^Did you try it?

yes, cat temp works awesome.

the numbers are a bit different:

is actually:

1st param: 07e0013c
2nd param:0441053c0000
3rd param: 2810
4th param: 0001000affd8

cause there's 4 screens not 3.

cat temp is listed at 850-950 F range when I drove around this morning.

Yeah these work awesome! Thanks guys. How the hell do you figure this crap out anyway? lol

Hmmmmm............I check this tomorrow with my new PLX devices gauge and see what it says because I think it reads it straight up. I still have my Scangauge II but am either going to sell it or pop it in my daughters car. Think I can get at least one O2 reading as well.

Ooops youre right.Glad you figured it out.

Not the best quality but here is how I mounted mine.
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...14b3133464.jpg

Looks pretty neat. I might have to jump on this.

Easier to use than teh SAFC for the FC's! :(

I have it mounted there because I don't need to see the lower part of the tach anyway. It does not touch the cluster and is easily removable via the really good hobby shop velcro. I have a lot of experience with the Apexi products and yes they are a pain.

K this is my first time buying one. I got mine used. What do I use to mount it? :eyetwitch

Well...............when new it comes with Velcro strips. Not saying that is the best to use, but it does work.

It came with velcro but I went to Hobby Lobby and bought some professional grade velcro and fit snug as a bug in a rug. I have removed it many times to check CEL's at meets and such and it works great. I just think up on the dash is too inviting.

Normal people (non car enthusiasts) think its stock. When I had the color blue everyone thought it was a boost controller, haha.

The way I have it mounted blocks the lower part of the tach but I watch the Scanguage most of the time anyway unless I'm at the track.

I bought a scangaugeII off a member on here in the FS section. But I placed my order for the cord from the company in AZ and got that yesterday. It came with 2 small snabs of velcro. So I was just making shure thats what I use lol kinda getto but oh well. If it works it works :)

if you intend to move/remove it on any kind of regular basis, i would reccomend at least better velcro. i used what came with it and its sturdy, but if you try to move it to plug into a friends car or something, the glue pulls right off the velcro

^............Yep, your right about that. Unless you actually get something to hold the bottom down like a flathead or something...while you slowly pull the velcro apart. I wanted to be able to move it to either one of my daughters cars to check them out, so I kinda learned how to peel it loose without it coming off the dash. But now that I have the gauge pod and PLX DM-100 installed, I don't have to worry about it....... although I do retain the Scangauge II for the purposes above.

Anyone has compare the Water Temp reading from ScanGauge with other water temp gauge (defi)?

Since the stock water temp sensor is at/near water pump, but those add-on water temp gauge with sensor fixed on radiator hose.

will the readings different?

Hey guys, can you post your average voltage readings. I have been having alternator issues and they are saying my alternator is fine and I have a new battery but my readings are now in the mid to upper 13's and I used to get from lower 14's to mid 14's at cruising speeds at 3k+ rpms. Also if you could list your Voltage at idle that would be great too.

Bump.

Well 9K, my volts are around 14-14.2 driving, and around 13.8-14 just at idle.

Thanks man. I just need some data before I fork over the cash for a brand new alternator. I have had my stocker rebuilt twice and I am just not that confident about it.

No problem. The only thing I got is the red top, and relocated the battery to the trunk.

I need to relocate my battery. What relocation kit did you use?

To bad you didn't have a franks like we do in PA, they have lifetime warrenty on just about anything they have and the prices are super cheap, so no matter how many times it would go bad you can get it replaced and no matter how long you have it. Sometimes they might not have a part though.

I did the relocation kit myself to the trunk using 2 ga wire, 2 100 amp fuses, 1 60 amp fuse, and a battery tie down box sealed. I got pictures of the whole process, but didn't put them on, but I got pictures of the engine compartment without the battery in it in my album. Might make a diy thread if that's a good idea.

That would be a great idea. I'll check your pics.

DIY would be great on where you ran the cables and how you secured the box.

Don't mean to jack the thread. The DIY battery relocation is done finally, let me know what you think.

What did you guys input as the Tank Size? Did u round up to 16gal since it says in the rx8 manual that the tank is 15.9 or did you round down to 15gal like the scanguage manual says? Any differences?

Trying to bring this thread back to life....

Anyone have an idea if oil pressure data is accessible through the obd port? I'm assuming it probably isn't because it doesn't appear that the access port does it either. It would be nice if the SG2 could display the oil pressure info.

it won't do it.

series 1 has no sensor so it can't do it (though maybe just maybe you could see the pressure switch - but probably not)

series 2 has a sensor, so it is at least remotely possible.

Just bought one yesterday. It doesn't like my OBD port though. It keeps cutting out/turning itself off and restarting. If you put pressure on it by pulling it towards you are pushing it away (not pushing it in more) it stays on. Works fine on my MPV though.

Any thoughts on how to fix my OBD?

some new xgauge codes.

Air fuel ratio.
TXD:686AF10134
RXF:04410534
RXD:2808
MTH:05B900800000
NAM:A/F

---------------------------------------------

FUEL LEVEL %
TXD:07DF012F
RXF:0441052F
RXD:2808
MTH:006400FF0000
NAM:FLV

That air fuel ratio code does not work....at least on my 09 R3 it doesn't. Didnt try the fuel level %

I'll check it and let you know.

couple of threads to look at:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-making-better-obd-ii-connection-ap-dongle-169724/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-obd-ii-relocation-169305/

Thank you laythor. I had seen the one on moving the port but not adding the "bubbles". I'll think about it. Maybe there's a way to pinch the female port so that the fit is tighter without mucking stuff up.

Sorry i made a mistake.The right code for the air/fuel is:

TXD: O7DF0134
RXF: 044145340000
RXD:2808
MTH:05B900800000
NAM:A/F

georx8,

I tried your last code for a/f and I got nothing. I've got a 07 rx8 with lots of xgauge codes working. I even added some zeros on the end, but nada. Can you restate those codes again? Thanks!

Heya D. Having any luck with other codes? Been working to many hrs to mess with it much, but I did finally find a place to mount it that I like

[IMG]http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/c.../ScanGauge.jpg[/IMG].

You talkin' to me?:lol2:

My X gauge codes are these five:

MTG - miles to go so I can make sure I'll make next town for gas

HPR - horsepower which runs about 269 @ 7k on my 6sped auto. Optimistic, but consistant to check tune.

CAT - cat temp which runs about 830 - 950 deg f to check bad tune before cat is destroyed

MAF - mass air flow which runs up to about 175 @ 7k to also tell if tune going off or clogged air filter

AFR - air fuel ratio which runs about 14.8 cruising, 15.0 decelerating, and 13.0 - 13.3 on hard acceleration to tell if tune going off

When, I track car my four parameters up are: MPH, Water Temp, HPR, and MPG.

I've done rough math, and the fast cars on H2R and MSR Cresson seem to be getting 77 mph average while I'm getting about 67mph. So after I get up to speed, I can clear current mph under trip, and watch my mph average to see if any changes to car, tires, or weather from different track days help my speed.

I'd make current mph average an X gauge, but I'll need to clear it occasionally if I get slowed down by waving a car by.

Where does it get the cat temp from? I know there are O2 sensors, but I didn't know there was any sort of cat temp sensor? If there is, I wonder if I can use this code as sort of an EGT gauge - my cat is hollow. It started life as a RP supercat, but the supercharger hollowed it out :)

This is a working AFR. Would some one that knows check it out to see if it's correct? I was getting 14.7 cruising and low 13s stomping on it abit.

I happened to go back to the xgauge page and they have expanded the list and added an xgauge coding manual "for all those brainy ppl on here" :)

This was under all CANSF Vehicles.

Alternate A/F Ratio (general)
07DF0144
04414544
2808
05B900800000
A/F Ratio

yes it is actually an egt gauge not a cat temp.It takes signal from the first o2 sensor

Galen Darkmoon,

Thanks for the correct afr code.

You know I've got 07 6sp auto also, and I get the same as you: 14.8 cruising, 15.0 decelerating, and 13.0-13.3 when jumping on the gas.

I look at this as another way to see your tune went off, and you're about to melt your cat, and your wallet!:hahano:

you positive its from the front O2 sensor. everything i've ever seen here says rear O2 sensor

Am I the only one whose Scangauge II reports higher fuel economy than I am seeing when I refuel? The Scangauge II is showing 26mpg for my trip averages and sometimes better; but when I refuel and compare gallons pumped to miles travelled, I'm calculating numbers around 23mpg (22.87 on my most recent fill up). I think part of it is that my Scangauge II shows zero fuel consumption when the PCM goes open loop, when the reality is quite the opposite.

I have a Cobb AccessPort on the way, and I am hopeful that it's calculations will be more accurate, as I would like to have a better sense of what my driving style is doing to my fuel consumption at any given time, so I can make better, more informed decisions as I am commuting back and forth to work and home.

^^ you have to make sure that the ScanGauge is properly calibrated, according to the manual.
Mine was also showing way better fuel economy first but after a few refuelings and adjusting the calibration to match the ScangGauge value to the fuel quantity pumped, it got pretty darn accurate.

Longpath,

There's a setting for throttle position sensor (TPS) that you can fine tune; for instance my TPS runs about 12 or 13, and Linear Logic says to set your gauge about 3 or 4 above so mines on 16, and I haven't thought about it in a year until your question.

Your guage should go to closed loop after you decelerate, and MPG 9999, then, maybe 100mpg for a little bit.

I've calibrated my scangauge by matching the gallons filled to the fuel used,and it would stay accurate through several tankfuls.

I calibrated it several weeks ago with that wonderful 10% winning gas from Central Texas, and last weekend I went to DFW with real gas, and it said I used about 13 gallons instead of 12, so I have the opposite problem.

I know the speed calibration is spot on because I can check miles on interstate as I drive, so I just get a calculator and divide the gas pumped into the actual miles driven for double check.

I just set this up on my Scanguage. I'm hoping it's a Cat temp. Can we tell for sure if it's EGT or Cat temp by the temps it produces?

I just took a quick drive and it was between 600 and 900.

Okay, I checked out the 3 AFR codes listed here:

Alternate A/F Ratio (general)
07DF0144
04414544
2808
05B900800000
A/F Ratio

TXD: O7DF0134
RXF: 044145340000
RXD:2808
MTH:05B900800000
NAM:A/F

Air fuel ratio.
TXD:686AF10134
RXF:04410534
RXD:2808
MTH:05B900800000
NAM:A/F

The last one does not work. The first two both work and give very similar numbers, usually off by 0.1 or 0.2 and then settles to the same number. Which of these is correct?

The Long Term Fuel trim as given by MYSQL does not give me any values, only the SF1 does. Anyone chime in on that?

The CAT temp one works.