turbo maintenance
#1
turbo maintenance
im pretty close to deciding whether to go turbo or supercharger on my 6port 6speed auto. If I go turbo I will have the greddy kit (for the most part, some things will be interchanged)
couple of questions though
1. By looking at most greedy kit setups, It doesnt seem as if id be hard to changed sparks plugs... but what about the coils?? Is it a big hassle to disconnect some hoses (or do u even have to)??
2. Decarb.. If I decide to use the foam to decarb my engine, will it affect the turbo? I dont believe it will damage anything... but will it?
3. OIL. from what I understand synthetic oil is best for a turbo.As of right now N/A I am using 10w40 royal purple. I DONT PRE-MIX.. But I've been thinking about going back to 20w50 castrol NON-synthetic. I only have about 2000 miles on my engine. So basically my question is would it be alright for 20w50 mineral oil to be lubricating the turbo?? or should I just stick with 10w40 royal purple?
couple of questions though
1. By looking at most greedy kit setups, It doesnt seem as if id be hard to changed sparks plugs... but what about the coils?? Is it a big hassle to disconnect some hoses (or do u even have to)??
2. Decarb.. If I decide to use the foam to decarb my engine, will it affect the turbo? I dont believe it will damage anything... but will it?
3. OIL. from what I understand synthetic oil is best for a turbo.As of right now N/A I am using 10w40 royal purple. I DONT PRE-MIX.. But I've been thinking about going back to 20w50 castrol NON-synthetic. I only have about 2000 miles on my engine. So basically my question is would it be alright for 20w50 mineral oil to be lubricating the turbo?? or should I just stick with 10w40 royal purple?
#2
the main thing is to not drive the car hard before you shut it down. If you do, the turbo will be really hot, and you will cook the oil in the turbo. synthetic will not cook as easily as mineral, which is one reason why it's recommended.
best bet is to go synthetic, and don't run the car hard for ~5 mins before you shut it off. some people opt for a turbo timer instead, but that isn't useful if you park in an enclosed space, like a garage.
best bet is to go synthetic, and don't run the car hard for ~5 mins before you shut it off. some people opt for a turbo timer instead, but that isn't useful if you park in an enclosed space, like a garage.
#3
the main thing is to not drive the car hard before you shut it down. If you do, the turbo will be really hot, and you will cook the oil in the turbo. synthetic will not cook as easily as mineral, which is one reason why it's recommended.
best bet is to go synthetic, and don't run the car hard for ~5 mins before you shut it off. some people opt for a turbo timer instead, but that isn't useful if you park in an enclosed space, like a garage.
best bet is to go synthetic, and don't run the car hard for ~5 mins before you shut it off. some people opt for a turbo timer instead, but that isn't useful if you park in an enclosed space, like a garage.
#5
1. No problem to change coils
2.I never decarb but I,m sure it would not be a problem to just put the solution in AFTER the turbo .
3.I use 5w40 synthetic - synthetic is better for turbo use . Would not recommend 20w50 for our cars N/A or turbo but that argument is for another thread.
2.I never decarb but I,m sure it would not be a problem to just put the solution in AFTER the turbo .
3.I use 5w40 synthetic - synthetic is better for turbo use . Would not recommend 20w50 for our cars N/A or turbo but that argument is for another thread.
#9
#11
I don't see why? Anything you'd need to watch out for has been mentioned.
1.the main thing is to not drive the car hard before you shut it down.
2.I use 5w40 synthetic - synthetic is better for turbo use . Would not recommend 20w50 for our cars.
3.Engine rebuild intervals increase as well, if you boost you are going to blow your engine faster so have an extra 5k sitting around unless you want ot try and rebuild the engine yourself.
As for oil change intervals I'd stick with 3000 miles, I've never done the recommended 7k, I think that's silly.
There's really nothing that special to watch out for unless you are running 20 pounds of boost and a monster setup. Most Greddy kits are pushing 5-8 psi so its not a big deal.
1.the main thing is to not drive the car hard before you shut it down.
2.I use 5w40 synthetic - synthetic is better for turbo use . Would not recommend 20w50 for our cars.
3.Engine rebuild intervals increase as well, if you boost you are going to blow your engine faster so have an extra 5k sitting around unless you want ot try and rebuild the engine yourself.
As for oil change intervals I'd stick with 3000 miles, I've never done the recommended 7k, I think that's silly.
There's really nothing that special to watch out for unless you are running 20 pounds of boost and a monster setup. Most Greddy kits are pushing 5-8 psi so its not a big deal.
#13
unfortunately de-carbing doesn't get allot of the carbon out from the apex and side seal grooves. The carbon that builds up in there needs to be removed with a pick or a soft brush, it gets really caked on in there. You could soak it for hours and your still need a good amount of force to get it cleaned up.
Kinda sucks thats not a turbo thing though that's a rotary thing. so yes running richer will increase the amount of carbon building up in there. You might be able to keep it at bay and extend the life doing a seafoam treatment ever 3k but I can't guarantee that wont effect the engine in a negative way.
Kinda sucks thats not a turbo thing though that's a rotary thing. so yes running richer will increase the amount of carbon building up in there. You might be able to keep it at bay and extend the life doing a seafoam treatment ever 3k but I can't guarantee that wont effect the engine in a negative way.
#14
I'm assuming you've upgraded coils and wires? That will help with the combustion.
As for plugs, you could just check them more regularly to make sure they aren't fouled, give them a good clean and re-install.
As for plugs, you could just check them more regularly to make sure they aren't fouled, give them a good clean and re-install.
#16
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