For the past couple of days I've been through some real heavy, FL type of rain.
I mean the kind there you can barely see the car in front of you doing 20 MPH.
So I was observing the water as I was curious myself.

There is no issue of water getting in the engine compartment.
The hood edge hangs over the gutter a little. Unless you are going to intentionally pour water into there with a hose or something,
it just drops down into gutter at the base of the windshield.

If there is some moisture, that gets there, it'll evaporate quickly given the amount of hit produced by the running engine.

While in a stand still, water just don't get there.

Where did you buy the plastic blocks from? I went to home depot looking for spacers and they just got confused...

In the isle with the Screws & nails ( I think ) It was in the section with the plastic feet you put under furniture. I painted them Black by the way. They only look that bright when you take a flash photo.

I can see rain not being that big of an issue for this mod, but what about the CAR WASH?

Also, if you do the mod (the expo1 way), I would think thumb screws with the rubber bumpers would be best. So at least its easy to take of the rubber bumpers or put them back on.

It's not a problem on my 8. I use a pressure washer when I do it myself and/or take it to a local car wash once per week. Even when directing the pressure washer to that area, limited water gets in (a little driping down the firewall). I check it when I was at the car wash and there was no water in the engine compartment save water on body lip.

Water in your engine bay is meaningless, anyway.
I pressure wash my engine bay all the time.
If you live in a place that gets rain, check out how much goes up into the engine compartment.

if a quarter inch gap produces a 10 degree temp drop, i bet removing the hood would get your temps down to about room temperature... :lol2:

its so nice that we have an air cooled engine instead of a water cooled engine :rolleyes:

Well, not only is that technically true (water is just a transfer medium - air does all the cooling), but it is also true in that the Renesis does have more in common with VW and Porsche when it comes to oil/air as a cooling method.
Rotary engines are, as would be labeled by those other marques, oil-cooled.

BTW - removing the hood does work really well. I did that a few months back when I was shooting some paint.

long known that a true hood vent (up front like evo) is the most efficent cooling mod for the 8
OD

I decided to try the mod as its dirt cheap and I have a scanguage 2 to help with my opinion. I did it the expo1 way, but used thumb screws to hold down the rubber bumpers.

I noticed that my average temps. appear to go down from ~185 F (which is already good) to ~182 F. Including longers "dips" at 179 F. I also have the Mazsport cooling mod (which works very well)... It does appear to make a few degrees different, but I do acknowledge this was not a controlled test and is more observation.

My opinion is that this mod would be particularly effective in traffic in helping the engine stay cool. Hot air does flow out of the gap, when your car is not moving.

I think the other aspect of this debate would be what does this mod do for you at high speeds for extended periods of time.

It seems this part is also partially an aerodynamics question. But the FI guys appear to be reporting improvement in the duration they can stay in boost.

Overall, this is one of the quick and cheap mods that at least should not hurt anything and at best you are getting a slightly cooler running car.

This mod does not take away from say using Redline water wetter and more water in your coolant mix. You could go from 65% water and 35% coolant to 70%+ water and a mix of anti-freeze and Reline water wetter. That would help cool your engine too. The point is that the mod does not take anything away or stop you from doing other things to cool your engine. They all can work together.

which is within the error band of the ECT sensor



except permanently deform your hood, make you always have HVAC system on recirc, and risk on day being killed by exhaust fumes if you ever get an exhaust leak under the hood....

if you wish to ignore the facts of:

a) the porsche block, much like your lawnmower engine, was designed to be air cooled while the Renesis is not which has water cooling jackets in the block

and

b) the water system of our cars rejects 2/3 of the heat while the oil system rejects 1/3 of the heat due to the fact that water is 2x better then oil at removing heat, the water system physically flows more volume then the oil system, and the heat exchanger surface area for the water is about 4x bigger then the oil


then yea, the rotary engine is very similar to the air cooled porsche/VW engines

rot0r
Why do you continue to resist the fact that this works literally to the point where you make yourself look sort of stupid?

Take a big breath before you produce another one of your outbursts, and please note that I did not call you stupid, I said you make yourself look that way

It all just sounds ridiculous coming from someone who posted this:
Don't you think?

ECT sensors are usually 2% accurate... 2% of 200 degrees is 4 degrees... if you can't manage to get outside of the error band, you prove nothing

for the tein installation, the weather stripping is only removed at the very end of the hood which is not where the fresh air intake is and the hood is lifted by the hinges and not being buldged up by spacers... and the lifted area doesn't do shit for airflow

but go ahead and try to prove a point :beer05:

I don't have to prove a point. My point is proven by probably dozens of people who had done this by now, and reported improvements. You on the other hand are trying to swim your way up the waterfall.

I myself have driven with this for a month already, and my car does run cooler. And when I come out of boost it does recover much faster.
As for the recirculation - I recirculate the air 100% of the time by choice, not because I have to. The air is cooler that way if you haven't noticed.

You are going a bit too far with your busted header argument. Don't you think you'd smell it first before you suffocate? I'd probably hear it and feel it due to lost boost too. So lighten up. ;)


:beer05:

well, last time i checked your "proof" included an experiment where you had no idea of the status of either of the radiator fans, only "you know how your engine runs".... gee, do you think a radiator fan kicking in could result in a drop of temperature?!?!

you never even bothered to figure out where the air was going like others (including myself) did... but thats right, you don't need to prove anything works

Why should I? You are really running out of arguments here... :rolleyes:
Do you need a proof that UP is in fact UP or DOWN is DOWN? Sure you can argue that too, but the way I see it it is what it is. Moving on. Life is simpler that way.

The "error" band on the ECT would be relative, wouldn't it?
Or are you saying that it will just wander up and down 4°F willy-nilly?
I'm sure you are not saying the latter.
So, if it was off by 4°F at the onset of the experiment, it will still be off by 4°F at the end of the experiment, so the delta is still going to be legit.
If you do mean that it is off by 4°F randomly, why would the entire error band get used up in a 15°F span of a sensor that is designed to read temperatures from 120°F to almost 300°F relatively accurately?

I think you can safely discount that argument.

I'm not doubting that this works but can anyone give me a theory as to WHY it works ?
I'm just thinking about how heat is taken away from the engine and I'm pretty sure that very little heat exchange takes place by hot air flowing over the engine itself. The only logical explanation seems to be that more air flows through the radiator as a result of the mod - but how ?

We are simply giving the air that goes through the radiator more choices for an exit.
Its like putting on a more free-flowing exhaust system.

Yes, we relief the under-hood pressure, by letting the air out, so fresh air can come in. And the only place for it to come in through is the radiator.

Daamn MM, these two babes with glasses look fine.

yeh -something about the glasses does it . Can't quite put my finger on it ......

I'd definitely put my finger on it...... :rofl:

I'm not saying what I did with my finger.

You could also cut up your OEM hood and install a bit of fiberglass (so it doesn't look like ass):

http://www.grounddynamics.com/Merchant/UNISTDI.JPG

then some paint...