RP Short Shifter Installed (first impressions)
#152
Shifty Bastard.
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Richard Paul
Yes I believe the holes are elogated but there are tiny dowel pins. I'm now thinking that a person could file the dowel pins on the oposite side so it can be moved a slight bit.
I think it's probably just stiff because of the revised geometry. Takes a while to get used too?? It will all become clearer with the two rubber shift boots off.
Gomez.
#154
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I broke the damn rear R/H tab. Hehe.
I tried to move the plate... no luck. As stated earlier, the dowel pins locate it firmly. I am 'riding the wall' on the 4-5 and 5-6 shifts... It seems just enough to get it into 5th from 4th without drama. Its just that the space in between 3-4 and 5-6 is a good deal less than the space between 1-2 and 3-4. Maybe its because there isnt another retainer on the left side of the gates that keeps the stick from moving further left than necessary to engage first. I guess the flex in the ball joint adds as well. As a little test, while in 5th I can push down (longitudinally as if to engage reverse) on the stick and move a little to the right. I feel the tab going under the retainer, and if I let the stick go it kind of pops up and clears the tab. Is this normal? Maybe I could have done this with the stock stick as well.
I dont know if its a tolerance problem or if its a problem at all really. But 3 and 5, 4 and 6 feel awfully close. I will probably just get used to it. Any thoughts?
I tried to move the plate... no luck. As stated earlier, the dowel pins locate it firmly. I am 'riding the wall' on the 4-5 and 5-6 shifts... It seems just enough to get it into 5th from 4th without drama. Its just that the space in between 3-4 and 5-6 is a good deal less than the space between 1-2 and 3-4. Maybe its because there isnt another retainer on the left side of the gates that keeps the stick from moving further left than necessary to engage first. I guess the flex in the ball joint adds as well. As a little test, while in 5th I can push down (longitudinally as if to engage reverse) on the stick and move a little to the right. I feel the tab going under the retainer, and if I let the stick go it kind of pops up and clears the tab. Is this normal? Maybe I could have done this with the stock stick as well.
I dont know if its a tolerance problem or if its a problem at all really. But 3 and 5, 4 and 6 feel awfully close. I will probably just get used to it. Any thoughts?
#155
Registered
iTrader: (5)
I'll vote for filing the tab a small amount, very small amount. It takes very little at the tab to make a difference on the stick. Try just a few strokes on the tab, see if you can feel it. Look and see if there is then some clearance when in 5/6.
Don't forget t9o use a fine file almost like a needle file.
In fact if you had a small enough needle file you could slot the dowel holes. These are very small holes though.
Don't forget t9o use a fine file almost like a needle file.
In fact if you had a small enough needle file you could slot the dowel holes. These are very small holes though.
#156
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Richard please refresh me, how much clearance should I be looking for when in 5/6? Like Gomez said, I think my best bet would be to file the tab a bit, and not mess with the stock plate.
#157
Recovered Modaholic
Thread Starter
RP, here's a question. The reverse rattle on my 8 is the tab riding against the the plate. After going into reverse it's able to come back up (unlike the stock shifter) and rest to the side of the plate. Filing or otherwise moving the plate to the right would seem to make this problem worse. I would think moving to the left would make the 5-6 gate tight. Is there a solution to keep easy 1-6 and not have reverse rattle?
#158
Registered
iTrader: (5)
you should have none to maybe .015. meaning you cannot go over the gate but get into it easy. having none like you do now isn't really none because there is pressure on it.
trial and error is how you're going to do it best. If the damn dowels were bigger I would make up some offset ones for cases like this. If I was more confident in not getting chips into the works I would re-dowel them on the car. Or remove the dowels set the plate where you want it and drill and tap some 6-32 button head allen screws to hold the alignment.
This could work for guys that miss being able to ride the wall. We could use the existing dowel holes for the screws. They will be offset from each other during the first drilling operation but with the three bolts holding it down it will not move. Therefore it will be fine. We just take the top plate off andtap the bottom. Then drill the top plate to clearance. Or you could tap them both together. That works.
Maybe even better with thin plates.
trial and error is how you're going to do it best. If the damn dowels were bigger I would make up some offset ones for cases like this. If I was more confident in not getting chips into the works I would re-dowel them on the car. Or remove the dowels set the plate where you want it and drill and tap some 6-32 button head allen screws to hold the alignment.
This could work for guys that miss being able to ride the wall. We could use the existing dowel holes for the screws. They will be offset from each other during the first drilling operation but with the three bolts holding it down it will not move. Therefore it will be fine. We just take the top plate off andtap the bottom. Then drill the top plate to clearance. Or you could tap them both together. That works.
Maybe even better with thin plates.
#159
Registered
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by TheDosDog
RP, here's a question. The reverse rattle on my 8 is the tab riding against the the plate. After going into reverse it's able to come back up (unlike the stock shifter) and rest to the side of the plate. Filing or otherwise moving the plate to the right would seem to make this problem worse. I would think moving to the left would make the 5-6 gate tight. Is there a solution to keep easy 1-6 and not have reverse rattle?
I think we are all fighting the same thing, factory tolorences. I seem to have found the middle ground as most of these are ok. It is just those on the outer ends of the range. We can't complain to Mazda so we have to work it out. My best solution is for guys with cars on the outer edge of the tolorence, keep the shifter and get a new Rx8. Test it before you buy it to see if the shifter works ok.
Not a good idea? I said it was my best thought. My best, get it? me me me.
Ok got that out. :D
Only time will tell if there is a way to solve this for all cars. With all these minds working on it, we will prevail.
As to what the stock shifter does after reverse has to be the same as what mine does. There the operation is the same. The tab is under the plate while in reverse then pops up to form the lockout. It has to hit the plate to keep you out of the reverse gate. I think the tab is in the same place as the stock one as far as up and down goes. I will look at the print tomorrow and check it against the stock one. But even if it is off............... what am thinking if it was off it wouldn't work.
you can see it is right because it is even with the plate when poped up. In fact I remember we had to adjust this to find just the right hight.
Dosdog I don't think you have a problem. Your just going back to the clutch chatter when in revese. Let the clutch out and go faster, it will stop rattling.
#161
Shifty Bastard.
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TheDosDog
I would agree except my OEM shifter stays under the plate in reverse. It does not come up beside the plate while still in reverse.
#162
Recovered Modaholic
Thread Starter
I left my camera at work but imagine the shifter in 6th. The tab is against the plate riding even with it. To get into reverse, I push down and over and get into the reverse gate. When I take my hand off the shifter, the shifter comes up and the tab is able to go to the same position as sixth, even height with the plate while still in reverse. It does not stay under the plate in reverse as the OEM does.
#163
Shifty Bastard.
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Something sounds fishy. I need to pull mine apart and check again what happens with reverse selected. Going to work soon, so it'll have to be tomorrow....
#164
Registered
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by TheDosDog
I left my camera at work but imagine the shifter in 6th. The tab is against the plate riding even with it. To get into reverse, I push down and over and get into the reverse gate. When I take my hand off the shifter, the shifter comes up and the tab is able to go to the same position as sixth, even height with the plate while still in reverse. It does not stay under the plate in reverse as the OEM does.
I agree, that doesn't sound right. It's in the r gate but the shifter is in the 5/6 position? Seems your plate needs to come left a bunch. or maybe it just takes a little.
I'd like to see this picture also. Gomez has a unit from the same run as dosdog does. It will be good to see what he says.
#165
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I filed a bit off the tab on mine. It would barely shift into 5/6...it was really tight. After a small reduction, it is much smoother...it slips in if you are "riding the wall". Do you have the old style cup? Thats what mine was doing when the cup slipped below the spring....the tab would slide under the gate , and the lockout didn't work
#168
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dannobre, what kind of file did you use specifically? Did you just file little by little and keep re-trying the action?
Originally Posted by dannobre
I filed a bit off the tab on mine. It would barely shift into 5/6...it was really tight. After a small reduction, it is much smoother...it slips in if you are "riding the wall". Do you have the old style cup? Thats what mine was doing when the cup slipped below the spring....the tab would slide under the gate , and the lockout didn't work
#170
Registered
iTrader: (5)
I would use a crosscut file. A bastard is course.
If you were an Aussie you can use the word in every sentence if you like. It must have something to do with the out of wedlock rate.
I also gather that use in a written statement you leave out all the spaces. Like this: Mymategomezisafunnybastard. :D
If you were an Aussie you can use the word in every sentence if you like. It must have something to do with the out of wedlock rate.
I also gather that use in a written statement you leave out all the spaces. Like this: Mymategomezisafunnybastard. :D
#171
Shifty Bastard.
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Richard Paul
I also gather that use in a written statement you leave out all the spaces. Like this: Mymategomezisafunnybastard. :D
Gunna have lunch and then take a few shifty pics....
#175
Shifty Bastard.
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Posts: 4,835
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Richard Paul
dAN, IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU TOOK A BIT OFF THEN. i WOULDN'T THINK THAT NESSASARY.
Gomez are you taking pictures of the tab in reverse? Notice it didn't take me more then a line to notice the caps lock was on.
Gomez are you taking pictures of the tab in reverse? Notice it didn't take me more then a line to notice the caps lock was on.