Yeah, it is definitely an alternator internally. It has a field coil and a stator. I'm just not sure about the rectifier/regulator setup. That is different than typical (and maybe what led to the designation).

 

The AEM Twin-Fire died.
It started blowing fuses the way the original AEM C2DI used to do (they had a huge problem with that - which is why they stopped selling them months before the newer version came out).
I'm going to RMA it.

 

http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=840

 

Marietta8 has been using the HKS Twin Power without issue. He claims there's no gain on an NA car, but has seen it help with FI. If true, I would expect that it might benefit N0S as well. In fact, it's being boxed and sent to me shortly. It's an allowed mod so I picked it up for peace of mind.

Have you tapped into the coil ground wires and tied them into the the battery ground? There are people claiming that this eliminates the coil frying problem. I haven't done this, not sure it's even legal for STU, but haven't had any coil problems either

 

Hey CRH, I am actually partially installed on my twin fire, just gotta get motivated to get the parts needed for the interface that MM had to make. I already have the coils mounted, the twin fire is located in my battery box. all the wires are ran.






i know they arent great pics, i took em wed night in the dark.

hopefully i will have the parts i need and the circuit built to at least test it out by the time you get down here on the 25th

 

I spent some time at the HKS booth talking about their ignition box.
Looked real good on paper.
HKS builds excellent stuff, so I'm sure it will deliver.
Of course, it still depends on having good coils...

 

Was. The whole thing is on the bench right now.

 

Yep.
I keep an entire set in the trunk and another on the shelf in addition to the set in the engine compartment - which is a mixed set of old and older coils.

 

I can't seem to find the part no. for the new OE coils, anybody?

technically I can add the HKS DLI II but not cut into the OE harness, what the DLII will allow is for me to cut into the HKS harness instead, which I can then modify for added coil grounds or even dfifferent coils

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...29&postcount=1

 

the priced dropped almost 50%, there wasn't a TSB so unless you have a proven defective coil you'll have to rely on the std. warranty service for replacement

 

N3H1-18-100

 

i would say so.. the had to change something.. have not heard of anyone burning one of the new ones out, but they have not been out for that long..

beers

 

nope, that's the old number

found it: N3H1-18-100A-9U

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/new-oem-ignition-coils-101317/

you have to use the -9U on the end as there's an "A" revsion on the old coil number too and all three still register in the parts distribution network

$21 ea through Motorsports, w00t
.

 

There is no new-old-stock on the coils. The old P/N dumps you into the new P/N when you put it in the parts survey.

 

Hey mm. are those npn or pnp transistors?

 

I don't remember. I think NPN.

 

it lets me go all the way to checkout payment; $39 for the two old ones and $21 for the new one, but you're right that what gets sent & charged later could possibly be different, but not always, the only guarantee is to order the correct part #

 

That happened to you on a AD POS terminal ?!?

 

Motorsports online order screen, supposedly tied into the system, I tried to do an inventory check and that sysem was currently down, they may come back as 0 inventory, I'll check again later, I have seen superceded parts still available in the system numerous times though

 

I had one that failed and tested abnormal on the pri.

I had another that failed slowly..and seemed to throw codes, but tested normal until it quit completely.

These coils are the most inconsistant that I have seen on any car i have ever worked on.
For $20ish per coil....I would change them like the spark plugs

 

2x

 

there was zero inventory on the old coils, but it didn't automatically revert to the new plug number

 

Strange. It works here.

 

Something just occurred to me -

Isn't the best path to ground for the coil going to be the plug?
Then, why are we worried about the ground of the coil? All it does is give a reference to the trigger signal. As long as it is ground, there should be almost no current across it.
Its the power source to the coils that should be under scrutiny.
The path for the most current is from the positive terminal to the plug (I know electricity flows from negative to positive, but the path is the same) and the plug to coil interface is pretty massive - save the gap that the spark must jump.
On the power side of the coil, each coil is few through a 20ga wire that is bundled with all the other coil wires to a single 20ga wire that runs all the way through the harness and back again.
It seems to me that wiring the plus side with 18ga and then tying them together through a 12ga wire directly to a power source would be the way to maximize current through the coil.

 

can anyone confirm how many amps are needed by the system as opposed to how many amps the system does flow or is capable of flowing? at 12 v of course