here is the 184.5 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxGhFA8kC_A

here is the 193.6 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDD6EAloJGQ

 

I hate to say it but your results are well within the margin of error.

Vince

 

seems to me the logical thing would be to throw the one abnormally high result out the window and then look at the rest and say you made about 3hp... which is about the 2-3% gain i remember measureing back in my oil industry days

(couldn't advertise the gains though because of the legal department said you needed to be able to feel the gains in order to advertise a gain... several thousand dollars later that number turned out to be 5% power difference)

 

or average out the first three and the last three. either way it's still alittle higher. I like your way better though. take the one that is a little higher then the "norm" and toss it.

 

I assume you only drained the engine oil pan rather than the complete oil cooler plumbing too?

 

correct.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ght=oil+change

beers

 

Stop Selling your own thread

 

Hmm, Well to be more *fair* I think you should've drain the whole thing, let it warm up and run all the way to redline.

Nice post btw !

 

How can you compare a dyno run of 7,000 RPM to one with 9,500 RPM?

Why was it so convient that the sponsor who paid for the dyno have his run to 9.5k?

Post the print outs. Please

 

Razz, read what I said about the power falling off at 7800 (not 7000). there was no point in going furthar. (at least in the techs eyes. had I been the one doing the test I would have stayed on it all the way.... havent I said this about a bajillion times now)

also, I am the one who found the place to dyno the car. he had nothing to do with it.

not to mention it would be VERY difficult to get 3 runs "sand bagged" within 1.5 h.p. of each other. the first 3 runs were very consistant. the last 3 were consistantly higher. (peak at least...)


nycgps, yeah your right. I should have thought about that at the time. This is what I have been saying this whole time.

 

hey it works. it is not like a make anything off of my self promotion... it is to help the greater good...

help those that help themselves...


beers

 

I am curious why the power output on Amsoil wasn't consistent though. That's a bit suspect. I'm not saying that you didn't get more power with the Amsoil over the conventional. That doesn't surprise me at all. Originally when Racing Beat first picked up Royal Purple, they'd been using and recommending Amsoil for years for use in rotaries. They switched to Royal Purple because they found a power increase with it over what they had been using. You won't find Amsoil there anymore. I still feel it is a quality oil though. Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Redline are the synthetics that I like.

 

yeah I dont know. the first three runs were very consistant. the last three had two runs that were pretty close.... the 185 and 187. but yeah the 193 is a little "out of the ordinary".

like I said, just for shoots and giggles take out the 193 and go with the 187....

I really need to go down there and see if he still has all 6 runs. I would like to see all of them to see how each run went. I will of course post all 6 runs when I get those.

 

cool writeup, thanks for the info.

When I visited Royal Purple, they had a dyno showing an RX8 before and after RP oils, and it netted about 3WHP. Obviously, that is also in the "margin for error" category, but its interesting nonetheless.

how many miles do you have on the car?

 

2004 with 15k.

that is interesting. I understand the "margin of error" but if Royal purple did a test with 3 runs consistent, then 3 more consistently higher, then I think "in my eyes" it then falls out of the margin of error.

 

speeddemon--did you ever find out why you started loosing power after 7K with the dino oil? Are the plugs/coils is good shape and the maf clean? When our Ga group nmembers had this power out put drop at high rpm the aformentioned items were the cause. I like this post and your findings and agreed with them. Just curious as why that occured.
SYnthetics are the best for the 8. AMsoil is good(for your sponser! )
olddragger

 

he he, thanks olddragger. nice to see you were reading my post and understanding my disclaimers so to speak. he he

anyways, no I have not really looked into it furthar. I figured it was the oil accually since a simple oil changed fixed it. but I will look into it more. thanks for the head start on what to look at!

 

Speed...if your sponsor wants to run another car....I'm interested.

I'll allow him the before and after dynos as well and we'll see if the same percentage gain is found on 2 cars. I wouldn't be interested in changing out the air filter though given the RB intake set-up I already have.

Give Mark my number if he's interested. I will be running the Cal Club, SD events, and will be at the Prosolo. More bang for his buck.

 

fwiw, I have 5W20 dino engine oil and 85W140 synthetic trans and diff oil, the factory stock car has the factory fluids ...

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=159

I love the Amsoil 2000 0W30 engine oil, the best IMO and I ran it in all my piston engines, I've chosen not to use synthetic engine oil in my Renesis for personal reasons. I use Amsoil for pre-mix. Once the Kaaz LSD goes in I'll be using their required Kaaz 80W90 diff oil, it's dino oil, not synthetic.

 

I will let him know for you

also I went by the dyno shop today on lunch. I picked up all 6 runs (although run 2 didnt graph ) I will make some sence out of this program then post the 5 runs that did graph.

I told him about some of your concerns. he stands by his "no reason to continue once an engine starts to fall off" he stated that he has done this for a long time and back when he was new at it he would have stayed in it till the redline, but now finds no reason to as all it does is hurt the engine more then it needs to..... or something like that. I gotta admit, I kinda agree with him.

now as to why it was falling off, I have no idea. by looking at the graphs I am noticing some pretty serious ignition cut outs. the graphs gets rather "connect the dotish" towrds the end.... in fact very connect the dottish.

the guy offered to re dyno the car tomorrow for free just to see how it does with warmer oil. maybe we can get a cleaner signal also.

unfortunatly we will be unable to re dyno the car with the dino oil and royal purple and all that fun stuff. but I thought that was pretty cool of him to re dyno the car tomorrow.

 

all oils were because that is what he recomended. I guess a "top of the line" replacement is what he was looking for.

 

"contains little to no sulpher-phosphorus found in GL-5 oils. Sulpher-phosphorus is a minor catalyst to copper alloy corrsion, and guess what synchros are made from? (Yet many people choose GL-5 without realizing that)."

This is a concern of mine, and has delayed my decision on tranny fluid. Per Royal Purple's website, their MaxGear GL4/GL5 is NOT corrosive to soft syncro metals. I think I will go with this b/c of all the positive feedback from rotary owners.

 

I know the fact that gl-5 oil can be destructive to some copper components but as per our manual or the service manual, the oil that is recommended is 75w-90 gl-5 or gl-4. This would lead me to believe that our parts are not susceptible to the corrosion caused by the gl-5 oils. Would this be correct?

Specified oil grade
API Service GL-4 or GL-5
Specified oil viscosity
SAE 75W-90
Capacity (approx. quantity)
1.75 L {1.85 US qt, 1.54 lmp qt}

 

Ok, i might be wrong here, but from what i remember of my college career, i believe they would have told me that the blue graph was more powerful than the red one, right?

Isn't the total area of the old graph higher than the new one? Doesn't this graph show power loss?