interceptor-x question
#1
interceptor-x question
if you buy the interceptor-x, does it comed pretuned, so all you have to do is put it in the rx8 and you will notice the differnce, or will you get it, then you have to go get it tuned.. i live in canada, about an hour from toronto, i know of no-one who deals with aRx8s, so Finding a tuner may be hard, very hard, so i dont wanna waiste the money to get one if i cant find a tuner, unless it already comes with a map set out that all i have to do is exchange it..?
#4
yea don't go spending 1500 dollars on a pretuned unit unless you can afford to get it dyno/street tuned. Doesn't make sense to me, you're not trying to get your moneys worth just leaving it at pretuned settings.
#5
well right now my car is bone stock, i plan on getting a borla catback, and a Kand N Typhoon plus Sparkplugs/wires, so nothing that should need some major tuning... i just want more hp.. where can i buy one, and does anyone know where there may be a professional Rotary tuner near toronto or??? ....
#7
Originally Posted by Skiptomylue
well right now my car is bone stock, i plan on getting a borla catback, and a Kand N Typhoon plus Sparkplugs/wires, so nothing that should need some major tuning... i just want more hp.. where can i buy one, and does anyone know where there may be a professional Rotary tuner near toronto or??? ....
Juergen
#8
Originally Posted by rkostolni
For an NA application you can try to tune it yourself. As long as you have a good understanding of how the system works it would be pretty hard to break anything.
With the emanage/cz, you're still going through the car's ECU for the final say so. So if you "accidently" have your map run a 17 afr, the car can stop it before you destroy your engine.
With the int-x, your car no longer has full control. You can easily blow up your engine if you don't know what you're doing - even if you understand how the system works.
#9
There is a large margin for error with an NA car. As long as you're just adjusting A/F's and have half a brain, it is very unlikely you will damage anything. The car would run like **** before anything was damaged.
As I said, if you have half a brain and a good understanding of what you're doing, you wouldn't be running an AFR at 17 under WOT. The system should come tuned for an AFR around mid 13's under WOT. Even if you lean it out to 15 by accident (which is hard to do by accident, as it takes many clicks), you still shouldn't hurt anything.
That's completly not true. The ecu adapts over time, it takes a few runs before the ecu kick in the STFT and even longer for the LTFT. So if I hooked up a cz and pulled 20% fuel bringing my AFR to 17 under WOT, the ecu wouldn't do **** about it in time to stop me.
Read up a little bit more before you accuse people of being wrong.
With the emanage/cz, you're still going through the car's ECU for the final say so. So if you "accidently" have your map run a 17 afr, the car can stop it before you destroy your engine.
With the emanage/cz, you're still going through the car's ECU for the final say so. So if you "accidently" have your map run a 17 afr, the car can stop it before you destroy your engine.
Read up a little bit more before you accuse people of being wrong.
Last edited by rkostolni; 06-28-2006 at 02:05 PM.
#13
Learning how to tune a unit yourself is actually quite easy. There isn't much to harm as long as you are tuning a naturally aspirated engine. If you blow it up, you kept pushing it long after you shouldn't have and ignored all the signes that it was bad. Even then you'd have to be trying to hit high rpm's sustained under sever misfire and detonation. You may still do not harm. Don't try that with forced induction though! You guys would be amazed at what I've put a rotary through and still never had any problems. I've had severe preignition at full throttle at 5000 rpms with no problems. I've had the ceramic elements break off of 2 separate spark plugs and go through the engine with no apparent issues. You could tell when the engines were rebuilt that they'd been there though. I've even seen flood waters hydrolock a rotary engine and it still ran at full power after everything was drained! Rotaries are quite tolerant.
If you have a Scanalyser or Canscan, the wideband on the car is accurate enough to get a nice tune. If you start trying to run the car leaner than about 15.5:1 or so under cruise, you'll find that it just doesn't want to go. If you run it too rich, you'll find the same thing. For cruising try to go as lean as you can while still having it run good. You can feel if it is running good or not. Doesn't take sophisticated machinery to tell.
Don't try to get aggressive with timing. I wouldn't touch the timing settings it comes with. Play with leaning out fuel in some spots at first but that's it. Don't go too extreme and only make one change at a time. Fortunately you can have seveal different tunes saved so you can always go back and forth as a comparison. If you want to establish a tune from scratch, let me know and I'll help you set one up. Don't be scared to try tuning. It's good to know and not as hard as many people believe to learn.
I wish more people would create maps and post them. That way others could try them to compare differences. You never know what kind of ultimate map could turn out to be the result! Come on people. Post your maps!
If you have a Scanalyser or Canscan, the wideband on the car is accurate enough to get a nice tune. If you start trying to run the car leaner than about 15.5:1 or so under cruise, you'll find that it just doesn't want to go. If you run it too rich, you'll find the same thing. For cruising try to go as lean as you can while still having it run good. You can feel if it is running good or not. Doesn't take sophisticated machinery to tell.
Don't try to get aggressive with timing. I wouldn't touch the timing settings it comes with. Play with leaning out fuel in some spots at first but that's it. Don't go too extreme and only make one change at a time. Fortunately you can have seveal different tunes saved so you can always go back and forth as a comparison. If you want to establish a tune from scratch, let me know and I'll help you set one up. Don't be scared to try tuning. It's good to know and not as hard as many people believe to learn.
I wish more people would create maps and post them. That way others could try them to compare differences. You never know what kind of ultimate map could turn out to be the result! Come on people. Post your maps!
#14
Originally Posted by rotarygod
Learning how to tune a unit yourself is actually quite easy. There isn't much to harm as long as you are tuning a naturally aspirated engine. If you blow it up, you kept pushing it long after you shouldn't have and ignored all the signes that it was bad. Even then you'd have to be trying to hit high rpm's sustained under sever misfire and detonation. You may still do not harm. Don't try that with forced induction though! You guys would be amazed at what I've put a rotary through and still never had any problems. I've had severe preignition at full throttle at 5000 rpms with no problems. I've had the ceramic elements break off of 2 separate spark plugs and go through the engine with no apparent issues. You could tell when the engines were rebuilt that they'd been there though. I've even seen flood waters hydrolock a rotary engine and it still ran at full power after everything was drained! Rotaries are quite tolerant.
If you have a Scanalyser or Canscan, the wideband on the car is accurate enough to get a nice tune. If you start trying to run the car leaner than about 15.5:1 or so under cruise, you'll find that it just doesn't want to go. If you run it too rich, you'll find the same thing. For cruising try to go as lean as you can while still having it run good. You can feel if it is running good or not. Doesn't take sophisticated machinery to tell.
Don't try to get aggressive with timing. I wouldn't touch the timing settings it comes with. Play with leaning out fuel in some spots at first but that's it. Don't go too extreme and only make one change at a time. Fortunately you can have seveal different tunes saved so you can always go back and forth as a comparison. If you want to establish a tune from scratch, let me know and I'll help you set one up. Don't be scared to try tuning. It's good to know and not as hard as many people believe to learn.
I wish more people would create maps and post them. That way others could try them to compare differences. You never know what kind of ultimate map could turn out to be the result! Come on people. Post your maps!
If you have a Scanalyser or Canscan, the wideband on the car is accurate enough to get a nice tune. If you start trying to run the car leaner than about 15.5:1 or so under cruise, you'll find that it just doesn't want to go. If you run it too rich, you'll find the same thing. For cruising try to go as lean as you can while still having it run good. You can feel if it is running good or not. Doesn't take sophisticated machinery to tell.
Don't try to get aggressive with timing. I wouldn't touch the timing settings it comes with. Play with leaning out fuel in some spots at first but that's it. Don't go too extreme and only make one change at a time. Fortunately you can have seveal different tunes saved so you can always go back and forth as a comparison. If you want to establish a tune from scratch, let me know and I'll help you set one up. Don't be scared to try tuning. It's good to know and not as hard as many people believe to learn.
I wish more people would create maps and post them. That way others could try them to compare differences. You never know what kind of ultimate map could turn out to be the result! Come on people. Post your maps!
Wish me luck tomorrow.
#15
Originally Posted by IZoomZoomI
yea don't go spending 1500 dollars on a pretuned unit unless you can afford to get it dyno/street tuned. Doesn't make sense to me, you're not trying to get your moneys worth just leaving it at pretuned settings.
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