Hello All,

Here is a brief list of performance mods I will put in my car starting next year. I'd really like some suggestions as to the order of the upgrades, etc.

I wanna dabble in Auto-Cross and Road Courses but this will be my daily driver.

Also, i don't want to go with FI because it will void my warranty and i still have 50.000mi left before it runs out.

REV8 Cat Back Exhaust
RP SuperCat
AP Pulleys
Cobb AccessPort
SPEC Stage 1 Clutch and Flywheel

All of those together w/o shipping is just under $2800.

Any suggestions? Also, am i wrong to expect over 200-220 whp after all of those mods?

 

You might want to think about an intake aswell

 

Well i did read in the Cobb AP discussion that most 3rd party CAI can cause A/F ratio issues with aggressive AP maps....am I incorrect?

 

The warrenty issues are dependant on what issues you have and whom fixes them. Just FYI you may get to the point, where you want to claim that warrenty and they may say its null and void due to any one of those 5 mods your planning on getting. Whomever does it is most likely going to try to do whatever they can to get out of the warrenty.

 

I figured that would happen because of the Cobb AP and/or the SPEC Clutch and Flywheel.

At least with the ECU i can reflash it before i leave it at the dealership.

 

if you want to dabble with autocross you can remove pretty much your whole list if you want to be competitive. The only mod you can run in BS that is on your list is the Catback exhaust.

 

How about a lot of track days?

 

The factory clutch is a darned good one so I would wait until you have roasted yours, first. By then, the BHR/SPEC clutches will have been fixed and you can save 3.8 lbs. from the rotating mass by getting the clutch kit. Add to it the BHR 9.0 lb. flywheel and you have the lightest rotating mass assembly without spending $1,200-$1,500 on a billet pressure plate.

The factory intake box is really nice, especially with N/A apps.

The rest on your list looks good but most of us tend to encourage new RX-8 owners to spend a LOT of time on the track before worrying about power mods as the car is FAR more capable than 99% of their owners will ever know.

That said, I would suggest (for repeated track use) that you get a better set of brake pads as the factory set is prone to a bit of fade on track days. Then a set of swaybars. Next, the Cobb AP from MazdaManiac. After that, a cat-back system and a catless or high-flow catpipe is cool.

 

I think that a shorter final gear would help a lot for autoX and track days, or at least i find mine to be useful

 

Perhaps, but the total cost/benefit ratio is too small at this time.

 

I don't think so, 20whp more don't make much of a difference "time" wise. Having a better gearing does.
The real cost is the extra transmission wear due to the extra shifting though.

 

I've recently had the exact same problem of compiling a list of mods to start with.
After searching and help from a few forum members I picked the build that was right for me. I've got the same plans for the car as you so might I suggest a look at my build.
Exhaust: Everyone has a diff preference, I chose the HKS Ti single - $400 shipped
Ignition Wire Swap: Essential mod as the wiring on our cars isn't so great - $90
Progress F/R Anti-Roll/Sway: Great improvement in handling - $310-320
AFE StS: Almost essential with MT's - $269

That adds up to around $1069..given that these are all installed by you (as they should be) But if you don't have friends with shops/lifts, figure in install costs.

From there, you have a choice to make, you can either contribute more to performance: Cobb AP with MM maps, coilovers, new tires, F/R Strut bars, midpipe, etc.

Or,

You could focus on backing up the performance you've already got: Water pump upgrade, Radiator(My choice was BHR, people have had HORRIBLE problems with Koyo), gauges to monitor oil pressure, temp, etc.

You've got some wiggle room if you pick your build right, $2800 is plenty for a first batch of mods.

 

Well thanks for all of the input.

First things first, i don't want to get a shorter final gear, thats way to much money for the gain. Like i said I want to dabble in Auto Cross and track. Like a few times a year.

Most of my time will be just enjoying my car weaving between lanes and zipping though turns.

Secondly, im confused. If lets say i get good at autocross, is there a limited list of mods i can have on my car?

Also CHR, you hit the nail on the head. I'm gonna replace my clutch and fly when my current clutch goes.

My max spending for performance mods is under 3k. Mainly because by the time i spend that much money i'll have enough saved to trade up to a newer RX-8. Thats why i don't want to drop 6k-7k on a complete turbo kit.

 

You're right then, if you have that kind of limited budget and don't intend to track your car that much the final gear is out.
By the way, sempre azzurro?

 

Autocross is divided up in competitive classes. The classes are arranged where those who are rich can spend to their hearts delight, and those that are not so rich(but not exactly poor, rubber is expensive) can still compete.

The RX-8 is most competitive in the latter. It's the current king of B-Stock.

In stock classes you can only modify shocks, front swaybar, brake pads, intake fiter element(not the box), cat back exhaust(no headers or catalytic converteres I believe),ignition, fluids, wheels(same size + or - 5 offset), and any DOT tire you can cram on the wheel(including DOT R comps)

Or you can mod to your hearts delight, sign up for X class and have fun.

 

The idea that the RX-8 is more competitive the more it must remain stock is quite telling and proves the point that the RX-8 is well-designed as it comes from Mazda. Thus, effective mods are rather limited.

 

Lightweight wheels and a great pair of tyres are a possible good one for that.
And just great tyres if you cant afford / be bothered with the wheels.

As Charles rightly says the 8 is great out of the box handling wise.

Rather than changing the gearing a short shifter is a quick n easy mod that will help you make positive changes.

 

sure but they are totally different mods! For what my small experience tells the shorter final gear (4.777 in my case) is one the best mods that can be done to the power train while remaining NA. Anyway the OP said that he doesn't need it for his use so, a STS will be a good mod if you are not a guy that hammers the gearbox much.

 

how much does this final gear swap end up costing?

 

I can't tell you since i live in europe, but the install is tricky.

 

Alright so if i've gotten this right...if i want to compete in autocross i need to scratch the pulleys. Also the clutch will be replaced when my current one goes.

So the updated list in order:

1) REV8 Cat-Back Exhaust and RP SuperCAT
2) Struts and Sways
3) ECU
4) Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel

All of those will run me under 3300 w/o shipping. Which is a little bit more then i wanted to spend... Yet i know that 3300 is peanuts compared to the smile i will get when i plant my foot on the gas at the apex of a turn.

 

the rev8 is heavier than the stock exhaust, i believe. You might want something lighter for autoX. Given that 3 or 4hp won't make a difference, weight will.
again: sempre azzurro?

 

If you know youre going to be getting rid of this car soon, maybe you should just save the money. Dont get me wrong, its cool that you want to trade up; but 3500 bucks will get you further at the time of trading in than right now with mods. My .02; take it or leave it

 

I'll trade up when im out of college and have a solid career. In the mean time i want to have fun and enjoy my car. Which means throwing money into parts that won't help my resale.

 

Rev8 is heavier than stock, as aforementioned. How often do you plan on tracking the car? If your clutch isn't on it's last leg of life you have no need in replacing it yet, installation is a PITA. Cobb AP is a great mod to have for our cars but that, and your lwfw/clutch could be replaced with cooling mods if you plan on tracking the car often. Remember, the AP alters the cut-on/off times for the fans, and you also burn more oil as a result of the tuning done by the AP maps.