Got tired of waiting for a battey relocation kit.
03-07-2007, 02:24 PM
#51
The only reason TeamRX8 is doing it this way is because you can't legally modify the Washer Fluid Bottle in the SCCA STU Class. Really wish you could too because i don't wanna take out 26lbs of battery and add it back with cables running to the trunk remote disconnect switches and remote terminals in the enginebay.
03-20-2007, 01:01 PM
#52
Well Sipe i've decided to go your route, with ebay everything ended up costing less then $100 bucks (not including the battery):
2 quick questions though: first about the draw of remote terminals/MDS i'm wondering if the MDS should be inbetween the +Battery line and the +Charging post or in between the cars exisiting +cable and the +Charging post illustrated:
battery+____MDS____+remote terminal______+cars existing cable
OR:
battery+____________+remote terminal______MDS_____+cars existing cable
Next I couldn't find anything in the rule book about it but I know for NHRA and others if you relocate the battery the MDS must be in someplace easily accessible does this stipulation exist for the SCCA?
2 quick questions though: first about the draw of remote terminals/MDS i'm wondering if the MDS should be inbetween the +Battery line and the +Charging post or in between the cars exisiting +cable and the +Charging post illustrated:
battery+____MDS____+remote terminal______+cars existing cable
OR:
battery+____________+remote terminal______MDS_____+cars existing cable
Next I couldn't find anything in the rule book about it but I know for NHRA and others if you relocate the battery the MDS must be in someplace easily accessible does this stipulation exist for the SCCA?
03-20-2007, 08:00 PM
#53
FYI, found out that the charging posts are a larger diameter than the standard battery post, a friend machined them down on a lathe for me so that I could clamp on the OE battery terminals
I plan to mount my disconnect near the battery in the trunk to separate the battery from the rest of the system when not in use, for autocross you aren't required to have a readily accessible disconnect. I prefer to disconnect the battery power during non-use to conserve power. Sitting several weeks unused with the small battery connected will result in it draining below the necessary cranking voltage.
I plan to mount my disconnect near the battery in the trunk to separate the battery from the rest of the system when not in use, for autocross you aren't required to have a readily accessible disconnect. I prefer to disconnect the battery power during non-use to conserve power. Sitting several weeks unused with the small battery connected will result in it draining below the necessary cranking voltage.
03-20-2007, 08:16 PM
#54
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
FYI, found out that the charging posts are a larger diameter than the standard battery post, a friend machined them down on a lathe for me so that I could clamp on the OE battery terminals
Now if i only had a metal fabrication shop so that i can make the "shelf" where i'll have the positive and negative terminals as well as the remote disconnect, suggestions?
03-21-2007, 09:29 AM
#55
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearwater,FL
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would not worry about splicing things, it would be just as easy making new runs.
1 4awg to the Fuse box
1 4awg to the charging system
1 8awg to the power stearing.
If I was mounting it in the back I would do the following.
1 4awg to the Fuse box
1 4awg to the charging system
1 8awg to the power stearing.
If I was mounting it in the back I would do the following.
04-25-2007, 01:30 PM
#57
Momentum Keeps Me Going
There is a difference in idle for me between the MJT and OEM Hi-Cap battery. Engine idles a little slower, like it really needs the alternator output to feel 'normal' (similar to the big battery). Beyond idle everything appears the same.
04-27-2007, 06:54 PM
#62
Originally Posted by PoLaK
.. but what do I know. 
... only what somebody else told you ...
http://quickcar.net/electric/electric.html
04-27-2007, 07:04 PM
#63
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
How many ft of wire did it take? I guess I should order a couple of feet extra. Do you have a parts list team? Can I see how you connected it up front? Thanks.
Polak, exactly why wouldn't you use 4 guage wire? Thanks.
Polak, exactly why wouldn't you use 4 guage wire? Thanks.
04-27-2007, 09:15 PM
#64
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Polak, exactly why wouldn't you use 4 guage wire? Thanks.
Originally Posted by teamrx8
My car doesn't see extended high-draw electrical loads either, limited street use, base model, no added equipment, some equipment is removed such as AC etc. All ends are properly crimped onto pure brass terminals and shrink tube sealed. Battery connections are pure brass and plated with 24 ct gold. For longer term storage an automated 2A trickle charger is kept on the battery. The cables have very limited exposure. The majority is routed comfortably underneath trim panels.
Originally Posted by Spin9k
245A TOTAL AMPS
PLUS add to this the charge wire from the alternator circuit with battery charge AMPS (this is the battery terminal after all). This I'll not use in the calculations, although it is actually a large but variable AMP loading.
You say you have taken all this current to the trunk with a 4 guage wire. A 4 guage wire has the following recommended capacity from the chart of American Wire Gauge (AWG) wire sizes and rated ampacities :
max amps = 135 (free air) or max amps = 60 (bundled wire)
As a worst case (not including alternator charge current) of 245A at 12V (nominal operating voltage is of course higher), using 10ft of wire to the trunk there is a 1.251V (10.43%) drop in that 10' of 4 guage wire alone.
Using Watts=amps x volts 245A x 1.251V = 306.5
possible watts dissipated in that 10' of wire
You might want to consider resizing that cable. Granted the system does not work at 'fuse capacity' normally, but fuses are there to show potential load worst case. And I didn't include charging current, which will always be there to some extent. And there is no fuse in the car (or shown) for that current.
PLUS add to this the charge wire from the alternator circuit with battery charge AMPS (this is the battery terminal after all). This I'll not use in the calculations, although it is actually a large but variable AMP loading.
You say you have taken all this current to the trunk with a 4 guage wire. A 4 guage wire has the following recommended capacity from the chart of American Wire Gauge (AWG) wire sizes and rated ampacities :
max amps = 135 (free air) or max amps = 60 (bundled wire)
As a worst case (not including alternator charge current) of 245A at 12V (nominal operating voltage is of course higher), using 10ft of wire to the trunk there is a 1.251V (10.43%) drop in that 10' of 4 guage wire alone.
Using Watts=amps x volts 245A x 1.251V = 306.5
possible watts dissipated in that 10' of wireYou might want to consider resizing that cable. Granted the system does not work at 'fuse capacity' normally, but fuses are there to show potential load worst case. And I didn't include charging current, which will always be there to some extent. And there is no fuse in the car (or shown) for that current.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
05rx8mazda
RX-8 Parts For Sale/Wanted
18
11-28-2015 09:42 AM
Fickert
Series I Major Horsepower Upgrades
7
09-09-2015 01:21 PM