Did My Dyno For SR Motor. Hi-Flow Cat, SR Motor. Pullies, RE Intake (Results Inside)
#26
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What can I tell you, just doing what I can to get a little hp. Actually a big part of it is in anticipation of possible FI. Freeing up the exhaust with the hi-flow cat & RB mufflers. On the positive side I did get hp across the board & about 10 hp on the high end. I will agree though the flywheel seems to be the best money spent. Acceleration form 1st, 2nd, & 3rd is much better.
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i have all the upgrades fanman has (thanks for the post...great), except i have the cz 1.1 but have not tuned it.
questions for anyone who has tuned...is it worth the investment to buy the scan tool, and if so, know anyone who wants to sell theirs or share the expense of one?
questions for anyone who has tuned...is it worth the investment to buy the scan tool, and if so, know anyone who wants to sell theirs or share the expense of one?
#29
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Originally Posted by Fanman
Before mods (only Racing Beat exhaust) :
179.24 whp
133.33 wtq.
After mods (Rotary Extreme intake, SR Motorsports pullies, SR Motorsports Hi-flow Cat, Racing Beat Exhaust) :
183.72 whp
136.14 wtq.
About what I expected. The good thing is that the gains are across the board, not just on the top end. In talking to my mechanic he said it was about 2 hp for the intake, 1 for the pullies, & 2 for the hi-flow cat.
179.24 whp
133.33 wtq.
After mods (Rotary Extreme intake, SR Motorsports pullies, SR Motorsports Hi-flow Cat, Racing Beat Exhaust) :
183.72 whp
136.14 wtq.
About what I expected. The good thing is that the gains are across the board, not just on the top end. In talking to my mechanic he said it was about 2 hp for the intake, 1 for the pullies, & 2 for the hi-flow cat.
If you had unbolted the rear wheel speed/ABS sensors and tied them back away from the wheels (not disconnected them), you would have probably got more accurate peak numbers that would show a greater increase. As it is, the "safe mode" is hiding part of your increased power. How do you know how much you really increased, with a, um, useless dyno plot like that?
Regards,
Gordon
#30
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Originally Posted by rudy8
i have all the upgrades fanman has (thanks for the post...great), except i have the cz 1.1 but have not tuned it.
questions for anyone who has tuned...is it worth the investment to buy the scan tool, and if so, know anyone who wants to sell theirs or share the expense of one?
questions for anyone who has tuned...is it worth the investment to buy the scan tool, and if so, know anyone who wants to sell theirs or share the expense of one?
Vince
#31
Originally Posted by rudy8
i have all the upgrades fanman has (thanks for the post...great), except i have the cz 1.1 but have not tuned it.
questions for anyone who has tuned...is it worth the investment to buy the scan tool, and if so, know anyone who wants to sell theirs or share the expense of one?
questions for anyone who has tuned...is it worth the investment to buy the scan tool, and if so, know anyone who wants to sell theirs or share the expense of one?
Read more here: http://tyrannical.org/page-15
#32
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Originally Posted by Gord96BRG
I'd bet that you actually gained more peak HP than your dyno shows - or in other words, your dyno run does NOT show you real values. Like 95% of the dyno runs that get posted here - look at the high rpm section, from 102 mph + on your graph. Notice how your 'after' run gets jittery and stops increasing? That's "safe mode" in the ECU pulling timing and richening the mixture, because it's detected a problem (rear wheels turning, front wheels stationary, high rpm and full throttle). Your 'before' run shows the same effect, but to a lesser extent.
If you had unbolted the rear wheel speed/ABS sensors and tied them back away from the wheels (not disconnected them), you would have probably got more accurate peak numbers that would show a greater increase. As it is, the "safe mode" is hiding part of your increased power. How do you know how much you really increased, with a, um, useless dyno plot like that?
Regards,
Gordon
If you had unbolted the rear wheel speed/ABS sensors and tied them back away from the wheels (not disconnected them), you would have probably got more accurate peak numbers that would show a greater increase. As it is, the "safe mode" is hiding part of your increased power. How do you know how much you really increased, with a, um, useless dyno plot like that?
Regards,
Gordon
#33
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Originally Posted by Fanman
if you are saying the ABS sensor is creating issues next time I will have him unbolt the ABS sensors for a before (and see if there is a big hp difference), and after I do the Can Zoomer unit.
Regards,
Gordon
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just a though regarding the ABS sensors on the dyno. Why couldn't someone just make a cable that duplicates the signal pulse from the tone rings on the front wheels to make the ABS sensors pick up a signal telling them that the front wheels are turning at the same speed as the rears?
I'm sure it sounds simple but in reality it is very tought to do. Please don't kill me if this has been suggested before.
Sorry to hijack your thread.
I'm sure it sounds simple but in reality it is very tought to do. Please don't kill me if this has been suggested before.
Sorry to hijack your thread.
#37
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It has been suggested before and it didnt work out quite as easy as advertised. At one point canzoomer had talked about soem hardware to get around it, but he's been silent on the boards long enough that I doubt we'll see anything from it.
#38
What saddens me is you guys are talking about 1 digit horsepower gains and nobody is pissed off . . . . .
This motor is so, so amazing, all that I see wrong with it is the exhaust ports are a little restrictive, but emissions are a lot stricter these days . . . oh, and it gets crap gas mileage.
How much are we spending for this? $1000? $2000?
Save up, drop a good $4000 on a custom turbo setup . . . stick a huge turbo on there, the heat from the rotary will spool it up fast. My favorite is the GT3540R. I'm sure it can hold 6 pounds of boost on stock seals, with a rebuild probably 15 or more. You'll be looking at dynos in the 300s.
This motor is so, so amazing, all that I see wrong with it is the exhaust ports are a little restrictive, but emissions are a lot stricter these days . . . oh, and it gets crap gas mileage.
How much are we spending for this? $1000? $2000?
Save up, drop a good $4000 on a custom turbo setup . . . stick a huge turbo on there, the heat from the rotary will spool it up fast. My favorite is the GT3540R. I'm sure it can hold 6 pounds of boost on stock seals, with a rebuild probably 15 or more. You'll be looking at dynos in the 300s.
#39
RX8 and a Truk....
Originally Posted by cretinx
What saddens me is you guys are talking about 1 digit horsepower gains and nobody is pissed off . . . . .
again - read the f'in chart. He gained as much as 15hp in some areas of the powerband. 15hp gain is 15hp, no matter WHERE the increase.
#40
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I have done this in anticipation of FI later down the road (if reliable). In getting a hi-flow cat, and an aftermarket exhaust this will open up the exhaust & decrease back pressure (good thing with turbos). Also, getting the exhaust was not all about getting a few hp increase, it was also about getting a better sound. Which the RB is much throatier than stock.
I will dyno with the ABS sensors pulled back next time. I'm probably going to get a Can Zoomer unit in the meantime, while waiting to see if FI is reliable. I would seriously consider the SFR/SSR turbo unit, Greddy, or maybe the Blitz. Can't wait to see the performance of these kits.
I will dyno with the ABS sensors pulled back next time. I'm probably going to get a Can Zoomer unit in the meantime, while waiting to see if FI is reliable. I would seriously consider the SFR/SSR turbo unit, Greddy, or maybe the Blitz. Can't wait to see the performance of these kits.
#41
Originally Posted by dmp
again - read the f'in chart. He gained as much as 15hp in some areas of the powerband. 15hp gain is 15hp, no matter WHERE the increase.
You guys should be shooting for jumps of 50-100 hp, not 10-20.
I mean, admittedly, the car is a lot of fun with the exhaust, it revs a bit freer (I used to work for Mazda so I've driven the MazdaSpeed - basically a body kit with some rims and an exhaust), but the car still really suffers from a lack of go.
#42
Bummed, but bring on OU!
Well the days of big hp gains from exhaust on nonturbo cars is over. Sure if it was an FD you could pick up 30 or 40 horses from a free flowing exhaust. But I'd say 15 hp max gain is pretty darn good for this car. Plus it looks likes it gains across the power band. You could skip the exhaust and go FI first but eventually your going to change the exhaust if you do. Might as well do the exhaust now, since FI is not readily available.
#43
RX8 and a Truk....
Originally Posted by cretinx
Yes, its still a measly 15 hp gain.
You guys should be shooting for jumps of 50-100 hp, not 10-20.
You guys should be shooting for jumps of 50-100 hp, not 10-20.
1.3L engines - small engines in general do NOT benefit like BIG engines do from mods. Want 50 hp from an exhaust? Buy a corvette.
#44
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Originally Posted by cretinx
Yes, its still a measly 15 hp gain.
You guys should be shooting for jumps of 50-100 hp, not 10-20.
.
You guys should be shooting for jumps of 50-100 hp, not 10-20.
.
#45
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Originally Posted by RX3+5
Are you using stage 1 or 2 and how does it run?
Vince
Vince
my favorite upgrades to date ar e the flywheel from SR and hi flo cat from SR.
very fast car now.
#46
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Originally Posted by JasonHamilton
You cannot tune your CZ without the canscan. While you can change the AFR map, just how that change is effecting your AFR mixtures is unknown. Are you running too lean? Are you still too rich? There isn't any way to tell without th canscan unit.
Read more here: http://tyrannical.org/page-15
Read more here: http://tyrannical.org/page-15
rudy
#47
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Originally Posted by rudy8
i am using the stage 1.1 and i like it alot. i noticed an increase in performance but hear that the real improvements are in the tuning. i think in the spring i will explore that option.
my favorite upgrades to date ar e the flywheel from SR and hi flo cat from SR.
very fast car now.
my favorite upgrades to date ar e the flywheel from SR and hi flo cat from SR.
very fast car now.
Vince
#48
Stage 1 was supposed to be plug and play, no tuning could be done.
stage 2 was stage 1 unit but tunable, and a high flow catback and straight pipe.
since stage 1.1 is tunable, you basically just need to work on your exhaust and tune your map to get "Stage 2"
stage 2 was stage 1 unit but tunable, and a high flow catback and straight pipe.
since stage 1.1 is tunable, you basically just need to work on your exhaust and tune your map to get "Stage 2"
#50
stage 2 map is just a bit more aggressive than the stage 1, and i think they have more advance on the timing. You can still go far more aggressive than that map if you tune it properly, which is why everyone says you gotta tune it to get the power