I haven't tried them yet. Give me a specific one you are interested in and I will give it a try.

well i imagine we only have bank 1 & 2 for short and long fuel trim
(can you try those four?)

and only bank 1 sensors 1 & 2 for O2.
I wouldn't know how to interpret the O2 data... (some value from 0 to 99 is what afr?)

if that is too many requests, I apologize - I figure those are the ones that apply to our car.

More stuff seems to keep popping up during this holiday week, so i probably won't get to this until next week. Please remind me if I forget!

OK,

I've printed my form - just got to dig up my receipt and bring myself to remove the unit from my car so I can send mine in ^_^ heh....

I really use it to watch my warmup in this cold weather.... 90F/CLSD LP before i'll move the car - unless I really have to do otherwise.

Right now i run with the gauge display - water temp, AIT, open/closed lp and GPH; I don't know if I'll change it to any new items once i get the Xgauge upgrade... (it's too bad they don't make a double display - 8 gauges at once) but it will still be useful for occasional checking~ (that's why i ask about the trims, etc.)

I'm pretty good at watching the warmup tach behavior so I can live without it for a little while i guess.

How well does the mpg display work for you?

I'll assume you're asking about the gauge mode (not trip computer mode):

the instant mpg? it's basically worthless... (a one second snapshot of fuel consumed versus disance traveled is too short a window - it jumps all over)

I suppose once you get the xgauge feature upgrade you could do the current trip mpg as a gauge... that has value. Currently if i'm curious about that i just switch over to the trip view when i get where i'm going...

the other thing that interests me about this upgrade is that the device seems to have been updated for the vacuum fuel cut, mine never goes below .5 gph (if i remember correctly) - with the update i should see 0 gph in vacuum. (if earlier posts are accurate)

Actually I find the instant mpg somewhat useful. Gives me an idea of how driving style affects fuel economy, etc. You can get the same indication with the gph gauge.

i prefer instant gph to mpg specifically because it charts fuel per time rather than fuel per distance.

to me, the consideration of distance traveled obscures the more pure data of fuel consumed @ a rpm/load

traffic flow can have such a significant effect on mpg

mpg only makes sense to me when i consider the ultimate object of car is move from a to b (rather than the objective of the engine which is produce force)

Why does the fuel flow reading drop to 0 when the ECU switches to open loop??

I'm guessing you are seeing that when it goes into the fuel shutoff mode discussed earlier in the thread.

I've seen that but...

No. This is happening at highway speed (124 km/h), cruise control, relatively level ground.

EDIT:
Got an answer from Ron Delong at Linear Logic

Look at the TPS at idle. Set the CUTOFF value (MORE>SETUP>FUEL>CUTOFF) to 2 higher than the idle TPS value. For instance, if the idle TPS is 14, set CUTOFF at 16.

If this doesn't help, set CUTOFF to 0. This will turn off the fuel cutoff sensing which is causing your problem.

My cut off was set to TPS=24. Based on Ron's suggestion I set my cutoff to TPS=15.
Fixed the problem.

i entered the hp code and it works great.

in 3-4 weeks i should have my turbo reinstalled on my car, then i'll get to see if it calculates the extra power properly.

also i think it would be wise to start a new thread specifically about scangauge xgauge codes. looking through random unrelated scangauge comments is difficult. the hp code is the only one i've made use of so far.

I've been trying out the X-gauge instruments. The Scan Gauge is a very slick piece of technology.
Did an X-gauge code thread ever get started?

Took me awhile to remember to post this: I did try all the O2 sensor codes. I only got one of them to work, which was I believe bank 1, sensor 2.

thanks for the update~

Hi all,

I have read all the posts in this thread because I am interested in purchasing Scan Guage II. However, I am not sure if all the information provided by the gauge are useful to us.

Ok it is useful to know a fault code but how often you get a cell in your car? If you get it rarely why not check it in dealers?

I would find useful guage an oil temp but our car does not have the sensor.

So what really can I do with water temp, and air intake temp and rpms etc?

And the trip computer , MPH etc I do not care to find out because our car consumes a lot of fuel.

So IS IT REALLY useful?


I guess not. And for those that see very useful scans with laptop in the car I agree but if I do not have a car pc then I do not like the idea of having a laptop inside the car.

Well the fast changing gauges are not all that useful because of the slower update rate. I like the water temp gauge in the winter because it lets me know when the car is fully warmed up.
The air intake temp is interesting because the inlet temp can get much higher than the ambient sensor as the engine warms up. If I do the throttle body bypass mod I'll be able to gauge the result.
The mileage feature lets me modify my driving style and route selection for the best results overall which will help pay for the unit.
I've already read back a fault code for an O2 sensor. I was able to buy the sensor on Ebay and get it installed at a local rotary shop. The dealer would have charged me roughly three times what I paid for the part and install job. (more than enough to pay for the unit) BTW the dealer charges about one hour labour to check the codes once you're out of warranty.
In summary, get one by the time your three year warranty is over.

exactly.
(this is why i still haven't sent mine in yet.... - well that and I'm lazy/can't find my receipt)

coolant temp is available without the update. It should have water, and intake temps.

You also don't need the receipt for the update (unless you've bought yours so recently that you're elegiable for the free update)

mysql101, where's the scangauge xgauge codes thread??
I've installed all of the code listed in this thread and I've adjusted my cutoff setting (see #111 above) but I'd like to try some more...

haha, i think you misunderstood me!

i do use it currently for the water temp (which i depend on for a safer warm up during these winter months in NE); and i do qualify for the free upgrade.

accurate water temp was probably the most significant gauge item to me out of the box.

I love this guage. Period. I cannot wait to start messing with it.

^^ So you bought one? Cool.

I got the new one with Xguage as a christmas gift.

Nice gift! I gave one as a gift but I had to buy my own.

Same here, getting ready to set it up. The thing I would really like to see in the Air-Fuel ratio. Could this be accessed through the Xguage?

I think that for fully warm up you need to check the oil temp and not the water temp. Water temp reaches operating temp faster than oil temp. As a result, it is not good idea to push your car just having as reference the water temp because the oil would not have reached the operating temp.

exactly---water warms up much faster--by oem water temp gauge the car seems to be warmed up but the actual oil temp at that time is below 130F.
oldscdragger

Actually the Scan gauge water temp reading takes a much longer to reach operating range than the OEM gauge. That said I agree with your statements (but don't have an OT gauge yet).

I entered the O2, short term and long term fuel trim codes today....
I wish I knew what the readings mean. I want to get the AFR somehow. Any ideas?

The long and short term trims can come in handy to help diagnose an overly rich or lean running condition in closed loop. Basically the long term trim is how much % fuel(averaged over time from short term trim) is added or taken away from the base map to get closest to a stoich mixture. Think of short term trim as a fine tune which is constantly changing to try to achieve a stoich mixture for the current conditions. You can play around with this and see the changes being made by pulling a vacuum hose(at idle ONLY) and watching the short term numbers increase fuel to the engine at idle. After 5-10 minutes you wil notice that the long term fuel trims will re-adjust and then the short term trims will show less of an increase after. Then re-attach the hose and watch the trims lean back out. Just remember to re-attach the vacuum hose and do NOT drive the vehicle with it off.

I thought there was a code for the O2 readings???

I think the oil temp is irrelevant to the engine warming up. What you really want to know before you push the engine is if all metal parts have heated up and expanded to proper operating tolerances. The fact that the water circulates through the block will make it the best indicator of when the engine is in tolerance. The oil has little bearing here, this is obviously why Mazda does not look at the oil temp.

So a 0% reading would be a theoretical perfect running condition?

I said that I entered the O2 code but wanted the AFR code...

My short term is close to 0 after warm up and long term ends up at 2 or 3
My fuel fill-up calibration is set to a bit over 10%
O2 reads all over the place depending on engine load.

Anyone else??

Oh sorry....I read the O2 thing wrong. :eyetwitch

X-gauge creation document
 

Time to try some gauges...

Thanks to Ron at LL

Well if you are asking about the long term and short term both reading 0 then yes....but I highly doubt you would ever see that condition.

Understood, just wanted to confirm I understand the concept. I'll have to set these up.

Also is the trip MPG accurate for you guys?

If you follow the instructions for setting it up then it's quite accurate.
The one problem I had with mine was regarding the fuel cutoff setting which caused the fuel flow reading to drop to 0.0 in high speed cruise. Follow Ron's advice from post #111 and yours will work.

Thanks for posting the pdf with the explanations of the commands. That is good stuff to know.

Got mine on Friday. Not so sure about the HP reading though. It seems to spike when shifting up to as much as 300HP which obviously is not correct.

I did however find something very interesting about the readings when I was testing certain configurations. I noticed that with my front windshield defroster on(Runs the A/C unit) my HP readings were consistantly between 269-279HP. When I switched off the defroster my HP readings lowered to 249-259HP. I also tested the HP with DSC and without and also with it totally deactivated and HP readings were the same with all these conditions.

Does anyone have a data logger that might be able to record what might be going on here with regards to the A/C? If not, I should be getting the OBDScan soon as I was told they were releasing a package including a ECU reprogrammer the second week of January which I am waiting for.

my HP reading was 438:rofl: fully stock with only Supercat.

I got a super 8? haha...the HP reading certainly not correct!

I think mazda must have used one of these for their HP figures!

It could be 300. It is reporting gross HP, not brake HP, which is what the manufacturer will quote. Scangauge tech support told me gross is usually about 25% higher than brake. I've seen 284 on my car, which would be roughly 25% higher than the 205 bhp or so I am probably at now. I'm sure it's not 100 percent accurate, but I could see 300 ghp for an MT. Not 400 though :)

Not sure if everyone is doing this but you'll want to increase the sample rate to high. You get much quicker reading of the data, makes the instant MPG more useful along with a number of the other gauges.

Still having trouble with the trip MPG, tells me I'm getting 17MPG when I am getting about 12MPG. Any idea what this could be?

Did you not read the instructions?
The obvious one is the tank volume.
Also you need to fill up the tank and select fill up from the Scan gauge menu. Always complete the entries up to save but don't update the fuel volume yet.
At the next fill up after that you do the same steps but this time you set the amount of fuel the scan gauge thinks was used to the actual amount used.
You need to set the idle cutoff to around 16 before you do the fuel calibration. See post #111

Read and understood.

Tank volume was entered, and I haven't filled up yet since installation so the remained could not be done. I would assume the scan gauge MPG trip info would be calculated off the fuel delivery and mileage driven to calculate MPG, true?

True, but you need to calibrate the fuel flow reading. Just fill up early and by the next tank you can adjust your figures. Don't forget the cutoff setting.

I just filled up today and told the SG that the car was filled up (13.7 gallons). I noticed today that the Scan Gauge now reports that my idea consumption is around .87 GPH. Before the fill up and me telling that to the SG the SG was showing about .40 GPH of fuel consumed. This bothers me because I would expect the SG to get a acurete figure from the cars compunter of how much fuel is being used with out external input. Is my understanding here incorrect?