Razz1

Jedi you may want me to come over or you can come here for help.

I am a specialist concerning jacks.

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Haaaaaaaaaaaaa


face!

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

look who'se talking..... remember this?
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...highlight=jack

Kane

iTrader: (1)

I was WAITING FOR THAT!!!!


Funny *** ****.

BTW - I may be the only guy in history to move to coilovers to lift my car up....

gtommy

iTrader: (2)

Maybe one day I'll receive my set of coils and I'll be able to post my impression here. I'm even offering a nice before/after video comparaison, taking in consideration that my car is currently running like **** on one rotor.
This could be high praise for BHR coils.
*waiting since november 2008* *and still hoping*

invasion08

iTrader: (7)

I am another 4 pot owner with the BHR Kit. Only have about 250 miles on these coils so far. No issues. The power is smoother. Idle is the same since i believe my motor mounts are shot. Need to replace them soon.

JIN13

hey guys i got my coils a few weeks ago put them on No issues and right away i noticed it has smoother idle better start up good power no more dam missfires thats good but no diference in my MPG.

shazy

Did you get more power?

Rote8

Coil input wire colors can confirm the correct order.
1) Green coil input wire is Leading plug front rotor (bottom-front spark plug)
2) White coil input wire is trailing plug front rotor (top-front spark plug)
3) Yellow coil input wire is Leading plug rear rotor (bottom-rear spark plug)
4) Blue coil input wire is trailing plug rear rotor (top-rear spark plug)

Mazurfer

Yes....if you have the OEM wires!

If not, then just follow this!

JIN13

it feals better and responds better so i would say yes

alienRX8

ok so something happened to me last night and i think it may be the coils

I used the car all day yesterday without any problems then at night I left home to go pick up my gf and the car idled perfectly but when I got on the accel it would go pig rich all of a sudden very strange. I know Im not fully tuned but it didint do this before and there we no vac leaks or the idle would have been off. This morning I woke up and checked the engine I just checked the plugs on the coil side and on the spark plug side, made sure they were tightened and after I did that the car was fine. The plugs looked fine though, they didnt look loose or anything.

Any thoughts?

Flashwing

If there are any problems with the terminals on the coil side you would be getting misfires during idle.

If it's simply a case of your air/fuel rations going rich, that's a tuning issue not an ignition issue.

alienRX8

I dont think its a tuning issue because it didnt do it before and it didnt do it today it was just last night, and when I got on the accel it felt like when the ground on the ignition was not correct. And correct me if im wrong but if the car doesnt ignite the fuel the AFR will go rich. And it wasnt only rich, it felt horrible like it wanted to turn off.

baysj

iTrader: (1)

This is not entirely true, if you have a coil failing your engine would not be able to ignite the fuel causing it to go "pig rich". Currently my car is having issues and will not rev past 4k. I called mazda they said I might have 1 flooded rotor and the culperit might be a bad coil. I will let you know as soon as i recieve my BHR coils.

baysj

iTrader: (1)

not to mention not in boost if i WOT it I will get to about 2500 RPM's and my AFR's will hover around 11.5 or so. I had the car tuned and everything was fine until i got a haircut.

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

where did you ground your ignition?

alienRX8

right now its grounded to a place under the master cilinder to the upper right side of th engine bay. the first time it was installed in a bad place

Derex'8

iTrader: (4)

Got mine installed today in an hr & 15 min. (Was trying to get it installed before class) immediately noticed a much smoother & steady idle. My vac also went up.
I'm running a Pull through setup and I don't have my BOV recirculated, so whenever I let off the gas pedal it goes rich & backfires. It did this quite frequently prior to installing ignition but now barely does it. It only backfired once on the drive to school & that was from a hard & long pull.

I also noticed spool up was noticieably quicker.

Still have some more testing out to do but will have to wait until class over with.

alienRX8

Ok guys I have a question. I was looking at the Coils today because again I had that problem where it would idle rich so I opened my hood to check on the plugs and I noticed that the second coil, if you start couing from farthest to the throttle body, is rubbing against a piece of metal that is bolted onto the motor. That piece is rubbing agaisnt the wires that plug into the coil. Is it normal for it to be that close? It looks like it is pressing against the wires and that could be my problem.

Any tips? Help?

bose

iTrader: (5)

Is it the engine hoist your talking about? I removed mine altogether it was just the two bolts, and put the bolts back in. Or you could try bending it out of the way.

DarthRX8

I had noticed the same thing when I installed mine. All you have to do is losen all four bolts, push the ignition mount as far down as possible and tighten them again. Should fix the rubbing. Well, I know it did with mine?

alienRX8

ill try removing all 4 bolts first and moving it first to see if it fixes the problem. If not then ill try to bend the metal a bit.

jujo

I installed mine last night with no problems. Before you start make sure you gather all your tools. I found the BHR instructions to be pretty good, but I found a couple threads in the DIY about installing them that helped.

If you've never taken your airbox out before this could be a little difficult. Watch a video on youtube or something before you attempt it. You need to use a little bit of force to push it back into the engine bay to get the bottom hooks out of where the intake sits . Just pushing back and up a little bit perhaps is all you need to do. Maybe wiggle it a little bit, but you do need some good force behind it. You could probably leave the airbox in if you just take out the tubing between the throttle body with that little black box on it. Only a phillips head screwdriver for that. Once that is gone you have access to the coils, and taking them off is pretty easy. Just unplug them and pull the wires off. Might need to lift up around the base of the wire on the old coils to get them off. They weren't on very tight on my 05 with 30k miles. Now pull the wires from the plugs. The first two you can reach are not that hard, but the trailing plug on the back rotor is hard to get to. All I can say is good luck, my skinny arm was able to get down there far enough standing over the wheel to get it off.

When you try to put the new coils in there make sure before you do that you have unwound the grounding cable. I made that mistake! Also put the spacers in before you try the coils. I found getting the nuts on with the BHR coils was difficult. I was only able to tighten them by hand, but I'm OK with that as long as it doesn't pose a problem in the future. If anyone thinks this is bad please let me know! I had to unplug this tubing bracket next to it before I could fit it in. Don't ask me what it is, because I've no idea!

After you get the new plug wires on the plugs your next step is the grounding wire. There wasn't really any instruction for this from BHR, as it is a simple grounding hoop. All you do is strip the provided grounding wire to expose the copper, and feed it through the yellow plastic housing. Take your crimping tool and clamp it down over the copper to create the ground. Then you take the nut off your master brake cylinder, put the hoop on like a washer, and screw it back in tight to complete your ground.

And that's an IT guy's take on it. I have little to no experience working on cars. Just computers The install isn't that hard if you take your time. But, with that said, I can see a lot of people having trouble getting their hands to fit down where the plugs are, screwing the nuts back on the coils, or even connecting them back up. It's just a tight space to work. Remember, pictures are worth a thousand words. Take a look through the thread here for some good diagrams if you're lost.

Also for anyone reading I'd be glad to give an 8club member a hand installing these if you're in the central VA area. PM me.

-Greg

jujo

I think if you intend to market it as a "bolt-on" it'd be a good idea. I'd bet most people are going to put it up there by the master brake cylinder and just call it a day.

Edit: Put it this way, it cuts down on the tools necessary