Looking for a cooler running RX-8?
08-22-2006 | 12:27 PM
#29
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From: Apollo Beach, FL
Originally Posted by Brettus
Is this mod only necessary in hotter climates ?
Never gets much over 30 deg C here & most days are below 25 deg C .
Also : i've never seen my temp guauge deviate from just right of centre - what happens with you guys in hot climates ?
Never gets much over 30 deg C here & most days are below 25 deg C .
Also : i've never seen my temp guauge deviate from just right of centre - what happens with you guys in hot climates ?
I've seen 225* (thats 107 for you) on an aftermarket gauge, and the stock one hadn't budged.
08-22-2006 | 01:16 PM
#30
⎝⏠⏝⏠⎠
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 8,625
Likes: 5
From: USA
Originally Posted by dgrx8
how long has this been available? i'm defenitely getting one of these... it is way too hot for these rotaries here in miami...
I'll receive mine tomorrow.
Capitalizing on the engine recall speculation. That's cool 
08-22-2006 | 01:58 PM
#34
Here is the desert, we regularly see surface temps that excede 200°F and ambient air temps in the 110°F range.
Even at light cruise on the highway, it is not unusual to see engine coolant temps as high as 230°F.
I know that I had watched my temp go from 207°F to 230°F with just a few seconds of boost.
I switched to a bigger radiator and used water wetter as well. Though this slowed the rate of increase and hastened the cooling afterward, peak temps were still high.
Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors.
That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather.
Even at light cruise on the highway, it is not unusual to see engine coolant temps as high as 230°F.
I know that I had watched my temp go from 207°F to 230°F with just a few seconds of boost.
I switched to a bigger radiator and used water wetter as well. Though this slowed the rate of increase and hastened the cooling afterward, peak temps were still high.
Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors.
That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather.
08-22-2006 | 02:35 PM
#35
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,086
Likes: 1
From: Misinformation Director - Evolv Chicago
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Here is the desert, we regularly see surface temps that excede 200°F and ambient air temps in the 110°F range.
Even at light cruise on the highway, it is not unusual to see engine coolant temps as high as 230°F.
I know that I had watched my temp go from 207°F to 230°F with just a few seconds of boost.
I switched to a bigger radiator and used water wetter as well. Though this slowed the rate of increase and hastened the cooling afterward, peak temps were still high.
Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors.
That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather.
Even at light cruise on the highway, it is not unusual to see engine coolant temps as high as 230°F.
I know that I had watched my temp go from 207°F to 230°F with just a few seconds of boost.
I switched to a bigger radiator and used water wetter as well. Though this slowed the rate of increase and hastened the cooling afterward, peak temps were still high.
Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors.
That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather.
08-22-2006 | 03:09 PM
#37
Goat rider
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
"We lowered the ON temperatures for the electric cooling fans to improve engine cooling and avoid water temperature spikes. #1 fan now turns on at 87 degrees C (stock - 97 C) and #2 fan turns on at 90 degrees C (stock - 101 C)"
Right off the R&B web site.
Right off the R&B web site.
08-22-2006 | 03:17 PM
#38
⎝⏠⏝⏠⎠
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 8,625
Likes: 5
From: USA
Originally Posted by HERO
the RB flash has this same thing programmed into it??? If so then there isnt a point in getting this if you have the RB flash correct?
Sam
Sam
08-22-2006 | 06:03 PM
#40
Summit racing has had one for a long time--universal type.
After talking to some race groups they all said that the impellar on the back of our water pump is one of the worst they had ever seen. Underdrive pulleys help a little with less cavitation but they modify the impellar also. Plus larger rads etc !!
If you have screens on the radiator and the oil coolers they also contribute to heating. Not a lot but some.
We shouldnt need fans at highway speed--but we do. Airflow needs to be better through this engine bay etc.
MM did you just do a toggle switch?
Yall do know we also have thermostats on the oil coolers?
AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST WHERE THE HECK CAN YOU GET A 180F thermostat
olddragger
After talking to some race groups they all said that the impellar on the back of our water pump is one of the worst they had ever seen. Underdrive pulleys help a little with less cavitation but they modify the impellar also. Plus larger rads etc !!
If you have screens on the radiator and the oil coolers they also contribute to heating. Not a lot but some.
We shouldnt need fans at highway speed--but we do. Airflow needs to be better through this engine bay etc.
MM did you just do a toggle switch?
Yall do know we also have thermostats on the oil coolers?
AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST WHERE THE HECK CAN YOU GET A 180F thermostat
olddragger
08-22-2006 | 07:48 PM
#43
Apexing at Oak Tree
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
From: The Blue, Educated State in the North
This sounds interesting for track applications. I would love this for my track days in the middle of July. However, here in Boston, we are alreayd getting to the point where we might only see 2-3 more days close to 90 degrees.
Now my real worry. Sometimes it gets so cold up here that it can take up to 20 minutes for the car to get to operating temp and STAY there. I think this has limited applications, but you folks down in FL and TX and in the desert, pick one up!
And Ajax, I spent 4 months in Texas right when I graduated from college. I have 1 vivid memory. I was riding home from a bar in Downtown Dallas @ 4am (sober friend was driving). I looked out the window @ one of those flashy bank signs that shows the temp. 97 degrees. I was like WTF!!! Its 4am!!!! 97 degrees!!!!
Now my real worry. Sometimes it gets so cold up here that it can take up to 20 minutes for the car to get to operating temp and STAY there. I think this has limited applications, but you folks down in FL and TX and in the desert, pick one up!
And Ajax, I spent 4 months in Texas right when I graduated from college. I have 1 vivid memory. I was riding home from a bar in Downtown Dallas @ 4am (sober friend was driving). I looked out the window @ one of those flashy bank signs that shows the temp. 97 degrees. I was like WTF!!! Its 4am!!!! 97 degrees!!!!
08-22-2006 | 10:26 PM
#45
Registered
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 939
Likes: 28
From: Port Royal, SC
How would this mod effect someone in South Carolina where the coldest day of the year we see at about 20 at the lowest. (only for 20 minutes at the most in the early early morning) Would it make the heating up process take much longer?
08-22-2006 | 10:32 PM
#46
Originally Posted by t-run/8
How would this mod effect someone in South Carolina where the coldest day of the year we see at about 20 at the lowest. (only for 20 minutes at the most in the early early morning) Would it make the heating up process take much longer?
beers
08-23-2006 | 12:29 AM
#48
Senor Carnegrande
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 871
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors.
That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather.
That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather.
08-23-2006 | 04:38 AM
#49
Double 8
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
i see 2 relays having 2 wires attached to them....are those normal relays that can easily be replace if the relay got blown? I mean are the wires easily detached and re-attached? Im asking in case we need to replace the relays.
Last edited by Zero_Rotary; 08-23-2006 at 12:29 PM.
08-23-2006 | 07:41 AM
#50
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Here is the desert, we regularly see surface temps that excede 200°F and ambient air temps in the 110°F range.
Even at light cruise on the highway, it is not unusual to see engine coolant temps as high as 230°F.
I know that I had watched my temp go from 207°F to 230°F with just a few seconds of boost.
I switched to a bigger radiator and used water wetter as well. Though this slowed the rate of increase and hastened the cooling afterward, peak temps were still high.
Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors.
That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather.
Even at light cruise on the highway, it is not unusual to see engine coolant temps as high as 230°F.
I know that I had watched my temp go from 207°F to 230°F with just a few seconds of boost.
I switched to a bigger radiator and used water wetter as well. Though this slowed the rate of increase and hastened the cooling afterward, peak temps were still high.
Then, I installed something that does what Scotts kit does and it made a huge difference. My running temps under the same sort of conditions can be as low as 190°F, though they typically stay around 204°F. Boosted runs still start to peak in the 230°F range and the big radiator does a lot to slow that down and bring the temps back in line, but the cruise temps are lower and that is where the damage is to these motors.
That said, doing it myself cost $1.75 and took less than 30 minutes. Plus, my version gives me direct control over the fans so that I can defeat the mod in cold weather.