What is your fuel calibration set to? Mine is +11% to +12% right now (Or is it 112%, I don't remember)
The SG needs to have a sample of miles traveled to fuel used to make the fuel flow gauge accurate. And like I said before, the fuel cutoff must be adjusted as well. Don't forget to press done, enter cost per gallon and save when you fill up.
Mine is within half a liter on most fill-ups now.

In short it sounds like you're basically teaching the scan gauge to report what your consumption is. The problem I have with this is I was hoping the scan gauge could help tell me if I have a problem. The only way it could do this is to calculate mileage based on parameters posted by the car's computer. The fact that you have to adjust the mileage to reflex actual use indicates that the unit can't pull info from the cars computer to obtain accurate mileage. So if you do have a issue some where in the system you would end up adjusting for the problem and assume all is right with the car. This characteristic limits the SG to a simple trip computer instead of an analytical tool.

I don't think that a simple calibration step negates the tool's usefulness as a diagnostic tool....You shouldn't have to re-adjust it once it's done.

What condition are you attempting to diagnose? If you are seeing a calibration number significantly different from other owners it could help diagnose an issue. You can also read the fuel trim values. I'm not sure what you're looking for...

Found this thread through Google, had to reply even though I own a Speed6. :rolleyes:

ScanGuage is reading the MPG/mileage directly from the car's computer, so you're not teaching it anything. However, ScanGuage needs to know how much gas you are FILLING your car with each time so it can create accurate trip and other avg calculations.

Since abm temp and pressures can change the way the pumps read "full" you will most likely have a variance from what ScanGuage knows to be the amount you should have filled up. This is what you are correcting.

For example: If you used 13.3 gallons of fuel and filled up on a hot day the pump may read 12.9 gallons since the gas is warm and has expanded. The gas in your tank has also expanded leaving less room for fuel before the pump hits the preset pressure to know "full". You need to tell ScanGuage of the variance so it can correctly make its long term avg/trip calculations and know the exact amount of gas added to the car.

If you read the manual one of the most important steps they tell you is to go to a pump of your choice and fill up. Then drive the car for a few days and fill up at the SAME pump around the same time (if possible). This keeps the pump variance to a minimum and allows ScanGuage to get a good accurate first read.

ScanGuage is accurate, but I've noticed some gas stations are alarmingly off vs. others. For the most part I only have 1-2% of variance between fillups and my deviation is around 10-12% typically. Depending on the temp/location you may experience something different, but the variance between fillups should only be a few percent off.

Hope that helps. You're not teaching it anything, just helping it calculate a normal deviation which it has no way of knowing. Hope you enjoy!

I've gotten around 600 hp readings. I disabled if shortly after. HP numbers are worthless.

maybe MM's turbo upgrade is more effective than previously thought :lol2:

I've gone out and seen my ScanGauge turned on when the car has not been touched for several days or a couple of weeks. Anyone else had this problem? It seems to turn on if it sits for quite a while.

Yes I have had the same problem on ocassion. Not sure what causes it.

Thanks, this dose answer my question. Much appreciated.

LOL.....yeah mine showed me 365HP the other day in 1 degree weather.

Funny you mention that. Mine was on too the other day when I got in my car.

what does the scangauge use the engine type setting for? i set mine for two cylinders :lol:

How do you get to the HP reading? Or does that have to be programed? Sorry, too lazy to search.

couple pages back in this very thread.. you know you can do it ;)

Damn, your gonna make me work! Damn You CnnmnSchnpps!!!!!

Tried making an Xgauge for the O2 sensor today. I get values for bank 1 sensor 2, but I'm not sure how to interpret them. The Xgauge PDF says the values will be 0 to 99, and so far I have seen values anywhere from 20 to 80. I was hoping this would be a lambda reading but I guess not (I doubt my engine would run at 3:1 AFR).

Anyone have success with this gauge and knows what it means? Better yet, anyone with a WBO2 and a scangauge want to try and correlate the values?

Set up the STFT/LTFT readings today. Haven't driven it yet but at idle my LTFT was at 17 (I assume 17%???) DAYUMN!!

^ +1

+1 for the DAYUMN or +1 for also having 17% LTFTs?

haha +1 for correlating the values! (didn't you see my edit comment?)

Lol I unconsciously filter that.. people almost never use it.

There are actually two sensors that I am really interested in getting data on right now, MAF and WBO2.. The problem is that both of these are non-linear so the best we can ever get with the scangauge is an approximation (since the math function of the Xgauge only does multiplication, division, addition, substraction). Damn..

02 sensor readings....
 

i am just going to put in my first couple of xgauges today... but i am just as interested as everyone else about the oxygen sensor readings...

apparently the display reads a value 0-99. i have not looked at it closely, but based on the attached PDF that was posted earlier.... shouldnt we be able to adjust the MTH(math) to scale what is displayed into a meaningful number???

i think it would maybe be important to have someone log AFR's(Cobb AP/EMU/O2 sensor) while also reading the scangauge display; to plot a set of data

if someone could catch me up on any specifics of what values are actually being transmitted across CAN... i can prolly hook up with Kane and compare scangauge readings to known AFR's......

yep... I have ltft and stft xgauges enabled now.

the one I'm really really interested in is the cat temp sensor from the odb2. I had that with dan's canscan + pda software, and it was really nice to have. I liken it to an egt gauge.

trims are both bank 1 correct? i thought i saw someone say they had outrageous numbers like 20??? i just don have time to catch up anymore :(

you still have your cat??? holy shit... i didnt know that.

i wasnt aware that cat temp was on the CAN... but i suppose it makes sense since mazda wants to monitor it and keep us pig rich to not burn it up......

would be nice if we had someone on the inside who could supply us with addresses(right term?) for some of the data on the CAN.......

thats why the accessport is so nice. I select the maps that are adjusted for the proper trims, so the car doesn't have to find out how much fuel to add/remove since it's closely matched to what the car wants.

I don't have the cat, but I have all the oem sensors in place.

I made a video back in 2006 of the Palm OS running the CanScan - If you look at 0:35 sec into the footage, you'll see I can select cat temp and it graphs the numbers on the palm:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...arch&plindex=0

Both of those only read from Bank 2 correct?

I was playing with the O2 sensor data today, and I also was getting strange readings in the area of 11-76. Curious if Bank 1 - Sensor 2 is the correct input for O2, and how to interpret the reading.

AH... i remember someone talking about the vid now although i cant view it from a .mil computer here..... i'll check it later at home

well... OEM sensors - cat = EGT??? lol

would be super if anyone who understands the dirty secrets of the CANscan could help us out with how to poll the CAN for the rest of this data.....

i have a headache right now, but it seems i was thinking a few days ago that there should be a lot more possibly interesting things on the CAN

I used the CANxx short term fuel trim bank 1 and long term fuel trim bank 1. I didn't connect the AP to verify the numbers are the same, but they looked about right to me.

Short Term Fuel Trim Bank1 07E00106 044105060000 2808 00C80100FF9C SF1

Long Term Fuel Trim Bank1 07E00107 044105070000 2808 00C80100FF9C LF1

Ok thanks.

I must have entered something incorrectly earlier.

I have the gauge setup and I've had it for a little while now. Unfortunately we can't use the MTH function to scale the 0-99 reading to a usable value since the output of the WBO2 sensor is non linear, so there's no way to scale it properly with addition, multiplication and division alone ;)

I have seen values anywhere from 20 to 80, and sometimes it will actually sit at 50 like a good little stoich mixture.. But yeah I have no clue how to actually interpret the reading..

Wow that's a nice interface, and a pretty good refresh rate.. Sometimes I wish the scangauge was a little quicker. If we could find out how to get the cat temp that would be sweet too! Save me from getting an EGT gauge...

Drivers left knee.


S

ah, i didnt even think about the non-linear thing... well... it would still be nice to have an idea what 0-99 values equate to in AFR or lambda....

on a positive note... the HP gauge is whack like mysql said... yesterday at full load at 7000rpm i saw 291HP !!:dunno: lol

also LT/STFT work it seems... STFT isfloating around -2/-3 LTFT around 6/7... only got a couple miles to look at it though

So what are most of you using for your guage settings. In other words, you have 4 things to show, what are you watching?? And why?

right now, I have ltft and stft on the left, and on the right i have coolant temp and intake temp.

i have LTFT, STFT, Water Temp, and O2 sensor

watching the fuel trims to try and become familiar with how they change in correlation to driving style/conditions

watching water temps for obvious reasons, and because i disconnected that damn low coolant light switch

watching the O2 sensor trying to make heads or tails of it... this is what i see so far

decelration/injector cut-off conditions - values all the way down to 0 consistently
hard acceleration - values ranging from 50-upper 80's
cruising - values typically around 75-85

MYSQL - i wonder if someone* who is familiar with the PCM/CAN would be able to assist us with the reference points to poll the CAN for that Cat temp sensor???

***Hymee? i dont know of anyone else off the top o' the head

hey be careful about that coolant, I hope you're checking the level frequently - if the level gets too low the temp sensor won't be accurate (doesnt' it have to be submerged to work...?)

OK, I "Get" watching the fuel trims to get an early heads up on engine issues and maybe adjust driving habits for better fuel consumption. But what advantage, in every day driving (not racing), does watching the O2 sensor have? Sorry if that sounds stupid.

-Gator

i check my coolant frequently anyway, so i didnt care.... besides the low coolant lamp was nearly constantly on for me. and after paying attention here for a while decided that it wasnt worth the trouble to replace the whole resevoir when it will just die again eventually.

if we can learn to make heads/tails out of the data the O2 sensor returns, we can correlate that to AFR's at least approximately... mostly just curiosity

**********************************
MYSQL...
also, i'm going to japan for a couple weeks, when i get back i am going to look seriously into the Cat temp sensor as well as some other things..... someone here was kind enough to enlighten me on what direction to proceed with retreiving other various data that is on the CAN :)

My 4 are generally intake air temp, water temp, MPG, and engine load. I was hoping the codes to do AT fluid temperature would come out, but I don't think it will. At least not until after I have a gauge installed :)

My HP readings are actually not too far off. They explained to me in an email that the scangauge shows you gross HP, not brake HP. Gross HP is the figure before you subtract driving accesories, etc. He said that ghp is typically 25 percent higher than brake horsepower (bhp is the rating the manufacturer gives). So if you take 75 percent of your 291 hp reading, you actually get a reasonable number.

That said, I have heard of some people seeing really unrealistic HP numbers. But mine have always been in the realm of possibility.

I've got Water Temp, Vlt, MPG, LOD

i cant promise anything.... but per my previous post, if you want this, it's one i will work for when i return from japan.

i do not even know if that data is floating around in our CAN, but if it is, i may find it. Of course, you or other will have to test my findings, as i dont know anyone with an AT.

i'm pretty sure that HP rating is just a guesstimate from the fuel rate (ganged) & rpm's.

i'm surprised I actually felt the need to say that, it should be obivous since the scangauge only considers so many parameters (that the can bus makes available).

2 cents

I'm running coolant temp, Average fuel consumption, RPM and instantaneous mileage.
When I'm low on fuel I'll run distance till empty.

Why run RPM when you have the tachometer?

By the way, I found out through SGII that my tacho is off about 150 RPM. Can anyone else confirm that?

Yes the tach is off, especially at the top end (9000 RPM will show up as 9500). I thought everyone knew this by now ;-)

If you want to set up a cruise speed just below the RPMs where the secondary injectors turn on it helps to have an accurate indication.
My Tach reads 150 to 200 RPM high @ 3600 RPM.

Don't secondary injectors turn on only under WOT or a good amount of throttle?