MoodDude

I always thought that 888 was slang for a 38 caliber gun.

Stop&TurnFreak

It is going to replace the RA1, we had an early run of them for testing.

vette6autox

The only tire that have run on my car are hoosiers. The R6s are a lot better tire than the previous modles. Where I was getting one weekend out of a set,I am now gettig two weekends out of the R6s. The R6 has a little more grip than the R5s did and they dont seem to fall off as quick as the R5s. David

Stop&TurnFreak

We didn't have a set of the new Hoosiers to test, but I have also heard good things out of them.

If you are only getting two weekends out of a set, you must really be pushing it. I usually get 3-5 track weekends out of a set. However, I was heavier, and had less horsepower, so I wasn't carrying the momemtum you would have been.

MoodDude

OD -
Why don't you call John Berget Racing Tires and get a few different sets of used tires and try them out for yourself. A cheap way to see if you will like the tire and if a certain size will fit on your car. That way you will know what you want to buy when you get the new ones.

Vette6autox - I feel for your pocket book. Right now, I am getting about 24 hours of hot track time on RA1's, and since I track with Chin a lot that would mean 3 weekends. Probably as I progress in my skills, I will get less and less time.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Good info guys--thanks.
My size--that I prefer--is small to most of us here--it's at 235 or 245/40/17. I like keeping my tire short(and light) so my final drive ratio is lower. Need a tire (for 17 "wheel) approx 24.5"tall. At this point I think I will probably go with the r6's.
Mood Dude--yep John is a great resource for us track guys. He is the man I got my Ra's from--great guy --great service.
Vette 6-- I was wondering about the wear factor for the R6's--glad it is better that the 5's. I heard that the 5's are a very soft compound that wears fast.
I only run a 1.9 neg chamber up front--I hope that is enough to take advantage of the new design of the 6's.
Man--between brakes and tires --leaves no beer/nudie bar money! If we are at the track together--come on over and we will fix you up!(after the day is over of course---NASAspies are everywhere----jk) I think Nabil still has his G string.
olddragger

Stop&TurnFreak

Since I have no car to feed right now, there is LOTS of money for struggling women, who are trying to support their way through nursing/med/vet/etc school.

MoodDude

STF - Thanks for the video, Warmpepsi (Brian) now wants to go to RA. And what about throwing some of that money to struggling track addicts?

L8APEX

the only struggling you are doing, is struggling to get more time off work for more track.

MoodDude

Yea - I guess so.

STF - thought you might like this picture of Warmpepsi and me:

Stop&TurnFreak

Nice pic, I have to ask, who's car is faster .

MoodDude

Well, at Sebring - we are very well matched. Brian is by far the better driver, yet my horse power makes up for my lack of skills, and at Sebring hp means a lot. Now if we where at Barber, then Brian would be gone. Of coarse both of us had fun passing the Panoz race cars and the GT3 Cup cars at Sebring.

vette6autox

[QUOTE=olddragger]Good info guys--thanks.
Vette 6-- I was wondering about the wear factor for the R6's--glad it is better that the 5's. I heard that the 5's are a very soft compound that wears fast.
I only run a 1.9 neg chamber up front--I hope that is enough to take advantage of the new design of the 6's.
The set up on the old vette is -2.3 camber front all the caster I can get, 1/4" tow out front -2 camber on the back with 1/4' toe in-in on the back. Unfortunatlymy tire size is315/30/18. It hurts my wallet every time I say that.

MoodDude

[QUOTE=vette6autox]I feel your pain! That is why I started using used tires! Make those sizes affordable to run R compounds.

Stop&TurnFreak

I don't miss buying tires, that is for sure.

STF

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Holey cow--thats a lotta rubber on the road! Running a 10" wheel with that? A bulldozer would have a hard time pushing that car sideways! Welll--maybe not.
Nice settings---i dont think you are driving that vette every day are ya? Conservative settings on our daily drivers let us get more time out of tires but also restricts our speeds in the turns some. With that much rubber and the speed you guys carry--i better understand how the pads and rotors are getting eaten.
Ditto--I also feel your pain!
OD

Stop&TurnFreak

My alignment on the Evo (street/track) was the following.

Slight (and I do mean slight) touch of toe-in in the back, rear camber was @-1.8, and the front was -3.1 with a touch (again touch) of toe-out. The spring rates were @10k F/R and the dampening was dynamic between 8k-12k. On high speed tracks, I would run a little softer rear, to compensate for the high speed stability mid corner, and on low speed tracks, I would run full rear sway (adjustable), and full stiff out back for crisp turn-in. I had to do more than most Evo owners, because I upgraded my front sway to something quite larger, to assist on high-speed mid corner hold. Overall, the car was great, there wasn't a track isn't wan't quick at, and considering I didn't have a front LSD, it did do really well. That was my next mod, before I got stupid on the street, and lost the opportunity to drive a car like that (longer story).

vette6autox

I'm running 10.5" wheels on all four corners for two reasons. 1) I can cross rotate my tires 2) The car has no push or oversteer, completly neutral. The down side is at around 160 the car starts to do a little wandering, but nothing severe.No, the vette is a dedicated track car. When I purchased the car in April of 03 it had 4 miles on the clock. Now it has 21000miles of which about 3000 are street miles, the rest are on the track. What is real cool is I have track mate and in turn 13 at Barbers, I recorded a 2.1 latteral g in that turn. At most of the longer flatter turns I'm hitting 1.5 to 1.6Gs.I have some suspension mods but nothing great. Just T1 sway bars T1 shocks poly upper and lower bushings an Baer end links. My next upgrade is going to be some coilovers and adjustable sway bars. David

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

dang David------ 18000 miles on the track. I know the vettes are tough cars --but Chevy needs to sponsor you. Excellant example of quality. Even understanding that stop and go driving is harder on an engine at times, 18,000 track miles is worth mentioning. Learn something every day.
2.1 G's. Thats heavy I havent felt that since i stopped riding the big block chevy's down the 1/4 mile. Remember the aluminum headed 396 engine? The one with factory 11.5 compression? One hell of a motor. I ran a slighly modified one in a 55 chevy in the years of 1967-1968. I didnt have data aq but I think I was feeling some G's.I learned about quence, thermodistorsion/torque distorsion, port flow, exhaust valve coatings and things like that. Then I bought a rotory car and all of that doesnt matter anymore.
Although the little rotary engine we have is an amazing thing(for example only 3 moving parts) I do miss being able target a horsepower/torque number and then mod to reach it. That engine of yours for example can easily be made into a 610hp daily driver with a great torque curve. We Renasis engine guys struggle to gain 5hp. For real gains you HAVE to FI and our 32 bit chip x 2 ecu is a hard nut to crack. Never the less we enjoy a challage and the one of a kind thing we have. Would you believe a 270 degree flame front? Hot, baby, Hot. and loss of power.
I have been thinking about approaching the guys and asking if anyone wanted to partner a data system. So you have the track mate---with video? Looks like a good system.
It will be cool to watch you and your car on the track this spring.I will come around when you pit and help you fan the front brakes and give your ride a long student some baby wipes so he can clean himself. lol. The 1st time I rode with Jeff in his C-5 he broke the tail loose a little coming out of turn 5 at RA and I asked him where did he want a grab bar(vettes dont have them) because I was going to immediately make one somewhere.
olddragger

vette6autox

OD, like I said in one of the previous post, my friend owns the GTP lights factory Mazda. It is a neet loking car. What is the next event you guys are going to? I was going to Seabring to race at Winterfest with PBOC, but I have a couple of houses to close the end of Jan. and its just me to finish them so I'm not going to get to go. When I was in high school a buddy of mine had a 69 Chevelle with a 427 al. head tri power. That car was wicked! As far as my engine, I recently made it a 383. I had it on the dyno and it has a very conservative tune( A/F ratios at 12:1) and it put down 480rwhp/456rwtq . It has a TREX camshaft Lunati pro mod rods, Eagle crank,afr 205 heads, FAST 90 intake, LS2 throtle body 90 mm, long tubes, 52lb injectors. Last week I ordered an ARE dry sump for it. They say it is suppose to give me about 15 to 20 more hp,but who knows. I am ready to smell some brakes burning. David

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I here ya man. my next event unfortunaly is not until march at Road Atl. with Nasa. Silvereight has a schecule of all our events and who is going.
So it's a stroker motor. Little surprised you didnt go with a 225 head and a higher lift cam--but then again it aint all about power is it? AF's 12:1 ? Really conservative---but it sure helps in making it solid also. No cooling issues, no detination issues etc.
Dry sump will be nice. Many more quarts to change when it is time though.
Ever considered using the solid rail rocker guides? You would have to machine those purdy heads but no more high rpm float and a gain of about 10 on the top end. They look good too.
OD

vette6autox

Not worth the money for 10 horsepower. The trex cam specs are 608/614 242/248 at 110-2. I dont think I can run the 225 afr because of the bore. Valves are to big. The stock lifters and rockers are good for 7000rpm. I have the redline set at 6800 and peak power is at 6200. I have started working on a LS7 block for the next transformation. I am hoping with the right combo to put down around 625rwhp. Time will tell. David

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I have a build for a 383--610 hp street motor without dry sump system , but with electric water pump. It has a good torque curve.
Yep --heads and cam go together(dont forget compression--going to be under 11--right?)
If you get REALLY serious about it--- get the cylinders honed using torque plates AND a warming systen. The block needs to be at running temp and torqued down to get the bore true---that can equal 25hp--believe it or not. I am probably preaching to the choir here--sorry--its just fun to speak big block every now and then
olddragger

L8APEX

all of that went SO FAR over my head...

legokcen

I think they are talking about piston engines of all things, but I'm not sure. If it doesn't have rotors, it doesn't have a motor...