Im trying to get my Normally Aspirated 04 MT RX8 up to 220 whp and im trying to think of all possible ways to get it up (no pun intended)

so far i have
Turbo XS Exhaust
Turbo XS Midpipe
Racing Beat Intake

and i plan on getting
cobb ap
act lightened flywheel
ap pulleys
mishimoto radiator
obx header

plz let me know what i can add to give my rx8 a little more bump

 

220 whp NA is a tall order. You will not be able to get a couple of bolt-ons and reach it. You are going to have to consider things like removing your air-conditioning. How extreme are you willing to get to try and reach your target number?

 

of the stuff listed above the cobb ap with maps by mazdamaniac is the only thing that might give you more than 3hp.


and for the most part. you are not likely to hit 210whp.

beers

 

i think it will be hard to do it, but it's your money, so you can do what ever you wanna do.
this is my advice, try to add up all the cost of the parts and compare to the cost of turbo (with all things that are needed), so you can see which way you can do.
NA is what i read in this forum, the most with all things done is 200 WHP, but turbo, 260 WHP can be done. think about it, but it's y our money, do what ever you think that can make you happy toward the car which you will drive.
steven

 

well a turbo is an option...and initially it would be cheaper but whats maintenance like on a turbo (most likely greddy)

 

220 WHP NA is going to be tough even with all the best parts money can buy. You might make it, or you might not, some motors are just stronger then others.

If you are serious about HP you will eventually go FI so any parts you put on should be compatible with FI. The turbo XS header back and MM AP are must for any FI but AP pulleys not so much. Pulleys dont do much for power. The best reason to get underdrive pulleys is for the waterpump but its an even better idea to just get the mazmart water pump.

Also, strongly consider the BHR radiator and lightweight flywheel instead of the act lightened flywheel and mishimoto radiator. Speaking of the flywheel, IMHO its not really worth doing the flywheel unless you have to do a clutch because you wont do the flywheel without a clutch and by the time you are done you will have spent $1000-1500 for parts and install.

Header is not going to make for then 3-4 HP and is not really worth it unless you go with a supercharger.

One big thing left off your list is an ignition upgrade. The BHR kit is very popular, a great value and probably the best kit available.

Good luck and get used to everyone saying you should just go with FI.

 

it is going to be tough but i think it is doable. i think it is a good start with what you have already because when i had similar to what you have, but without an ap i got 203 hp to the wheels. i think a lightened flywheel, better clutch, ignition upgrade, headers (if you are willing to spend the money), lighter wheels, and getting your ap tuned by a pro can get you up there.

 

I got 213 on a mustang dyno N/A with all bolt ons. Team RX8 with his custom one-off exhaust got 220ish

 

that's a decent list you have but you probably wont see 220 like others have mentioned. If you go with turbo, I would not touch the greddy kit unless you intend on upgrading it. With good kits, you shouldn't encounter too many maintenance issues that rack up costs...

off topic: You sold the grey/silver car right?

 

That setup will probably give you 200-210whp.

Skip the OBX Header and get a better one.

 

What they all said...N/A unless you tweak and tune to a disgusting degree...200 is about the highest you will see...

Best option...snail...

 

yea i sold old 8 picked up MT

 

yeah, just making sure... saw an 8 driving like an idiot the other night that was either grey or silver and it had a really loud exhaust (louder than my RB w/ catless midpipe) and wanted to make sure it wasnt you lol

Another cheaper option would be nitrous... though I dont think they allow that for track/auto-x sometimes so if that's what you were going for, then nitrous wouldnt work for that...

 

Honestly, if you want speed I would keep the 8 stock and buy a motorcycle. Cause your going to end up spending the same price as a new bike if you want to get the 8 to higher levels.

 

prolly was me

 

fast and NA are two terms not to be used together for the rx8

ok i'm off to the fi threads again now - heh

 

okay i get it...go FI
i was planning on doing that anyway was just weighing other options

 

if all you care about is peak horsepower, you're in this for all the wrong reasons.

peak horsepower doesn't mean anything.

we call people like that "dyno queens."

 

Just to note, lighter wheels lighter flywheel, and pulleys will NOT add any horsepower. The car will accelerate faster, yes, but your dyno results will not be improved. Make sense?

Also, my understanding is that headers do very little, if anything, for this car, but I haven't seen too many well-controlled comparisons.

 

things that will help you

a good set of headers.
lightened flywheel
lighter rims
lighter brake discs
lighter tires (toyo t1r?)
cobb ap
get your car tuned
polished throttle body (contact BDC motorsports)
new plugs and coils

oh and of course, a good compression engine.

and money pit, realize that alot of these mods will add horsepower over the entire range.

elysium, lighter everything will be more hp. maybe just not a lot. the lighter you make all rotational mass the more wheel horsepower you will have. lighter rotors in the engine will give you more horsepower as well. this is all about reducing drivetrain loss. the lighter the components in the drivetrain, the more hp. why do you think we have a cf drive shaft?

 

yeah with some very good tunes u may get 220 but maybe not for the money u will spend you can get a used greddy kit and buy the AP and only spend 2500 or so and u will b WELL over 220 about 250 everyday and if u really upgrade turbo, injectors, ignition solutino etc etc well over 300 is very capable!

 

CRH just dynoed 211 NA with a ported block, so 220 is a tall order

 

yeah 211 ported compared to 250+ going FI personally I would go FIJ(maybe that's y I am)

 

i was just trying to illustrate the fact that "fastest n/a" (the thread title) and trying to get the most horsepower do not compute well together and are often independent of eachother.

 

Its not worth the money to stay N/A to only get 220 whp.