Even if there's air bubbles, and really there shouldn't be considering how long you've driven the car, you don't need to fully drain to get them out.

 

Didn't think so, like I said.. over the week I did the install..the coolant level got very.. well..level. lol. But I'm surprised that the foam was the sealant and all. And you guys think that would really affect the temp that much, hmmm?

 

when I threw my stock radiator out I noticed the foam on it too, but I was like hmm dont need it.

then later I found out (1-2 yrs ago?) that I actually NEED it lol

but still didnt put some on (u can buy them at home depot) until like hmm maybe 1/2 yr or 1 yr ago.

 

Sealing the rad to the airpath is the single MOST important detail in maximizing the cooling system. (Short of ensuring that your fans work amd you actually have coolant in the system, that is!)
That means all the way around.

 

Gotcha. Well thanks a million for the help guys.

Lion, I'm free on Sunday or Sat night. I don't have tools but sat maybe I can get something going at Astral's, OR maybe on Sunday, I was planning on going to Altspaces, clean the engine bay, do the foam and then we're all going to some crazy extreme lazer tag place down the street..lol.

 

I agree but wonder if there isn't something else at work with this car of Zelse's. I'm glad there may be some folks to look it over with him and make sure all the fundamentals are correct.

Maybe the problem's with his AP . Just kidding.

Paul.

 

lol well I'll record temps of that day...put on the foam and all...then record after and see what happens.

 

Sounds good. Keep us informed.

Paul.

 

Driving up before sealing:

81 degrees out, VERY overcast
Idle - 210-214 degree
Cruising on street - 35MPH - 3.5 - 4 RPM, 4th gear - 208 degree
Cruising on highway - 65MPH - 3.5 - 4 RPM, 6th gear - 198-200 degree

After sealing up

81 degrees out, VERY overcast still
Idle - 208 degrees
Cruising on street - 35MPH - 3.5 - 4 RPM, 4th gear - 202
Cruising on highway - 65MPH - 3.5 - 4 RPM, 6th gear - 198-200 degree

Now I'm not sure if these are the temperatures I should be seeing...but...I am. The only difference between foam I used and foam actually on OEM.. it's the weather strip foam that you would need to stack layer upon layer. So I made the bottom by stacking a few stripes and made them the same size as oem and it's sealed against the bottom of the splash guard. The sides are not as big as OEM foam, but definitely a good amount.

So yeah, are these what I should be expecting, should I make sure the sides are big as OEM or bigger? Got nationals coming up so just want to make sure I'm okay.. I saw a top of 215 when I was really getting on it... on the highway :/

 

that still seems pretty high for a upgraded cooling system...

I have stock cooling accept accessport.

Yesterday drivign down in Miami the temperature was about 96 degrees out. Humidity idk. it was crazy hot though. no air movement accept my driving.

The accessport and my gauge pod said 196 70% of the time other then that it would range from 185 to 196.

I only it 202 when i was cruising the a mall parking lot in 1st gear at 4k rpm.

Shouldnt an aftermarket system be much cooler? or if not cooler at least keep it at a steady temp?

Cruising the highway from 60mph to 85mph i ran about 192.

 

Zelse you are too high for some reason.
are you running a lower gear ratio? at 3.5K to 4K you should be faster than 65MPH--especially 4K?
is your belt slipping or SOMETHING.
you should not be over 180-190F at just idling with ambient of 81F.
how long does it take to get your car warm----to 180F?
do you know your oil temps? just curious.
are you running protector screens on the oil coolers or the radiator?
OD

 

I'm running the 4.777 gear ratio. belts are on tight and just right..you know, where you can turn it JUST halfway.

Takes my car about 4-5 minutes to get to 190.

Oil temps I don't, I should possibly check that.

Protector screens on only oil coolers now as it couldn't fit my new radiator.

Should I put more foam on the sides for kicks? Greenblurr suggested taking out the thermostat and running it without it to see if that helps. I also didn't really fully understand what the thermostat did...until now. lol. I don't run the car in the winter and I was told I may not need it..but well see. I'm really out of ideas..I have nationals this weekend, so I'm kind of fretting. :/

 

ABSOLUTELY don't run your engine without a thermostat, you will cook it. Is your cap in good shape?

Paul.

 

I swear I'm not trying to be funny as I ask this..but..

How can I tell? I ask because, the cap only goes on and off..soo.. it's on, so I don't know what could be "good" about it.

 

Can you elaborate on this? I don't see how removing a restriction in the cooling system would 'cook' the motor... would it take longer to warm up? yes.... would it run cooler?? yes.... But I dont see how this would 'cook' the motor...


I ran no T-stat in my track car for years... and about 60K miles.... no ill affects...

 

Unless I'm blind I don't see thermostats in the race RX8 either. Like look in the knightsports engine bay.. I don't see it..

 

Just ordered a water pump + thermostat combo...

I'll start taking some data without the upgrade, then take some after. Make this as scientific as we can.

I'm excited though, seems most people really endorse these products.

 

^-- which is why I bought it as well. Thats also why I want to get to the bottom of this. I mean some point soon (possibly tonight) I'll put more foam on the sides if need be, but I don't think a 1/2 inch will make a huge difference..or the difference we SHOULD be seeing that is.

 

The cap pressure affects the boiling point of your water/coolant mix. Is it the original? If the cap is not holding pressure you will have a problem that feeds on itself, growing into a greater problem.

Paul.

 

Cap is OEM and should seal fine...feels like it does anyways. I'll borrow one from my Mom's Mazda 6..run it and try that.

Any other solutions though? And what about the thermostat mention Paul?

 

We don't run a thermostat on our race cars but it is IMPERATIVE that you block off the bypass in the housing or else you will always run elevated temps since the water will choose the path of least resistance and keep bypassing (Avoiding the radiator). The thermostat blocks the bypass when it opens. The 'leg' on the bottom of the themostat is responsible for that function. There is a closing occurring while an opening is taking place.

Paul.

 

So how could we potentially check if the thermostat is not working properly then? What if it is not opening or closing all the way?

 

Good to know, didnt know we had that type of a bypass.

 

Hot water in a pan??

Bring the temp of the water up to when it should open and siually observe if its opening

 

I was just about to say that. A suitable thermometer will show when it begins to open and when it achieves 'full open'. Our thermostat is designed to close the bypass relatively early and quite effectively. The leg is larger than stock and covers the bypass hole completely. The opening area of our thermostat is larger than stock which works well in conjunction with the slightly early close of the bypass.

I'm not sure if there is any way to install our thermostat improperly. The stock one has an off center foot and requires you to orient it to the correct location due to that.

Paul.