nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Well, thx to Team and Chicken, they point my errors out, I hope Paul will not me

Today is the 3rd day, not much data for the new pump, but oil temp drop about 5-10 Celsius (average)

Dunno About Water temp, cuz I installed it the same time I was installing the pump.

the water temp spike up to almost 100 today (was sitting in traffic for 20 minutes or so), but as soon as the traffic cleared, the temp went back down to about 90-ish in maybe couple of minutes. oil temp stay about the 81 celsius the whole time

Note :

Before the water pump swap, my coolant mixture was about 70/30 (water/antifreeze) and Royal Purple's ICE coolant additive(1 whole bottle)

The old pump has 33K miles on it.

after the pump swap, I flush the whole system and now its installed with 50/50 with water wetter (1 whole bottle)


Im thinking of adding a little bit more water to the mixture, not sure if I want to do that, since winter can get pretty *cold* in NY.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Some pics

First one, Old Pump (left) and New Pump (Right)

Second pic, old pump outa the engine, engine bay look

Third pic, Water Temp sensor with Silicone hose installed between the engine to metal water jacket (upper hose)

Forth pic, Just took it like 30 mins ago, had 9K rpm run for maybe 5 Minutes, then 0.5 miles local traffic went home. Condition 72 outside temp, BP Ultimate full this morning, 10 oz idemitsu premix, 50/50 Prestone coolant with 1 bottle of water wetter.

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

With the stock pump. I normally see about 180 degree farenheit which is about 82 celsius. So what is the advantage?

Digital_Damage

That is a nice looking unit, wondering if I should do this also since I'm swaping the rad out.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Do it ! You're going to take your battery box, intake, and undertray out anyway !

Replace your hose with Silicone ones too ! Agency Power makes them but it comes with only 2, The Lower hose and the upper hose from water Jacket to Radiator. Missing the Engine to water jacket hose, dont know why, but thats how it came.

I got another set of Radiator hose from Japan, cut the hose and put greddy adapter with Defi sensor.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

The advantage will show only if you do alot of 9K rpm driving.

The water temp sensor was not installed b4 the pump, so I dunno what the temp was like. but by looking at the oil temp gauge if I do constant 9K rpm driving the oil temp been up to 108 Celsius.

With the pump, I never seen it get past the 100 mark. mostly stay at around 90.

I will keep watching my gauges closely and report the results back.

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

I'm just asking because I bought one and will have it installed next monday with my s/c. I guess will tuning, if I don't see any difference, I'll just put the oem one back in.

mdw1000

I too noticed what nycgps noticed - in traffic my water temps seem to shoot up faster. But then they come down faster once I get going.

I have a half-baked theory on this. I was thinking that the water temp is going up more because the cooling system is actually working better. My thinking is that the coolant temp is higher because more of the heat is getting into the coolant than before. Before the better flowing water pump, the heat wasn't transferred to the coolant so your engine block, oil, rotors, etc were getting hotter with the lower coolant temp.

Of course, I have nothing to base this on other than being a Mazmart fanboy However, I could pick much worse people/companies to be an admirer of, so I don't feel too bad about that.

It could be that the Mazmart pump is slightly less efficient at lower rpms than OEM, causing the higher water temps.

I don't have an oil temp gauge (hoping to get one installed over the winter sometime), but you are the second person that I've seen say that their oil temps are lower. To me that is a good tradeoff - coolant temps a bit higher in stop and go traffic (but still within the normal range) and lower oil temps.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

oil temp gauge (and other gauges) aint that hard to install if you know where to route the wires (thx to CRH for the idea !)

Gotta love the pump tho !

staticlag

pretty much in accordance with what I reviewed.

if pitch and area are an indication of flow then the OEM is more efficient at low rpms.

however I am waiting for a day +90 degrees to really test the pump days have been too cool 70s-80s to really try and overwhelm the pump.

So far my readings are making me want to remove my underdrive because of poor efficiency at low RPMs.

track day this weekend

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

static, go track your car now god damn it !

The closest track to me is like 3 hour drive -_- I dont think I can go ... and NYC is getting *cold*, average is like 70 ish. I guess there is no way for me to *truly* test this pump until next summer comes ... *sigh*

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

(subscribing)

vIce^gRip

It would appear to me that the most common reason for the spikes in temps while not moving or moving slowly is due to a simple physical reaction of "Lack of air flow over the radiator fins". Air flow is what dissipates the heat from the water as it travels through the radiator. As jskup1 stated, I to have a water Temp meter... my stock Pump, both a dieing one and a new one, pretty much hang around 180F-190F under normal speeds... even when romping or in the higher RPM zone and in 90+F ambient temps. In city, however; sitting at a light or just sitting still Ive seen mine rise as high as about 210-215F. I cannot honestly say that I have not noticed my water temp go any higher than that even on near 100F days. Not to say it has not. I just never noticed if it did. Factory cooling fans, I believe, are set to kick on at 220F, so it stands to reason that I have gotten that hot before.
Anyway... as soon as I get under way... even if redlining 1-2 gear within 30 seconds it seams as if it is right back down to 180-190 hang zone again.
Check it out while you are driving and see if you notice the same thing.
I am not knocking the MazMart pump, I am just observing that the numbers reported don't seem a bit different form the stock pump. I saw a dyno that claimed 6 HP, but now I am wondering how many squeezes were pulled on the base and then after the install? I think 2-3 pulls before and then 2-3 pulls after may give a more accurate picture. Maybe it was mentioned and I should go re-read that thread, but I am sure I will set right if I am wrong by someone with more knowledge than me.

Dohhh... I guess I should also mention that I do have the Mazsport Cooling Fan Mod installed that triggers the fans to kick on at around 190F and try to keep the water near 180F.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Another picture coming up.

You can read all the *conditions* in the picture.

Just took this 30 minutes ago (again), after a 70 mph cruise on the highway for maybe 15-20 mins, 0.5 miles of street speed (35-40) to go home.

No 9K rpm this time. the rpm was kept at around 3 to 4K rpm.

After the pump swap, the average oil temp did drop. by as much as 10 Celsius, cuz before the pump swap, my oil temp usually sits around the 90s. Hardly see it go lower than 85. Now? see pic.

I will report back every day or another for results.

*and I notice a small oil leak around the oil filter area, probably the Greddy oil filter adapter not very secure. Gonna fix it maybe wednesday*

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Today, Afternoon about 12:00pm outside temp 83f, humidity around 60%. I was stuck in traffic for maybe 10-15 minutes, usual route to downtown manhattan, when I was about to go fast*er*, 3rd gear going around 50mph, I start seeing my water temp gauge going up, past the 100 Celsius mark and going to around 105, I was like hmm ? then I slow it back down a bit the water quickly drop back to about 98 Celsius then maybe another minute it went to 92. car was loaded with me and my dad.

about 2 hours ago, drove home, car was loaded with me and my dad. my water temp spike up to around 98c for maybe 20 seconds,I was at stop and go traffic for maybe 10 minutes, then I cruise around maybe 60 or so. Water temp stay around 90 the whole time. outside temp was about 76f

*Note* :

Oh by the way, A/C was on today, the whole time.

I just changed my Radiator cap to ARC 1.3 bar today. Maybe higher pressure makes the water go faster and takes more heat away ? thats why Im seeing higher than before water temp ?

Someone ?

The oil temp stayed around the same temp as before the Radiator cap change, its just that after the cap change my water temp seems to go up and down much *faster* than before. Is that a good sign or bad sign ?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

this afternoon b4, about the same condition as yesterday except that its cooler, about 75 outside temp. water temp still spike up to almost 100 celsius

I just changed my Cap back to stock, will report the temp back here tonight.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Yall need to mention if your fans come on at oem settings ot if you have fan control? Fans make a big difference even while moving.
There are going to be thermostatic changes but if you saw a spike of that wide of a variance--something is going on---heck the only time i have EVER had a coolant temp of approx 220F was on the track and that was the highest i had seen on a 105 degree day. Dont run the engine if it gets to 230F ----not good.
olddragger

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I have the RB flash, so fan should kick on around 87 Celsius (188.6 Fahrenheit). I heard the fan turn on at stop light so I guess it works.

after 1 day of the new cap use(ARC 1.3 bar), in the afternoon I change it back to stock cap(0.9 bar), the temp *strangely* got lower. around the 90s.(Celsius)

well it was a cool night. Outside 65f, Water temp range from 80 to 100 (constant 9K rpm driving) , then drops back down to 90 ish and stays there.

I have a small oil leak around the oil filter adapter. could that be the cause? (sounds strange ...) Im going to fix that tomorrow morning ...

maybe I should do another flush and another bottle of water wetter ? -_-

or maybe its dry outside I dont know.

Im lost

staticlag

just got back from the track.

Max temps were 235 degrees water in 82 degree ambient, thats about stock performance. I didn't get a chance to really wail on it because of shortened run groups of 20 minutes each.

So far my impression is that if you track your car get this and the upgraded radiator at the same time.

And if you dont track your car this mod isn't worth the money and you should buy the radiator first and then if you have money left over get the pump.

People are making this to the end all be all of cooling modifications, but its just a pump.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

235F! Damn dude I have never been that high--even with the stock pump on a106 f degree day. I have been told my really good sources to cool her off right then if coolant gets to 230.
Have you done the usual other stuff? You know the 70/30 blend etc?
Reports from FI guys that the kyrso radiators are making the cars run hotter.
I still stand by this pump--working well for me.
olddragger

staticlag

i've been in the 240s with the stock pump on a 92 degree day. 45 minute run groups, about 30 min I had to take some cool down laps.

yeah, im running about 60/40.

Its a good pump I noticed that my temps were consistent, both oil and water. High oil temps are in indication that your water cooling system is insufficient. Both were pretty even, meaning that neither system was being overwhelmed. So thats good.

But I would still recommend a radiator upgrade before this for the guys that don't track their cars. Sitting in traffic or not going above 6K on the street/highway this pump isn't going to shine as much as more surface area to dissipate heat. So this goes back to my recommendation, this pump isn't going to solve overheating problems without more surface area to push the water through, plan on getting the radiator at the same time for maximum performance.

oh yes it was a good day, i put an m3 and a wrx in the grass trying to follow me into turns. i'm so happy with my rx8. Now it just needs 100 more hp and it will be a track star.

Mazurfer

Would've damn near paid to see that!
Good Job!

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I already have Koyo Rad for almost 1/2 year.

Hmm ... is Koyo's design bad or something ? worst than stock ?! if yes then I might just switch to other brand. but I read Option Magazine before about radiators, they said that after a while radiators can get really dirty of it traps alot of dirt and small rocks to it and decrease its efficiency. Maybe I should get some Engine Cleaner and spray the crap out of the rad ?

The stupid Greddy Adapter still leaks oil, I reinstall it today 100% Im sure I got it right, but it still freaking leaks. I even changed the oil filter. nothing, still leaks. I might have to look into RB's oil adapter. Is there anybody out there have a leaking problem with RB's adapter ?

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

good job nycgps! The right company is important. I can just imagine a few people called up Scott at Mazsport asking about his new water pump.

I'm seriously considering this pump, too, but I have to get my Koyo in first and see how that goes.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I woke up 7:30 in the morning today JUSt to flush my Radiator again.

This time, I did it like this

Drain the coolant from Radiator (left the engine side alone)
Put like a gallon of Distilled water into it and LET it sit for 15 minutes.
Drain the water
Close it
Add a bottle of Water Wetter
wait a while
Then add 50/50 coolant to the Max

Went out for a spin, Temp stay below 85 idle, and about 90 ish running highway cruising.

Oil temp was around 85 or lower most of the time, there was a time it spike up to 100, but came back down quicky after I stop the 9K rpm.

For the Koyo rad ... I dont know ... I will pressure wash with engine cleaner one day and see if it improves anything. Cuz Koyo radiator's fin are really small and dense, Im afraid that it might really trap alot of dirt, decreasing efficiency