Barber Motorsports Park - PBOC - Nov 18-19
12-05-2006, 05:13 PM
#477
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Originally Posted by olddragger
hey RS
But for turn 6 at RA for the RX8 per Roar Racing (RX 8 cars) trailbraking(done correctly) equals a faster time through turns 6/7--notice I did not say speed. To add to the headache--sometimes the fastest speed through a corner is not the quickest way through. But generally speaking-- the fastest exit speed from a turn is highly sought!
olddragger
But for turn 6 at RA for the RX8 per Roar Racing (RX 8 cars) trailbraking(done correctly) equals a faster time through turns 6/7--notice I did not say speed. To add to the headache--sometimes the fastest speed through a corner is not the quickest way through. But generally speaking-- the fastest exit speed from a turn is highly sought!
olddragger
12-05-2006, 05:48 PM
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The following hot lap is courtesy of Chris W. Ingle, 2003 Southeast Division T1 National Champion. Chris has in car tapes available from many tracks at http://www.tracktapes.com/.
Overall
Road Atlanta is a great road course located in the north Georgia hills. It boasts one of the longest straight-aways on any track and has some of the best elevation changes anywhere. The track changed a few years ago though. The back straight used to be 5000 ft long and included a series of the scariest curves in all of Motorsports. Everyone knew when they came to Road Atlanta to get ready for "the dip." When the track was changed, they took out the dip and replaced it with a boring (but safer) chicane right at the end of the straight. Instead of keeping your foot planted as you screamed down the hill, now you have to hit the brakes down hill to slow the car to a crawl before entering the slow chicane. Overall though, RA still ranks near the top of all road courses in America and has more than enough for even the veteran driver.
Safety
As stated before, the track is safer than it was, but still has some walls and places to get into trouble, especially at turns 11 and 12. The biggest dangers are the concrete walls which are fairly close to the track. The rest of the track is nice and wide with fairly high curbs and tire walls in front of any dangerous areas.
Hot Lap
The shift points and gearing are relative to my T1 prepared 2001 Corvette Z06 with stock transmission.
Starting down the front straight, you will probably be in 4th gear. The road does slope down just a bit and the pit lane entrance comes out right about where the turn-in point for turn 1 is. You'll need to stay off the left side a few feet because the track juts in right about where you need to turn. You obviously want to use all of the road, but be careful not to drop a wheel off at this point. You'll be under heavy braking, but the track surface is fairly smooth. Turn in with just a touch of trail braking to help plant the front end. The apex is easily visible, but the track is dropping away from you so it's easy to miss it. You must be under power going thru this turn because the exit starts uphill and you'll need the power to get it up it properly. There are two main ways to handle the exit of turn 1. You can blast thru it and use up all the exit and sacrifice speed at the top of the hill or you can track out no more than 2/3 of the way and be under full power all the way to the top of the hill.
The problem is that turn 2 is a small left hand turn at the top of the hill. If you track all the way out at 1, you can't get a good angle for 2. I prefer only tracking out 1/2 - 2/3 of the way so I can be straight coming over the hill - effectively straightening out 2 and having a nice short braking zone for 3. Use this area to downshift and brake in a straight line and set up for 3.
Turn 3 is a quick right. You'll have to brake fairly hard to scrub the speed from 2, but make sure to wait until the car is straight and settled before braking. Use the inside curbing at 3 to help straighten the turn out some and the car will slide thru the corner nicely. You can keep getting faster through here until the car slides out to the outside curbing.
Power thru the corner and then tuck the car in tight for the left hander #4. Don't swing out wide because you'll need to be on the left side of the track exiting 4 for the fast downhill esses. Once the car straightens out, you can either short shift to 4th or stay very high in the revs and stay in 3d. I prefer shifting to 4th because the high revs make my car too twitchy for this next series. It's slightly better to have a car that understeers (push) slightly thru this section. If you have a loose car thru here, it's very difficult to go really fast and under control.
The first turn of the esses is a bit off camber and down hill, but it's important to power down the hill - it settles the car and suspension and helps you get to the apexes. It's also important to keep your head and eyes up thru this section and not follow the curves - straighten them out, but stay under power and control.
I take the entry to the next turn (5) in two parts, but it can be done in just one depending on what kind of car you have and your comfort levels. You can either use 1 braking zone on the entry and sacrifice track space on entry or use 2 braking zones and get back to the right just a bit more to try to carry more speed up the hill. I use 2 zones with the second primarily for a VERY SMOOTH heel and toe shift back to 3d gear. If you're just cruising, you can stay in 4th and use the torque to pull you up the hill. To get really fast lap times though, you'll need 3d gear. Only do this once you get used to the corner and experienced as a driver or else you will end up in the kitty litter (or worse) on the outside of the corner. It's very easy to loop the car here. When you turn in, be under power. You can be nice and tidy and stay off the curbing on the outside or try to hot shoe it thru there and ride the curbing as far out as you dare. I don't really know that one way has shown to be faster than the other. If you have a low car though, the curbing will scrape the bottom of your car and possibly force you to lose control. I strongly advise being nice and tidy to begin with and not going over the curbs.
Once you get straight and come over the hill, get back to the left for turn 6. If you were in 3d going into the corner, you'll need to shift to 4th around the top of the hill. Turn 6 is another right-hander with a down hill braking zone entry. Again, you can choose to stay in 4th gear or downshift smoothly to 3d. This is a much faster corner than what it appears due to the banking. You can even turn in sooner than you think too.
Once you come thru 6, get the car straight immediately and stay to the left for one of the slowest, but most important corner on the track - turn 7. Make sure you don't put a wheel on the left entry curbing because it is quite high and will throw your steering way off. Downshift to 3d (if you stayed in 4th) and trail brake the entry. Turn in crisply and get under power as soon as possible. The inside apex curbing is very high and will throw most suspensions off and unstable the car. The exit curbing is now lower and smoother so you can afford to unwind the wheel quite a bit while powering out. The curbing doesn't last too long though so get stable quickly and back on the tarmac.
From this point, turns 8 and 9 are basically just part of the long back straight. I shift to 4th and take it up to over 6500 rpms and about 155 mph! Turn 9 is a very long sweeping turn, but you can take it flat out with no problem because the tarmac is still smooth enough. Check your gauges and keep your head and eyes up - enjoy the ride!!! Late apex 9 because you'll want to be on the right side of the track for the next turn. Once the car gets straight and you begin down the hill, nail the brakes HARD. Not only is it a down hill braking zone at incredible speeds, but the road has some small humps that increase the distance even further. This is a very difficult area without ABS! Downshift to 3d gear.
Turns 10a and 10b are standard corners and you can ride over the curbings if you have good shocks. The exit of 10b is very tight and up hill with a small, rough curbing on the exit - stay off.
Aim your car about the middle of turn 11 over the top of the hill (about where the lights on the overhead bridge are). Just as the car gets light (can't put the power to the ground), it's a great time to shift to 4th and power down the hill.
Get set up straight on the left side of the track and look at the apex of 12. Your car will follow your eyes so keep your eyes OFF of the concrete wall on the left. Nail the apex of 12 and track out very smoothly thru the start/finish and begin another lap. Turn 12 separates the men from the boys and you will tell immediately if your car is set up properly as you get to the apex. You really want a balanced car at this track, but for the beginners, set your car up to push just slightly. Severe oversteer at 12, the esses or at turn 9 would be very painful and expensive. You'll definitely want to bring at least 2 sets of brakes for this track because the downhill braking zones really test both the brakes and your skills. There are some long straights that keep the brakes fairly cool, but since they changed the track and eliminated 'the dip,' it really takes its toll on the brakes and tires. Enjoy!!
Now he holds the T1 Record at Road Atlanta IIRC at 1.32:7 Hope this Helps P.S. Just to let you know, I didn' post this just because it is a Corvette, I just thought it was some good reading and very simple to understand
Overall
Road Atlanta is a great road course located in the north Georgia hills. It boasts one of the longest straight-aways on any track and has some of the best elevation changes anywhere. The track changed a few years ago though. The back straight used to be 5000 ft long and included a series of the scariest curves in all of Motorsports. Everyone knew when they came to Road Atlanta to get ready for "the dip." When the track was changed, they took out the dip and replaced it with a boring (but safer) chicane right at the end of the straight. Instead of keeping your foot planted as you screamed down the hill, now you have to hit the brakes down hill to slow the car to a crawl before entering the slow chicane. Overall though, RA still ranks near the top of all road courses in America and has more than enough for even the veteran driver.
Safety
As stated before, the track is safer than it was, but still has some walls and places to get into trouble, especially at turns 11 and 12. The biggest dangers are the concrete walls which are fairly close to the track. The rest of the track is nice and wide with fairly high curbs and tire walls in front of any dangerous areas.
Hot Lap
The shift points and gearing are relative to my T1 prepared 2001 Corvette Z06 with stock transmission.
Starting down the front straight, you will probably be in 4th gear. The road does slope down just a bit and the pit lane entrance comes out right about where the turn-in point for turn 1 is. You'll need to stay off the left side a few feet because the track juts in right about where you need to turn. You obviously want to use all of the road, but be careful not to drop a wheel off at this point. You'll be under heavy braking, but the track surface is fairly smooth. Turn in with just a touch of trail braking to help plant the front end. The apex is easily visible, but the track is dropping away from you so it's easy to miss it. You must be under power going thru this turn because the exit starts uphill and you'll need the power to get it up it properly. There are two main ways to handle the exit of turn 1. You can blast thru it and use up all the exit and sacrifice speed at the top of the hill or you can track out no more than 2/3 of the way and be under full power all the way to the top of the hill.
The problem is that turn 2 is a small left hand turn at the top of the hill. If you track all the way out at 1, you can't get a good angle for 2. I prefer only tracking out 1/2 - 2/3 of the way so I can be straight coming over the hill - effectively straightening out 2 and having a nice short braking zone for 3. Use this area to downshift and brake in a straight line and set up for 3.
Turn 3 is a quick right. You'll have to brake fairly hard to scrub the speed from 2, but make sure to wait until the car is straight and settled before braking. Use the inside curbing at 3 to help straighten the turn out some and the car will slide thru the corner nicely. You can keep getting faster through here until the car slides out to the outside curbing.
Power thru the corner and then tuck the car in tight for the left hander #4. Don't swing out wide because you'll need to be on the left side of the track exiting 4 for the fast downhill esses. Once the car straightens out, you can either short shift to 4th or stay very high in the revs and stay in 3d. I prefer shifting to 4th because the high revs make my car too twitchy for this next series. It's slightly better to have a car that understeers (push) slightly thru this section. If you have a loose car thru here, it's very difficult to go really fast and under control.
The first turn of the esses is a bit off camber and down hill, but it's important to power down the hill - it settles the car and suspension and helps you get to the apexes. It's also important to keep your head and eyes up thru this section and not follow the curves - straighten them out, but stay under power and control.
I take the entry to the next turn (5) in two parts, but it can be done in just one depending on what kind of car you have and your comfort levels. You can either use 1 braking zone on the entry and sacrifice track space on entry or use 2 braking zones and get back to the right just a bit more to try to carry more speed up the hill. I use 2 zones with the second primarily for a VERY SMOOTH heel and toe shift back to 3d gear. If you're just cruising, you can stay in 4th and use the torque to pull you up the hill. To get really fast lap times though, you'll need 3d gear. Only do this once you get used to the corner and experienced as a driver or else you will end up in the kitty litter (or worse) on the outside of the corner. It's very easy to loop the car here. When you turn in, be under power. You can be nice and tidy and stay off the curbing on the outside or try to hot shoe it thru there and ride the curbing as far out as you dare. I don't really know that one way has shown to be faster than the other. If you have a low car though, the curbing will scrape the bottom of your car and possibly force you to lose control. I strongly advise being nice and tidy to begin with and not going over the curbs.
Once you get straight and come over the hill, get back to the left for turn 6. If you were in 3d going into the corner, you'll need to shift to 4th around the top of the hill. Turn 6 is another right-hander with a down hill braking zone entry. Again, you can choose to stay in 4th gear or downshift smoothly to 3d. This is a much faster corner than what it appears due to the banking. You can even turn in sooner than you think too.
Once you come thru 6, get the car straight immediately and stay to the left for one of the slowest, but most important corner on the track - turn 7. Make sure you don't put a wheel on the left entry curbing because it is quite high and will throw your steering way off. Downshift to 3d (if you stayed in 4th) and trail brake the entry. Turn in crisply and get under power as soon as possible. The inside apex curbing is very high and will throw most suspensions off and unstable the car. The exit curbing is now lower and smoother so you can afford to unwind the wheel quite a bit while powering out. The curbing doesn't last too long though so get stable quickly and back on the tarmac.
From this point, turns 8 and 9 are basically just part of the long back straight. I shift to 4th and take it up to over 6500 rpms and about 155 mph! Turn 9 is a very long sweeping turn, but you can take it flat out with no problem because the tarmac is still smooth enough. Check your gauges and keep your head and eyes up - enjoy the ride!!! Late apex 9 because you'll want to be on the right side of the track for the next turn. Once the car gets straight and you begin down the hill, nail the brakes HARD. Not only is it a down hill braking zone at incredible speeds, but the road has some small humps that increase the distance even further. This is a very difficult area without ABS! Downshift to 3d gear.
Turns 10a and 10b are standard corners and you can ride over the curbings if you have good shocks. The exit of 10b is very tight and up hill with a small, rough curbing on the exit - stay off.
Aim your car about the middle of turn 11 over the top of the hill (about where the lights on the overhead bridge are). Just as the car gets light (can't put the power to the ground), it's a great time to shift to 4th and power down the hill.
Get set up straight on the left side of the track and look at the apex of 12. Your car will follow your eyes so keep your eyes OFF of the concrete wall on the left. Nail the apex of 12 and track out very smoothly thru the start/finish and begin another lap. Turn 12 separates the men from the boys and you will tell immediately if your car is set up properly as you get to the apex. You really want a balanced car at this track, but for the beginners, set your car up to push just slightly. Severe oversteer at 12, the esses or at turn 9 would be very painful and expensive. You'll definitely want to bring at least 2 sets of brakes for this track because the downhill braking zones really test both the brakes and your skills. There are some long straights that keep the brakes fairly cool, but since they changed the track and eliminated 'the dip,' it really takes its toll on the brakes and tires. Enjoy!!
Now he holds the T1 Record at Road Atlanta IIRC at 1.32:7 Hope this Helps P.S. Just to let you know, I didn' post this just because it is a Corvette, I just thought it was some good reading and very simple to understand
Last edited by vette6autox; 12-05-2006 at 05:59 PM.
12-05-2006, 06:30 PM
#479
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Hey guys, what do you guys run at CMP? I have alot more seat-time there or even Roebling, compared to Road Atlanta. I know what the RX guys do, but I was curious abou other instructors......
Have you had the pleasure at either of those tracks?
Have you had the pleasure at either of those tracks?
12-05-2006, 06:37 PM
#480
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GA guys, I just uploaded the latest update to the 2007 track schedule. It's color coded for the event organization to make it eaiser for us to see at a glance what's up. Please let me know if there are any more events that need to be included. Also I'm putting in the spectator events such as Petit Le Mans and Barber Grand Am so let me know as soon as you find out those dates that may have some effect on our schedule.
http://garx8club.com/HPDE_Events.php
Thanks Ya'll!
http://garx8club.com/HPDE_Events.php
Thanks Ya'll!
12-05-2006, 06:39 PM
#481
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I haven't but I would like to. It's hard for me to schedule very far out because of my buisness. The track that I want to go to in the next couple of years Laguna Seca. That track has got to be a blast. David
12-05-2006, 06:45 PM
#482
Great Post vette 6. That was a really good discription of the track. I think most of us 8 guys follow what he is saying until turn 7. ( i try to do a little thing in 6 i believe you have heard off)
We dont trailbrake into 7. Matter of fact i dont know of anyone in our group that has done that by choice. We get the braking done before 7 and then it's on the gas as we enter. we do a late apex on it and I guess since we dont have to worry as much about the rear end on exit as the cars with a lot more torque we are at full pedal as we exit.. Differant cars have to be driven in differant ways? For example braking into 10a is not as hairy for us since our speeds are only 125-130 we do have abs and really good brakes. Heck we dont even have to change pads often at all --maybe once every 6 w/e's are so--maybe less than that. result of lighter(i think) cars and slower speeds. We also brake early at turn one.Finish braking actually before the turn, and then hard acceleration begins even before the turn in. Like I have said before --you have to trust the banking to catch you. Great feeling when it does --like riding a turning roller coster. But then again we are at sustancially slower speeds. Our (RX8) front straight speeds are about 118 or so.
Enjoyed that post.
olddragger
We dont trailbrake into 7. Matter of fact i dont know of anyone in our group that has done that by choice. We get the braking done before 7 and then it's on the gas as we enter. we do a late apex on it and I guess since we dont have to worry as much about the rear end on exit as the cars with a lot more torque we are at full pedal as we exit.. Differant cars have to be driven in differant ways? For example braking into 10a is not as hairy for us since our speeds are only 125-130 we do have abs and really good brakes. Heck we dont even have to change pads often at all --maybe once every 6 w/e's are so--maybe less than that. result of lighter(i think) cars and slower speeds. We also brake early at turn one.Finish braking actually before the turn, and then hard acceleration begins even before the turn in. Like I have said before --you have to trust the banking to catch you. Great feeling when it does --like riding a turning roller coster. But then again we are at sustancially slower speeds. Our (RX8) front straight speeds are about 118 or so.
Enjoyed that post.
olddragger
12-05-2006, 06:47 PM
#483
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Silver, don't foget our PDX on June 30 and July 1. We are going to be there the following weekend with our club race at Barbers. Barbers will be posting their schedule soon on their web sight. You can also go to our web site at ALSCCA.ORG for updates the closer we get to the events. Thanks, David.
12-05-2006, 06:56 PM
#484
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Originally Posted by olddragger
Great Post vette 6. That was a really good discription of the track. Heck we dont even have to change pads often at all --maybe once every 6 w/e's are so--maybe less than that. resulolddragger
Last edited by vette6autox; 12-05-2006 at 07:00 PM.
12-05-2006, 07:06 PM
#485
xp 12's ? Damn hope your dentures are glued in good.
I am running the xp 8's--they are good pads. We are lucky that the stock rotors do well --even the pro boys run them. I have (now dont cry) 42000 miles on my front rotors and 2 yrs of track events and they are still good! But like I said --we also dont have the speed yall have. Does this mean i can track AND go to Sammy's?
OD
I am running the xp 8's--they are good pads. We are lucky that the stock rotors do well --even the pro boys run them. I have (now dont cry) 42000 miles on my front rotors and 2 yrs of track events and they are still good! But like I said --we also dont have the speed yall have. Does this mean i can track AND go to Sammy's?
OD
12-05-2006, 07:12 PM
#486
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I would, typically, get around 2 weekends out of a set of pads. But, I got them free from Hawk, and I got rotors free from Racing Brake, so I wasn't too worried about chewing them up. Still, I had to bleed them religiously to keep the Brems from boiling the Motul. Vented them just before I sold the car, I mean SERIOUS venting. Seemed to lower the temps a good bit, but I never got a chance to push the car. I think the fastest I got at CmP was 1:50 flat. With new tires, and pushing the car, 1:47's should be about right. Jon K went 1:43:40 in AMS evo that same weekend, and Mark Daddio went 1:45 in Martins personal car, which was running the same setup as me, but with 100more whp.
12-05-2006, 07:26 PM
#487
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The car stops good. It will just about detach your rettinas LOL. Before I went to the 6 pot stoptechs, I would go threw a set of pads and 4 rotors in a weekend. The rotors weren't bad, $27 apeace From NAPA. I was getting them from Autozone with a lifetime warranty, but they caught on to my tricks. Game over. David
12-05-2006, 09:07 PM
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That's a great sched. Don, Thanks! I'll have to post a link from our website. David, you should be on those new xp16s by now, I think you are.
Yeah RA being hard on brakes, 2007 grand marquis, 9000 miles, new front pads installed on Sun morning at Peachtree event in Oct. Of course I didn't need to turn rotors because the metal to metal backing plate to rotor turned all of the old material out for me. Countless Motul bleedes and musical wheel/tires. Under 2 minutes though! Duralast lifetimes, should be good with the next rental! Some guy walked by and asked if I was going to charge the rental company for servicing their car.
Yeah RA being hard on brakes, 2007 grand marquis, 9000 miles, new front pads installed on Sun morning at Peachtree event in Oct. Of course I didn't need to turn rotors because the metal to metal backing plate to rotor turned all of the old material out for me. Countless Motul bleedes and musical wheel/tires. Under 2 minutes though! Duralast lifetimes, should be good with the next rental! Some guy walked by and asked if I was going to charge the rental company for servicing their car.
12-05-2006, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by vette6autox
I haven't but I would like to. It's hard for me to schedule very far out because of my buisness. The track that I want to go to in the next couple of years Laguna Seca. That track has got to be a blast. David
12-06-2006, 07:04 AM
#491
who all has not ran Roebling since they resurfaced? That is a really fun track and it has shade in the pits. If i can just get sorted from having fuel starvation issues ( I think the turn number is 5--the last left hander before the carousel) in that one turn it will be a lot better.
Yea Silver absoulutely a great idea with the schecule. I will start my fun at the March RA Nasa event. Until then I will be only watching and wishing.
Everyone seems to love Barber--maybe I can work one of those in too. I have never ran that track--would have to start out slow.
Advice please--I have to get a new set of R's---17"--Kumho doesnt have the size I need and the only other that I am somewhat famiar with is the RA's I have been thinking about getting some hoosiers. They do have the size I like. ? is, will I see a lot/some differance with the hoosiers or should I just stay with the RA's. Dont judge your asnwer on my driving in the TA video "following Oldragger" I was only playing around there
--except for that one pass in 6.
Merry Christmas all!
Olddragger
Yea Silver absoulutely a great idea with the schecule. I will start my fun at the March RA Nasa event. Until then I will be only watching and wishing.
Everyone seems to love Barber--maybe I can work one of those in too. I have never ran that track--would have to start out slow.
Advice please--I have to get a new set of R's---17"--Kumho doesnt have the size I need and the only other that I am somewhat famiar with is the RA's I have been thinking about getting some hoosiers. They do have the size I like. ? is, will I see a lot/some differance with the hoosiers or should I just stay with the RA's. Dont judge your asnwer on my driving in the TA video "following Oldragger" I was only playing around there
--except for that one pass in 6.
Merry Christmas all!
Olddragger
12-06-2006, 07:32 AM
#492
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OD,
As I have only had the RA1's and the Cups, I would highly recommend the RA1's. They have a lot more grip, wear about the same, and are cheaper than the Cups. Plus, the RA1's have a predictable grip while they warm up, the Cups didn't grip until they where up to temp. As far as Hoosiers - I have no idea?
As I have only had the RA1's and the Cups, I would highly recommend the RA1's. They have a lot more grip, wear about the same, and are cheaper than the Cups. Plus, the RA1's have a predictable grip while they warm up, the Cups didn't grip until they where up to temp. As far as Hoosiers - I have no idea?
12-06-2006, 08:56 AM
#493
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HOOSIER: If money is no object...
http://www.bobwoodmantires.com/hoosier/hoostiretip.htm
Disclaimer: I'm not a 10/10s driver nor a pro suspension guy.
When I run treaded tires I use Azenis 615. To date, when I've run R's I've used Hoosiers. My cobra is stiffly sprung, -3.5 degree camber front/-.5degree rear, 0 toe, Porterfield R4 pads. Weight with driver is 2300. Tire size is 275x40/17.
Reference point: I can lock the Azenis under braking way,way easier than I can lock the Hoosiers. I haven't noticed the Hoosiers breaking loose abruptly under corning, at least they haven't surprised me...yet.
Wear issues. I don't take accurate tire temps, but the visible surface wear with my setup, is ok. I did 5 DE weekends on one set...repeat I'm not a 10/10th's driver yet. The corvette and mustang guys must eat them up. The car feels more nimble with the Hoosiers.
You got nothing to apologise for. I see good driving in trackaddict's vid
.
Bob S.
Disclaimer: I'm not a 10/10s driver nor a pro suspension guy.
When I run treaded tires I use Azenis 615. To date, when I've run R's I've used Hoosiers. My cobra is stiffly sprung, -3.5 degree camber front/-.5degree rear, 0 toe, Porterfield R4 pads. Weight with driver is 2300. Tire size is 275x40/17.
Reference point: I can lock the Azenis under braking way,way easier than I can lock the Hoosiers. I haven't noticed the Hoosiers breaking loose abruptly under corning, at least they haven't surprised me...yet.
Wear issues. I don't take accurate tire temps, but the visible surface wear with my setup, is ok. I did 5 DE weekends on one set...repeat I'm not a 10/10th's driver yet. The corvette and mustang guys must eat them up. The car feels more nimble with the Hoosiers.
You got nothing to apologise for. I see good driving in trackaddict's vid
.Bob S.
12-06-2006, 11:43 AM
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BTW: the Hoosiers I drove were R4/andR5's. I don't know anything about the latest R6's.
OD, I don't notice the heat much, I'm usually too scared. But I do remember to keep my chin down...the wind likes to pull the front of the helmet up over my eyes
Can't wait to get to those tracks up north.
Bob S.
OD, I don't notice the heat much, I'm usually too scared. But I do remember to keep my chin down...the wind likes to pull the front of the helmet up over my eyes
Can't wait to get to those tracks up north.
Bob S.
12-06-2006, 12:17 PM
#496
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You guys are driving me freaking nuts to get back out on the track! Especially vettee6's post on how Chris Ingle drives Road Atlanta. That was just about too much for me to handle. I think the only place that is much different between the Vette and the 8's way I drive is turn 5. I will ALWAYS be shifting into 3rd. There is no way to take that hill in 4th with an 8 and maintain any speed. Or maybe I should say, the way I drive it. I'm also not familiar with the two parts deal. Also, as we all know the speed on the back straight sucks for our car and for me is only around 125. I believe Marietta 8 hits 128 to 130 but he is able to shift to 5th, which means he is blasting out of T7.
12-06-2006, 12:24 PM
#497
RX8+Boost+AWD=Evo8
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I will chime in here, as I have some experience with tires.
My first love was the Azeni 215's, great grip, and unless you had tons of suspension work, you wouldn't see much benefit from an R compound tire (unless you were a very good driver). HOwever, the grip was short-lived, and they could be cooked in two three laps under hard driving.
then, the 615, almost as good grip, but this time Falken got it right, no fade until deep in lap numbers.
followed this up with the RA1's. My personal favorite for a while, until the Evo shoot-out when we tesetd Hoosiers, RA1's and Nittos back to back.
The end result was this, (btw, Mark Daddio was driving, not me), Nittos were consistently two tenths faster than the Hoosiers, however, I feel on longer runs they may fade away a touch more. RA1's were 8/10 of a second per 1M of lap time slower than the Nitto. For instance at CMP, had I had a new set of Nittos, I would have qualified high 1:48's rather than 1:50 flat on the RA1's, changing nothing but tires. Mark Daddio got very low street times in a lightly modded Evo (like mine).
Again, this was in the heat of summer (95+) days at CMP.
My first love was the Azeni 215's, great grip, and unless you had tons of suspension work, you wouldn't see much benefit from an R compound tire (unless you were a very good driver). HOwever, the grip was short-lived, and they could be cooked in two three laps under hard driving.
then, the 615, almost as good grip, but this time Falken got it right, no fade until deep in lap numbers.
followed this up with the RA1's. My personal favorite for a while, until the Evo shoot-out when we tesetd Hoosiers, RA1's and Nittos back to back.
The end result was this, (btw, Mark Daddio was driving, not me), Nittos were consistently two tenths faster than the Hoosiers, however, I feel on longer runs they may fade away a touch more. RA1's were 8/10 of a second per 1M of lap time slower than the Nitto. For instance at CMP, had I had a new set of Nittos, I would have qualified high 1:48's rather than 1:50 flat on the RA1's, changing nothing but tires. Mark Daddio got very low street times in a lightly modded Evo (like mine).
Again, this was in the heat of summer (95+) days at CMP.
Last edited by Stop&TurnFreak; 12-06-2006 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Mistake in comparison
12-06-2006, 05:39 PM
#498
Ok so in summary
Nitto's--fastest until they get hot?
Hoosiers -2/10's slower per minute of lap time at cmp maybe until the nittos get too warm?
RA-1's --slowest but a work horse of a tire?
Doesnt hoosier cheat on it's size a little-I mean a 245 size is wider on a hoosier than on say the nitto?
Does hoosiers still wear fast or did the changes with the R6 help with that.
Nothing like having so many resources for information--love the net.!!
OD
Nitto's--fastest until they get hot?
Hoosiers -2/10's slower per minute of lap time at cmp maybe until the nittos get too warm?
RA-1's --slowest but a work horse of a tire?
Doesnt hoosier cheat on it's size a little-I mean a 245 size is wider on a hoosier than on say the nitto?
Does hoosiers still wear fast or did the changes with the R6 help with that.
Nothing like having so many resources for information--love the net.!!
OD
12-06-2006, 05:49 PM
#499
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In summary, um, yes. What I was shocked over was the RA1's. I would have thought they would have been closer, but their not. Now, the 888's , they were pretty close, still not as fast as the Nitto though. (Pop quiz, who knows what the 888 is)?
, they were pretty close, still not as fast as the Nitto though. (Pop quiz, who knows what the 888 is)?