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Series I Aftermarket Performance Modifications Discussion of power adding modifications

The Process...

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Old 07-20-2008 | 06:05 AM
  #1  
cks796's Avatar
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The Process...

I need some opinions on what I'm planning on doing to my 8. I've asked a few other opinions and some nod and tell me it looks good, while others start laughing. So I need folks who are experenced in 8 tech to see what they think:

(Keep in mind, my 8 right now is completely stock)

RX-8 Project
In order of Purchase


Stage One: Intake, Cat-back exhaust, Pulley, Short Throw, Wheels (no ecu tuning necessary)

Stage Two: Add Tubular Header (ecu tuning needed)

Stage Three: Add Mid-pipe to replace the catalytic converter (ecu tuning needed)

Stage Four: Forced Induction (turbo or supercharger), need to upgrade the fuel system with larger injectors, high flow fuel pump, and ecu tuning, possible radiator upgrade (higher power engine produces more heat)


Under drive Pulley Kit
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/g...3-p-23066.html - $145.19

Exhaust
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/b...03-p-2404.html - $821.99

Coil-Over Plugs
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/o...3-p-29674.html - $698.99

Fuel Pump
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/w...ump-p-166.html - $104.99

Turbo (Maybe)
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/g...04-p-7624.html - $3506.99

Gauges (Maybe)
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/g...k-p-23275.html - $166.31
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/g...k-p-23277.html - $180.39
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/g...k-p-23276.html - $171.59
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/h...d-p-29965.html - $11.99
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/h...d-p-29965.html - $11.99
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/h...d-p-29965.html - $11.99

Clutch
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/c...4-p-22186.html - $335.99

Flywheel
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/m...x8-p-2663.html - $839.99

Full Body Repaint (Maybe)
Arctic White - $6,000.00

Body Kit(s) (Maybe)
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/f...7-p-30918.html - $2,197.99

Wheels
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/r...3-p-35277.html - $720.99

Misc
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/r...es-p-2678.html - $169.99
........ebay link removed.........S........ - $99.99

Total With Repaint/Body Kit/Turbo: $16,205.36
Total Without Repaint/Without Body Kit: $8,007.37
Total Without Repaint/Without Body Kit/Without Turbo: $3,946.12

Last edited by cks796; 07-20-2008 at 06:08 AM.
Old 07-20-2008 | 06:42 AM
  #2  
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Wow... must be a big fan of VividRacing!
Without sounding like a *****, have you really researched anything on modifying this car or did you just pick a website and go down their list?
Not saying that the list itself is bad, its just some items that I would recommend, VividRacing doesn't carry.
And if you read through the aftermarket threads, you'll know what I'm talking about.
And how are you going to "tune the ECU" with your stage 2 & 3 options? I didn't see a Cobb AccessPORT on the list.

Maybe I'm wrong, but it doesn't look like much thought went into this, just someone's wet dream (which we've all had).
You mentioned some nodded at the list while others laughed, let me just say that you may not like what I've said, but that is the nicest its probably gonna get.
Do yourself and your car a favor, research before you jump into FI.
Old 07-20-2008 | 07:30 AM
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Try to Avoid Vivid Racing ... they're for ricer civic fanboi who cant use the search function.

You can get 99% of the stuff u mention at a MUCH MUCH LOWER PRICE elsewhere.

Search is ur friend.

oh btw, if u're going to do the "stage 3" thing less than 2 yrs, I suggest you to forget about stage 1 and 2. Cuz its going to be a huge waste of money.
Old 07-20-2008 | 02:02 PM
  #4  
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I have used Vivid with no problems at all.

Number 1 on your list should be driving school.

It looks like you are going for speed only for stop light racing.

You don't hany suspension mods at all.

I still suggest you take HDPE classes or Auto X classes.
Old 07-20-2008 | 06:01 PM
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If you plan on going a lot of that stuff will become useless & unnecessary (air intake, header, etc.).
Old 07-20-2008 | 06:12 PM
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Go with some lowering springs and forget most of that stuff you mentioned...
Old 07-20-2008 | 11:39 PM
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fuel pump is my biggest issue with it, go with the bosch 044 instead. Its the life of your engine.
Old 07-20-2008 | 11:45 PM
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Interesting.....

Do you know - is the Bosch the same size/plug'n'play?

I'm on my second pump and now the new one is doing the same act as the old.....


S
Old 07-20-2008 | 11:55 PM
  #9  
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According to Bosch's papers. nope. u have to fab something.

or maybe I should let know-it-all to answer this ?

"The popular Bosch Motorsports "044" fuel pump is used by Japanese, European & Australian tuner shops, JGTC cars, Touring cars, almost all WRC cars, and many more. Quite possibly, the most popular aftermarket fuel pump. Capable of providing 300 LPH free flow and 200 LPH at 5 bar (or 72.5 psi) for up to 685 BHP. In comparison, the Walbro GSS341 255 "high pressure" fuel pump can support 390 BHP Note: Values calculated at 12V, 3 bar (43.5 psi) base fuel pressure, 2 bar (29 psi) boost pressure, 1:1 fuel pressure regulator ratio. These are inline fuel pumps, we recommend they be installed between the factory (or another aftermarket) in-tank fuel pump, and the fuel rail. These may be installed in the fuel tank, but some custom fabrication will usually be required. In addition, feeding these inline pumps with another pump (in series), will boost the output of the Bosch 044 fuel pump even higher.
I think this is what it looks like

Attached Thumbnails The Process...-bfp-044s.jpg  

Last edited by nycgps; 07-20-2008 at 11:57 PM.
Old 07-20-2008 | 11:58 PM
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You must like Vividracing. There about 1/2 mile up the street from me. I've never stopped in there though.

I'd be looking at Black Halo Racing for some of this stuff. More than likely get a better price and FREE shipping.

Last edited by Easy_E1; 07-21-2008 at 12:01 AM.
Old 07-21-2008 | 12:04 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Fanman
If you plan on going a lot of that stuff will become useless & unnecessary (air intake, header, etc.).
I think he is trying to say, If you plan on adding a turbo, a lot of that stuff will be come useless. I would agree. It would be a waste of money. Also, I would go with a mid-pipe or high flow cat, before I would get a header.
If your going to get some go, you better get some stop also.
Old 07-21-2008 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by alnielsen
If your going to get some go, you better get some stop also.
always a valid statement, just keep in mind OP, that this car has great brakes already. short of changing pads you may find it cost INeffective to do a lot of the popular brake work: BBK, rotors, etc...
Old 07-21-2008 | 12:31 PM
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All great advice, I'm going to do what several of you have already mentioned and go with Exhaust first (High Flow Cats with B&B Exhaust, best HP out of an exhaust I've found. Then I'll go into the stereo probably and then a suspension.

Thanks for the help.

CK
Old 07-30-2008 | 02:55 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by StealthTL
Interesting.....

Do you know - is the Bosch the same size/plug'n'play?

I'm on my second pump and now the new one is doing the same act as the old.....


S
Interested....

I'm in the same boat. I NEED a fuel pump that is not going to cost me $800-$200 "if" my pump is "good"...... I really doubt it.

I will buy one and find out myself. I'm just curious if the walbro or bosch will function properly with our return less fuel system.
Old 07-30-2008 | 03:29 PM
  #15  
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im only 17 and kinda new here but wouldnt it make more sense that you work on suspension, brakes, and throttle response before you move on to turbo kits.

after your confortable enough with your car to try and out run people then move on to swaps or turbo which ever you prefer. but like i said im only 17 im still learning. good luck

Naldy
Old 07-30-2008 | 03:54 PM
  #16  
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Meh, it depends on how you drive. I drive pretty hard, but I don't auto cross. The limitation of my suspension tends to be the quality of the road rather than the holding power of my stock gt suspension. Sometimes, I can find a smooth curve where I can push it, but mostly I'm scanning ahead for the next pot hole trying to break my wheel. So, I'm still on the stock suspension with only wider tires. Now, my power delivery is fairly non-stock.

So I did power first and I'll go to suspension work next year. Now if you auto-x or take it up, the suspension will yield exponentially better returns. More grip/stability will make you faster while more power could actually make it more difficult to drive.
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