spark plugs
05-31-2007 | 06:03 PM
#7
That should do.
the plugs are easy as hell to replace. Just take some time. and if you have some sort of glasses put it on(eye protection), cuz it sucks to have all those dirt fall on your eyes.
the plugs are easy as hell to replace. Just take some time. and if you have some sort of glasses put it on(eye protection), cuz it sucks to have all those dirt fall on your eyes.
06-01-2007 | 11:19 AM
#8
Read to succeed please...
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 248
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From: QC, NC
06-01-2007 | 01:01 PM
#9
yeah, don't over torque these bad boys. I've heard stories of lead plugs being pushed in / tightened too far and the apex seal coming around and tearing the top of the plug off! 
Anti-seize is definitely your friend.
Anti-seize is definitely your friend.
06-01-2007 | 02:08 PM
#11
Its as easy as changing a light bulb, its just that you have to jack ur car up for easier access, a little dirty, and some time.
I did mine for maybe 30 minutes. cuz bastards at the dealership didnt use any anti-seize when they did the engine no start tsb, I was afraid that I might break the thread and fuxk everything up. lucky it turns out to be ok.
got new plugs and RB wires. no issues. will replace the plugs again maybe after 20K miles. wires maybe another 40 K
06-02-2007 | 04:16 PM
#18
I have been running Magnecore wires. No complaints here. 
The 10 MM ones have the same wire inside with a thicker covering. A bit overkill since our exhaust manifold is on the opposite side of the engine.
An old school trick to tell if your current wires are bad is to lightly mist around the current wires when the engine is running. If you see a lightning show then the current wires should be replaced because the jacket on the wires has cracks.
The 10 MM ones have the same wire inside with a thicker covering. A bit overkill since our exhaust manifold is on the opposite side of the engine.
An old school trick to tell if your current wires are bad is to lightly mist around the current wires when the engine is running. If you see a lightning show then the current wires should be replaced because the jacket on the wires has cracks.
06-05-2007 | 09:25 AM
#20
Read to succeed please...
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: QC, NC
I found this in the DIY: spark plug removal thread. Seems to be on point, so...
Just received my new plugs from sparkplugs.com and noticed the part # for the leading plug was different than what is called out in the workshop manual. It also has notches in the end that I hadn't noticed in any pictures before.
RE7A-L vs. RE7C-L
The following explains the difference (copied from sparkplugs.com)
NGK: Racing plug
14mm thread, 21mm reach, 20.6mm(13/16") hex, 62mm height, Trailing plug, solid terminal, notched shell aids cleaning, fine wire, (.08mm) iridium center electrode, fine wire platinum ground electrode .048" gap (1.2mm)
Original equipment, fine wire plug designed to give you optimum spark from your existing ignition system. Slightly recessed fine wire iridium center electrode requires less voltage to ionize(jump) the plug gap. This allows a stronger spark which will better ignite the air fuel mixture leading to more power. The iridium center and platinum ground electrodes for extreme durability. Fine wire platinum ground electrode to reduce quenching. This plug is improved over the RE7AL as the shell has been notched to reduce fouling and improve cold starting.
NGK Racing plug 6700 RE7CL $19.95
I'll be putting these in tomorrow morning. My car is a December, 2003 build date with 30K miles and has had several different flashes.
RE7A-L vs. RE7C-L
The following explains the difference (copied from sparkplugs.com)
NGK: Racing plug
14mm thread, 21mm reach, 20.6mm(13/16") hex, 62mm height, Trailing plug, solid terminal, notched shell aids cleaning, fine wire, (.08mm) iridium center electrode, fine wire platinum ground electrode .048" gap (1.2mm)
Original equipment, fine wire plug designed to give you optimum spark from your existing ignition system. Slightly recessed fine wire iridium center electrode requires less voltage to ionize(jump) the plug gap. This allows a stronger spark which will better ignite the air fuel mixture leading to more power. The iridium center and platinum ground electrodes for extreme durability. Fine wire platinum ground electrode to reduce quenching. This plug is improved over the RE7AL as the shell has been notched to reduce fouling and improve cold starting.
NGK Racing plug 6700 RE7CL $19.95
I'll be putting these in tomorrow morning. My car is a December, 2003 build date with 30K miles and has had several different flashes.
06-05-2007 | 04:37 PM
#21
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