OK so here's the deal after installing the bhr/spec 2+ fly and clutch combo I have a problem. The 2 people who helped install the clutch for me are damn near pros but we still have a problem. Basically whats going on is the car will start fine with no funny noises or weird vibrations. But when sitting at idle during warm up the rpms were jumping from 500 to 1500. the rpms would drop to 500 then the car would give a shutter and almost die before it jumped to 1500 and would then slowly fall to 500 and jump again this was about a 10 sec long process during the warm up. after warm up the rpms settled at around 750. next is the clutch engagement. the pedal felt really light and when I started to engage the lights would dim and the rpms would fall a bit and stay there. after the rpms fell the light would return to normal and idle would stay. when realsing the clutch rpms would rise but no change in lights. with the clutch fully engaged I could not get the car into any gear you could hear it slightly grinding the syncros but still with a decent bit of force it still would not engage a gear. No cels, no nosies, ????? HELP!!!

Many thanks to charles R. Hill for over the top service and help thus far. btw i did get to give a few small revs to 4000 damn that fly will move!

 

HOLY FREAKING CRAP!!!! charles chime in if you think this has something to do with it. I just got a call from my father and he said a small bit of the trans harness was caught in the bell. He said it was squished right behind the oil fliter. he said it didn't look great but not to bad ither still same results and no cels or blown fuses?

 

That's where the O2 sensor harness is as well as the neutral switch etc for the tranny....you could easily have a short from that..you'd better check out the harness...

Most likely thing IMHO .....would be too much of a coincidence to be much else

 

but why would it not go into gear though? I am assuming the harness would have nothing to due with it be able to go into gear it might explain the surges in the rpms but not the mechanical gearing right?

 

I know this is asking a lot but could you take a look at your clutch disc and flywheel in a few miles and tell me wha it looks like? I'm not gonna go into it here but we had a little problem with our clutch/flywheel combo during a practice session at Lime Rock. Charles was there to see first hand and assured us it was an isolated incident. Charles is first rate and is always willing to help out where he can. I plan on ordering tis combo as soon as I hear more info on how they are performing on the street.

 

if it will not go into gear smoothly then maybe the clutch just needs adjusting? Or maybe it needs bleeding?
olddragger

 

1) You have crushed/cut/unplugged your neutral switch and possibly your WBO2S harness.
2) You may have put the clutch disk in backwards.

 

so if the neutral switch is cut/crushed can i put it in gear and try to hit the ignition once? If it's the neutral switch it should try to start without the clutch depressed right?

 

There really isn't too much that can be wrong with the clutch assembly...like Jeff said...you could have put the disc in backwards.....other than that there really is only poor flywheel resurface ( out of specs), or a poor bleed of the clutch hydraulics..or poor pedal adjustment .....or possibly wrong parts?? as a likely reason. If the disc fit on the input shaft..it's unlikely to be the wrong one...cause the splines aren't a common one on a Mazda.

I would fix the electrical first...and go from there..

 

You did put the releasebearing and fork in correctly right?

 

absolutly

If the harness is messed up would the back up lights work cause they do? If it is the harness where can i get a new one if repair is not an option? I would like to avoid the stealership.

 

the rpm jump / die is the neutral switch. fix the wires and that will go away..

if you cant get it in gear.. that is a different issue.

first thing i would do is adjust the clutch pedal.. you need a 10 and 12 mm wrench..

beers

 

just to let you guys know so far the customer service from charles is well above par.
I am waiting on better weather so i can crawl back under the car and remove the wires we pinched then I'll pull the clutch and see if it's in backwards just for shitz and giggles. Removing the trans and clutch was not near as difficult as I thought it would be. Thanks guys for the ideas but I'm sure the only possible problems is the harness and disk as the directions we got from charles were pretty damn simple.

 

ok here's the update. pulled the slave with a tie strap and tried to engage a gear still nothing. so that means the clutch pedal adj had nothing to do with it. then we pulled the clutch to see if the disk was in right and it was ofcourse. then we checked to see if the disk was binding on the trans but it sliped on and off like butter. the fly surface was clean and had not been touched but the pressure plate had deff marks from the disk? we were in the process of reparing the wiring and it started to pour rain so thats where we're at so any more ideas? my father who has built a ton of race cars said it's the strangest thing he's ever see but it looked to him as if the clutch was stuck to the pressure plate and will not release

 

we actually took the slave apart the first time. aaron wanted to look at the internals and make sure everything was in great working order

 

the disc is on correctly?

 

Why hasn't anyone said anything about a jamed pilot bearing??? putting it all back in now