Tax Return = Low 14's?
02-17-2007, 07:25 AM
#51
Charles car sounds good--he knows what he is talking about when it comes to the 1320--listen to him. Are you speaking of staying with the s2/boxsters etc on the strip or at the redlight? If it is the redlight i dont condone that--playing with your car is one thing, running side by side on the street is another--dont do it. go to the track. 17's with low height tires and light weight make a HUGE differance in the 60 ft times. Other than that listen to Charles.
olddragger
olddragger
03-22-2007, 12:25 PM
#52
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to improve you 1/4 mile time...
as some said "go with 17in rims" lightweight preferrably, with a low profile tire....
doing so increases torque somewhat as the 18's are quite heavy and along with a taller wheel and tire setup increases rotational mass thus needing further power to move... or go with the base model automatic 16's... pair either of these up with a sticky tire and you will hookup..
then after that you can go with horsepower mods such as the RB intake and ram duct, and a full exhaust(minus headers cause such does not exist in the U.S) and then free up horsepower with pulleys and a lightflywheel(this maybe counterintuitve with the flywheel since most drag racers feel stock is best to keep the inertia).
then go with some kinds of ECU reflash.... or even go with a custom tune if such an ECU ever showed up....
with this you should be able to significantly better your times...
but as with anycar try and learn to launch the car first before anything. the above mentioned will be over $1k to spend but should be done over a period of time
as some said "go with 17in rims" lightweight preferrably, with a low profile tire....
doing so increases torque somewhat as the 18's are quite heavy and along with a taller wheel and tire setup increases rotational mass thus needing further power to move... or go with the base model automatic 16's... pair either of these up with a sticky tire and you will hookup..
then after that you can go with horsepower mods such as the RB intake and ram duct, and a full exhaust(minus headers cause such does not exist in the U.S) and then free up horsepower with pulleys and a lightflywheel(this maybe counterintuitve with the flywheel since most drag racers feel stock is best to keep the inertia).
then go with some kinds of ECU reflash.... or even go with a custom tune if such an ECU ever showed up....
with this you should be able to significantly better your times...
but as with anycar try and learn to launch the car first before anything. the above mentioned will be over $1k to spend but should be done over a period of time
03-22-2007, 07:12 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Cap, you are incorrect regarding drag racers, at least the serious ones. We all use light flys if they are available for our engine. As a matter of fact, not only drag racers but road racers, as well. Additionally, we will, (where available) also use smaller diameter, multiple plate, clutch/flywheel systems too, as they provide a better polar moment of inertia. Imagine swapping out the factory RX-8 clutch/flywheel for a system that is 1/2 the diameter and twice the torque-holding capacity. I have written previously on the light flywheel-human interaction and the shortest way I can explain it is that flywheel weights are a human concern and not a physical one.
Headers DO exist but they have almost nil effect for far higher cost than they should be.
Headers DO exist but they have almost nil effect for far higher cost than they should be.
oh ok i see,
what companies offer headers here in the states? my friend just picked up an 07 and already got intake, pullies, unresonated catback, and sticky tires and wants to complete the exhaust with headers
03-23-2007, 09:54 AM
#56
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First, sounds like your car is used. Get a proper tune up (filters, oil, etc) as well as fluid change in the tranny and diff. Get your car running in top spec first.
Tires. I'm sure whatever you've got on your Protege rims was bought on a budget and not as good as the RE040's that came on the car (although still a tire that can be seriously improved upon). You can spend 500-1000 to buy a good set of tires.
Aren't you going to sell those chromes too? There's some more $.
Lastly, if a straight line is your goal there's no replacement for the power and cost effectiveness of nitrous.
Tires. I'm sure whatever you've got on your Protege rims was bought on a budget and not as good as the RE040's that came on the car (although still a tire that can be seriously improved upon). You can spend 500-1000 to buy a good set of tires.
Aren't you going to sell those chromes too? There's some more $.
Lastly, if a straight line is your goal there's no replacement for the power and cost effectiveness of nitrous.
03-23-2007, 03:35 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by cptpain
... or go with the base model automatic 16's... pair either of these up with a sticky tire and you will hookup..
03-24-2007, 09:45 AM
#59
Leisy
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So is it impossible to hit 200 rwhp with these mods: RB Exhaust, RB Revi intake with ram air, Unorthodox racing pulleys, RB catless midpipe, RB race flash, RB flywheel, RB 6-puck race clutch.
03-24-2007, 11:26 AM
#61
Originally Posted by SoloMazda8
So is it impossible to hit 200 rwhp with these mods: RB Exhaust, RB Revi intake with ram air, Unorthodox racing pulleys, RB catless midpipe, RB race flash, RB flywheel, RB 6-puck race clutch.
More important will be the difference from your current hp to your new hp . Bet on around 20hp gain.
Agree with Charles re the clutch - keep it stock .
03-24-2007, 01:05 PM
#62
Leisy
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Ok, so keep the clutch stock and you think I should get a different set of pulleys? The AP only comes with 1 and I thought the Unorthodox racing has 3 so would that not be better?
03-24-2007, 04:15 PM
#63
well - I got about 23 hp gain with pretty much the same mods so I don't think he'll get 35 .
I would take that bet but you will have to come to NZ to collect it & it will be paid out in beers
BTW. did you realise that the flywheel does not show up as a hp increase on the dyno ?
I would take that bet but you will have to come to NZ to collect it & it will be paid out in beers
BTW. did you realise that the flywheel does not show up as a hp increase on the dyno ?
Last edited by Brettus; 03-24-2007 at 04:33 PM.
03-26-2007, 12:43 AM
#65
Leisy
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With all the mods I mentioned you really think 30hp gain. I like the way you think Charles R. I'm betting on getting the Hymee Scanalizer to go with all this, that way I can clear the CEL from the midpipe right? We should meet up in Indianapolis and Ill have you install it for me.
03-26-2007, 03:01 PM
#66
Leisy
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Yeah man that would be great, I', going to start buying all that stuff not this Friday but next, so It will take me a little while to get all the stuff together, so give me like in the summer at the latest to get it all together and I will for sure go to indy to get all the work done. Should I get the RB race flash first or last I cant decide.
03-28-2007, 11:52 AM
#68
Leisy
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So you are really wanting to drive down and do this? I thought you were just kidding. If your serious let me know cause I will need someone to do it. Im very dumb when it comes to this kind of stuff. I would want someone that knows what they are doing so you would be perfect.
04-07-2007, 11:29 AM
#70
XYELLR8
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Hey Charles, can you go into more details about the O2 Sensor simulator?? Does it work well? Do you have it in your car?
I just got back from checking out the website and im a little bit weary, because it didnt look too professional.
I just got back from checking out the website and im a little bit weary, because it didnt look too professional.
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