^Not sure how to help with that, but I believe that happened to a lot of people with that set of pulleys. On a side note, I installed the Agency Power pulleys and AEM CAI today, and it has made quite a noticable difference in my mid-range power. Very happy with the purchase.

 

Did you reset the engine/computer? Put your key in the ignition, turn to the on position (not starting the car), then step on the break peddle like 20 times really fast. Keep your eye on the oil gauge, and when it goes right and then back left, your done. This was in the instructions on the Unorthodox Pulleys, and I would assume that you need to do the same thing with all pulleys.

Let me know if that solves your problem.

Keith

 

I got unorthodox pulleys and I did reset ECU like U said and still got CEL.

 

The ECU light is intermittent some times it comes on and stays on some times it flashes, some times it does not come on at all,

Warrington Mazda had the car in they said it was to do with the pulleys, Crank sensor needed setting to new setting for the pulleys

Spoke to WGT Developments they said that it was not the pulleys as they do not have a different setting to the original ones, they said there is a problem with the car and it is not tied in with the pulleys and were adamant that if I was to put the original pulleys back on that the light would still be there. They said possibly that Warrington Mazda was not looking past the pulleys to see what the problem could be.


any ideas done ECU reset and still no change

 

I have a feeling they are right, and if you do put the stock pulleys back on, you'd have the same problem. I think others have had a solid CEL, which is somewhat normal. If yours if flashing, then you are misfiring. You should just put them on for a few days to see if that is the problem. I doubt the pulleys could cause you to misfire, but stranger things have been known to happen.

 

Does the agency pulley effect the warranty at all? I'm looking to buy one, just wondering if anyone has gotten a CEL because of it???

 

I don't think the Agency Power gives you a CEL, but I wouldn't know since I have a racepipe anyway. As far as warranty, not sure, I think it depends on how much a a dick the service person is.

 

Firstly, I have the Trust/GReddy pulleys... They are lighter than the stock, by how much i am not sure as i neglected to weigh it...

As far as what it did for the car, i would assume nothing but i installed it at the same time as the turbo kit...

I had no info about the pulleys when i bought them, all i knew was that Trust had a pulley kit and i had faith when i ordered it... If i knew it was a 2 piece, i would have just saved the money.

Now it just looks trick lol... And i'm never buying trust again (except for their turbo's)

 

To reset the ECU you need to disconnect the negative on the battery for a few minutes.

Then you reset the shaft position sensor by turning the ignition to the run position and tapping 20 times on the brake pedal.

For the first week with the pulleys installed it is good to take it easy on the gas pedal. The following week you should notice the gains. I noticed immediately that the engine wound down a little quicker than it had.

You may need to tighten up your belts a smidge.

Did you use smaller replacement belts?

Check the nuts on the pulleys, and the shaft position sensor and plate is properly set. Believe it only goes on one way because of the notches in the plate.

 

I did, cause stock was too big. I drove more than 350km, before I started pushing hard pedal gas. Yeah I feel difference. Today is week with new pulleys and other stuff. Pulleys are well matched, cause everything work fine.

 

Does the Unorthodox Racing pulley kit bring the "crank" pulley? I was looking at the Agency crank pulley and wondering if I still need it if I buy the UR pulleys. I figure do all the pulleys at once.

 

UR includes 3 pulleys for the SS version: crank, water pump, and alternator. Only one it doesn't include is the AC which I think is pressed on.

The three are matched.

 

What do you mean by pressed on? Sry for the stupid question.

 

The AC pulley I think is pressed on at the factory so it is not easy to take off unless you take the Air conditioner off and press it off with a press...

I should double check but I thought that was their reason for not replacing it other than it wouldn't help anything to under drive it as a person normally doesn't have it on during any heavy driving.

 

does the underdrive pulleys effect the mpg? 1-10 how hard is the install? didnt install my exhaust but managed to install my intake (aeM)

 

MPG will be effected none, although technically by numbers you would increase on the hyway as the engine does not have to work as hard to run the same speed.... again not noticeable though.

if you can install an intake (difficulty in my book a 2) you can do this... difficulty is a 3 only because you have to remove the intake in most cases, and use an impact to get the alt pulley off and on (recomended). other then that it's a snap.

 

I have to comment on the question on difficulty. I would agree that it may be a 3 or 4...but I was very worried about doing this without the support of someone who has done this before. I would say my worry factor on the intake install was a 0, or 1 (if we are not including 0)...because I have done intakes on several of my vehicles. Oh, and also because the intake came with very detailed instructions including diagrams and actual vehicle pictures. I have never replaced pulleys, or even changed a belt...so my worry factor on this was a 4....with a 8 being the install of my flywheel. The Pulleys come with no installation instructions, so you'll need someone with some knowledge of what to do, and in what order to remove the parts. Too bad we didn't do a DIY on this since we did 3 sets of pulleys over the course of two weeks. I watched the first install, assisted on the second install, and did the third entirely myself.

EDIT: Oh, and the pulleys do not come with the needed replacement belts, which are not easily found given the sizing required. If you have a NAPA Autoparts close, make sure you go there to buy the belts before you start....they were the only on to carry the belt recommended by UR. We did try several other brands, but none had the exact size..we tried them, but ended up taking them back since they didn't fit properly.

 

if i get the agency power pulley do i still need to buy a belt or is that only the UR pulleys?

 

 

AP comes with the belt.

 

It is fairly straight forward:

Disconnect the Positive terminal on the battery.

Remove the Stock airbox.

Slightly loosen the bolts on the main drive pulley and water pump pulley.

Loosen the belts by loosening the bolt above the alternator. This is next to the strut brace.

Easiest way to get the nut off of the alternator pulley is to use an impact wrench and a quick trigger pull as it comes off really easy.

Swap out the pulleys making sure the shaft position sensor ring (ring with teeth on it) gets put back on before the main drive pulley.

Tighten down the bolts as best as you can before adding the belts. Do not use a vise grip on the edge of the pulleys to hold them in place it will mar them up...

A quick tap on the impact wrench without holding the alternator pulley will tighten it up easily. Be careful not to apply too much pressure as the pulley could crack if it is applied brutally.

Add the belts and add tension by pulling up on the alternator and tightening the nut that was loosened earlier above the alternator.

The belt tension can be checked by twisting the belt. It should not be able to twist 90 degrees.

Once all the bolts are tightened, check them all again

Reinstall the airbox and reconnect the positive cable on the battery.

Turn the car to the run position and tap the brakes 20 times very quickly or until the oil pressure does the sweep.

Go through the standard recallibration for the DCS steering wheel to the left and then the right.

Turn the key off.

Turn back on and start the car.

There shouldn't be any warning lights on after starting the car.

Turn the car off and check all bolts and belts again.

The recommendation from Unorthodox Racing is to take it easy driving for a week this will give the car time to learn the new changes and will get the most benefit out of them. (shifting by 3000 RPMs)

 

Nice write up.. Add some pics and we have a DIY.

Too bad I don't have a impact wrench or I would think about doing this. Might be a fun little project.

 

No impact wrench needed.
Just installed the Agency pulley yesterday.

Nor do you have to remove anything beyond the engine cover to replace the pulley. Guess I'm happy to work in tight spaces. Took me 1-1/2 hours, only because I dropped a pulley bolt through the intake, and it took a long time to locate it.

Can't report on the butt dyno results yet, as its been a hectic weekend.

 

If a person uses an impact wrench the space is needed. It makes it a lot easier to uninstall and install the alternator nut as it is free turning.

What did you do to keep it from turning?

 

I used my hand and another wrench to keep it from turning. And no an impact wrench is not needed.

Agent008, there is already a DIY with pics for the AP Pulleys at least. I believe its somewhere in this thread.