09 transmission installed
#26
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From: SF Bay Area, California
I would love to have a taller 6th gear that would lower the cruising RPM in 6th on the freeway.
In fact, I often found myself skipping the 5th gear and go from 4th straight to 6th. So essentially, 5th is the least used gear for me. In fact it would be great to have the current 6th gear as 5th and get a taller 6th gear (like this replacement gear set you mentioned).
But buying this is probably expensive (like everything that's imported from Japan) and the actual replacement procedure is likely also cost-prohibitive. This is not something I'd trust myself doing.
#27
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From: macon, georgia
the taller 6th gear is letting me get 24-25 mpg (on the interstate)if i drive it right
Thats good---but its the 3-4-5th close ratio's that I really, really like. Reminds me of a dirt bike.
I used redlines gl 4 gear oil in it.
It does take just a little to warm up --just like the engine.
Thats good---but its the 3-4-5th close ratio's that I really, really like. Reminds me of a dirt bike.
I used redlines gl 4 gear oil in it.
It does take just a little to warm up --just like the engine.
#30
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From: macon, georgia
Hoss is right--but its just one of the switches that go on the trans needing swapping out.
The exhaust thing--i run a mazsport dual resonated midpipe--it has large resonators and it does get close to this bigger trans. I just added some DEI cat converter heatshield to the resonator and no prob.
The latest is I maybe swapping out my diff for the 4:77 ( sII model) as my use of the car has changed. If that does happen I will also be doing a microblue treatment on the diff assembly as it has a LOT of drag.
The exhaust thing--i run a mazsport dual resonated midpipe--it has large resonators and it does get close to this bigger trans. I just added some DEI cat converter heatshield to the resonator and no prob.
The latest is I maybe swapping out my diff for the 4:77 ( sII model) as my use of the car has changed. If that does happen I will also be doing a microblue treatment on the diff assembly as it has a LOT of drag.
#32
Hoss is right--but its just one of the switches that go on the trans needing swapping out.
The exhaust thing--i run a mazsport dual resonated midpipe--it has large resonators and it does get close to this bigger trans. I just added some DEI cat converter heatshield to the resonator and no prob.
The latest is I maybe swapping out my diff for the 4:77 ( sII model) as my use of the car has changed. If that does happen I will also be doing a microblue treatment on the diff assembly as it has a LOT of drag.
The exhaust thing--i run a mazsport dual resonated midpipe--it has large resonators and it does get close to this bigger trans. I just added some DEI cat converter heatshield to the resonator and no prob.
The latest is I maybe swapping out my diff for the 4:77 ( sII model) as my use of the car has changed. If that does happen I will also be doing a microblue treatment on the diff assembly as it has a LOT of drag.
OOoo... nice... for the wiring, can any old technician able to do it without looking into the manual?
For the diff... why not go for the 5.125 ?
#33
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From: macon, georgia
lol--little to low for me--i still do street drive it some. Oh yea --its just a straight swap. Nothing complicated.
Team never heard of Microblue?
Dont think the rx8 has a diff with a good bit of drag to it?
You know this better than I do.
What have you done? Did you run WD40 in your diff to get that 220rwhp dyno--lol?
Team never heard of Microblue?
Dont think the rx8 has a diff with a good bit of drag to it?
You know this better than I do.
What have you done? Did you run WD40 in your diff to get that 220rwhp dyno--lol?
#34
I had an OE diff with a Kaaz LSD in it then. I now have an OE diff with an OS Giken LSD in it. I use Redline 75W140 oil. So sorry to disappoint your howling little dance around the fire, but there's no magic juju going on there.
Maybe you should start off by explaining what a "lot" of drag is in numerical terms or why all of a sudden "microblue" is your latest subject to go ape posting poop on? For a professional racer with deep pockets it might be worth investigating, but for the average street ****** it seems like an extravagant point of your favorite fixation i.e. minutia.
Maybe you should start off by explaining what a "lot" of drag is in numerical terms or why all of a sudden "microblue" is your latest subject to go ape posting poop on? For a professional racer with deep pockets it might be worth investigating, but for the average street ****** it seems like an extravagant point of your favorite fixation i.e. minutia.
#35
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From: macon, georgia
nevermind. you know that every car is different in its drivetrain loses. mine will be a little different than yours for example. The best general statement that can be said is that on a rear wheel drive car with helical cut gears the diff will cause a 7-11% lose.
But, actually it is very difficult to measure drivetrain lose. Coast down test on a dyno doesnt address the dynamic lost experienced during acceleration. Dynamic lost ( during acceleration) is different from static lost ( during coasting). Dynamic lost is dependent on many different things obviously.
So if I could give the "numbers" concerning drag/resistance on our car that a back yard shade tree monkey mechanic could obtain without a bunch of impressive equipment, then I would really have something and I could retire. But I cant--no one can.
Best I can do is tell you the dang thing doesnt coast downhill easily. Matter of fact I have a ford truck that coasts better!
If you want to learn about microblue then just do your homework. Its not a miracle in most cases, but if you want a coating/treatment--its good, real good.
But, actually it is very difficult to measure drivetrain lose. Coast down test on a dyno doesnt address the dynamic lost experienced during acceleration. Dynamic lost ( during acceleration) is different from static lost ( during coasting). Dynamic lost is dependent on many different things obviously.
So if I could give the "numbers" concerning drag/resistance on our car that a back yard shade tree monkey mechanic could obtain without a bunch of impressive equipment, then I would really have something and I could retire. But I cant--no one can.
Best I can do is tell you the dang thing doesnt coast downhill easily. Matter of fact I have a ford truck that coasts better!
If you want to learn about microblue then just do your homework. Its not a miracle in most cases, but if you want a coating/treatment--its good, real good.
Last edited by olddragger; 02-05-2012 at 10:18 PM.
#39
so here I am bumping this thread once again. lol would you happen to have picture of the connectors you used? my S1 trans took a **** and im upgrading to the s2 trans once it gets here. just would like to see exactly what I need to get. im no wiring guru so plz excuse the noob question.
#41
The taller gearing works out great for the FI guys. I cut and soldered all my connections like BSE mentioned. I would not trust a crimp style butt connector under the car. I also used marine grade heat shrink wrap. The marine grade stuff has glue in the middle for extra water and corrosion resistance.
#42
Soldered wire spices are forbidden in aircraft due to the likelyhood of the solder fracturing under vibration. Instead, high-quality crimp connectors are used which clamp both the bare wire and the insulated part behind it. One version I use for critical joints is Amp (TE Connectivity) PIDG.
#43
Soldered wire spices are forbidden in aircraft due to the likelyhood of the solder fracturing under vibration. Instead, high-quality crimp connectors are used which clamp both the bare wire and the insulated part behind it. One version I use for critical joints is Amp (TE Connectivity) PIDG.
I cut the wires, slid a thin hose (diesel fuel return line one) over one and then soldered the 2 terminals together. After that i placed the hose over the spliced wires and taped it back. It's not ideal since the crimps you mentioned are way better but it's still working.
#47