I8U

iTrader: (1)

I checked the fuses, they all seem to be fine. When I turn the key I hear it clicking. Weird thing is when I turn the key the immobilizer light just flashes, I'm sure that's one of the main reasons. I have both the coil ground to the chassis and PCM ground to the negative side of the battery terminal, I also checked all my splices and they are good. I'm thinking I may have missed a ground under the UIM when I pulled it off to get the harness though. It was PITA to work on the harness under there, it's like a rats nest!


*edit*
Could it also be possible that if a ground wasn't connected properly the PCM would go crazy and dump it's program? The reason I ask is because I tried all my keys and the immobilizer light just keeps flashing...oh yeah and the normal things that are suppose to happen when you turn the key to ON are not happening, ie the fuel pump isn't charging and the air pump doesn't seem to be working.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

you have tried resetting everything i am sure. the coils are a 4 wire coil--right--did you ground them separately --that is to their own ground --not the pcm's ground-not the oem coils ground?
olddragger

I8U

iTrader: (1)

Yeah Denny, I have the two separated. I hope I didn't damage another wire while I was tearing the harness apart and fry the PCM. It definitely needs a software boot. All of my keys aren't working and the immobilizer light flashes when I try and turn it over.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Check your fuses again (the fuse box inside the engine compartment). Pull them one by one and check them individually with a tester. I had the same thing happened to me over a year ago and it turn out to be one of the fuses.

I8U

iTrader: (1)

^ Thanks man, I just visually looked at them...a multi meter would tell it for sure.

AJ's Shinka

Not trying to rain on your findings, but I get that on my stock coils, doing 70-80 on the highway. I drive to L.A a lot. Were your old coils going bad?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

hate probs like this--time to take the test light out and see what has power and what doesnt.
just went through kind of the same thing with my water meth system--finally found out that the ground wire on the pump was bad.
olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

there is a "pigtail " type ground under the uim that the oems coils ground too--what did you do with it---is that the one you now have going to the neg battery post?
the b/w wire is the power wire, the color wire is the trigger and the black wire is the ground on the oem.
on the ls2 coil there are 2 grounds one to the pcm and one to a regular type ground point. you did ground both of those correct? Just thinking of everything i can think off.
I blew an "engine" fuse once (under the hood fusebox) and had a problem like this---does all your dash lights come on?
if the engine ran for like 2 secs--was it smooth?--if it was a security thing it shouldnt have cranked at all--right?
olddragger

I8U

iTrader: (1)

^Thanks for the input Denny. The "pigtail" you are referring to it the one I have grounded to the battery terminal. I grounded both the PCM and coil ground to separate parts of the chassis.

As for starting, when I first turned the key to "ON" the air pump started blowing so, I turned it off. I tried it again and the air pump and fuel pump charged as normal, when I turned the key all the way I got maybe two rotations out of the engine and then nothing. All the dash lights work, when I turn the key to "ACC" everything seems to be working fine. Once I turn it all the way, all the dash come up and the immobilizer light flashes and all I get is one "click" sound from the engine bay.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Did you check the relays? And the ignition switch?

My car had a security system problem...the PCM decided it wanted to screw up and loose all the communication with the security module.....but if that was the problem it wouldn't crank at all...

Are you sure you have a good battery? And good connections for power?

I8U

iTrader: (1)

It only tried to crank once, but like it said it never really even did that. And now it won't do anything. As for the relays, I haven't put a multi meter to them to see. Battery is only about a year old and the power connections are solid.

dmak_el

iTrader: (1)

so does this mod cause the spark plugs to wear out faster?

I8U

iTrader: (1)

I don't see why it would.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

no actually they will last longer.
I8U ---the wire going to the pigtail does not have to be grounded---you should have only 2 grounds.
od

I8U

iTrader: (1)

Denny, on page 23 of the Pettit SC guide I have those 2 grounds shown in the pic going to separate ground locations...I also have the extra ground from the new coils on a separate location.


*edit*
I wasn't understanding the pigtail thing. You are referring to the pigtail ground coming off the power wire, right? I disconnected that just now and still got nothing.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

ok if i remember correctly now the oem black wire is the ground wire--all 4 coil grounding wires (black) run through the harness to a pigtail connector then one small wire exits that pigtail connector and goes to the actual ground point under the lim. that is the only coil ground present on the oem ignition system. the other 2 wires on the oem coil connector are the power and the trigger.
now you have your power and the trigger wires from the oem harness correct on the ls2 coils --right? The resistor and all of that is ok --correct?
Now the 2 grounds from the ls 2 coil are just grounds--neither go back to the pcm.
is that how you have it?
Olddragger

I8U

iTrader: (1)

Power and trigger are good and the resistor is grounded to the chassis. And the PCM ground and reg ground on the LS2 coils are just grounded separately to the chassis.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

then you should be good????
OD

I8U

iTrader: (1)

That's what I was thinking, I'm still leaning towards a security issue. Maybe cuz I had to cut and splice the coil power wire...I dunno. I wish I was closer to the shop. Most of ex-ROAR are making their way back from Homestead. If it is a security issue I could swap in one of the race cars RB flashed PCMs and go from there. The RB flash disables the immobilizer function.

I8U

iTrader: (1)

Oh man, I just remembered I cut 2 grounds under the UIM! I told myself to remember to splice the one back before I put it all back together. I had a hell of a time splicing and wiring the coils I totally forgot about it and started throwing the UIM and everything back on.

If I remember correctly that other ground I cut was grounded in series with the coil ground to 2 separate grounding points. I guess everything will be coming back out!

MikeTyson8MyKids

iTrader: (1)

Yes they were old...58,000 miles old..lol. I had no problems though, but I knew it was only a matter of time. When my car was new I'd get 23 mpg max, and recently it was down to 18-19. I figure with better weather coming up and summer blend gas, I should see 24-26 highway. But to answer your question, yes my coils were old. But, with the OEM coils, it doesn't seem to matter if they are old, new, how many miles etc. Just seems some are ok and some are bad. So, everyone's results may vary.

But, as far as drivability goes, it is MUCH better. Throttle response is much more linear.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Your battery is stone dead from working with the doors open so long.

The 'I got maybe two rotations out of the engine and then nothing' is the clue......

I8U

iTrader: (1)

I will have the battery checked but I find that a little hard to believe since my doors weren't open and the battery was disconnected the entire time I was working on the car.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

you cut both grounds-----brain fart
like the time a cranked a car without its oil filter on and went hmmmm- no oil pressure? ??? Yaaaaaaa!!!! Oh Sh--!!
olddragger

I8U

iTrader: (1)

Well, hopefully that will be the problem. I still need to tear the car apart again to make sure. BTW, I had the battery tested...it was more than good.