When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ebay ppl sel them at near cost I worked for a performance
Company for a few years selling parts and they literally sell them at near cost and buy in bulk making very little on there sales but they sell so
Many at that cost it makes up for it
When shopping for a clutch years ago with a college student budget, everyone had said ebay clutches were **** because of things like the spring cages braking where the springs would fall out causing the clutch to become unbalanced or surface contact scarring leaving areas for slip. Weak rivets and other supposed flaws. However still bought an ebay clutch just got the stage 4 unsprung. Three of my cars have ebay stage 4 unsprung clutches with the oldest being my mk3 1j r154 supra at 6 years of use and abuse. Two were eclutchmasters one was an xtd kit, all kept with the oem flywheel.
There have been problems with Exedy Stage 1 clutches in RX-8s. The stock clutch clamps more torque than the Renesis could hope to produce. Therefore, there is no benefit to a stage 1 clutch for N/A applications.
If I were buying a clutch today, it would be an Exedy OE equivalent replacement, with an SKF release bearing.
We just put the Exedy OEM equivalent in our car and it feels and works great. The majority of us aren't upping power to the point of needing overly aggressive clutches. (Just reality) If you are drifting or boosted then higher stages could be a good idea.
^blu3dragon, it may have just felt stiffer as you put a new unit in vs your old worn out one. Didn't notice a massive difference in feel with our new unit.
We have great pricing on them for anyone looking for the Exedy kit
That was from 2 years ago and they haven’t been on this forum since over a year ago. If you really are interested it’s always wise to contact someone directly rather than make a public broadcast about it. Otherwise you can get one almost anywhere and google the best price shipped.
Yep. The part number is MZK1014. Google the best shipped price, which as of this moment, appears to be TH Motorsports.
Exedy supposedly upgraded the release bearing, as people were having problems with the one supplied. If I were spending the time or money to replace the clutch, I would spend ~$25 on a Koyo or SKF bearing to be sure.
Yep. The part number is MZK1014. Google the best shipped price, which as of this moment, appears to be TH Motorsports.
Exedy supposedly upgraded the release bearing, as people were having problems with the one supplied. If I were spending the time or money to replace the clutch, I would spend ~$25 on a Koyo or SKF bearing to be sure.
I went through the one in the Exedy oem kit in <12 months. Replaced with the "better" ACT RB110 which I ordered on it's own. That died in 12 months.
Have now got the mazda oem one installed... Will see how that holds up, but my original lasted fine.
One note on the one with the exedy kit. I had some air in my clutch line for a while, which could probably resulted in it dragging at times (air expanded when it got hot). This may have contributed to the premature failure. Have now taken extra care to bleed the lines and adjust the clutch pedal.
I'm also back to the oem pressure plate for the last bearing and this one. The exedy oem style was heavier than oem.
Can't explain the ACT failure. That was with no air in the clutch lines that I could tell, less than 3k street miles, but it did have a bunch of track time.
The OEM from Mazda is Exedy. Did you have the "Mazda Speed" Stage 1 HD clutch from Exedy? they found issues with that pressure plate and throughout bearing and discontinued it.
I went through the one in the Exedy oem kit in <12 months. Replaced with the "better" ACT RB110 which I ordered on it's own. That died in 12 months.
Have now got the mazda oem one installed... Will see how that holds up, but my original lasted fine.
One note on the one with the exedy kit. I had some air in my clutch line for a while, which could probably resulted in it dragging at times (air expanded when it got hot). This may have contributed to the premature failure. Have now taken extra care to bleed the lines and adjust the clutch pedal.
I'm also back to the oem pressure plate for the last bearing and this one. The exedy oem style was heavier than oem.
Can't explain the ACT failure. That was with no air in the clutch lines that I could tell, less than 3k street miles, but it did have a bunch of track time.
My original seemed to last much longer as well. The second Exedy t/o brg. from an Exedy (oem type kit) lasted maybe 25K. Ridiculous. First thing I notice (when clutching) is quiet squeals when the car is cold. Colder = louder. Fine when warmed up. Then, maybe 500-1000 miles it's squealing loudly cold OR hot. When it came apart on inspection, you could hardly turn it. Apparently all the lube gets spun out of there somehow, then the race gets beat to *hit. Hopefully this new Exedy brg. is one they "improved". I think I have about 1K miles on it so far. Is it really that hard to design/produce t/o bearings???
The OEM from Mazda is Exedy. Did you have the "Mazda Speed" Stage 1 HD clutch from Exedy? they found issues with that pressure plate and throughout bearing and discontinued it.
The one that failed for me was from this kit: "EXEDY MZK1002 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit", ordered in March 2015.
Pressure plate in that was also heavier then the oem one. Not sure if the clutch disc is the same or not (I'd have to check). The oem clutch disc is exedy though.
The oem clutch disc is Exedy N318. This is the same PN for s1 or s2.
The oem (s2) throwout bearing is SKF CBU543625J. S1 is a different PN.
I couldn't identify the oem pressure plate. It has B2 00 01 printed on the inside of the splines on one side, and then 7G 0S on the other side. This is also the same PN for s1 or s2.
Looking at the exedy catalog, they have 3 kits listed:
MZK1002 for 2003
MZK1007 for 2006-2008
MZK1014 for 2009-2012
The last one seems to co-incide with s2 model years. Not sure why there are 2 different ones listed for the earlier years.
I never had any issue OE or Exedy OE replacement which while I never had high mileage on them before just replacing them every several years just to be safe while racing on them, they did see literally hundreds of 7000 - 8000 rpm standing start launch clutch drops and merciless up down shifts in and out of first gear. They always looked great and not really worn or abused lke they were, including the TOB Seems hard to believe you guys just tootling around on the street had so many issues
Well I already mentioned I AX it. Gets those 30-50 foot wind out green flag starts slowly releasing the clutch...
Not sure it makes it to 9000 (can't hear the beep) but it mostly gets street time. Either way, the T/O brg. is so ridiculously sensitive to wear out. Even if they were trying to make this the weak link, they could not have done a better job!
Is there any comments about the LUK kit? Clutch on my 09 r3 is about shot and dealer is quoting 1100 tax in for clutch and labour. (Don’t have the space or I would just attempt it on my own) any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
I just replaced my s2 clutch with the exedy oem replacement kit. No problems with the install, and works well, but it is a little stiffer than stock. I might go with the actual mazda oem parts if I did it again.
Hi guys,
Noob here, I had to replace my flywheel and clutch but there was none available in my country. So I ordered a kit from ebay. My car is currently being in at a garage and they pulled out the OEM flywheel for replacement. They called me to inform me that it doesn't fit. It seems like theres something missing I guess.
I got the pressure plate, cluth disc, one big and one tiny bearing and the flywheel.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F38 0477025662
Did I receive the wrong flywheel or is it normal that it is thinner than the oem ?
Do I need extra parts?
+1, You need the counterweight that will go over the e-shaft and be tightened down with the 52mm nut. Then you bolt the flywheel to the counterweight. Clutch is then bolted to the flywheel...