DIY Request: SR/RP high flow cat
09-02-2005 | 01:12 AM
#2
The Professor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,479
Likes: 6
From: Omaha, NE
Prepare the following:
Wrenches
WD40 or soapy water to lube up the hangers.
floor jack
4 jackstands
[optional] antiseize
Step 1:
put car on jackstands. If you have to move it, then you will need to let everything cool, because you will scald your skin right off it you try anything before the cat cools.
Step 2:
Look under car, you will see the catalytic converter. Look at the Oxygen sensor. It is the thing screwed into the passanger side of the cat that has an electrical cord attached to it, its pretty hard to miss. Look up the electrical cord and you will see where the o2 sensor connects to another cord that runs to the ECU. Disconnect it. Then use a monkey wrench or a large correct fitting combination wrench to undo the oxygen sensor from the catalytic converter.
Step 3:
Remove the 2 crossbraces under the pipes, they each have 4 bolts and are in the center of the car, note their order and orientation.
Step 4:
undo the spring loaded bolts on the muffler side of the cat(2) and the 3 bolts connected to the downpipe, use WD40 for the stuck bolts, it makes life easier. Save all bolts and hardware.
Step 4:
Look at the length of pipe connected to the exhaust, you will see a section near the exhaust that has a hanger on it that connects with a rubberband to the frame hanger, lube up the rubberband and slide the pipe hanger off. This may take much effort, use a large flathead screwdriver to get leverage.
Look at the same type of hanger on the cat, and repeat the same process, this should go much easier since you have better access to this one.
Step 5:
Once you get the hangers off you will have to support the pipes yourself. You should be able to maunver the cat out. If not, have a friend help you by pulling the exhaust toward the rear of the car(just have them grab the big metal muffler part and pull as hard as they can to give you room), it is on 4 of the same rubberbands and has some flex to move around.
Step 6:
Once the cat is out, look at the muffler end of it to find the 2 long bolts attached and a cone shaped adjoining piece. Take a plastic putty knife and carefully remove the slanted metal fiber gasket from this end. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!
It is fragile, so don't marr it too much.
Step 7:
Take RP cat and stock cat to a muffler shop/meineke and have them take the hanger off the stock cat and put it on the RP cat.
Step 8:
Reattach the muffler pipe to the rubber hanger you removed eariler.
Step 9:
Put the fiber gasket on the new Catalytic converter.
Have a friend help you put the new cat back in place, this one is easier than the first, because the long bolts are seperate and can be squezed in easier.
Step 10:
put everything back together, i used antiseize on all the bolts. Finally screw the o2 sensor back in and reattach it to the wiring.
Dont forget the crossbraces! Dont torque them too much.
Your done.
Wrenches
WD40 or soapy water to lube up the hangers.
floor jack
4 jackstands
[optional] antiseize
Step 1:
put car on jackstands. If you have to move it, then you will need to let everything cool, because you will scald your skin right off it you try anything before the cat cools.
Step 2:
Look under car, you will see the catalytic converter. Look at the Oxygen sensor. It is the thing screwed into the passanger side of the cat that has an electrical cord attached to it, its pretty hard to miss. Look up the electrical cord and you will see where the o2 sensor connects to another cord that runs to the ECU. Disconnect it. Then use a monkey wrench or a large correct fitting combination wrench to undo the oxygen sensor from the catalytic converter.
Step 3:
Remove the 2 crossbraces under the pipes, they each have 4 bolts and are in the center of the car, note their order and orientation.
Step 4:
undo the spring loaded bolts on the muffler side of the cat(2) and the 3 bolts connected to the downpipe, use WD40 for the stuck bolts, it makes life easier. Save all bolts and hardware.
Step 4:
Look at the length of pipe connected to the exhaust, you will see a section near the exhaust that has a hanger on it that connects with a rubberband to the frame hanger, lube up the rubberband and slide the pipe hanger off. This may take much effort, use a large flathead screwdriver to get leverage.
Look at the same type of hanger on the cat, and repeat the same process, this should go much easier since you have better access to this one.
Step 5:
Once you get the hangers off you will have to support the pipes yourself. You should be able to maunver the cat out. If not, have a friend help you by pulling the exhaust toward the rear of the car(just have them grab the big metal muffler part and pull as hard as they can to give you room), it is on 4 of the same rubberbands and has some flex to move around.
Step 6:
Once the cat is out, look at the muffler end of it to find the 2 long bolts attached and a cone shaped adjoining piece. Take a plastic putty knife and carefully remove the slanted metal fiber gasket from this end. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!
It is fragile, so don't marr it too much.
Step 7:
Take RP cat and stock cat to a muffler shop/meineke and have them take the hanger off the stock cat and put it on the RP cat.
Step 8:
Reattach the muffler pipe to the rubber hanger you removed eariler.
Step 9:
Put the fiber gasket on the new Catalytic converter.
Have a friend help you put the new cat back in place, this one is easier than the first, because the long bolts are seperate and can be squezed in easier.
Step 10:
put everything back together, i used antiseize on all the bolts. Finally screw the o2 sensor back in and reattach it to the wiring.
Dont forget the crossbraces! Dont torque them too much.
Your done.
Last edited by staticlag; 09-02-2005 at 01:19 AM.
09-02-2005 | 01:13 PM
#5
Rampage!!! Arghh!!!
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Posted by somebody else in another thread, here are the torque specs:
Ok. Torques starting from front of the cat to the back of the car are as follows:
3 nuts on cat - 28-37 ft-lbs
HO2 - 22-36 ft-lbs
Front tunnel member (skid plate) 13.8-18.8 ft-lbs
Rear tunnel member (rear skid plate) - 13-19.4 ft-lbs
2 bolt rear nuts - 33-44 ft-lbs
3 nuts on cat - 28-37 ft-lbs
HO2 - 22-36 ft-lbs
Front tunnel member (skid plate) 13.8-18.8 ft-lbs
Rear tunnel member (rear skid plate) - 13-19.4 ft-lbs
2 bolt rear nuts - 33-44 ft-lbs
09-02-2005 | 01:41 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Armaan
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Staticlag I do owe you for that your the man. If your in va/dc/md anytime I'll gladly get you as many drinks as you can handle for the night. Nova thanks for the torque specs. Any chance of getting this moved to the DIY section?
03-11-2006 | 02:27 AM
#8
Mmmmm... Rotary Donut
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 4
From: Lake in the Hills, IL (NW Chicago Burbs)
Thanks for writing this up Staticlag. Does the O2 sensor require any special or odd-ball wrench size? I'm getting the RP cat in a couple weeks and want to make sure I have everything ready...
Thanks
Thanks
03-12-2006 | 12:40 AM
#12
v e i l o c i t y
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
Just a suggestion;
When you are 70% done (meaning, when you have removed the stock cat and mounted the hi flow cat to the downpipe and connected the o2 sensor). Leave the back unconnected to the catback system and startup the car and rev it!!! REV IT!!! REV IT!!!
When you are 70% done (meaning, when you have removed the stock cat and mounted the hi flow cat to the downpipe and connected the o2 sensor). Leave the back unconnected to the catback system and startup the car and rev it!!! REV IT!!! REV IT!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JimmyBlack
Series I Major Horsepower Upgrades
273
02-10-2020 11:23 PM