I gave up on the search for this one after reading some reviews.

About 2 weeks ago, I had my Fidanza flywheel, Exedy Stage 1 clutch, and SS clutch and brake lines installed. I kept the car under 4k rpms for ~500 miles for a break-in period since that's what it was for my Eclipse. I'm ~720 miles into the setup and the car feels GREAT!!! But now, every time I take the car up in the high RPM range (6500+), the clutch feels "spongy", kind of like a brake pedal does after you change your brake pads and have to build up pressure. The pedal is nice and firm in the low end (almost like stock), and the engagement point is a lot closer to the floor than it used to be (which I personally like), but it seems the higher the RPMs go, the softer the clutch pedal gets. Is this normal? If it's a problem, has anyone else had it or know why it's happening?

 

Your clutch piston is not correctly adjusted, this is what moved the engaugement point closer to the floor. You should correct this back to normal height, as the clutch wears more, you will not be able to shift it out of gear without grinding the syncros.

The "changing disengaugement point" is caused by air in the lines.

 

So I need to just adjust my clutch pedal back to stock height? I have no clue how to do that, but I'm searching right now...

Thanks!

Edit: is it this process, post #6?
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-illustrated-cluch-pedal-adjustment-96365/

 

LOL Thanks Charles. You're a busy man, so I try not to pester you too much with my newbness.

The pedal HEIGHT is perfect, so I don't want to tinker with that (with I could say the same for the GAS pedal). I just want to adjust where it engages, so I should only need to adjust the bolts addressed in post 6, and then check for activation on both switches.

I'll be getting into this tonight a little after 7pm, so everyone be ready for some panicked n00b posting! LOL

Thanks again to all!

 

i think i know what you are talking about i have the same flywheel and a stage 3 clutch from clutch masters and my pedal feels different it not. and i also think that the Exedy Stage 1 is what the manual rx8s already come with from the factory because it was talk about some where on this thread before.

 

why would you get a stage 3 clutch if you dont have the hp?

we can go FI with the greddy kit and we are still within the specs for stage 1..... lol...

 

our factory clutch is below stage 1?

ah, the benefits of 215bhp.

 

stage 3 is for the custom turbo i plan to build this summer thats why. i rather be prepared instead of buying something twice just reinsurance thats all. Plus with my setup just a clucth and flywheel and exhaust it pulls a lot harder than a stock rx8. that doest have a clutch and flywheel swap.

 

Yeah, +6 whp is amazing.

 

Holy ****! You live in Laveen? I'll be out that way this afternoon for my monthly Team V-Locity car club meeting! Small world!

Anyway, I still haven't had a chance to check on this and adjust the pedal. I'm gonna try to get into it today.

 

Time > Me these days, so I still haven't adjusted the pedal yet. I'm dedicating this evening to doing so and getting my baby back in "Smooth Operator" mode. But...

I've been noticing a lot of high rpm gear grinding in my car lately too now. When I take it all the way up and shift (anywhere over 7.5k), I get the grind. When I blip the throttle and down-shift to rev match (amazing with the new FW BTW!), I get the same grind. It seems almost exactly like the synchro issue, but I was told by a VERY trusted Mazda mechanic and forum member that the synchros are good.

Could my grinding problem be because of the need for pedal adjustment also? Perhaps the clutch isn't properly engaging all the way at high RPMS beacuse of the pedal sponginess?

 

the clutch not engaging high like it used to, like someone already said, is probably due to having air in the line. You can release the bleeder valve at the clutch and take the cap off of the master cylinder. Press the clutch in and it should shoot some dot3/4 fluid out and you should be able to see the change in the master cylinder too. (It helps A LOT to have 2 people...even if the other knows nothing. All they have to do is press the clutch pedal.) Add more fluid as the master cylinder supply starts to drop. Never let the fluid get below the min line, as this will start to let air in and defeat your efforts.

Some people choose to attach a small hose to the bleeder valve and route it to a small bucket or jug of water, that way they can see the bubbles of air as they come out of the line. When the bubbles stop, there is no more air in the line. You should then be able to close the bleeder valve and start to pump the hell out of the clutch pedal. It will fall to the floor most likely right off the bat, but it will start to engage earlier and earlier. continue to monitor the master cylinder to make sure it doesn't drop any farther.

 

Thanks! I went back and saw where I missed that the first time (thanks to staticlag too). I though that line of text was part of his sig, so I skipped over it.

I've been sick and am now addicted to GTA IV, so I have to get this done tonight.