Hey guys,

I installed an AP Pulley this weekend. Took forEVER and was NOT a pleasant experience.. I have an 04 and the stock pulleys would just NOT come off..

Anyways, after about 2 hours of tugging on the stock pulleys, they came off and I threw on the new AP pulley.. Closed everything up, reset e-shaft (22 brake pedal taps) and started up..

Everything seemed fine until I stepped on it. Once I got to about 7k my CEL started blinking, I slowed down n it went off.. Did it again and ignored the CEL, and it stayed... I reset the CEL and tried again, and noticed that whenever I beat on the car, it goes off.. As long as im driving slow or not too crazy, the CEL stays off...

Any ideas why this is happening? Or if its normal?

 

Get the CEL code it can be a totally unrelated issue or then again it could be. Impossible to know unless you get the code so you can determine the problem. The CEL is a perfect place to start. The ECU is telling you something so read it!

 

Alright sounds good.. What PC software could I use to read the code? I use my "Carputer" to clear the codes when they pop up, but have no tool to read the codes... Would Scanalyzer work?

 

^
Scantool.net its free and works good

 

Just pulled em up and got

P0300 Random misfire detected Flash/ON 1 or 2 Misfire

and pending
*P0302 Rear rotor misfire detected Flash/ON 1 or 2 Misfire

Any reason why these may have happened after installing the pulley?

 

Its going to be coils or plugs and they might have been getting weak and by adding the pulleys you made your motor spin a little easier and your wore out plugs or coils cant keep up. Just a shot in the dark

 

These ecu's are so sensetive that it is completely possible that it's from the pulley. It may be because the wind is blowing out of the east or that the ******* planets aren't alligned correctly or that you ate meat on a friday. I had the same CEL codes 2 days after installing my new ls2 coils and new plugs and wires. Kept freaking out cleared everything pulled battery for a day tapped brake pedal for 35 minutes and jumped up and down on one leg for an hour. Still got the light. Kept clearing it and re-reading it with my scan tool, 2 more days and it didn't come on since, hasn't come on in 6 months or so.

 

Interesting.. Well, I dont think its the plugs or coils as I changed them about 5k ago.. Theres no way they could be done already unless my engine isnt running right.. (Too lean?) But I still have the same problem.. Should I just keep resetting the E-Shaft sensor everytime I start and hope that it eventually goes away? That DOESNT seem like the right thing to do..

 

Right direction, wrong reason.

The problem here is that the 300/301/302 codes have at least a dozen potential causes, according to the service manual. Bad/dirty sensors, low oil pressure, low fuel pressure, etc.

 

did you check for a loose spark plug wire?

 

Yep checked and rechecked wires.. I have an oil pressure gauge and it idles at around 21-22.. Is that too low? I just dont see where the "coincidence" is in having the coils/wire/fuel pump go bad right when I switch out the pulleys..

Ive been driving slow and easy until I get the CEL resolved, I just dont see why its on.. I cleared the CEL and reset the e-shaft last night, im gonna wait to see if it comes on again.. Should I beat on it to see if itll come on again? Or will that harm the internals?

 

Alright, so I had a dyno run scheduled for the car today, and I went ahead with it.. After my runs (results posted on other thread) I had a chat with the guy at Boston Dyno, and he brought up an interesting point.. When I replaced the Pulley's, there was a plate behind them that had "teeth" on it.. Seemed like it was a e-shaft sensor plate? Thats how I would describe it.. Anyways, I bent that at several different spots while replacing the pulley, trying to wedge out my old one since it was jammed in very tight..

Do you think THAT is the reason im throwing a CEL?

 

Scantool.net

There isn't anything on that site that is free. Looks like you just spammed the forum. Don't do that again.

 

Ya think? you know that 22 brake stomp you did to reset the memory? your resetting the PCM's memory of what that Trigger Wheel looks like. If that wheel is bent or the Hall sensor that looks at it is out of position or cruddy etc then your PCM has no idea how to set the timing correctly. go get a new trigger wheel.

might as well pick up the sensor as well if they will let youreturn it if you dont need to open it.

 

^^^^^^ yes!


where in boston are you?

i'm in quincy. you should seriously just let me install these things for you. you bring beer and i install.

 

NOW, ya tell us. Thx.

 

I want the 5 minutes of my life back that it took me to read this thread

 

haha sorry people.. should have thought about that earlier! Im gonna try to "fix" the wheel this weekend and post my results.. Could that cause a misfire?

 

Carefully flatten the wheel, and yes.

 

Sounds good.. I was thinking of lightly hammering the bent tips against a flat surface.. Is that too harsh or will that work?

 

It isn't complicated; being a cheap piece of steel it is easily bent back into shape and you could probably straighten it out while it is still fastened to the engine.

 

Cool.. Im not gonna risk that, but Ill straighten it up and post my results.. Thanks again!

 

let me know what happens. just installed my pulleys too, and bent the teeth, but i thought i straightened them. my idle is also fine at 900rpms.

 

If after you fix the bent teeth you still have a CEL...

I got a CEL after installing the AP UD Crank Pulley, after a while it went away. I was told by tech's at Mazsport, (it was a few years ago) that the computer needed to learn the new output of the devices are run by the belt since changing the size and weight of the pulley has modified all devices output, even if only slightly.

If I remember correctly it finally stayed off after my battery was pulled for a extended period of time.

 

Not exatly true but Mazda does mention in the FSM that any removal or alteration to the front e-shaft pulley/e-shaft position wheel and sensor requires a resetting of the e-shaft profile in the PCM. This is what we have been telling this guy until he then decided to mention having bent his trigger wheel. Fix the wheel, reset the profile, and all should be fine.