kw1k

Basicly , ill be picking one of them up , im heading w/ the K&N SR for 1 reason , When cars like ours have high redlines the tubing w/ the SR is alot shorter so its going to take less time to get in the engine , which is going to make it breath better at higher RPM's those makin better Top end , which is wat our cars lack,


CAI - This is going to give better mid / low end obviously but once it hits the higher rpms i dont think its going to breath aswell, but i could be wrong. I think the CAI w/ would be better for everyday driving also only b/c your not going to loose power w/ it like the SR in the heat.


The revi IMO does not make as much power and w/ the ram air duct design i dont like the way it is. Id rather stick to either a CAI , SR

Basicly its either High end w/ the new K&N SR , or low mid end i guess w. the CAI..

Now 1 more question? anyone kno where I could order the new K&N intake from ? for the best price and also the same w/ the AEM CAI?

greycell

As far as choosing which intake to go with, it comes down to what you want. You can also do a search and find all kinds of threads on this subject.
The only place I know of to buy the new K&N is at mazdatrix.com. but I think it is a pre order.

Razz1

Your wrong the Ram duct creates more air and it's cooler at high speed,

staticlag

I'm so excited, mine should be here on Monday!!! I've been refusing to drive my car since I ordered it!

modena

Make sure you are home. (If shipped by RB)
Or the UPS man will leave!
I left a signed note on my door stating that he/she could leave it on the porch.
He did

http://modena.no-ip.com/

kw1k

Not saying it wont, Im saying that When Your RPMS are high like that Its all in the design of your intakes piping, Obviously your car is going to be sucking alot of air in those ranges, so a SR w/ its shorter piping is going to get more air in the engine then the Ram air duct Im thinking the SR is going to make the most power

Fanman

Empirical evidence has shown your assumptions are wrong. In dynos done by posters here on the board, the SR Motorsports air intake didn't do much if anything (1-2 hp). Also, distance is distance. From the front of your car, is the front of your car. Not sure what you are talking about distance. Whether the air travels through the ram air duct in front of the car (which will be cooler) or the side of the car (regular air path goes from the fenderwell through the VFAD into the air intake, which is even longer) into the SR air intake it still takes distance. Unless you cut a hole in your front fender in front of your air intake the distance it travels will actually be longer than if you have the ram air duct into the RB REVi or what ever else you use. Take off the front bumper. Air does not come in from the front of the car normally. It across the front from inside the bumper on the other side.

zoom44

im sorry but what CAI?

DARKMAZ8

Cold air Intake....ie AEM

kw1k

Great post , iv got to look into this some more i guess!

zoom44

is he talking about AEM? because Cold Air Intake means any intake that takes air from outside the Engine Bay. The stock box is a CAI. The Revi Is a CAI the AEM is a CAI. The AEM should be a nice intake but i would hate to have to removethe bumper to clean the filter. other than that i like it.

kw1k

Ok, well Iv bin searching for the dyno results AND i cant find much...

Fanman

Look back about 2 years. When the SR Intake first came out. Pioneers with this board have seen the post. It was done a long time ago.

kw1k

had anyone done a dyno on their AEM CAI yet?

Ole Spiff

The critical factor in intakes is air temp, velocity and turbulence. Distance has nothing to do with it other than what effect it might have on velocity and turbulence. Cold air is denser than hot air so you get a better "explosion" when it ignites in the engine; that's why you want cold air. Velocity is the speed with which the intake system can feed air into the engine. Distance doesn't matter; once the air is flowing, what matters is the flow rate. It's like a garden hose; once the water is flowing it doesn't matter if it's 25 feet long or 100 feet long, the same amount of water is going to come out. Water pressure is what's important in determining flow rate. Same thing is true with air; air pressure in the intake determines how much air the intake system can feed into the engine when it's demanding air.

I talked with the guys at RB when I was down there picking up my CAI and he said they put a sensor in the intake system when testing their intake and they got POSITIVE air pressure at speeds above 65mph. That means when the engine needs the most air the quickest, there is more pressure in the intake with their system than the engine actually needs. So when the port opens up for air, the positive pressure can ram air into the port since the port is a low-pressure area needing air. If the air pressure was the same, the engine has to pull air from the intake; if the pressure in the intake is lower, then the engine has a problem getting the air it needs and performance will suffer.

The CAI makes sure there is plenty of cool air getting into the intake system. The bell-shaped intake inside the RB REVi (which is called a velocity stack...note the term "velocity") is to help speed up air flow and 'shape' it to reduce turbulence; turbulence in an intake slows down airflow, it's like a mob riot instead of a smooth, orderly line. Length is not a factor here; it's "how much air can get in, how fast, and how orderly is the flow". I've not used any other system but from what I know about the process, I was impressed with what RB did with theirs and I purchased their system...could not be happier with it.

kw1k

well right now, im just interested in seeing some Dyno #s for the AEM CAI

rotarygod

Dyno numbers don't tell you anything useful when it comes to intakes. The car isn't moving. They'll show you how much more power you make when you aren't moving but they can't test any gains you get from when you are moving. If you have a system that is in fact a true ram air system, it's gains will only be visible when moving. Don't rely on dyno numbers to make decisions. Dyno's are tuning tools. They are not the be all end all deciding factor on real world results and in many cases don't show real world results. Even your car behaves differently on a dyno than it does in the real world. It dynos low. The car makes near rated power.