olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Hey MM
I guess we will agree to disagree on the UD/lighter pulley. Thats one of the things that makes the world an interesting place.
ENough thread ighjack here--just one more thing--in response to the thermostat I will try to e mail Chris and ask about it.
Scott I have your product in my mind(it can be a dangerous place) and after the recall stuff is over I may be getting one--I like the plug and play. Now work on the coolers?
Olddragger

Keef

just ordered 1

i hope this'll be a good upgrade, been spending uber money on my 8 lately...

Detrich

what are the long term side effects? will this result in shorter useable life on the factory cooling fans? how much do those fans cost to replace if and when they break from excessive use?

mysql101

hmmm, lets think about that. Longer engine life vs longer plastic fan life.

Jax_RX8

I also have a cooling kit from Mazsport that I am going to install after my recall PCM flash is performed next week (new car with only 500 miles).

My question is - does anyone know if the new recall (August 06) flash changes any of the stock fan control settings (206 degrees F before activitation) that would eliminate the need for this modification?

Keef

Jax, if somebody answers your question with yes... Then I'm gonna be one pissed off consumer at Mazport for selling this only to know things will change...

Jax_RX8

I am not trying to be a pain for Mazsport as I think it is great they produced this product - as it appears to be a much needed mod for the hot burning rotary.

Even if Mazda updated the fan settings in the recall PCM update, this is likely still a good mod as it is unlikely Mazda updated the settings to be as agressively cool as Mazsport did due to concerns with keeping the car within emission specs.

I was just curious on if anyone knew if the fan control settings were part of the recall PCM update.

Keef

yay! just got it in the mail

score on for Fed hex!

only problem is that once it was installed the car did not start at all! And I completely followed directions... And that's why it didn't start, you forgot to say put the negative terminal thingy back on!

anyway, thanks for the 2 day shipping! One satisfied as f*** customer!

Keef

I actually am experiencing this right now... Why does the DSC light blink, and why does the "car swerving" icon stay on when I start the car? Is it because I removed the negative? Or what?

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

you have to reset the DSC system when you disconnect the battery... I can't remember the procedure exactly but it involves turing the wheel all the way to one side then the other - i'm sure you can find it on a search in here somewhere

... or start it up, turn it off, and start it up again to get rid of the light

expo1

From Page 5-22 of the manual. Funny you should ask, I just installed mine today and had to do this.

Keef

okay, I realized those problems, now later in the night with driving... But suddenly a problem arose! After driving a somewhat 30-40 minutes through some stop and go traffic, I finally arove at some friends house. After relaxing at my friends for an hour I decide to drive, him and I, around. He hops in and 10 minutes into the drive the (RED) airbag light goes off... what?!

RED airbag light? Is this in association with that coolant modification??? Anybody else experienced this? I'm not considering on taking that coolant ground away from that specific grounding wire spot, but what other way is their to test if the grounding wire is not getting a complete connection?

Could somebody seriously, and I mean sewiously guys, give me any idea on what is wrong?

MazsportScott

Double check that the factory ground cable and the new cooling fan mod. ground are attached and tight!

expo1

This has no effect on the air bags. When you removed the two OEM relays there where 4-6 others. It could be posible one of those was losened and they deal with the Air Bags? As for Air Bag lights in general I get them all the time because I remove my OEM seats for track days and sometimes I don't connect the plugs tight. Or you could just have something wrong with one of the many Air Bags in this car.

Keef

ya, I figured that it would be the ground cable... Tomorrow (more like later today) I think I'll drill a hole and try to mimic the way the factory ground is placed, lower down that arm design though...

Also I definately do notice the A/C being what feels like some 10 degrees colder, I live in Houston and the weather since I've had this mod has been 80-90 degrees (the best Houston gets right now). I can't wait to feel how cold it is once houston hits the high 90's... I dunno, compared to that other modification involving wrapping some insulation around your A/C metal tubing, this seems to involve alot more rationality and sense.

Keef

okay, so I scrapped all the metal off of that particular ground spot (this morning), turned on my 8 and I still have the same issue... I do not know if this matters, but I read over the directions again and realized that I've been putting this mod's ground down first, then the factory ground (reverse of what the directions say), so I've flipped it and am now following the directions... I now have my neg. off the battery (hopefully that'll do something)

is this problem related with this modification? I've secured the ground pretty well... I plan on taking a drive, if that airbag light goes off again I'm creating a seperate ground...

You said you tested it on Rx 8's, ever tested it on a Yellow one?

mysql101

I don't think the order that the ground cables are in will matter.

I suggest just removing the mod and restore your car to the way it was before to try to narrow down the cause of the problem. I don't think the cooling fan mod caused it though.

Keef

okay, problem fixed... I'm still learning about my 8 so thanks everybody for baring with me and not flaming... I tried the "key in ON position and press the brake 20 times (within 8 seconds) ECU reset" and amazingly enough the airbag light went off... I'm thinkin that the wires behind the passenger seat got messed with when my friends sat inside...

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

The 20 brake tap only resets the position sensor for the eccentric shaft.

MPG > HP

Somewhat off topic, but due to the engine's critical tuning aspects, how important is doing this after a battery disconnect? I ask, because until recently getting an improved battery, I never did either the DSC nor position sensor resets, despite frequent dead battery episodes. All I ever did to "reset" the constant on DSC light was to turn the engine off and on, after starting. Everything seemed to work fine, afterwards. Usually, I get better mileage after a battery disconnect, at least until the ECU learns the long term map, again. So, doing both reset procedures is essential?

PUR NRG

After reconnecting the battery you need to turn the steering wheel full left then full right to recalibrate. Don't tap the brakes.

Jax_RX8

Installed mine today. It took about 45 minutes. Toughest part was cutting the notch in the fuse box (I used a drill with a medium bit and using the side of the bit cut a groove down about 1/2 inch) and routing the wiring. I needed to route my wiring behind the battery and airbox (used included wire ties to secure) and along the side of the fuse box (the wires were not long enough to run to the front of the engine bay and run across).

I also did the DSC reboot (clockwise to wheel lock first, then counterclockwise to wheel lock with ignition in on position) and this worked instantly.

Took it out for a spin and can tell a big difference in the activation (much sooner for the 192-195F versus stock 206F). Cutoff points after engine shutoff seem a little sooner due to less heat build up, but not much as I think it is cooling to a lower temp (185F) before shutting off. I also notice that both fans turn on and off simultaneously for more cooling power when they are on.

I don't have a way to measure actual temps, but I am from what I can tell, I am very pleased with this mod as it seems like it will help the engine generally run cooler.

turbine

I removed the rubber sealing from the back of hood, near wipers. It leaves a long gap accross the back end. Do not do the front one. Water will come right in at high speeds. It has enough room to vent. Not only that you can hear my Short Ram Intake big time. Sounds cool. With that much more sound, should indicate some ventelation?

swoope

iTrader: (5)

might read thread.. what you have posted is not related to the topic at all..

beers

turbine

True. My bad. Ever walked into the girls restroom and take a leak. While taking a leak, you realize that no urinals. Then females start coming in. That about sums it up.