To get rid of this cel, turn ignition to on position but dont start car and very quickly stomp on the brake pedal 15-20 times in under 10 seconds. Turn ignition off and then restart car and go for a drive .Should be on more cel.
My car did exactly the same thing until i performed this procedure. Have had no recurrencies since. Overall very satisfied with the performance improvement provided by the AP pulley. In combination with my fidanza flywheel, notice a significant improvement in performance.

Regards
Rexi

 

I did a scan with the obdII scan tool at my job and it was a misfire code i reset it but when i hit 6500 rpms its starts flashing until i slow down.. I may have to change my coils or plugs or both but i did the recall in the past so i'm not sure why it keeps happening

 

I did remove the 4 - 10 mm bolts on the pully but only one part of the stock pulley vame off and that after a hard know with my wrench. The other part, the one that drive the alternater seems to be soldered. There is just a trace of rust my motor is always extremely clean but anyways the pulley still don't move even if I knock realy hard on it.

Is there any any special trick that I need to do to remove the last part did I forgot to remove a bolt somehere ?

Please I need help.

 

Probably just a bit of rust . try knocking it with a decent sized soft face hammer - you may need to rotate the E shaft & knock it from various angles to dislodge it .

 

+1 ... I had trouble removing mine also, just be sure not to bend/damage the Eccentric Shaft Positioning Plate

 

I had trouble removing mine, I had to knock it off with a hammer & screwdriver turning it many times. Don't be tempted to lever it off or you'll damage the sensor wheel

 

Thanks guys,

I will try this this evening when I get back home. At least I know I'm not the only one who had this problem. It's realy frustrating, it would have take nothing more that 15 mintes to change the pully but with the rust issue it's taking forever. I tried to knok it yesterday with a beam of wood and a hammer... nothing moved. Damn they should stop soldering every piece in the car and just put some rust . Why bother placing screws to retain the pulley if I can't make it move without them.

I hope I will have more success later today.

Thanks again

 

Try soaking it in PB Blaster for a n hour or two an dif that doesn't work blow torch if possible.

 

Well this thread is not so new anymore but after talking to staticlag for a few months through pm's I told him I would post my thoughts on the AP pulleys once they were installed. I have been a click away from buying these things multiple times. I must have sent 4-5 pm's to staticlag asking his opinions. He must think I have dementia or something. Well I bought them a couple of weeks ago from the Rx7store.com for $125 with the club discount. The install took about 45 minutes with the ease of lowering the alternator to allow the belts too come off. I did not realize the stock pulley was two pieces. It took me a couple times to get the dsc and traction light off. I had to let the car sit for two days while I went to work to get the CEL off. No matter what I did it would not turn off. It is now gone.
First impressions were, meh. I didn't notice much of a change right away. As it so happens after every aftermarket change to my car, it was raining. So I couldn't do much. I drove it on the interstate that night and it was now dry outside so I played around on the on-ramp. First gear zings by and second is not that short anymore either. Third gear is where I noticed the difference. Third is stronger everytime now. Fourth though sixth is kinda hard to tell. It deffinately pulls harder from 5k-8k. This is the first engine mod I have done beside VFAD delete and throttlebody by-pass. Those dont count. The engine feels more responsive and the rpms are now smooth to 10k. I would not trade these things for anything. I am very happy with them and altough it is not my best/favorite mod they are well worth it and recommended. My Hymee exhaust is the crowd pleaser and my all time favorite mod. Even when I go S/C it will still be my favorite. I am pondering the move to get a lighweight flywheel. I just can't see paying more for the install than the damn flywheel. Just want to say thanks to Staticlag for the info and keeping me informed as well as Charles Hill. I asked him a few times too.

 

Everyone says there is a difference they feel after putting on the Agency Power pulley, I have it on my car and the only real difference is the annoying flashing cel.

Everyone I know that has dyno'd there car with a light weight underdrive crank pulley has gained 1-2 hp... If you can feel that you have some keen senses. I have Agency power full exhaust with cat delete and that gave me a cel but not the flashing one (it also gave me 12.5 rwhp on the dyno and with K&N drop in 5 more).

Also after the pulley when it is real hot out, at idle I sometimes have to hit the gas and bring the motors rpm's up about 200 to make the A/C cooler. I don't really recommend the pulley just get the lightened flywheel.

 

Had mine for about two mos now. I can feel a difference in 2nd and 3rd gear....more responsive. Might want to have your a/c recharged / checked cause mine blows cold in 90+ degree weather.

 

I installed mine two weeks ago. Had to do the pedal tap and steering wheel turn and a restart of the engine. Ala no more nasty cell! No differents on the butt dyno.

 

My car has 15k miles and I had a/c checked when I bought it new, I also just had it in for routine maintenance and checkup 100 miles ago.

I think what you feel is in your head, your agency power pulley is a placebo. 1 rwhp on the dyno in 3 diff cars at Race related in pinellas park, Fl, one of the people was Mantis from Mazsport, unless they accidentally put a giant sized, heavier pulley on your car at the factory then maybe 5 hp. The stock parts on this car are already in lightened and exceptional quality, just like your carbon fiber stock drive shaft. There isn't a whole lot improvements from the stuff that may make a econobox Honda faster. The 18" rims are also lightweight. You also have a aluminum hood, rear doors and trunk. Stuff Honda guys spend tons on.

 

considering getting some pulleys. wondering if any can help me narrow my search.
here are a few things i am looking for.
-the obvious, lighter than stock, aluminum.
-stock size if any brand provides. or if belt needs replacing, only for a/c.

stock size is prefered. so kits that include lost like the pulley itself, or maybe just 1 belt only. i don't want anything else spinning slower if its concerning water pump, alternator. but for the a/c compressor i can give a **** about. but for the water pump and alternator, i don't want a modified size or under...what are my brand options?

thanks in advance. and feel free to give extra info and opinions on the brands. much appreciated if detailed specs are included

 

Maybe unorthodox has a kit that is only aluminum, regular sized. ~$300

You realize that this would be an appearance only mod, correct?

 

+1 on Staticlag said, plus this has been covered many times through this thread.

 

STAT: nice, but not nice. $300??? wow! but you said its a kit...meaning its e-shaft, alt., and maybe tensioner pulley...?

none of it would be lighter than the stock one at all??? so is AP the only few thats feasible on getting if getting at all for some changes?

in that case... F this, i might as well see if someone can have the stock ones modified. it'll definitely be cheaper. OR... (thanks guys for the pics comparing the difference of stock and AP) i can separate the A/C one being that its 2 piece. and since its getting cold now in cali...

but i may still consider some and maybe even unorthodox?, in the long-run if its lighter by some. even a minute lb. will get me to buy them.

 

i changed my pulley and i must said it was a simple task and worth for the money.

[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

 

Has anyone else experienced the water/coolant temps increasing after putting pulleys in?

I have the Greddy pulley kit and after installing it, it my coolant temps have grown quite substantially..

sCANalyzer reports my coolant temps to be ~10-15degrees celcius (50-59 degrees fahrenheit) during a normal ambient day.

Is this a normal side-effect of installing pulleys?

 

so 50-60 degrees higher? Is this taken at idle?

 

Dan,

The way I'm reading it those are his temps now, which wouldn't make since.. Also, could a pulley really increase water temps by 50*??

Either way, Im lost..

 

Well, the thermostat activates at around 186 degrees farenheit, so reguardless of radiator or water pump or pulley that is going to be the minimum temperature. So if he is reading 50-59 degrees total then I would say that his equipment is incorrect.

Him reading around 236-245 on water temps doesnt make sense also, he would be getting boil-over constantly and the ECU would go into safe mode because of overheating, he would get a CEL probably also. If he is reading 236-245 after pulley installation either he is using the wrong belt and its too loose or his water pump is broken.

 

Yup, taken at idle and also while driving. The temps have grown on average around 50 degrees F higher than usual. My scanalyzer is always on in my carputer btw and I constantly monitor coolant temps and intake air temps as I have had my radiator replaced recently and it definitely seems like it is running hotter now after the install

Its still not enough to cause a worry as my coolant temps do not exceed 96-98 degrees Celcius (208 degrees farenheit) but still I am a little concerned.

Yup CEL would definitely kick in, however as mentioned previously, temps arent anywhere close to that (yet!)

 

Are you using the smaller belt that came with the pulley? Everything nice and tight?

What are the ambient temps of where you live?

Who replaced your radiator? What type of radiator is it? Did they replace the thermostat?

I'm guessing that they replaced the thermostat when they were in there because the old one was sticking open causing you to read lower temps earlier.

 

I thought that the Greddy pulley size is the same as standard , but only in aluminium. If this is so, then temps could not be affected.

Regards
rexi