Best HP/TQ gain for the $$
#76
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If I were to do it all over again I'd just get a CAI (Cold Air Intake), you put the filter outside the engine bay so you don't have to worry about the various under the hood components heat cycling through the filter. The RB Ram Air Duct is good, but even with it as mentioned above, it only really works when you are moving. CAIs work all the time. I have a good pic of the Duct below.
#77
Vtak just kicked in yo!!
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If I were to do it all over again I'd just get a CAI (Cold Air Intake), you put the filter outside the engine bay so you don't have to worry about the various under the hood components heat cycling through the filter. The RB Ram Air Duct is good, but even with it as mentioned above, it only really works when you are moving. CAIs work all the time. I have a good pic of the Duct below.
#78
Ronin
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Wow, the duct looks a lot bigger than I imagined. I appreciate your insight, im trying to do whats best for the car and the performance. looks like i will invest in the duct. Was it easy to install?
#81
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Exactly. $185 new and you've essentially got an RB CAI intake that looks stock (because it mostly is). The only 'gutting' is VFAD removal, which you would have to do for any CAI. [well, I did use part of another VFAD to seamlessly mate the RB duct to the stock box]
#85
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no S$*%....so, fresh air under 5000Rpm is extremely important.....the Typhoon II doesn't help the situation cause its pulling heat from the engine bay....which is why everyone tells me to hit up the Revi Air duct and why Renisis07 has made a custom nose scoop to allow cooler air to enter the filter.... >.> sound like i need to get movin on this..Thank you all for helpin me out and being so patient with me!
#87
I agree
![Icon Bs](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/icon_bs.gif)
#88
Thank goodness someone else sees the nonsense. Anyway, I've been reading up on all these "minor" upgrades as well as FI. I'm very interested in racing since I went to an SCCA event earlier this year. Is a FI'ed RX8 any more competition to other cars than an NA?
What I mean is, if I boost my RX8, say with an esmeril kit. Get all the right work done, and even do all the "minor" upgrades, bring it up to over 420 (assuming the minor upgrades do anything after the turbo), then go race it, is still gonna be on the slow end? To sum it up, does FI make it a fast car, or just a fast RX8?
What I mean is, if I boost my RX8, say with an esmeril kit. Get all the right work done, and even do all the "minor" upgrades, bring it up to over 420 (assuming the minor upgrades do anything after the turbo), then go race it, is still gonna be on the slow end? To sum it up, does FI make it a fast car, or just a fast RX8?
#89
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Mods for speed in their proper order:
1) Driver Education
2) Tires
3) More Driver Education
4) Ignition
5) Mid-pipe
6) AEM Intake
7) Properly calibrated PCM
8) More Driver Education
9) Springs/shocks/sways
10) Even more DE
5) & 6) can be replaced with FI, but that skews the hp/& ratio a bit.
1) Driver Education
2) Tires
3) More Driver Education
4) Ignition
5) Mid-pipe
6) AEM Intake
7) Properly calibrated PCM
8) More Driver Education
9) Springs/shocks/sways
10) Even more DE
5) & 6) can be replaced with FI, but that skews the hp/& ratio a bit.
#91
Illudium Q-36 Space Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Where in that list is weight loss?
I'd say that is number 2 - lets say you and your car weigh 3300 lbs - you are pushing 14.2 pounds per horsepower.
Now, drop that to JUST 3100 lbs - 13.3 lbs per horsepower - an equivalent gain of.....16 WHP.... best bang for your non-FIed buck.
I'd say that is number 2 - lets say you and your car weigh 3300 lbs - you are pushing 14.2 pounds per horsepower.
Now, drop that to JUST 3100 lbs - 13.3 lbs per horsepower - an equivalent gain of.....16 WHP.... best bang for your non-FIed buck.
#93
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#94
Nitrous Threadjacker
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Where in that list is weight loss?
I'd say that is number 2 - lets say you and your car weigh 3300 lbs - you are pushing 14.2 pounds per horsepower.
Now, drop that to JUST 3100 lbs - 13.3 lbs per horsepower - an equivalent gain of.....16 WHP.... best bang for your non-FIed buck.
I'd say that is number 2 - lets say you and your car weigh 3300 lbs - you are pushing 14.2 pounds per horsepower.
Now, drop that to JUST 3100 lbs - 13.3 lbs per horsepower - an equivalent gain of.....16 WHP.... best bang for your non-FIed buck.
#96
Mods for speed in their proper order:
1) Driver Education
2) Tires
3) More Driver Education
4) Ignition
5) Mid-pipe
6) AEM Intake
7) Properly calibrated PCM
8) More Driver Education
9) Springs/shocks/sways
10) Even more DE
5) & 6) can be replaced with FI, but that skews the hp/& ratio a bit.
1) Driver Education
2) Tires
3) More Driver Education
4) Ignition
5) Mid-pipe
6) AEM Intake
7) Properly calibrated PCM
8) More Driver Education
9) Springs/shocks/sways
10) Even more DE
5) & 6) can be replaced with FI, but that skews the hp/& ratio a bit.
That is a great mod.
Butt you need to add two more DE's
#97
Drummond Built
iTrader: (6)
Where in that list is weight loss?
I'd say that is number 2 - lets say you and your car weigh 3300 lbs - you are pushing 14.2 pounds per horsepower.
Now, drop that to JUST 3100 lbs - 13.3 lbs per horsepower - an equivalent gain of.....16 WHP.... best bang for your non-FIed buck.
I'd say that is number 2 - lets say you and your car weigh 3300 lbs - you are pushing 14.2 pounds per horsepower.
Now, drop that to JUST 3100 lbs - 13.3 lbs per horsepower - an equivalent gain of.....16 WHP.... best bang for your non-FIed buck.
Kane I will agree with you but in my opinion the fact of the matter is the RX8 is already very light, unfortunately not for the HP but theres only so much you can do to reduce weight in this car and maintain the 50/50 weight distrubution. Hell 2 piece RB rotors cost a ton, and conbined with rims is about the best your gonna get unless you dont mind losing your 50/50 and gutting your interior. It would almost cost more to remove weight than to go FI and have the stock interior... That 200lbs youd lose would have to come from somewhere, either you're losing weight and going on a diet or your spending a fortune on losing your cars weight.
In my opinion its the power thats lacking, not the weight. Ive always felt a 10-1 HP to weight ratio would be perfect for this car. 3000lbs, 300 hp at fly... means roughly 250-260 at wheels... That would make our car perfect, we know the chassis can handle it...
Just my .02 cents...
#98
Illudium Q-36 Space Moderator
iTrader: (1)
But if your all motor, instead of paying thousands for a few HP - swap the factory seats, racing battery, go on a diet, lightweight wheels, two piece brakes.
Those are the normal weight saving mods IMO.
Then you can get crazy, take out back seat, relocate battery to trunk, SUPER light seats (Buckets), remove insulation, carbon fiber...yada yada
The point is FI = $10,000, small weight savings = $1000 to $3000 (might save 40 pounds)
AEM, Cobb, Exhausts, and all the normal bolt ons.... = $2000-$6000, all for a few HP here or there.