You probably have less of a chance of blowing a rotary than you do with a piston engine since there are fewer moving parts, plus constant one way motion.

 

Vin Diesel did it in Fast & the Furious on his RX7. For some people that movie is the bible.

 

yeah, they should change religions then. One thing that can be learned from F&F is that if I want a real stealthy fast car to evade cops and be difficult to identify I should put bright green neons under black civics and drive around at night. Open up a book for christ sake.

 

You mean "Fast and Furious" wasn't a documentary?!?

 

what about the skyline in 2fast, 2furious---sweeettt

I saw most of those cars at shows in LA

 

Check out the new dry spray/air filter combo.Looks to make throwing on the spray a piece of cake.Comments im really thinking about ordering one.
www.zex.com

 

old news....seriously like last year. It's a nice system though. ZEX is the only N20 I'd use on my daily driver. It's got 3 different saftey catches in case something should fail. Also, if the 8 is running rich like the MSP Protege does then the N20 shot will yield more power. i.e. a 50 shot would produce something like 60-65hp. I built a 1990 Taurus SHO with a zex kit and it was a beast. 255lph fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, accel injectors...my 100 shot put down almost 120hp due to all the extra fuel. Also ZEX is much easier to install due to not having solenoids. Just find a good location for the NMU and run your lines, thats it. very cool, very affordable power.

p.s. 1990 Taurus 3.0L V6, 1/8mile 8.52s @ 78mph.
Not bad for a 13yr old familt barge.

 

yea the zex kit is a good safe/reliable kit from what i have heard....im more of a NX man myself but i am starting to like the zex stuff
has anyone ever used the venom kit? it comes with a palm pilot! haha it looks like fun but its around 2k :-(

andrew

 

some venom kits are cheaper. They are all computer controlled, hence the palmpilot, but they are VERY effective. I would only recommend the Venom for someone with serious coin to invest in a HIGH dollar car. When critical tuning is the most improtant thing you're looking for then Venom is the best. However for $450 you can ZEX it up in the morning and be racing that night. As I mentioned earlier it is the safest I've seen/used. As far as their "air amplifier" nozzle. It's nice if you don't wish to cut the intake tubing to tap the nozzle, but I preffered always mounting mine out of sightjust in front of the throttle body. The closer to the TB the better. The amplifier is as far away from the TB as you can get. Not the best location, but better than nothing if you're opposed to cutting the intake plumbing.

 

Im just looking for some cheap power till FI options arrive.That dry shot in the air filter thing not only looks cool,but makes for an easy install.

 

Thats true. I prefer the hidden nozzle/wire set-up over ease of installation, but this may be best for you. Also, I'm new to the rotary engine, but I've seen several people use nitrous with great results. For piston engines the only two things needed to insure most power were: greater fuel supply ( N20 doesnt make power, the gas makes the power) and to verify that the nitrous or fuel won't puddle in the intake manifold. That wasa big problem with a wet shot that wasn't direct injection on the SHO. Just check with the rotor experts before taking my advice.

 

Interesting. Sounds almost too good to be true.

How about (evil grin) FI and this? :-)

 

i thought this was a nitrous thread......not a fast and furious flames thread. not to sound like a meanie poo, but i have heard wayyyyyyyy too many fast and furious jokes, i knoe the movie was corny, but it seems like ill never hear the end of it. anyone else agree with me?

 

They have a few of em on display at Universal Studios. The bright pink S2000 has to be one of the most horrific mod-jobs I've ever seen.

 

Can anyone say hijacked thread?

 

hijack thread

 

when we get replies like this:

...how can it not get off topic, and onto the topic of the biggest joke about performance enthusiasm ever??

 

my threads been hijacked :-(
hehe


andrew

 

its all good....haha but serioulsley, whats evryones thoughts on the old N20??


andrew

 

True you have a lesser chance of blowing the engine in a rotary with nitrous but the apex seals will likely go.

 

...the hell're you talking about???

ya see, this is exactly the kind of junk we don't need in a serious thread.

if ever again you have a question like this, post it in the Tech Garage section where we get the more technically serious of the forum checking more frequently.

 

I trying to figure out how you have less of a chance of the engine blowing even though the apex seals may blow. The logic, if you can call it that, of this one just puzzles me.

Nitrous can actually be used very effectively on a rotary engine. The proble is that too many people just slap on the good lod laughing gas and go for it not even taking into account added fuel or timing retardation (and perhaps user?). The key to a good nitrous setup is the same as it is with anything else. It is all in the tuning. Be realistic in your expectations. Don't expect to throw on a 200 shot and go racing. It has actually been done but there was much work. Never ever use a "dry" shot on a rotary or any other engine for that matter. this is just asking for a lean condition. You need fuel too. Only a "wet" shot is to be used. Now we need to make sure that your fuel system is up to your goals. The RX-8 has a returnless fuel system that uses no fuel pressure regulator. The car's ecu bases pressure through the fuel pump and supplies the necessary amount of fuel per what it determines are it's needs. On the RX-8 I would suggest either waiting for a good aftermarket system to interface with the cars ecu such as the Venom kit or to run a seperate fuel pump, regulator, and lines solely for the nitrous system. Then you need to address amount of nitrous. I'd run a progressive controller from Holley. This allows you to delay the full nitrous onset and let it gradually increse. It can be anywhere from a few milliseconds to a few seconds. This reduces the stress on the seals and makes it more gradual. A sudden hard hit is a huge instant temperature change as well as a huge pressure change in the engine. This is bad for the seals. If you intend to try really big shots then use a multistage system with a progressive controller. I'd rather try to limit the extreme end at about 125 shot or so max with a progressive just to be safe and this only assumes you have accounted for everything and are not just bolting it on. Now that you have nitrous control and fuel out of the way, how are you going to control the timing? There are 2 ways. One is proactive and one is retroactive. The only proactive way is to find a way to modify the ecu signal or replace the ecu entirely. This is the safest but most complex and expensive way to do it. It would also enable you to set up everything else for any mods. the retroactive way would be to install a box that retards timing when it senses that the engine is nearing detonation. I can't think of the company name who makes one right now but many RX-7 turbo people use them. They are about $600 or so but work very well. In the end by the time you are done, a nitrous system isn't any cheaper or easier than forced induction. Anytime you do something properly it never is cheap. Yes you can slap on a small nitrous kit for fairly cheap and maybe get good results but is the risk worth it? I hope this helps and I hope we got back on track.

 

jeez wakeech get over yourself. I just meant that the rotors themselves probably wouldn't crack like a piston or rod would.

 

then say that. non-sensical, incomplete and grammatically incorrect sentances do little to tell others what you're trying to say.

in any case, we've finally got a good reply from rotarygod. thanks guy.

 

Nitrous is great if you setup and design the proper system for your vehicle. Mainly all you hear from people these days is Nitrous is BAD cuz it will blow your engine... only idiots shoot way too much for their engine in order for your engine to break. First of all there are TONS of misconceptions dealing with n2o especially when the media and hollywood exploit them further and further from reality.

Nitrous like any forced induction requires tuning, design, and proper care. People that abuse it or do stupid things like heat up their bottle over the designated PSI are the ones that blow their cars up literally. I have yet to encounter anyone that has blown an engine due to nitrous if their setup was correct.