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Orbital Polisher Handling Tips

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Old 04-25-2006 | 10:58 PM
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the giant tastetickles
 
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Orbital Polisher Handling Tips

Hi everybody, I got myself a Bosch GEX 270 AE orbital polisher, 6 speed (minimum at 7500 rpm). I did a fair share of research before deciding about getting one. I had my first trial run last night polishing the hood of my daily driver but I was scared I might destroy something so I attach a piece of cotton cloth for buffing instead of direct contact with the pad. For the experience guys out there, can you share your tips regarding pads choice and technique?

Some other questions I have:
1. Is it normal for the polished area to be warm after 1 - 2 minutes (not concentrating on a particular area)?

2. The pads I have is a wool pad and a very dense sponge, is the wool too agressive? Is the very dense sponge called a foam pad?

3. Is the minimum rpm of 7500 too powerful?
Old 04-26-2006 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by yiksing
Hi everybody, I got myself a Bosch GEX 270 AE orbital polisher, 6 speed (minimum at 7500 rpm). I did a fair share of research before deciding about getting one. I had my first trial run last night polishing the hood of my daily driver but I was scared I might destroy something so I attach a piece of cotton cloth for buffing instead of direct contact with the pad. For the experience guys out there, can you share your tips regarding pads choice and technique?

Some other questions I have:
1. Is it normal for the polished area to be warm after 1 - 2 minutes (not concentrating on a particular area)?

2. The pads I have is a wool pad and a very dense sponge, is the wool too agressive? Is the very dense sponge called a foam pad?

3. Is the minimum rpm of 7500 too powerful?
1. No - Once the liquid disappears, stop.

2. Wool is too aggressive for just a final polish job, what compound are you using? How dense is the foam? It should be soft for a final polish, firm for a medium compound, and pratically hard for a extreme compound.

3. minimum? Its not adjustable? 7500 is okay with an orbital but thats the absolute maximum that I would take it, any more than that would just be splattering.
Old 04-26-2006 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by staticlag
1. No - Once the liquid disappears, stop.

2. Wool is too aggressive for just a final polish job, what compound are you using? How dense is the foam? It should be soft for a final polish, firm for a medium compound, and pratically hard for a extreme compound.

3. minimum? Its not adjustable? 7500 is okay with an orbital but thats the absolute maximum that I would take it, any more than that would just be splattering.
1. I used turtlewax hard shell liquid wax (requires damp cloth to apply), should I still need to dampen the polishing pad? The liquid disappears but not completely gone since there's still a hazy layer on the area. Is the heat caused by the overly fast rpm? So warm to touch is definitely a no no?

2. I suspected the pad I had was too dense, that's the reason why I put another piece of cotton cloth underneath for trial polishing. I just got the Meguire's W9000 pad, its non agressive but a bit too expensive in my opinion.

3. Its adjustable but 7500 rpm is lowest, I think it goes 24000 rpm max; luckily the thing doesn't spin to the set speed unless I hold the button for at least 30 seconds. Turns out it's a sander that can be used for polishing as well.

Additional question:
1. Can I use different wax product on the same pad after washing? e.g Turtlewax Hard Shell Liquid Wax and Turtlewax Platinum Paste Wax on the same pad after a wash.

2. If the paste wax caked up halfway through, do I need to use another pad?
Old 04-27-2006 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by yiksing
1. I used turtlewax hard shell liquid wax (requires damp cloth to apply), should I still need to dampen the polishing pad? The liquid disappears but not completely gone since there's still a hazy layer on the area. Is the heat caused by the overly fast rpm? So warm to touch is definitely a no no?

2. I suspected the pad I had was too dense, that's the reason why I put another piece of cotton cloth underneath for trial polishing. I just got the Meguire's W9000 pad, its non agressive but a bit too expensive in my opinion.

3. Its adjustable but 7500 rpm is lowest, I think it goes 24000 rpm max; luckily the thing doesn't spin to the set speed unless I hold the button for at least 30 seconds. Turns out it's a sander that can be used for polishing as well.

Additional question:
1. Can I use different wax product on the same pad after washing? e.g Turtlewax Hard Shell Liquid Wax and Turtlewax Platinum Paste Wax on the same pad after a wash.

2. If the paste wax caked up halfway through, do I need to use another pad?
1. Woah, I thought you were using an actual polishing compound! Yeah, for just applying wax 7500 rpm is pretty fast. Usually when I apply wax with my porter cable I set it to its lowest setting 2000 opm, (i have several lake county foam pads) moisten the pad with some z6 or meguires quickdetail (but you can use a bit of water) and apply just a smooth haze everywhere. All it takes is a once or maybe twice over if your just applying wax. Then let dry and use a soft foam or a buffing pad to take the wax off.

- The bad thing about not moistening is that your going a waste wax as it saturates the pad in the beginning before you get even coverage. But the bad part of using water is that some waxes dont get along well with water and the water causes spattering or reacts with the wax and causes messy application of the wax as it starts to flake. Just do some trial and error and you'll find what works.

-The heat is caused by too much friction on the surface you are working, it could either be from too high a rpm or too aggressive a pad, or just going over the area too much. Warm to the touch can be a good thing if your really trying to restore a surface with a polish, but just applying wax is overkill, with the orbital polisher you stand little chance of ruining your finish if your just applying wax but your pad is going to start to disintegrate if its running hard enough to make your surface warm.

2. sadly, the pads are expensive. All you will need is the softest finishing pad, that type can be used for everything from removing swirl marks to applying and removing wax.

3. It can work, just make sure to keep it moving across the surface at a pretty fast pace. Never hold it in one location or just go back and forth over a very small area too long when its set on a high rpm. If you've never used a machine before, its a lot faster than doing it by hand. It take me about 20 seconds to do my hood, 20 seconds to do both doors on one side, 20 seconds to do one side of the roof, about a minute or two to do the rear. Maybe a minute to do the front. Its pretty fast, there is no need to really work it in if your just applying wax, just look for even application.

1. Just make sure you get at least some of the gunk off of the pad if your just switching waxes, Use a plastic putty knife to squeeze the wax out of your pad. The problem of using one pad for too long is that solid particles and dust can get on your pad and then your really going to get a car full of swirl marks. Make sure your pad is clean before you use it each time you start a session of waxing, its a good idea to store them in ziplock bags when not in use.

2. No, just use a plastic putty knife to scape it off.
Old 04-27-2006 | 10:51 PM
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Thanks for your help, 2 more questions:

1. What's the deal with tilting the pad left or right when using the machine to prevent swirl marks. (This was mentioned in certain websites, forgot which one but has something to do with clockwise rotation of the pad...)

2. How do you know whether the wax or polish had broken down during the application?
Old 04-27-2006 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by yiksing
Thanks for your help, 2 more questions:

1. What's the deal with tilting the pad left or right when using the machine to prevent swirl marks. (This was mentioned in certain websites, forgot which one but has something to do with clockwise rotation of the pad...)

2. How do you know whether the wax or polish had broken down during the application?
1. they were talking about rotary buffers, with the orbital your supposed to hold it flat.

2. Wax wont break down, it will dry and get all gooey then flake off clogging your pad if your just trying to buff in one location from wet to dry. This is why its best to go through with one wet application of wax, then wait till it air dries and then buff off with a dry pad. Polish disintigrates as you use it. It turns from a thick cream to a haze thats pretty clear as it gets used up.
Old 04-29-2006 | 12:45 AM
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the giant tastetickles
 
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I'm getting mini-swirls even after being careful with waxing, what did I do wrong?
Old 04-30-2006 | 01:28 AM
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Sorry if this sounds a bit tedious but here goes:

1. Are you sure your car was absolutely freshly washed and clean before waxing?
2. Was your applicator sponge/pad clean?
3. Are you using towels that aren't 100% cotton or a good quality microfiber to buff off?

If you do all those, then I suggest you get a better pad. Usually the ones that come with the machine are too rough for just applying wax.

Heres the site I buy my pads from:

http://www.autogeek.net/bupo.html
Old 04-30-2006 | 01:58 AM
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the giant tastetickles
 
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1. Yes, freshly washed, dried and waxed.
2. Its a new applicator sponge fresh from packaging.
3. 100% cotton

I used the Meguire's W9000 (the finest and totally non-agressive pad)

Is the mini swirls caused by:
1. I pressed too hard or too soft therefore ineffective?
2. It needs few more pass to remove any swirls?

Thanks for your input...
Old 04-30-2006 | 10:56 AM
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Usually you should be putting no pressure on the machine for waxing, you should just be resting the machine on the car with its own weight and letting the motion of the machine do the work. Its kinda tricky to use this technique to do the side panels, but you just kind of rest the machine on its side and do the panels.

The pad your using is exactly what you need.

Usually when I wax, the swirl marks go away after about 2-3 coats of wax. So you can try adding another coat of wax and see if that helps. But usually you usually shouldn't see swirl marks after a fresh wax.

If you've already tried multiple coats of wax, then the only real thing I can suggest to get rid of the swirl marks is to change waxes or use a polishing compound.

I love zaino, and i think its a amazing and easy to use wax, but if it isn't for you I suggest Meguires NXT tech wax, its a great wax also.

I usually use 3M products and have have good sucess in removing door dings, scuffs and swirl marks from my paint.

http://www.autogeek.net/3mautapprod.html

You would be suprised at what you can buff out if you've never done it before.

Check out this tutorial:

http://www.properautocare.com/usporcabpol.html

For swirl marks all you need is the polish step, using the other compound they are trying to remove deep scuffs in the paint.

Last edited by staticlag; 04-30-2006 at 10:58 AM.
Old 04-30-2006 | 11:05 AM
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Shameless plug of my winning blue:



https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-show-shine-26/zainoed-winning-blue-painted-calipers-etc-56k%3Dno-75831/
Old 05-08-2006 | 10:22 PM
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the giant tastetickles
 
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Ok that's really good
Old 05-16-2006 | 11:44 PM
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I just ordered a porter cable polisher myself. It should be delivered by next week. I'm so excited.
Old 05-17-2006 | 12:42 AM
  #14  
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the giant tastetickles
 
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Please do not try it on your new car yet
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