NASA July 15/16 2006 at Carolina Motorsports Park
#102
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Originally Posted by Stop&TurnFreak
I have already registered...... I also, already have the tires.... I will be on RA1s for the Evo event, and on Goodyear slicks in Road Atlanta. I am shooting for 1:35's with my new turbo kit, which 'hopefully' will be on the car by then. The car makes 310whp now, with the kit, I will be pushing 390whp on mild setup, and up to 500whp if I want it.
#103
I miss my 'Bu
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Well after battling with a really loose car the past 2 events, today I reinstalled the stock rear sway bar. Hopefully that will tame it a bit.
I also was able to fix my fog light that looked a bit cross eyed after my spin onto the banking at The Rock a few weeks ago. One of the pivot points had popped out of it's socket when the under tray scraped while spinning off the apron and onto the steep bank.
I hope to have a new set of brake pads to put on next weekend. I'll do a quick bleed as well and go over the front suspension and check every nut and bolt to make sure all is tight. I checked out the rear suspension today while I was swapping the sway bar. I'll change the oil too at some point before CMP. Even though I barely have a 1000 miles on the oil, I figure I cooked it well at The Rock and could use some good clean stuff. Hopefully I'll also change out the rear diff fluid.
Finally, I hope to have a couple replacement tires after toasting one at the last event. Geez, this hobby gets expensive in a hurry.
In the mail are 4 quarts of Idemitsu rotary pre-mix. I am going to finally listen to OD and put 4 ozs per tankful on the track and see how it goes. I doubt I'll feel any different...
I also was able to fix my fog light that looked a bit cross eyed after my spin onto the banking at The Rock a few weeks ago. One of the pivot points had popped out of it's socket when the under tray scraped while spinning off the apron and onto the steep bank.
I hope to have a new set of brake pads to put on next weekend. I'll do a quick bleed as well and go over the front suspension and check every nut and bolt to make sure all is tight. I checked out the rear suspension today while I was swapping the sway bar. I'll change the oil too at some point before CMP. Even though I barely have a 1000 miles on the oil, I figure I cooked it well at The Rock and could use some good clean stuff. Hopefully I'll also change out the rear diff fluid.
Finally, I hope to have a couple replacement tires after toasting one at the last event. Geez, this hobby gets expensive in a hurry.
In the mail are 4 quarts of Idemitsu rotary pre-mix. I am going to finally listen to OD and put 4 ozs per tankful on the track and see how it goes. I doubt I'll feel any different...
Last edited by TrackAddict; 07-02-2006 at 09:21 PM.
#104
The Turkish Delight
Alright, this is not RX-8 related, but if I can get by buddy to tow it, the 7 is coming to CMP!
Just put on the adjustable Koni's, springs, adjustable front sway, & strut bar. Also have 225-50-13 Hoosier R3S04's. We'll see which one makes it. Keeping the fingers crossed....
Here's the suspension install....
Just put on the adjustable Koni's, springs, adjustable front sway, & strut bar. Also have 225-50-13 Hoosier R3S04's. We'll see which one makes it. Keeping the fingers crossed....
Here's the suspension install....
#108
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Oh yea on the premix- i strongly suggest 1/2 oz per gallon 16 gals=8oz. 1/4 oz is ok--wont hurt. But on the otherhand this is your 1st premix so see how the car reacts with that. I dont think you are going to notice any change in performance(you already have a high hp car) but it may make idle a little better.
Olddragger
Olddragger
#109
The Turkish Delight
Originally Posted by olddragger
Man I cant even get it all done on ONE car and here you are doing 2! Looks good Lego!
#110
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please do I learned a long doing those myself and would be glad to share. If I could make a suggestion, you do need water and oil temps in the 8. The oil pressure on my 8 was a surprise also.I will NOT run 5/20 in mine ever again. Dang thing with oil temp at only 180F would not carry the normal oil pressure range at 3K per manuel(52lbs) that Mazda said it should be when the oil was at 212F! With 5/30 Royal purple it would--no problem and when I put 10W/30 RP in instead of having the recommended 52lbs at 3K I now have about 65!Plus engine is smoother.
I will pass on another hint---run the a/c in the hot weather! Just sitting at a red light without the a/c on(so no fans on) the water temp will go up 20degress F, jump from 175-195 just stopped for a red light(ambient temp 94F)!! With air on it will rise maybe 5 degrees. I know the thermostat doesnt stay fully open til 205degrees(or so)-- I just like to keep her cool.
Sorry for the rambling---but yes just give a shout out and I will do whatever I can.
OD
I will pass on another hint---run the a/c in the hot weather! Just sitting at a red light without the a/c on(so no fans on) the water temp will go up 20degress F, jump from 175-195 just stopped for a red light(ambient temp 94F)!! With air on it will rise maybe 5 degrees. I know the thermostat doesnt stay fully open til 205degrees(or so)-- I just like to keep her cool.
Sorry for the rambling---but yes just give a shout out and I will do whatever I can.
OD
#111
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If you use the racing beat adapter plates and the auto meter mechanical gauges BE SURE to specify that you need the 3/8 fitting adaptors(both oil and water temps). The gauges comes with a 1/2 fitting and home depo /lowes adaptors /stuff will NOT work--wrong type of internal flange. So INSIST that you need the 3/8 ADAPTORS when you order your gauges.
OD
OD
#112
Ahead of its time
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Originally Posted by olddragger
... Dang thing with oil temp at only 180F would not carry the normal oil pressure range at 3K per manuel(52lbs) that Mazda said it should be when the oil was at 212F!...
#113
The Turkish Delight
I'm getting really excited about this event now! Car will be prepped this week. The back seats are already out. I also just got a driver to passenger communication system in case my instructor doesn't have one. I'm stoked!
#115
I miss my 'Bu
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Originally Posted by olddragger
please do I learned a long doing those myself and would be glad to share. If I could make a suggestion, you do need water and oil temps in the 8. The oil pressure on my 8 was a surprise also.I will NOT run 5/20 in mine ever again. Dang thing with oil temp at only 180F would not carry the normal oil pressure range at 3K per manuel(52lbs) that Mazda said it should be when the oil was at 212F! With 5/30 Royal purple it would--no problem and when I put 10W/30 RP in instead of having the recommended 52lbs at 3K I now have about 65!Plus engine is smoother.
I will pass on another hint---run the a/c in the hot weather! Just sitting at a red light without the a/c on(so no fans on) the water temp will go up 20degress F, jump from 175-195 just stopped for a red light(ambient temp 94F)!! With air on it will rise maybe 5 degrees. I know the thermostat doesnt stay fully open til 205degrees(or so)-- I just like to keep her cool.
Sorry for the rambling---but yes just give a shout out and I will do whatever I can.
OD
I will pass on another hint---run the a/c in the hot weather! Just sitting at a red light without the a/c on(so no fans on) the water temp will go up 20degress F, jump from 175-195 just stopped for a red light(ambient temp 94F)!! With air on it will rise maybe 5 degrees. I know the thermostat doesnt stay fully open til 205degrees(or so)-- I just like to keep her cool.
Sorry for the rambling---but yes just give a shout out and I will do whatever I can.
OD
First I am not really familiar with aftermarket gauges - How do you know the readings are accurate? Do they have to be calibrated?
If they are accurate, how does the oil work at low temps like at start up? Is there any ill effects to mixing 10/30 with the 5/20 still in the system after an oil change?
Are temps different with the heavier oil?
Thanks
#116
Hey guys, long time no post. I am, probably, not going to be running CMP. I have my race this weekend, and this will be my 6 straight day at CMP. Frankly, I am a little bored of the track now, not to mention, if I say I am going back there for 8/9th time, my wife will shoot me.
The good news is I have a set of 245/40 V700s and a set of RA1 255/40's too. I have 8 R compounds, what good news. . I will be ready for Road Atlanta.
You guys be good down there, i may ride down with Steve to hang on Saturday. I definitely want to get a good look at Lego's car.
The good news is I have a set of 245/40 V700s and a set of RA1 255/40's too. I have 8 R compounds, what good news. . I will be ready for Road Atlanta.
You guys be good down there, i may ride down with Steve to hang on Saturday. I definitely want to get a good look at Lego's car.
#117
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Val I stand corrected --it is 50.2 but with 5w/20RP at 3k my car with a mechanical gauge(reportively more accuate) hooked up with rb's adaptor (about a few inches from where the dealership would check the pressure) and the oil temp at 180, would be making around 48 pounds. if the oil is at 212 i dont know. the only placed my oil has gotten that hot is on the track and i wasnt at 3 k long enough to check! Oil on the street has gotten to 205 and then it would still be about 48. With the 5/30 no problems at 3k it is about 55 or so and with the 10w 30 royal purple I have a little more cushion.
TA- discussions can go on for days about the accuacy of gauges readings. on any fluids there will be hotter spots in the engine, depends on the site the readings are coming from etc. Best one can do is to buy good gauges--most believe mechanial gauges are more accuate, some will argue that point. I like mechanical because that is want i am used too. I used rb's sensor adaptors.
Now cold starts with this weight oil is no problems. It is higher when it is cold of course---pressure with my 10w/30 on start up is 75-80. Stays that way maybe 5 minutes or so.
Please do remember that in in other countries the rx8 manuel instructs the owner to use oil viscosity according to their ambient tempts --not one size fits all like in the U.S. Heck Speed Source on the track runs a 20w/50 and Jay Goldberg runs a 10w/40 on the track(track day/street car).
Heavier weight oils per theory are not suppose to cool as well but I have not noticed any differance in temps at all. Summer temps I think are more affective by the fans thn the oil(did you know RB's new flash allows the fans to turn on sooner?) ( also another new Mazda flash may be coming soon--another one not the current another one)
No harm in mixing differant weight oils at all.
My car is running better than it has ever run.
If anyone is interested in putting gauges in their car I would be more than glad to help.
olddragger
TA- discussions can go on for days about the accuacy of gauges readings. on any fluids there will be hotter spots in the engine, depends on the site the readings are coming from etc. Best one can do is to buy good gauges--most believe mechanial gauges are more accuate, some will argue that point. I like mechanical because that is want i am used too. I used rb's sensor adaptors.
Now cold starts with this weight oil is no problems. It is higher when it is cold of course---pressure with my 10w/30 on start up is 75-80. Stays that way maybe 5 minutes or so.
Please do remember that in in other countries the rx8 manuel instructs the owner to use oil viscosity according to their ambient tempts --not one size fits all like in the U.S. Heck Speed Source on the track runs a 20w/50 and Jay Goldberg runs a 10w/40 on the track(track day/street car).
Heavier weight oils per theory are not suppose to cool as well but I have not noticed any differance in temps at all. Summer temps I think are more affective by the fans thn the oil(did you know RB's new flash allows the fans to turn on sooner?) ( also another new Mazda flash may be coming soon--another one not the current another one)
No harm in mixing differant weight oils at all.
My car is running better than it has ever run.
If anyone is interested in putting gauges in their car I would be more than glad to help.
olddragger
#118
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Originally Posted by olddragger
If anyone is interested in putting gauges in their car I would be more than glad to help.
olddragger
olddragger
#119
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silver --I have posted on the interior thread here and have some pics(im not as good as you are at taking pics!) lego and other have seen my install. I am afraid that there are not many options available at a reasonable cost at present for mounting the gauges on the center pod. The only center pod I am aware of cost $500 and Iwasnt about to pay that! So I mounted mine old school style using cups --but i nade a custom fit mod to the centerpod allowing me to insert the cup stand down into the Nav tray( i dont have NAV) which lowered the overall height. I also used big gaug-- 2 5/8 size. OEM look is expensive right now and I needed info and that was the best I could come up with in my price range.
olddragger
olddragger
#120
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#121
Go Speed Racer, Go!
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okay, somewhere my math is off...I'm redoing my maps to this place and would only save 20 miles if I don't come down toward Atlanta first then head over. What route are you guys thinking about taking?
#122
Smooth Criminal
I am not really sure, I was planning on riding with TA, and he said something about going out Interstate 20. I think lego is meeting us at teh track, but my memory is crap, so don't trust it. We have not really finalized plans for meeting up. Maybe if he gets on IM later today, we can have a little chat about it.
#125
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Lego- looks nice. That Racing Beat/Holley carb reminds me of my old '79 street-ported 13b. You could practically watch the gas gague move downward when all 4 barrels opened up!! I kinda miss the old flame-belcher. (sniff) It was my first track car. Looking forward to seeing everyone at CMP.