Yea i heard that before that the typhoon sucks HOT air instead of cold..i think im gonna make a self made someting that sucks only cold air..must be possible because i have a front bumper with a air hole in it.

and yea...i try get the maf sensor in warranty..but about my stock parts and going back for wannanty and all..my car is older than 3 years and i have to many miles..so i have no warranty anymore..but i go with the dyno result paper to mazda belgium.. maybe with some luck...a bit warranty.

 

Why didn't the dyno run go over ~7,500 rpm? (If I'm reading it correctly)

That is strange that the typhoon 2 gave you 14 hp! Especially since most of the gain is supposed to be above 7,500 rpm anyway. Maybe your ecu was used to having the K&N installed, and was not able to adjust back to the stock intake that quickly?

And, the worry of this intake pulling hot air can be helped by installing the RB duct w/ some tubing to extend to the filter element. I would imagine that a dyno run would not really simulate a real driving situation with this intake, even if you've got fans, so it may very well be pulling lots of hot air while sitting on the dyno.

 

I dont think heat would be much of a problem for the K&N on a dyno unless you made your runs with the hood closed and no fans.

Did they hook your car to a wideban O2 when they did the dyno run?

 

time to make some posts, been wandering around here for quite some time.


The dyno stops at 7500 rpm because he has the low power, 192 hp 5spd, which is limited to 7500 rpm.


In belgium you have 2 versions, highpower (232hp 6spd) and the low power (as stated above). No auto here

Btw hanzoboy, i saw your car at 100% Tuning in Gent i think

 

yea...it was my car...u saw this good. :p u have a 8 too?
greets.

 

I was in Belgium for a month 2 years ago and I was looking for 8's the whole time I was there but I couldn't find any

 

If you have the low power engine hanzoboy are you expecting to get 192 hp at the wheels? You won't. 192 is at the flywheel. You should expect to lose around 15% hp to drivetrain losses.

The 232hp engine makes about 190hp at the wheels. I understand that European dyno readings sometimes display crank hp but this is an estimate based on a calculation from your wheel hp measurement. If this is the case then you may have a problem but it's tough to know since any crank hp measurements are calculations. Do you have a baseline from when your engine was running properly to compare to?

 

14hp is not bad better than 2 or 3hp , i always had the typhoon2 + rb air duct and love it!

 

No i don't i didn't do it... so stoopid i know

 

So do you know what your baseline hp number should be if the car is running properly then?

Was the dyno sheet wheel hp or crank hp? Sorry I can't read German. Don't you speak French in Belgium?

 

I think Crank....its was not the rear wheel HP is its that what u mean. in belgium there's dutch & french language...

 

I would then look for some comparisons to other people with the same motor and see if they dyno'd the same numbers on the same dyno. I would expect you are getting the right numbers if it's rear wheel horse power but it sounds low if he is calculating crank HP. I'd find out how they are calculating that.

 

yeah, i got a VR 6spd. Just got it lowered yesterday with KW VAR 3. Even more fun when taking corners

 

I know in my case the shop was not running a fan during my dyno run. It proved to be quite a problem cause at the end of my 3rd pull the coolant system purged due to the excess pressure built up. While the K&N might not have been sucking too much hot air, I'm sure my heated throttle body did me in for a couple HP.

As it was noted, running the revi ram air duct might be a good solution. Since we know the air with the least resistance will flow into the intake, that might provide more cold air than what you would get normaly.

 

Today i went to the dealer and i changed me MAF sensor..now everething seems a bit better...next monday i will change my spark plugs for new ones..after that i will make a 2nd dyno run maybe the problem started after i changed my filter for the k&n..when u put the k&n typhoon u have to oil the filter..maybe when i drived the car some oil spashed against my maf sensor inside...or..because of my miles its possible too..after a while u have to change ur maf sens. but to be sure i will wait for my plugs and do a dyno run with the oem filter..and see what it tells...and after all i 'm gonna try again to put the K&n...

 

^It is important not to over oil your filter. I try to use just enough to evenly cover it (pretty easy with the red oil b/c you can see what you're doing), and always let it dry for a few hours, or overnight is what I do. I will even pat it dry to remove any excess oil before I reinstall.

You should invest in some MAF cleaner. Its cheap and is a lot better than replacing your sensor down the road.

 

I have a Typhoon 2 and was wondering.....does the RB duct connect to the air hole of the frame? Also did you use a cover for your intake to keep the hot air out?
I'm trying to get a cover for my intake to avoid heat..

 

Yes the RB duct connects to the hole in the frame.

 

^ Thanks Razz..

 

You will still have a gap between the hole in the frame and the opening to the air box. I bought a rubber plumbing connector and shoved it in there to channel the air directly from the duct to the typhoon filter.

 

Lol...i had the same idea....but i didn't do it because...someone told me i better NOT do that because if u suck air straight from outside into ur filter u will suck all the dust inside ur engine. of maybe u clean ur filter every 3 days or something like that...

 

uh, no. Just think about all the other intakes available. Revi with duct, Aem/Mazdaspeed...that would be in the same environment as mentioned above. Sure, you could argue that most all aftermarket intakes will ingest more 'dust' or contaminants, but that is generally what the filter is for, and the engine oil (suspends dirt within it). In this case there is too much open space in the inner fender for the air to disperse into w/o this makeshift connector, seems it would almost negate the purpose of having the ram air duct.

IMO one of the best things about the typhoon is that you can very easily inspect and clean the filter element. I clean mine about every 3-4k mi. Adding the duct will force more debris onto the filter but I don't think its really a concern. Its a trade off...cooler air/more debris-clean filter more.

 

^I was thinking of doing the same...rubber connector + RB duct.
After doing this, do you think I still need to cover the intake with some kind of
plastic or metal sheet to keep the heat out?