The stock 1/4 mile for the RX8 is 14.5seconds

I have the base model RX8 which is 3000lbs if I am mistaken, someone correct me on that.

I'm thinking of the following mods

Titanium Exhaust 5hp? and 25lbs lighter then stock
Mazdaspeed flywheel
Potenza Re50 tires 225/40/18 *saving 4lbs per tire vs stock*
SSR comp 18" wheels * saving 6lbs per wheel vs srock*
light weight battery *saving about 12lbs or so*
light weight lug nuts *maybe a pound at the most for all 4 wheels*
light weight Pullies *around 2lbs off vs stock*

in total I should be about to drop about 100lbs off the weight of my car + gain acouple of HP + Torque. What do you guys predict the 1/4 will be?

 

14.4...

 

14 flat, high 13's.

 

low 9's for sure...

 

In your dreams.

 

14.3

 

I don't think it's too unreasonable. Polak and others have hit the 14.3 area stock. A lot of this depends on the driver. He's taking a lot of rotational mass off of the car, so that 100 pounds will feel like getting rid of a good deal more. I'd say if you're a good driver you might be able to reach 14 flat. Good luck.

 

In Your dreams microwave hood boy. All rx8's are not the same, but you must be ready to dish out sum cash. The speed will trip you out and look a lot better than your gay looking sentra on CRACK.

 

16.5

 

haha - "lightweight battery"

 

you're wasting SO much money for next to no gains

Why not just slap a turbo on there and go to town?

Titanium exhaust ? Jesus that's half the cost of the GReddy turbo right there. Those wheels are the other half.

Those tires are worthless, btw.

 

he does have a very strong point get the turbo!!!! do it now!!!!

 

lol

 

dont waste of money on small things.

get a turbo kit and get it tuned!

14 flat wouldn't be a dream.

 

First of all, getting a 14.3 or 14.5 requires practically sacrificing your transmission, I would not recommend the 7-8K clutch dump required to get that time. In reality, our cars are high 14's stock, so lets talk about getting from a 14.8-15.0 down to a 14 flat.

I've analyzed every way to take weight off the car that doesn't involve a blow torch, and its really hard to get much off without major $$$$$. The wheels and tires have some benefit outside of just weight reduction, ride quality, suspension life etc....

to be honest, as has been mentioned, I would just get a turbo kit, b/c the power you'll add will be useful power you can feel across the rev band. You could also port and then ECU tune, that might get you 40+ WHP, but it won't be the same kick in the pants feel as the turbo. I would imagine that a greddy turbo will get you into the low 14's without killing your tranny, maybe high 13's if you decide to kill first gear.

If your worried about your warranty, and want power, your going to have to wait. That or wait until a good supercharger kit comes out that can be "relatively" easy to remove.

 

...or Nitrous...

 

14.3

 

I just want to point out that if weight wasnt an important issue Mazda wouldnt go to all that trouble in making the hood out of aluminum, carbon fibre drive shaft, aluminum parts for the suspension, not including a spare time etc. Putting a turbo in the car is one thing that I'm trying to stay away from, becasue of emission problems, the car wont be as relaliable, have a tubro lag, and the fuel ecomony being even worse then it is. and having a turbo in a high RPM engine?? thats asking for trouble.


I do also want to point out that I would taking alot of weight from rotation parts such as wheels, rims, flywheel and I'm sure that will have an impact.

anyway, My goal is to drop to 13.9 on the 1/4 mile, assuming that the car does 14.5 right now...

 

You are following some HUGE leaps in terms of logic there...It's intellectually dishonest to claim:

a) Turbo will make for worse emissions.
b) Car won't be as reliable
c) Car will suffer 'turbo lag'
d) Car's fuel economy will suffer
e) Installing a turbo on a car with high RPMs is more dangerous than a car which can't rev very high


The Largest Leap you are taking is assuming your car can run 14.5 with you behind the wheel. Until you go out and DO it, your car doesn't run ANYTHING. Go make a few baseline runs. That'll set your starting point.

 

Side note:

The best way to drop .5 seconds off your car's e/t is "Learn to drive better".

Honestly. That's advice for ANY new drag racer.

 

Couple of questions then,

Why do all the cars which have a turbo have a red line which is below 6500rpm?

If reliabilty isnt a problem? then why do we see so many engines that have been "rebuilt" which had a factory turbo?

Car fuel has to suffer, becasue the extra power has to come from somewhere, and thats more fuel.


In my opinion turbo is short term solution, what good is the extra power if after 10K you start having problems? I would also like to point out that All the best cars in the world dont have Turbos, eg, Enzo, Saleen, GT

 

The Subaru STi redlines at 7K. The EVO redlines at 7K. Those are two...off the top of my head.

Who is 'we' and where are they seeing them? SAABs run for HUNDREDS of thousands of miles. RX7s, when left alone, can do the same.

The economy of a turbo car is directly related to how much the operator 'floors it'. When not in boost the car won't use any more fuel than normal.

That list is horrbily misleading...well, not the list, but your reasoning is just plain silly.

What about the Supra MKIV? RX7 TT? Skyline...I could go on for hours, but I doubt you 'want' to know the truth.

 

Oh. The TT RX7 redlines no sooner than 8,000 rpms, if I recall.

 

well youre right about the TT rx7 the redline is at 8000rpm

 

...I'm right about everything else, too!



:p

:D