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Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 2047934)
Expo says 3/8" thick - they look thicker .
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The plastic blocks that i used are 3/4" which makes the opening about 1/2 wide.
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for the front of the hood where there is a space that can easily be cut into, something like this might work for me:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E...QQcmdZViewItem problem is, I don't know if it would work on a flush hood, nor do I know if the curve of the hood would match this. |
an INTAKE???? at the base of the window???? NO WAY!
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You mean an outlet:rolleyes:
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i'd still love for one of these members to tape some yarn to the edge of the hood and show all of this increased air flow... 10+ degree change in temp is equivalent to 2 radiator fans running, so it should be pretty spectacular
...or not |
I almost always hit 200F coolant on the way home when I get off the highway, so over the next week I'll be a lot more sure of the effects of this mod and about how much it helps.
I also doubled up the spacer, so now I can see them when the hood is shut. |
I felt like I had good results with the hood propped in the rear and I know a couple other 8 drivers here in AZ are experimenting with this idea.
I've moved to a vented hood and have had good results so unfortunatly I've opted out. |
Originally Posted by stuartm
(Post 2048564)
You mean an outlet:rolleyes:
heat rises so any opening is a vent when you are standing still. |
I want in on this one.
Drag A simple definition of aerodynamics is the study of the flow of air around and through a vehicle, primarily if it is in motion. To understand this flow, you can visualize a car moving through the air. As we all know, it takes some energy to move the car through the air, and this energy is used to overcome a force called Drag. Drag, in vehicle aerodynamics, is comprised primarily of two forces. Frontal pressure is caused by the air attempting to flow around the front of the car. As millions of air molecules approach the front grill of the car, they begin to compress, and in doing so raise the air pressure in front of the car. At the same time, the air molecules travelling along the sides of the car are at atmospheric pressure, a lower pressure compared to the molecules at the front of the car. Just like an air tank, if the valve to the lower pressure atmosphere outside the tank is opened, the air molecules will naturally flow to the lower pressure area, eventually equalizing the pressure inside and outside the tank. The same rules apply to cars. The compressed molecules of air naturally seek a way out of the high pressure zone in front of the car, and they find it around the sides, top and bottom of the car. See the diagram below. Rear vacuum (a non-technical term, but very descriptive) is caused by the "hole" left in the air as the car passes through it. To visualize this, imagine a bus driving down a road. The blocky shape of the bus punches a big hole in the air, with the air rushing around the body, as mentioned above. At speeds above a crawl, the space directly behind the bus is "empty" or like a vacuum. This empty area is a result of the air molecules not being able to fill the hole as quickly as the bus can make it. The air molecules attempt to fill in to this area, but the bus is always one step ahead, and as a result, a continuous vacuum sucks in the opposite direction of the bus. This inability to fill the hole left by the bus is technically called Flow detachment. See the diagram below. Flow detachment applies only to the "rear vacuum" portion of the drag equation, and it is really about giving the air molecules time to follow the contours of a car's bodywork, and to fill the hole left by the vehicle, it's tires, it's suspension and protrusions (ie. mirrors, roll bars). If you have witnessed the Le Mans race cars, you will have seen how the tails of these cars tend to extend well back of the rear wheels, and narrow when viewed from the side or top. This extra bodywork allows the air molecules to converge back into the vaccum smoothly along the body into the hole left by the car's cockpit, and front area, instead of having to suddenly fill a large empty space. The reason keeping flow attachment is so important is that the force created by the vacuum far exceeds that created by frontal pressure, and this can be attributed to the Turbulence created by the detachment. Turbulence generally affects the "rear vacuum" portion of the drag equation, but if we look at a protrusion from the race car such as a mirror, we see a compounding effect. For instance, the air flow detaches from the flat side of the mirror, which of course faces toward the back of the car. The turbulence created by this detachment can then affect the air flow to parts of the car which lie behind the mirror. Intake ducts, for instance, function best when the air entering them flows smoothly. Therefore, the entire length of the car really needs to be optimized (within reason) to provide the least amount of turbulence at high speed. See diagram below (Light green indicates a vacuum-type area behind mirror): Lift (or Downforce) One term very often heard in race car circles is Downforce. Downforce is the same as the lift experienced by airplane wings, only it acts to press down, instead of lifting up. Every object travelling through air creates either a lifting or downforce situation. Race cars, of course use things like inverted wings to force the car down onto the track, increasing traction. The average street car however tends to create lift. This is because the car body shape itself generates a low pressure area above itself. How does a car generate this low pressure area? According to Bernoulli, the man who defined the basic rules of fluid dynamics, for a given volume of air, the higher the speed the air molecules are travelling, the lower the pressure becomes. Likewise, for a given volume of air, the lower the speed of the air molecules, the higher the pressure becomes. This of course only applies to air in motion across a still body, or to a vehicle in motion, moving through still air. When we discussed Frontal Pressure, above, we said that the air pressure was high as the air rammed into the front grill of the car. What is really happening is that the air slows down as it approaches the front of the car, and as a result more molecules are packed into a smaller space. Once the air Stagnates at the point in front of the car, it seeks a lower pressure area, such as the sides, top and bottom of the car. Now, as the air flows over the hood of the car, it's loses pressure, but when it reaches the windscreen, it again comes up against a barrier, and briefly reaches a higher pressure. The lower pressure area above the hood of the car creates a small lifting force that acts upon the area of the hood (Sort of like trying to suck the hood off the car). The higher pressure area in front of the windscreen creates a small (or not so small) downforce. This is akin to pressing down on the windshield. Where most road cars get into trouble is the fact that there is a large surface area on top of the car's roof. As the higher pressure air in front of the wind screen travels over the windscreen, it accellerates, causing the pressure to drop. This lower pressure literally lifts on the car's roof as the air passes over it. Worse still, once the air makes it's way to the rear window, the notch created by the window dropping down to the trunk leaves a vacuum, or low pressure space that the air is not able to fill properly. The flow is said to detach and the resulting lower pressure creates lift that then acts upon the surface area of the trunk. This can be seen in old 1950's racing sedans, where the driver would feel the car becoming "light" in the rear when travelling at high speeds. See the diagram below. Not to be forgotten, the underside of the car is also responsible for creating lift or downforce. If a car's front end is lower than the rear end, then the widening gap between the underside and the road creates a vacuum, or low pressure area, and therefore "suction" that equates to downforce. The lower front of the car effectively restricts the air flow under the car. See the diagram below. So, as you can see, the airflow over a car is filled with high and low pressure areas, the sum of which indicate that the car body either naturally creates lift or downforce. Drag Coefficient The shape of a car, as the aerodynamic theory above suggests, is largely responsible for how much drag the car has. Ideally, the car body should: Have a small grill, to minimize frontal pressure. Have minimal ground clearance below the grill, to minimize air flow under the car. Have a steeply raked windshield to avoid pressure build up in front. Have a "Fastback" style rear window and deck, to permit the air flow to stay attached. Have a converging "Tail" to keep the air flow attached. Have a slightly raked underside, to create low pressure under the car, in concert with the fact that the minimal ground clearance mentioned above allows even less air flow under the car. If it sounds like we've just described a sports car, you're right. In truth though, to be ideal, a car body would be shaped like a tear drop, as even the best sports cars experience some flow detachment. However, tear drop shapes are not condusive to the area where a car operates, and that is close to the ground. Airplanes don't have this limitation, and therefore teardrop shapes work. What all these "ideal" attributes stack up to is called the Drag coefficient (Cd). The best road cars today manage a Cd of about 0.28. Formula 1 cars, with their wings and open wheels (a massive drag component) manage a minimum of about 0.75. If we consider that a flat plate has a Cd of about 1.0, an F1 car really seems inefficient, but what an F1 car lacks in aerodynamic drag efficiency, it makes up for in downforce and horsepower. Frontal Area Drag coefficient, by itself is only useful in determining how "Slippery" a vehicle is. To understand the full picture, we need to take into account the frontal area of the vehicle. One of those new aerodynamic semi-trailer trucks may have a relatively low Cd, but when looked at directly from the front of the truck, you realize just how big the Frontal Area really is. It is by combining the Cd with the Frontal area that we arrive at the actual drag induced by the vehicle. Aerodynamic Devices Scoops Scoops, or positive pressure intakes, are useful when high volume air flow is desireable and almost every type of race car makes use of these devices. They work on the principle that the air flow compresses inside an "air box", when subjected to a constant flow of air. The air box has an opening that permits an adequate volume of air to enter, and the expanding air box itself slows the air flow to increase the pressure inside the box. See the diagram below: NACA Ducts NACA ducts are useful when air needs to be drawn into an area which isn't exposed to the direct air flow the scoop has access to. Quite often you will see NACA ducts along the sides of a car. The NACA duct takes advantage of the Boundary layer, a layer of slow moving air that "clings" to the bodywork of the car, especially where the bodywork flattens, or does not accellerate or decellerate the air flow. Areas like the roof and side body panels are good examples. The longer the roof or body panels, the thicker the layer becomes (a source of drag that grows as the layer thickens too). Anyway, the NACA duct scavenges this slower moving area by means of a specially shaped intake. The intake shape, shown below, drops in toward the inside of the bodywork, and this draws the slow moving air into the opening at the end of the NACA duct. Vorticies are also generated by the "walls" of the duct shape, aiding in the scavenging. The shape and depth change of the duct are critical for proper operation. Typical uses for NACA ducts include engine air intakes and cooling. Spoilers Spoilers are used primarily on sedan-type race cars. They act like barriers to air flow, in order to build up higher air pressure in front of the spoiler. This is useful, because as mentioned previously, a sedan car tends to become "Light" in the rear end as the low pressure area above the trunk lifts the rear end of the car. See the diagram below: Front air dams are also a form of spoiler, only their purpose is to restrict the air flow from going under the car. Wings Probably the most popular form of aerodynamic aid is the wing. Wings perform very efficiently, generating lots of downforce for a small penalty in drag. Spoiler are not nearly as efficient, but because of their practicality and simplicity, spoilers are used a lot on sedans. The wing works by differentiating pressure on the top and bottom surface of the wing. As mentioned previously, the higher the speed of a given volume of air, the lower the pressure of that air, and vice-versa. What a wing does is make the air passing under it travel a larger distance than the air passing over it (in race car applications). Because air molecules approaching the leading edge of the wing are forced to separate, some going over the top of the wing, and some going under the bottom, they are forced to travel differing distances in order to "Meet up" again at the trailing edge of the wing. This is part of Bernoulli's theory. What happens is that the lower pressure area under the wing allows the higher pressure area above the wing to "push" down on the wing, and hence the car it's mounted to. See the diagram below: Wings, by their design require that there be no obstruction between the bottom of the wing and the road surface, for them to be most effective. So mounting a wing above a trunk lid limits the effectiveness. As the car travels through the air, some of the airflow is directed around the nose and to the sides of the front fenders and wheelwells. If the sides of the nose are angled from a top view, the air will flow out and away from the wheelwells, creating a low-pressure area just outside the wheels. The air under the hood is mostly stationary, and some of that air rushes to the wheelwells to fill the void created by this suction. This creates a low-pressure area under the hood, and the pressure differential between the top and bottom creates the downforce needed to provide more grip in the front of the car. http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9...prostordl7.gif http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/5...mage004cv7.jpg Red area around windshield good IF you want to pull air away. http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3...wnforcefv7.gif http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/6...ynamicdzm4.jpg Because the air under the hood is at a lower atmospheric pressure than the air above it, a force much like the one on the airplane wing is created in reverse. We refer to this as downforce. By making changes to the shape of the front nose, fenders, and wheelwells, we can greatly increase the amount of low pressure and the overall downforce effect. http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5...ynamicdnk1.jpg http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/7...ynamicdwr9.jpg The ideal nose for creating downforce in a stock car would be narrow at the front with flat sides that are angled out beyond the tires. The radiator box intake would be wide and low to prevent the air entering under the nose from mixing with the low-pressure air under the hood. The nose on our LMS car has all of those features. All has been tested under CFD. IMO;Perfect. So our car (RX-8) has a good slant of a Windshield unlike that of a old car or plane http://img490.imageshack.us/img490/135/fig2sbo5.gif This makes me want to go into Windshield Wipers but I'll hold off. http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/2619/s3i2lgsp6.gif http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5462/siderx8ir4.png |
as it was explained to me previously, the laws and principles of fluid dynamics do not exist on the rx8
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Why do you guys continue to fight this from a theoretical standpoint?
Who cares? The actual data (which is legion) says otherwise, so put your theoretical motivation into explaining why it works rather than why it shouldn't. |
Yup. I know it works. My temps have dropped big time. For the ones that are uncertain about, try it! It only takes $3. and 5min!
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049156)
Why do you guys continue to fight this from a theoretical standpoint?
Who cares? The actual data (which is legion) says otherwise, so put your theoretical motivation into explaining why it works rather than why it shouldn't. For the record I'd like it noted that I never said it doesn't work. It just doesn't work for the reason you think it works. |
Originally Posted by mac11
(Post 2049188)
For the record I'd like it noted that I never said it doesn't work. It just doesn't work for the reason you think it works.
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049192)
Well, then, enlighten us and our friend pr0ber.
all the info is already in this thread. You can chose to believe it....or not.....it matters not to me but for those that come into this thread later on and want to actually know what really is happening, the information is there. |
BTW - for you guys insisting that there is a high pressure area at the cowl, do you believe that the differential created by Bernoulli is greater than that created by tangential impact?
The high pressure area at speed at the grille will always be higher than the venturi. The differential creates flow. Mac11 - go back and read your posts serially. You do little to convince anyone of anything since your opinion on the matter is inconsistent. Pr0ber is, at least, consistently wrong. |
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049236)
BTW - for you guys insisting that there is a high pressure area at the cowl, do you believe that the differential created by Bernoulli is greater than that created by tangential impact?
The high pressure area at speed at the grille will always be higher than the venturi. https://img504.imageshack.us/img504/...mage004cv7.jpg |
And? Are you saying that a 20% pressure deficiency will cause a reversion?
It could have 99% of the pressure of the grille, you would still have air going out, not in. Ya'll crack me up. |
Oh - those are air velocities, BTW. Not pressure differentials so that diagram is meaningless in context.
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The velocity graph relates to the streamlines and the pressure coefficient graph relates to the color of the car body. That's the relevant part in this discussion.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_coefficient\ It's still less than the pressure coefficient at the radiator front which we are assuming is equal to the underhood pressure coefficient which would make air flow out of the hood at the intersection of the windshield just like it does in reality.:) |
Originally Posted by shaunv74
(Post 2049331)
The velocity graph relates to the streamlines and the pressure coefficient graph relates to the color of the car body. That's the relevant part in this discussion.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_coefficient\ It's still less than the pressure coefficient at the radiator front which we are assuming is equal to the underhood pressure coefficient which would make air flow out of the hood at the intersection of the windshield just like it does in reality.:) |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049297)
And? Are you saying that a 20% pressure deficiency will cause a reversion?
It could have 99% of the pressure of the grille, you would still have air going out, not in. Ya'll crack me up.
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049297)
Oh - those are air velocities, BTW. Not pressure differentials so that diagram is meaningless in context. :uhh: |
Man, if I were an engineer at Mazda and was reading this debate I think I'd be drinking a beer and having a good laugh.
Being that I'm neither an engineer nor do I work for Mazda, I guess I'll just have a beer and watch the fireworks. Only thing I'll add, is that from what I've personally seen is that once at speed, especially faster and faster, that streamers attached to the hood (right at the windshield) will in fact be sucked down into the engine bay. They are not blown out, and don't go up the windshield as I anticipated. So could propping the hood as has been done work? I guess if it was allowing a larger volume to get sucked down into the engine bay. |
While it is a big impedance to airflow my thinking is that it's not the bottleneck in the flow through the engine compartment which is the cause of the cooling problems. Otherwise the Koyo radiators would show bigger improvements over the stock radiator. The problem is the flow through the radiator and consequently the pressure at the front of the radiator is being dictated by how well the air is being evacuated from the engine bay. The total flow area into the engine bay is greater than the flow area out of the engine bay causing the higher pressure under the hood and making the Cp under the hood very close to the front of the grill and higher than the base of the windshield.
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Originally Posted by Red Devil
(Post 2049348)
Only thing I'll add, is that from what I've personally seen is that once at speed, especially faster and faster, that streamers attached to the hood (right at the windshield) will in fact be sucked down into the engine bay. They are not blown out, and don't go up the windshield as I anticipated.
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MAc11 and Rotor (or prober if you will)
Last I remember when I started this tread its purpose was to find a simpler way to get the car cooled off, and to reduce under hood temps. Well I actually knew what needs to be done, the question remained HOW ,as I wanted to keep the OEM hood unmodified? Thanks to the man who you just called an idiot, and a fool, that solution was discovered quickly and painlessly. By now numerous folks had implemented this mod and reported positive results. I don't remember in any of my original posts seeking to improve the air dynamics of the car. But hey, this thread has proven to be loads of fun thanks to you two. Especially I love how you both start insulting people when you are cornered and have nothing else to say. And please don't try telling us here that you in fact did know what that diagram represented. And if color does represent the pressure, then look carefully at the color right at the grill or (inside of it) and compare it with the color at the cowl. With that said, I'll wait until Jeff posts his reply, which I am sure will be embarrassing enough for both of you to leave this forum for another few days, and will make it yet again a great entertainment for the rest of us. :) |
Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 2049397)
Interesting. The propped up area of the hood on my car is quite warm. And the only way for it to get warm is if air is escaping there... I have a heat sensor, and I'll check the temp when I get home.
I'd suggest taping some thin streamers along the windshield/hood and see where the air is going in person. |
Originally Posted by rotorocks
(Post 2049403)
MAc11 and Rotor (or prober if you will)
Last I remember when I started this tread its purpose was to find a simpler way to get the car cooled off, and to reduce under hood temps. Well I actually knew what needs to be done, the question remained HOW ,as I wanted to keep the OEM hood unmodified? Thanks to the man who you just called an idiot, and a fool, that solution was discovered quickly and painlessly. By now numerous folks had implemented this mod and reported positive results. I don't remember in any of my original posts seeking to improve the air dynamics of the car. But hey, this thread has proven to be loads of fun thanks to you two. Especially I love how you both start insulting people when you are cornered and have nothing else to say. And please don't try telling us here that you in fact did know what that diagram represented. And if color does represent the pressure, then look carefully at the color right at the grill or (inside of it) and compare it with the color at the cowl. With that said, I'll wait until Jeff posts his reply, which I am sure will be embarrassing enough for both of you to leave this forum for another few days, and will make it yet again a great entertainment for the rest of us. :) 2) that is a surface graph. There is nothing about under hood (or post radiator) airflow or pressure so I'm not sure where you get "inside the grill" color. Nor car you make any assumption as to what the under hood pressure is to compare it to the cowl pressure to say which way air is moving to/from the cowl area. 3) Thanks for showing that you need to quit acting like you know what you are talking about by admitting you are riding MM's coat tails. |
I don't pretend. I either know, or I don't. And I have no trouble admitting one or the other.
And yes I do have a great degree of respect for MM, and tent to stand by him in cases where my opinion matches his. Also he is funny as hell, when making fun of you and the stubborn likes of you. Oh and as far as at or inside the grill (I'll let myself be a little rude, just for the fun of it)... Look closer dumb ass. http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/5...mage004cv7.jpg |
Originally Posted by rotorocks
(Post 2049428)
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Originally Posted by rotorocks
(Post 2049403)
With that said, I'll wait until Jeff posts his reply, which I am sure will be embarrassing enough for both of you to leave this forum for another few days, and will make it yet again a great entertainment for the rest of us.
:) I'm used to being called an idiot. That is what happens when you are willing to tape your balls to the cowl and see what happens. I like angry/frustrated people - they give my day perspective. That's why I thank my lucky stars for folks like TeamRX8! When Mac11 and pr0bed reach that kind of fever pitch I'll get back to you. |
As per
Originally Posted by shaunv74
(Post 2049331)
The velocity graph relates to the streamlines and the pressure coefficient graph relates to the color of the car body.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_coefficient\
Originally Posted by mac11
(Post 2049446)
The red area you are referring to is still only pre-radiator and shows nothing of under hood pressure or airflow. try again.
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Originally Posted by rotorocks
(Post 2049482)
As per
But you can keep on trying... :) |
Originally Posted by mac11
(Post 2049485)
thank you for illustrating that you have no data from post radiator - under the hood.
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Originally Posted by rotorocks
(Post 2049491)
Data that I was interested is the temp readings of the coolant, not the underhood pressure. And there is plenty of reports on that. :rolleyes:
As for this line of discussion, please find me where I said that this does not work and we can end this. |
Guys - who cares? Really?
If you want to have a discussion on fluid dynamics, then do it with relevant data (from the target vehicle) and proper math, not "feely" stuff. Otherwise, the empirical data stands alone. |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049499)
\
the empirical data stands alone. |
Originally Posted by mac11
(Post 2049502)
I concur.
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Originally Posted by rotorocks
(Post 2049428)
Oh and as far as at or inside the grill (I'll let myself be a little rude, just for the fun of it)...
Look closer dumb ass. http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/5...mage004cv7.jpg |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049499)
Guys - who cares? Really?
If you want to have a discussion on fluid dynamics, then do it with relevant data (from the target vehicle) and proper math, not "feely" stuff. Otherwise, the empirical data stands alone. |
it was hotter on the ride home today. And even through I was boosting around traffic, the coolant was still in the 180-190 F range. I was only able to get it to go to 200 F by driving in 3rd at 5000-6000 rpm for a while.
Also, by the time I parked the car, the hood vented area read 103 F. Not conclusive though, since there was about 8 minutes of slow driving as I cooled down the car. |
Originally Posted by r0tor
(Post 2049537)
So tell me if air goes IN and not OUT of the hood, how is that improving the radiator efficiency as you had stated earlier? Why is it now suddenly your avoiding the whole subject on how this modification works or doesn't work.
If you create a greater pressure differential between the front (grille) side of the rad and the back (engine) side, the flow will be higher and so will the heat rejection. If you create an additional path for air to remove itself from the engine compartment, it will flow from an area of higher pressure to an area of (relatively) lower pressure. As I pointed out, even if the venturi effect across the cowl raises the pressure there at the cowl, it will still be net lower pressure then that of the grille. Flow will occur because there is a pressure differential. Air goes OUT of the hood. There is a pressure differential. Air goes OUT of the hood. There is a pressure differential. Air goes OUT of the hood. There is a pressure differential. Now, how would you like me to restate that the next time you claim I am being unclear? |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049920)
N
Air goes OUT of the hood. There is a pressure differential. Air goes OUT of the hood. There is a pressure differential. Air goes OUT of the hood. There is a pressure differential. Now, how would you like me to restate that the next time you claim I am being unclear?
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049156)
Why do you continue to fight this from a theoretical standpoint?
The actual data says otherwise.
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049499)
If you want to have a discussion on fluid dynamics, then do it with relevant data (from the target vehicle)
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049499)
the empirical data stands alone.
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no matter what you guys do and say here, this thread will never be as awesome as the thread that argued if water cooled better than glycol.
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Originally Posted by mysql101
(Post 2049942)
no matter what you guys do and say here, this thread will never be as awesome as the thread that argued if water cooled better than glycol.
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Originally Posted by mac11
(Post 2049935)
How about with an actual test of airflow? Thermometers do not test airflow. And to quote someone whos statements you may take stock in:
The theory makes no difference whatsoever. Air leaves the engine bay at a greater rate with the strip gone. Who really cares how or why other than you two? |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2049978)
I'm hoping he'll see the light. You too.
The theory makes no difference whatsoever. Air leaves the engine bay at a greater rate with the strip gone. Who really cares how or why other than you two? I know what is going on with the airflow, I'm not at all concerned about the theory or the graphs of a volvo. I think its fun to see you say you don't care about the theory, yet that is all you have to base you conclusions on - theory and big words. |
Originally Posted by mac11
(Post 2049983)
That really doesn't sound like it matches with your typical attitude.
I know what is going on with the airflow, I'm not at all concerned about the theory or the graphs of a volvo. I think its fun to see you say you don't care about the theory, yet that is all you have to base you conclusions on - theory and big words. Obviously, you do not know what is going on with air flow any more than those that have experience with it. My typical "attitude" is the same, but after a while I lose my interested in stupid people with insipid arguments. Get a dictionary. |
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