Drivetrain Upgrade: Which one would you go with?
#1
Drivetrain Upgrade: Which one would you go with?
I'm currently contemplating something.....
Ogura Racing Clutch 309 Metal Series Clutch. Lightweight ORC flywheel, HD ORC pressure plate, and single plate design.
or
BHR Stage 2+ w/ BHR Flywheel. Custom spec'd clutch by RX8 enthusiasts.
I have a great hook up on the ORC parts from a buddy. The difference for the ORC versus BHR is about $50 or so. It's typically not a regular customer's price.
Just spec wise. What would you go with and why? I like the light pressure feel, but any other reasons?
Ogura Racing Clutch 309 Metal Series Clutch. Lightweight ORC flywheel, HD ORC pressure plate, and single plate design.
or
BHR Stage 2+ w/ BHR Flywheel. Custom spec'd clutch by RX8 enthusiasts.
I have a great hook up on the ORC parts from a buddy. The difference for the ORC versus BHR is about $50 or so. It's typically not a regular customer's price.
Just spec wise. What would you go with and why? I like the light pressure feel, but any other reasons?
#2
If your plans are to stay NA save some money and go for any "stage I" clutch that you like
Charles sold me a stage I exedy clutch with his flywheel and i love that set-up, the upgraded throw out bearing is an added bonus that i like.
Keep in mind that we have a pretty weak clutch pedal and a weak transmission as well, do you really need the extra clamping force?
Just trying to save you some money
Spec clutches are awesome for what i read here but i have no first hand experience with them.
Charles sold me a stage I exedy clutch with his flywheel and i love that set-up, the upgraded throw out bearing is an added bonus that i like.
Keep in mind that we have a pretty weak clutch pedal and a weak transmission as well, do you really need the extra clamping force?
Just trying to save you some money
Spec clutches are awesome for what i read here but i have no first hand experience with them.
#3
For me.....(since I know a guy handling the US ORC sales)....they're about $50 apart. My main reason for going with the BHR Stage 2+ / BHR Flywheel or the Ogura Racing Clutch 309 Series Metal Clutch is simply because I'll be shooting for the 300 whp goal when I go turbocharged.
I currently have my suspension, wheels, tires, brakes, and other miscellaneous items handled. I'm now slowly gathering the parts together i.e. Cobb AP, SFR turbo kit, and other bits like V-band clamps, turbo blanket, and upgraded couplers.
So if you have a $50 difference....would you go with the ORC or BHR kits. They're both rated for same amount of HP and I've had ORC clutches before.....they don't increase the pedal effort by much. They're whole deal is to provide clamping force while keeping its components as light as possible.
Faster revs for both kits. But I think the weight will determine which one I go with.
I currently have my suspension, wheels, tires, brakes, and other miscellaneous items handled. I'm now slowly gathering the parts together i.e. Cobb AP, SFR turbo kit, and other bits like V-band clamps, turbo blanket, and upgraded couplers.
So if you have a $50 difference....would you go with the ORC or BHR kits. They're both rated for same amount of HP and I've had ORC clutches before.....they don't increase the pedal effort by much. They're whole deal is to provide clamping force while keeping its components as light as possible.
Faster revs for both kits. But I think the weight will determine which one I go with.
#4
Charles,
Thank you for your input. I actually have most of my pieces together for a turbo install. The main reason for the upgraded clutch would be for the extra power (shooting for the 300hp mark) that should be coming soon.
My OEM clutch was never abused, but it's definitely showing signs of slippage. I'm sure the previous owner wasn't so kind to the clutch....therefore I'm having to replace it at 45k miles. I've NEVER had to replace my clutch before 75k miles on any car that I owned. I'm sure the previous owner glazed the organic disk that's in there.
The clutch pedal bracket has already been welded so I'm not worried too much about the extra pedal effort.
There is also the ORC light version available. It's said to be almost stock-like with the pedal effort. And it still has the same single-plate design as the ORC 309 metal clutch.
Can I get the weight for your Stage 2? With all the BHR flywheel and counterweight added?
Thank you for your help.
Thank you for your input. I actually have most of my pieces together for a turbo install. The main reason for the upgraded clutch would be for the extra power (shooting for the 300hp mark) that should be coming soon.
My OEM clutch was never abused, but it's definitely showing signs of slippage. I'm sure the previous owner wasn't so kind to the clutch....therefore I'm having to replace it at 45k miles. I've NEVER had to replace my clutch before 75k miles on any car that I owned. I'm sure the previous owner glazed the organic disk that's in there.
The clutch pedal bracket has already been welded so I'm not worried too much about the extra pedal effort.
There is also the ORC light version available. It's said to be almost stock-like with the pedal effort. And it still has the same single-plate design as the ORC 309 metal clutch.
Can I get the weight for your Stage 2? With all the BHR flywheel and counterweight added?
Thank you for your help.
#5
Okay....now I understand the ORC a bit better:
ORC Light 400 Clutch has organic disks - single plate design
ORC 309 Metal Clutch has something else for their disks.
I'm not choosing one over the other yet. If BHR is logical.....I'll go logical. However, if you have a buddy that can get you ORC goods for below retail.....I'm sure you'd consider as at least an option.
ORC Light 400 Clutch has organic disks - single plate design
ORC 309 Metal Clutch has something else for their disks.
I'm not choosing one over the other yet. If BHR is logical.....I'll go logical. However, if you have a buddy that can get you ORC goods for below retail.....I'm sure you'd consider as at least an option.
#7
You don't want a "metal" clutch disc for a Daily driver......hell you really don't want them for a racecar..but sometimes you need them
They are abrupt, shocky..and very unforgiving at anything but full power shifts.
Stick with a Stage 1 or 2 (+) full disc...you will enjoy the car a lot more...and sure don't need anything stronger.
They are abrupt, shocky..and very unforgiving at anything but full power shifts.
Stick with a Stage 1 or 2 (+) full disc...you will enjoy the car a lot more...and sure don't need anything stronger.
#8
Ahhh.....
That was the information I was looking for. I was under the impression that the ORC 309 Single Plate model was an organic disk, but it only looks as if the ORC light models (only up to 250ps) are the ones with the full organic disks.
Since my power goals exceed that of the light model and the metal clutch model has a much harsher engagement......
I think I'll be ordering the BHR clutch / flywheel combo.
That was the information I was looking for. I was under the impression that the ORC 309 Single Plate model was an organic disk, but it only looks as if the ORC light models (only up to 250ps) are the ones with the full organic disks.
Since my power goals exceed that of the light model and the metal clutch model has a much harsher engagement......
I think I'll be ordering the BHR clutch / flywheel combo.
#10
I didn't want to get too far afield yet by discussing metal disc clutches until Eddie asked about them but thanks, Dan, for mentioing it.
Metal discs will chew the **** out of your flywheel surface. Look at it this way, during the time the pressure plate "swings" through the friction zone, there is going to be heat shed in one form or another. With metal discs it is the flywheel surface which becomes the sacrificial material. That is because, as Dannobre mentioned, these discs are not intended to allow much slippage. That is why they are used in serious racecars only. They can afford the cost of material-loss, diminished driveability, and increased noise.
Metal discs will chew the **** out of your flywheel surface. Look at it this way, during the time the pressure plate "swings" through the friction zone, there is going to be heat shed in one form or another. With metal discs it is the flywheel surface which becomes the sacrificial material. That is because, as Dannobre mentioned, these discs are not intended to allow much slippage. That is why they are used in serious racecars only. They can afford the cost of material-loss, diminished driveability, and increased noise.
And as CRH kindly explained this......I found the other page in the catalog which details the rebuild disks, flywheels, and etc. The rebuild alone would be as much as the clutch itself.
Thank you guys for clarifying this. Let's see now:
ORC only has an organic disk kit that is rated up to 250 ps.
BHR has a variety of options.
So definitely, I am ditching the ORC plans then. I'm a bit weary of SPEC clutches though......I've had bad experience on two occasions: My Miata and my S2000.
They grabbed excellently, but over some hard driving......both units completely got obliterated. If I recall correctly, I remember both were OTS units mated with Toda flywheels on both cars and they just stopped working one day. I believe both cars were pull-type units.
CRH did let me know that the RX8 specific kits are indeed a push-type.....which I like a whole lot more. I'm sure you guys can understand if you've had parts from a specific manufacturer break on you.......would you go back?
With BHR's team behind it, Kane on his ported, turbo Renny, and more......I think I might just give SPEC another shot.
#11
^^^
Didn't know there was a "change" in their products since my last experience with them in '06.
I love your ignition kit and I love your service. Now I'm sure I'll love your Stage 2+ BHR Clutch/Flywheel.
I'll be sending you my order shortly.
Thanks guys!
Didn't know there was a "change" in their products since my last experience with them in '06.
I love your ignition kit and I love your service. Now I'm sure I'll love your Stage 2+ BHR Clutch/Flywheel.
I'll be sending you my order shortly.
Thanks guys!
#12
how did you make your pressure plate so light? makes me wish i had gone with it. >_>
i measured my stock pp at 14lbs though. my act hd at 12ishlbs.
i do have to say my ceramic pucked clutch is a real bitch to DD. everyone told me not to get it, but i guess i just dont learn until i experience it. haha. my next clutch will definitely be a full face.
i measured my stock pp at 14lbs though. my act hd at 12ishlbs.
i do have to say my ceramic pucked clutch is a real bitch to DD. everyone told me not to get it, but i guess i just dont learn until i experience it. haha. my next clutch will definitely be a full face.
#13
how did you make your pressure plate so light? makes me wish i had gone with it. >_>
i measured my stock pp at 14lbs though. my act hd at 12ishlbs.
i do have to say my ceramic pucked clutch is a real bitch to DD. everyone told me not to get it, but i guess i just dont learn until i experience it. haha. my next clutch will definitely be a full face.
i measured my stock pp at 14lbs though. my act hd at 12ishlbs.
i do have to say my ceramic pucked clutch is a real bitch to DD. everyone told me not to get it, but i guess i just dont learn until i experience it. haha. my next clutch will definitely be a full face.
I loved that clutch in my Miata, but haven't seen too many reviews on it on this forum.
Thanks CRH for enlightening us a bit more on clutches. I like the fact that SPEC has taken responsibility (with the aid of your field tests and experiences) and actually changed the required components for future kits.
I wish Greddy would've done that with their couplers, BOV, and other pieces in the kit.
#15
i'd have to drop the trans for that. i'll do it at my next clutch change. that should be what, 30k miles from now? i mean, i am bhr's first customer to order a replacement friction plate for the flywheel, right?
i have the act zm8-hdg4 clutch kit.
http://www.amazon.com/ACT-ZM8-HDG4-H.../dp/B000LZS5ZG
when driving flat out (or above 50-60%) the clutch is amazing. it just grabs and holds. when starting slowly, its a real b-iI-iI-iI-iI-iI-tch.
i have the act zm8-hdg4 clutch kit.
http://www.amazon.com/ACT-ZM8-HDG4-H.../dp/B000LZS5ZG
when driving flat out (or above 50-60%) the clutch is amazing. it just grabs and holds. when starting slowly, its a real b-iI-iI-iI-iI-iI-tch.
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