Remuron

Hello,
i have ported secondary ports on 4 port engine. Now since compression is happering while port is still open airflow reversal over secondary ports is happening. This causes ssv to make shuttering noise.
Its just cosmetical issue that would be solved if the ssv would be held tighter closed.
Anybody some conversion or fix to this?
Spring wouldnt solve this because ssv woudn t open ever.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

It's pretty common on any Renesis engine. The shaft play on the ssv is too much hence the rattle. Not a big issue but if it drives you nuts you could buy the updated ssv. Pretty sure you can get them on ebay.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Other than it only gets that way because of a badly sealed engine needing a rebuild pulsing back through the intake

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

All Renesis engines pulse into the secondary port cavity ... there is no getting away from that.

Edit : not aux port cavity

reddozen

iTrader: (1)

my bridge makes it worse

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Well if it had auxillary ports; the APV barrels should be closed it were a 6 port B, but since it’s a 4 port and assuming you meant SSV ; the pulsing is more severe with the bad engine and typically the two go hand in hand. A good sign for that is it puking oil out the pvc system worst case or the SSV covered in carbon crud being blown back up into it in less extreme cases. There’s no point replacing a wobbled out SSV imo until you rebuild the engine.

of course the simple way to find out is a compression test. Being AT especially an older 4 port my bet is it’s at or below the min acceptable value on at least one rotor.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Otherwise the accepted way to repair it is to replace the SSV assembly. The rattling in every instance I saw was the staked shaft end wallowing out the hole in the actuator arm, not that it was overriding the actuator itself. If it’s not too bad yet it might be possible to restake it out into the wallowed hole, but fair warning that these are very sensitive and tightly machined. If you don’t support it properly as close to the shaft end as possible when using enough force to stake the end it is extremely easy to bend and ruin the SSV beyond repair. The alignment might be off a bit too if it’s wallowed out and not positioned exactly proper when restaked. A replacement would be better imo.

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Remuron

Does this "updated" SSV have some part number? Thanks.
Its true it rattles more because large secondary ports but the freeplay of ssv is also very big.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Pretty sure this is the upgradepart as it has a bigger actuator than the original : https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAZDA-GENUI...IAAOSwgSJdSlV9

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

No, same size, just black. It needs a longer bolt to install.

Again, every SSV that I ever saw that rattled is because the staked shaft becomes loose and wallows out the hole in the actuator arm. It’s the shaft rattling back and forth in the hole through the actuator arm that’s creating the clanking rattle.

I never saw one override the actuator.

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Remuron

Hmm maybe you are right.
Whe i push the arm of ssv to the cabine. It stops.
I mean i dont force it open/close but instead i push it sideways. It stops when pushed this way.
As i can see it the whole ssv inside the intake is moving. So not the vacum valve is bad its the ssv itself.

I have more SSVs lieing arround i will put one apart will see if its fixable somehow

Forcing it the way the arrow shows

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Once again, the actuator arm is a press fit on shaft for the SSV and then they stake the shaft with a punch to both tighten the fit and also prevent the arm from coming off. If the arm becomes loose on the shaft then the pulse fluctuation forces start working the shaft back & forth in the actuator arm. Eventually the hole in the arm wallows out and the clanking noise is the shaft flopping back & forth against the arm in the loose mounting hole.

The entire thing needs to be replaced. You can try to repair it, but you better put some thought into it and be careful because it’s a precision fit part that’s also easy to bend or misalign. the arm and shaft are dissimilar metals, which means welding is a no go. I don’t think anything is going to bond it and last very long.

That pretty much leaves trying to restake it to the point the shaft presses out enough to be a tight fit in the arm. Accomplishing that without bending or misaligning it is the only option, but not something I’d recommend. Swapping it out with a good used or new one is the way to go. Good luck.


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