. If stored where animals may have access, cover exhaust pipe and air intake box, don't forget to remove these in the spring!
They say whatever you do....DO NOT RUN the vehicle while in storage. This only allows condensation in the engine and exhaust as it will not fully burn off because you are not fully running the car.
1. Put Plastic down under car (non-heated floors only)
2. Put 45lbs of air in each tire
3. Put a small piece of plywood under each tire
4. Fill gas tank - add Stable gas
5. Change oil before and after storage
6. Disconnect battery cables and use a trickle charger once a month
7. Don't start engine at all during storage
8. Wash & Wax car before using a car cover
9. Crack window 1/4" and put a cup of baking soda on the floor
10. If stored where animals may have access, cover exhaust pipe and air intake box, don't forget to remove these in the spring!
They say whatever you do....DO NOT RUN the vehicle while in storage. This only allows condensation in the engine and exhaust as it will not fully burn off because you are not fully running the car.
Last edited by devoid; 11-16-2005 at 02:27 PM.
#5
In the manual it says that the a/c should be run for at least 15 min a month....
i would leave the hood open if theres rats and stuff around... my bro's 5 series got a lot of the firewall on the hood eaten away by rats... and this was over a few days
i would leave the hood open if theres rats and stuff around... my bro's 5 series got a lot of the firewall on the hood eaten away by rats... and this was over a few days
#6
- If there is a potential for mice I totally agree with the plugging the exhaust and intake. I've used SOS pads in the past. Also, as an extra precaution buy some mouse traps and place them at the base of the wheels.
- Do not run the vehicle. Heat then cold then heat then cold = Condensation and Moisture. Take out the battery and put it on a maintainer. I think the one I got was around $75. You can leave it plugged in all winter. It monitors the battery's voltage and only charges it when needed. I stored the battery in my basement where it's warm. Don't put on the ground. Place on a table or bench off the ground.
- Fill the tank with gas and add stabilizer.
- If not putting on blocks make sure there is sufficient pressure in the tires to avoid flat spots.
- Wash and wax before putting cover on.
- Oil change before storing.
- Don't use the parking brake when storing. I made the mistake of doing this last winter. After 4 to 5 months of it being engaged it somewhat seized temporarily. It still works fine but I won't do it this year.
This is pretty much what I did to my 8 last winter and it worked just fine.
Also, I haven't done this but I have seen it done. Park the car on a large piece of plastic. Once the car is parked open the doors, hood and trunk. Fold the plastic up and tuck into the doors, hood and trunk and close. Basically, this make a large belly pan over the entire undercarriage out of plastic. This provides a barrier for moisture as well as mice.
- Do not run the vehicle. Heat then cold then heat then cold = Condensation and Moisture. Take out the battery and put it on a maintainer. I think the one I got was around $75. You can leave it plugged in all winter. It monitors the battery's voltage and only charges it when needed. I stored the battery in my basement where it's warm. Don't put on the ground. Place on a table or bench off the ground.
- Fill the tank with gas and add stabilizer.
- If not putting on blocks make sure there is sufficient pressure in the tires to avoid flat spots.
- Wash and wax before putting cover on.
- Oil change before storing.
- Don't use the parking brake when storing. I made the mistake of doing this last winter. After 4 to 5 months of it being engaged it somewhat seized temporarily. It still works fine but I won't do it this year.
This is pretty much what I did to my 8 last winter and it worked just fine.
Also, I haven't done this but I have seen it done. Park the car on a large piece of plastic. Once the car is parked open the doors, hood and trunk. Fold the plastic up and tuck into the doors, hood and trunk and close. Basically, this make a large belly pan over the entire undercarriage out of plastic. This provides a barrier for moisture as well as mice.
Last edited by howardteets; 11-17-2005 at 01:12 PM.
#10
Originally Posted by storemannormin
Hey I was just going to keep my car plugged in all winter is that OK to do? as well as park it on some carpet.
It's alright provided you are plugging into the proper equipment. Use a "maintainer" not a "charger". A maintainer will only charge the battery when the voltage drops below a certain level. And stop charging when the voltage is high enough. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but a charger will constantly charge the battery as long as it's plugged in.
#15
Better check. I don't think there are block heaters on RX-8s (I'm not aware of a frost plug in which to install a standard block heater). I have an external one for my RX-7 (also called a spark plug heater as it wraps around the plugs). In fact Mazda told us we couldn't (the dealer couldn't) install one. They figured it would confuse the PCM and you'd get the wrong mixture at startup. We are tempted to install an "inline" heater in the heater hose.
If you don't intend to run the car plugging in a heater would cause more damage than it would prevent. The car is more stable when cold as long as you don't have to start it.
As I said way above, disconnect the battery and remove it. Take it home with you and use a maintainer continuously or small charger once every two weeks or once a month on it to keep it charged. This has an added benefit - the car is even more difficult to steal without a battery.
If you don't intend to run the car plugging in a heater would cause more damage than it would prevent. The car is more stable when cold as long as you don't have to start it.
As I said way above, disconnect the battery and remove it. Take it home with you and use a maintainer continuously or small charger once every two weeks or once a month on it to keep it charged. This has an added benefit - the car is even more difficult to steal without a battery.
#17
Well thanks for the tips guys....really wish I paid better attention to Devoid and Howardteet's tips regarding mice.
After about 5 months of storage (I picked up the vehicle in mid-April), I found that a mouse (or similar small animal) had enterred my engine compartment.
It chewed up pieces of the insulation in about 5 different spots and left a load of crap. The insulation directly under the hood was fine. As far as I can tell, all the car wiring is fine too.
Recall my black RX8 was stored in a winter barn (open entrance).
We placed moth ***** under the vehicle, but I really should have placed moth ***** throughout the engine compartment...that might have prevented this.
Also, I had placed Bounce dryer sheets inside my car and trunk (the mouse did not enter there at least), and placed a container of baking soda.
Also, I had taped my exhaust pipes closed, but did not block my air intake (not sure how to do that exactly).
After about a month of having the RX8 on the road, I am still noticing a bad smell coming from my vents. I suppose the mouse left a nest or crap somewhere through the vent.
What to do about this?
My options are:
A) Spray a disinfectent into my vents to kill the odour.
B) Dismantle my entire dashboard to get the vents cleaned.
I'm leaning toward option A as I'm afraid option B would be too difficult (also do not want to hear any rattling noises after getting such a job done).
Any suggestions about this?
After about 5 months of storage (I picked up the vehicle in mid-April), I found that a mouse (or similar small animal) had enterred my engine compartment.
It chewed up pieces of the insulation in about 5 different spots and left a load of crap. The insulation directly under the hood was fine. As far as I can tell, all the car wiring is fine too.
Recall my black RX8 was stored in a winter barn (open entrance).
We placed moth ***** under the vehicle, but I really should have placed moth ***** throughout the engine compartment...that might have prevented this.
Also, I had placed Bounce dryer sheets inside my car and trunk (the mouse did not enter there at least), and placed a container of baking soda.
Also, I had taped my exhaust pipes closed, but did not block my air intake (not sure how to do that exactly).
After about a month of having the RX8 on the road, I am still noticing a bad smell coming from my vents. I suppose the mouse left a nest or crap somewhere through the vent.
What to do about this?
My options are:
A) Spray a disinfectent into my vents to kill the odour.
B) Dismantle my entire dashboard to get the vents cleaned.
I'm leaning toward option A as I'm afraid option B would be too difficult (also do not want to hear any rattling noises after getting such a job done).
Any suggestions about this?
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