Attached are two photo's of Vacume Hose Connections. Can someone who knows where these hoses should be connected take a look and share any comments. I want to know if there is anything connected wrong, or if there is a better way to make these connections...

The first photo contains two three way splits. The first three way split connects A. to the Intake Manifod, and B. to the Greddy Type RS BOV. The second three way split connects C. to the Actuator on the turbo, and D. to the Pressure Sensor. Are these connected right?

The second photo is a green sensor that is wirid into the MAF Harness. The hose connected to this sensor is in a loop coming out and going back into the same sensor? Is this wrong?

Any input is appricated... my car runs like **** evan after using the map Benny sent me from Greddy for High Flow Cat + Turbo Kit.. which is also attached for anyone else wanting to take a look at it.... With this Map my car bogs down whenever it hits 4000K to 4500K RPM....

Jim

 

Sounds like the same problems I had once the R flash was installed.

 

I have my BOV and pressure sensor connected to the intake manifold where the stock intake connected (underneath the driver's side of the upper intake manifold). My actuator is alone and connected to one of the two pressure ports on the passenger's side of the engine.

What is the green thing connected to the MAF harness? Haven't seen that before.

Also, I feel like a broken record, you should have a AFR gage installed pronto. You risk blowing your engine if you don't. In my opinion, the bogging at 4500 RPM is a lean spike. That's what mine did before I tuned it out. I think it correspondes to the opening of the VDI. Its very consistent. The pressure drops a little bit and there was a lean spike at the exact same time.

MD

 

MD,

I'm following you on the drivers side connections with the Intake Manifold, Pressure Sensor, and BOV.

Take a photo if you can of your passanger side hookups... I am not sure where your talking about with the "pressure ports on the passenger's side..."

I figured out the green thing... it was what controlled the aux flap on the stock intake port in front of the car.... Its just looped and sitting there out of the way...I should probably just unplug it from the MAF Harness and put it in my growing box of spare stock parts....

Also, I noticed you have both the Profec e01 boost controller & Innovate LC-1 WB02 sensor. I purchased the Profec e-01 and the XD-1 A/F Guage w/ LC-1 kit, but have not installed either yet... Re: the e01... The solenoid valve COM and NO ports... I'd like to see where you mounted it first and how your hoses are connected there.

According to Benny at Greddy the install goes as follows:
Benny - "As for the E-01. The solenoid valve will install in line with the hose going from the intake manifold to the actuator. The com port goes to the actuator and the NO port goes to the intake manifold. Make sure to remove the plastic cap on the NC port also."

Benny - "There will be another sensor included with the E-01, you will need to install this sensor along with the pressure sensor that came with the turbo kit. There is a plastic three way "T" that comes with the E-01, place the brass orifice in one of the ports on the T and have that orifice point toward the intake manifold. The other two ports will go to the two pressure sensors for the emanage and E-01."

To many connections, I need some photo examples to reference....

I think your right on the "lean spike"...

Thanks for your input!

Jim

 

RX8FOREAL,

I'm still running the M flash....

Did you ever get it to run well?

Jim

 

Definitely stay on the M flash until Greddy comes up with a fix for the R. I'm using the Interceptor X now instead of the emanage.

Picture of the passenger side pressure ports below. It's better to use the intake plug by the throttle body.

Also, picture of the green connector unplugged on my car (unplugged the hose and rest of the flap in the bumper). Others have removed it altogether and it was also fine.

The E-01 does come with another pressure sensor BUT you can just buy a cable (pressure sensor harness) that connects from the e-01 to the emanage and both will get the boost reading. Or, do what Benny says and get another 3way fitting and run the vacuum line thru the firewall and connect up. I've got the cable lying around if you want it cheap (new $20, will sell for $15).

I also have the LC-1 and XD-1. Thread here. I have extra heatshields if you want one ($10).

 

Austin, I think you'll want to run the LC-1 output to the e-01. That will let you log the AFR and RPM together. This is what you will need to be able to tune. The gage is fancy, but having the e-01 log them is a better solution. Return that gage and use the e-01 display.

KEEP THE M FLASH!! Don't let them touch it. MazdaManiac actually diabled the port so they couldn't update the flash. I never take my 8 within spitin distance of that place, but if I did, I would do the same thing. It will totally hose-up your turbo setup.

Since you have the m, we can definitely get your car running smoothly. The key is to get your AFR logged. Get the LC-1 connected to the e-01 ASAP.

Also, get the cable that adrian talks about. That's a much cleaner solution than another Y in the tubing.

 

Jim
No-My turbo (Emanage) never ran right after the R flash. At 4500-5000 RPM the car dove into a super rich condition which was off my AEM A/F gauge. I have ordered the Interceptor X, which I believe to be the only fix (or another well rated piggy back) to the R flash. I will post once I receive it - hopefully week of January 16th.

 

I will for sure.... I've heard nothing but negative things about these updates after M.... How do you like the Interceptor X? I thought about driving up to see Scott, but I just don't want to spend the extra mula yet!

Thanks for the photo!!!! I learn something new about this car every day!... I would have never noticed those ports.... I will try to use the Intake Manifold if that is the better way to go.... Its nice to know there are other ports as options.... Are those ports good for anything specifically?

I've got the cable.... I was not planning on using the aditional pressure sensor...nice to have a spare though!

I might take you up on the heat shield.... I saw your thread last week on it... What do you think about using the XD-1/LC-1 as to the Narrow Band O2 as well.... they have info on wiring in place of the existing O2 sensor... I was thinking about doing this in stead of having to drill another hole and mount another bundge, just using the exisitng O2 port and wire it up....

JP

 

Any diagrams on wiring up the LC-1 to the e-01? Couldnt I slice in the guage too?

As far as the dealer touching my car.... not a chance... Read my Bad Dealer post in the Bad Dealer Thread (Fort Myers FL Mazda)... I would like to know what MazdaManiac did to the port.... where is it, and how can I block it off?

I will work on the LC-1.... I bought another High Flow Cat and I need to get the bundge drilled and mounted.... I was thinking about using the exisitng O2 sensor port and wiring up the LC-1 to the NBO2 wiring since it can emulate it.... there is a write up on the Innovative website about this (Click Here).... I don't think anyone here has done it yet...

Jim

 

Dealerships blow in my area also.

 

I run something similar to the R flash....

When I first installed the GReddy turbo kit, car ran like **** for me.. Stock GReddy maps were useless...

The good people on this forum have posted their maps... Mad Dog's and MM's map did wonders for my car althought i was running on the rich side (14-15afr)... I used their maps as a referance while i tweaked my own map...

U might fancy to try my map (attached below) at your own risk.... It is a work in progress and i have not finished tweaking it.. Still rich at +0.2 bar...

The other problems i have are being extremely rich under boost (ard -0.2 range) which i can do nothing to correct... I just drive ard it....

 

14-15? You mean lean?