They use those plastic pieces to keep the noise to a minimum.

Yes Stock airbox is pretty heavy, if you compare them to K&N version 2 (cant speak for REVi box, I dont have it)

 

Danger here it is K&N V2 on video.
Plug your ears and brace your self!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cFWDJlRoAo


Meh... its not that loud unless your on the throttle pretty heavy. It does scream in the 7k area.

 

I dont need that video, maybe someone else.

You know I get this sound, LIVE, everyday :P

 

Yeah I know, it was more for the OP.

I love when I punch it on the expressway and the people around me, look over like WTF is that sound.
I should of added a fly by in that video.

 

I know EXACTLY how you feel buddy .... EXACTLY ...

 

So it sounds very close to stock, except louder?

 

if u go easy on it, yes

once it gets over 5K rpm ....

but I guess all aftermarket intake sound like stock, as long as u dont go wot.

 

I had this setup... with my own little addition of duct tape and left over VFAD pieces... On a long drive my engine kept on dieing, and I began too really freak out... My friend (who had his Frontier stacked too the top with moving items), decided too stop at a local gas station too make sure everything was secure, and I decided too check why my engine kept on dieing...

Long story short, duct tape won't hold too long inside our intakes.... Once I removed the left over VFAD pieces(and garbles off duct tape) though I could tell at highway speeds that my 8 with the setup that this forum discusses could breath much easier...

And I know this also might sound a little absurd but I always used too get *at best* 60 miles too a quarter tank, now that I removed the VFAD pieces (that I thought would help too direct the air), my 8 somehow got 70 miles without getting close too consuming a quarter tank...

I'm wondering now if fabricating a plastic piece too cover the intake would be a good idea. My engine died after driving on the highway for a while... I know it won't happen again because no duct tape is in the way. But still heat is an issue

 

I also figure this is the best setup for a stock NA. Alone the K&N ver. 2 promises some 9 hp, but with a ram duct at 40 miles it's alot different than dynoing when it's standing still.

Another issue I seem too be getting is that I normally try too stay in nuetral for a while and essentially coast in an attempt too save gas. I noticed that with this setup, coasting over 45-50 mph causes my engine too awkwardly sway from some 250 RPM too 850/900 RPM...

It makes me wonder if creating a separate throttle body (kinda what the VFAD did) would be a good idea in some situations... Any ideas? Or am I thread killer:?

 

1) rolling in neutral is something you can get a ticket for.
2) you (in most cases) burn more gas in neutral then when in gear.

 

I'm very frustrated, just finished typing a long reply with test specs etc. and it disappeared when i clicked on submit... Ahhh.

Well the short version is as follows.

I've had teh Mazdaspeed CAI on for about 2 weeks and HATE it. Loss of low end power and huge gain in noise at full throttle with NO noticeable gain in power.
So I used a G-Tech and experimented with 3 different setups. Here is what I found. (Car full fuel, no junk in the trunk, just me = 1500kg at the weighscale.)
Just FYI, Full fuel car only no passenger or driver = 1400kg (accurate to +/- 10kg).

Stock Intake = 184HP

Stock intake with drop in K&N = 190HP

Mazdaspeed CAI = 185HP; but slower throttle response + loss of low end power.

Did some research and found some AEM test documents that show the K&N flows at least 2 to 3.5 times more air (depending on the amount of air flowed) than most of the other filters available and it DOES NOT let more dirt through; thats a myth.

The calculated RENESIS maximum engine air flow at WOT @ 8000rpm is just under 400CFM. Most stock filters and even the AEM DRYFLOW (Madzaspeed filter) cannot flow that much air without a significant pressure drop.
According to the graphs its almost a 5" water pressure drop for the DRYFLOW and only a 2.5" water drop for the K&N, with "NO DUST LEAKAGE" detected.

So in my opinion If you want to keep the good low end response and get decent power gains throughout the rev range, if you are still under warranty, use the stock intake with a K&N drop in panel filter #33-2284 (rated to 441CFM with no noticeable pressure drop). It will flow as much as your engine will ever demand in an unboosted setup.

Out of warranty, the Raceing Beat REVi with the ram air attachment.
This keeps the tuned intake horn for smooth air delivery and uses a free flowing short ram design and still maintains a big box for that accumulator effect to help low end throttle response. Rated for a 10HP increase at 8000rpm.

Honestly though, for an extra 4HP, is $350plus really worth it ?
I'd say the stock setup and a K&N panel filter is a pretty good bang for your buck. Save that extra $300 towards a free flowing exhaust system. Thats the other half of maximising your engine's breathing efficiency.

Hope this info was useful.

 

I appreciate your efforts, but the g-tech is about as trust worthy as a stripper with a coke addiction. That is all.

 

Oh yeah.. I received the V.2 in the mail today, I got out of work at 9 and was going to wait to put it in but like most of you I just couldn't wait. I had already let it soak in the oil for about 5 hours while I was on break from work, so it was dried out fairly well for the install.

The install is fairly straight forward and all, took a little longer than I expected but GODDAMN i forgot how good this thing sounds. It's honestly the best of both worlds, you don't need to worry about droning or getting a lot of attention while driving normally... but once you punch it the thing just screams. In a very sexy- throaty way. I like it MUCH more than the AEM i ditched...

 

the big deal at over 60 mph. is intake temp.... if you can monitor it well you know.. after 100mph.. well.

beers

 

Now you know exactly how I feel ...

 

i'd like to know exactly what it is about the k&n v.2 w/ rb duct combo that causes such an erratic idle. i only started experiencing the idling issues and engine shut offs in traffic after installing the duct to my k&n. and btw, i don't have the mesh screen installed either, but all was good til i installed the duct. i used a piece of the vfad to seal the connection also... what gives? i think i'm gonna try sealing the whole thing w/ some plexi...
what do u guys think is going on???

 

I use the screan and have no problems. I made a pipe that connects the ram to the tray so all the air goes right into the filter area.

 

I think you missed my point. I know the G-Tech is not 100% accutrate, but the main point was no matter how good your intake piping is, if you have a restrictive filter you've just wasted a lot of $$$.
For the RENESIS motor, you need a filter tha can flow 400CFM with negligable pressure drop. So far the only 2 on teh market that can meet those specs are the APEXi filters and the K&N filters.
The Mazdaspeed CAI is not good because of the AEM filter they are using. Raceing beat uses a K&N filter, it just their box is better than the setup that K&N sells.

 

i just installed a metal mesh onto my k&n.
what are the chances of that thing getting sucked up into my tb? i couldn't find the rubber gasket that came w/ my k&n kit...

 

Better how? Makes less noise and hp for more money?

 

The K&N Version 2 is the only product that gives you maximum high-end. Thats why RB recommended it if thats what you want.

 

Does anyone know if the K&N V.2 intake is street legal in California? Will you have a problem with smog, or is it CARB exempt. The racing beat revi is only legal for off road racing vehicle so you have to change it for smog testing. This isnt a problem with the K&N right?

 

The K&N v2 is is CARB legal on the 2003, 2004, 2005, and 2006. Its NOT legal on a 2007 though.

 

is legal for off road racing only because RB didnt pay to get the CARB exempt for streets. is like couple thousand bucks, I think.

K&N Ver 2 like Qballz said, is ok from 04-06. not 07 *yet*