Or you can get the TiTek or the GT Spec for half the price of re amemiya. They run about $575. They are good name brands, so quality should be up there.

The TiTek Innovations header for your application is made of SUS304 stainless steel and is precision mandrel-bent to enhance exhaust gas flow, and will directly bolt on to your stock engine and exhaust without any modifications. All hardware and gaskets are included to ease installation.


GTSPEC s headers are tig-welded inside and out to ensure a perfect flow and perfect fit. Compared to the factory exhaust manifold, GTSPEC's manifold extracts the most power from your car by from a design that truly provides improved heat dissipation and noticeable horsepower. Combining an industry leading mandrel-bent 45mm stainless steel piping, .5-inch thick CNC machined SUS304 wax-cut flanges and SUS304 02 bungs means a performance part with the quality and craftsmanship expected from the team at GTSPEC.

 

I have a friend who is a mechanical engineer and he works at the SW research center and I am going to forward the pics to him and get his thoughts. Obviously he has not actually seen it but he does exhaust research for all types of engines so he may have some input in terms of flow, etc.

 

Thank you Paul, maybe they'll listen to you

Why yes, yes I have.

 

/\ How big of a gain?

 

just like any other header, its almost all bling, as far as everyone saying, aw man, your so gonna lose power and whatnot, am i? show me the dyno results...Its equal length piping without the restrictions. weather it sounds better/louder, or if i gain .5 hp at the crank...it was cheap so i dont care, I just wanted to get a full exhaust instead of half assing it, its not bad quality for the price, everyone here is over looking that.

its simple...cheap, less restriction, equal length, good enough quality to push exhaust out...matching the 2.5inch from the motor back...its not a big deal, I wont feel the power loss/gain anyway...my 2 cents.

besides, its my car.

 

hks: I'm not trying to **** in your Cheerios but I'd listen to Mazmart. He knows a thing or two about what it takes to build high quality rotary cars.
It is your car though so you're free to do as you wish. Let us know how it sounds / performs once it's installed.

 

 

Cheap, cheerful, but I have the same doubts about the quality as the rest, the welds alone look like they weren't properly purged, so may suffer from cracking from the residual stress on the internal side, still, it may last, worth a shot at that price I suppose.

 

btw, as far as material goes, its full 304...ive already checked it out for myself...the flange is lower grade which is what you need.

and as far as heat wraping it, great chance of warping it, no dought on a rotary.

also, when it comes to quality on this unit, you cant judge a book by its cover, as you can see, inside the connector, sure, its not very clean, bid deal?? whats that mean to me? I have dirty looking pipes lol? Not like my rich fuel mixture wouldnt black it out the first drive anyway..

guys, im telling you...its matching ports....its matching length...without the restrictions...i highly dought ill actualy lose power...sure, maybe at differnt rpms...but there will be a better gain somewhere...and yes, I did buy it for sound also.

this car isnt worth droping 1000s of $$$ into when I know most every car out there will leave it to begin with.

so this is what I have to say, whats 190 bucks compared to 1200...1500...even 1700+ for a header that wont even make a noticable differnce over the apposing teams?

Ill tell you, its 1500 in my pocket.

 

RB header is $500.
aside from the guys buying JDM stuff, where are you getting $1500 from?

 

RE-amemiyas..and ex speeds is alot.

I'm just saying though, budget, its a great header, but thats beside the point...

no header will make a noticable differnce, the saved money can be invested else where.

 

You haven't answered my question

 

Shazy: I'll put it to you this way...
after installing my RB header, I beat my all-time highest dyno.
(and I've been over 200whp for quite some time now while still running a cat)

 

just to play the devils advocate, you added other mods in there as well at that dyno. so you cant know for sure.

even racing beat claims 4hp from their header. thats low enough to just be slight differences in dyno pulls.

i dont understand what someone was saying about the BB having longer runners than the RB. it seems like its the other way around.....

also, afaik, the ONLY header that is actually worth a damn left my hands a week ago to return to its original owner. and he custom built it. it was also 7lbs. and that owner is teamrx8. and seeing as he has dyno'd at 224whp with this header. i say it has some cred. if it doesnt do anything hp wise. at least its 10lbs lighter than stock. is the BB or RB lighter than stock? how much?

and he didnt go with runners at all. he went with straight log design.

 

no I didn't. (well, other then my heavier wheels)

 

see, i told you!

another mod!

man, i am so psychic.

 

 

how can you tell?

 

i heard that the obx header actually works really good and this is coming from people that actually have the part on there car and tested it.

 

titek and gtspec look very similar to the xs-power ones and actually came out later. The exoticspeed ones should be very similar to this design as well. Maybe they are just rebranded?
http://www.xs-power.co.uk/index.php?...59e0f4374f0bdc

 

xs power header is actually bb header!! I bought it from xs power and it has the bb logo on it. I have it on my car for 7 months and 10000km(6200miles) with no problem! Do not ask for dyno cause there is not any. Just a butt dyno I feel it stronger in low rpms and it is a bit louder than stock setup!!

Fitment tips:
1)Do not use the bb engine-header flange cause you may have leaks after a few miles!
2)When i installed it i realized that it hits the transverse member under the oil pan, so you need some spacers and longer bolts to fit the transverse properly!
3)Is hard to remove the lambda sensor from the header, so be prepared to buy a new one if you destroy it!

 

^_^ nice

 

You are correct NYC. The more gradual the transition the higher power you'll see. The collector is BY FAR the cost driver in a longer 3-into-1 exhaust. We have built 11 different header styles and found that NOT mating to the stock exhaust location gives you more power. Out cheapest collector was about $300 in s.s. and our craziest one was $800 (just for the collector).

And yes, there is power to be had in a proper header.

Proper header = $1,500. Proper header + exhaust = $2K+

Watch your A/F values and add a fuel pressure gauge when testing. You will learn a lot by following this method. No need for EGT's if you have a solid O2 sensor. Start with a new one.

 

so what header would you recommend?

 

Would this statement imply custom exhausts is required?